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Kitchen Confections in Moda's Vintage Modern: Pleated Apron

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It's Week Two of our Kitchen Confections Series for Moda Fabrics! If you're a regular Sew4Home visitor, you know we love aprons. So of course there was no question we'd whip up a fab apron in Bonnie & Camille's Vintage Modern collection. We combined coordinating Bella Solids by Moda, matching rick rack, form-flattering waist pleats, and a quilted accent along the top of the bodice. Even the pockets have box pleat details, and by tilting them at an angle, they give the skirt a pretty pop of color.

Make sure you check out all the tutorials in this series. Each is so stylishly delicious, you won't be able to make just one! Thanks to the great mix-and-match options within this lovely new collection by Bonnie & Camille, everything is beautifully coordinated. Their collection has six colors ways (Sky, Pebble, Cream, Candy Apple, Melon and Pear) with 40 quilting weight prints and 10 flannels, plus Fat Quarters, Fat Eighths, Layer Cakes, Charm Packs and Jelly Rolls. Wow! 

To round out this perfect package o' projects, we've also created a matching set of recipe cards and gift tags. You'll be able to download them this week absolutely FREE, courtesy of Moda. And, at the end of the week, Moda will sponsor a generous Great Giveaway with fabric cuts and more. Thanks-times-ten to our wonderful Moda friends. 

Vintage Modern is hitting the shelves now at your favorite in-store and online retailers. Check out our S4H Marketplace for our favorite shopping options. 

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies


Specific Yardage Notes

¼ yard or one Fat Quarter of fabric 1: Floral Vintage Cream/55040-17

½ yard of fabric 2: Floral Wish Sky/55044-11

⅝ yard of fabric 3: Bella Solids Aqua/9900 34

1 yard of fabric 4: Bella Solids Porcelain/9900 182

Getting Started

  1. Click on the links below to download and print the THREE patterns: Apron Bib 1, Apron Bib 2 and Apron Pocket:
    Apron Bib Part 1
    Apron Bib Part 2
    Apron Pocket
    IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.

    NOTE: The bib patterns are drawn as a traditional commercial pattern to be cut on the fold to create each fabric piece. This is one option and will work just fine. An alternate method, which we think is a little easier for beginners is to print TWO copies of each of the patterns and cut them out along the solid lines. Flip over one copy in each set of two and butt them together along the center FOLD line. You now have a FULL pattern piece and so don't have to cut on the fold. The arrows drawn on the bib pattern pieces show you how/where these two bib sections come together. 

  2. Cut out each pattern along the solid line and choose your option above for cutting on the fold or cutting flat.

Fabric 1 - Floral Vintage Cream:
Using the completed Apron Bib 2 pattern, cut ONE lower bib. Transfer the pattern markings for the darts to the fabric.
Using the Pocket pattern, cut TWO pockets. Transfer the pattern markings for the box pleats to the fabric.

Fabric 2 - Floral Wish Sky:
Cut ONE 18" high x 37" wide rectangle.

Fabric 3 - Bella Solids Aqua:
Cut ONE 18" high x 37" wide rectangle.
Using the completed Apron Bib 1 pattern, cut TWO upper bibs. Transfer the pattern markings for the quilt lines to the fabric on ONE of the two bibs.

Fabric 4 - Bella Solids Porcelain:
Cut FOUR 2½" x 25" strips
Cut SIX 2½" x 31" strips
Using the completed Apron Bib 2 pattern, cut ONE lower bib. Transfer the pattern markings for the darts to the fabric.
Using the Pocket pattern, cut TWO pockets. Transfer the pattern markings for the box pleats to the fabric.

Using the completed Apron Bib 1 pattern, cut ONE upper bib.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Prepare the upper bib

  1. Find the upper bib (Bella Solids Aqua in our sample) on which you marked the quilting lines and the upper bib in the flannel. Set aside the remaining upper bib fabric; it will be used as the lining.
  2. Place the marked upper bib and the flannel together, aligning all the raw edges and making sure the marked guide lines are facing up.
  3. If possible, attach a Walking Foot to your machine. We used the built-in AcuFeed foot on our Janome machine. Thread the top and bobbin with machine quilting thread.
  4. Quilt, following the guide lines.
  5. Cut a length of rick rack to match the bottom edge of the bib.
  6. Position the rick rack along the bottom edge so the center of the rick rack is exactly ½" from the bottom raw edge. In other words, it will be centered on what will be our seam line when we stitch the upper bib to the lower bib.
  7. Set the partially completed upper bib aside.

Prepare the lower bib

  1. Find the lower bib in the main fabric (Floral Vintage Cream in our sample) and the lower bib in the solid fabric (Bella Solids Porcelain in our sample).
  2. Following the marked lines from the pattern, mark and sew the two darts along the bottom of each piece.
  3. Press the darts toward the bib center.
  4. If you are new to making darts, see our easy, step-by-step tutorial.

Assemble the bib

  1. Place the quilted upper bib right sides together with the lower exterior bib (Floral Vintage Cream in our sample), aligning the bottom edge of the upper bib with the upper edge of the lower bib. The rick rack will be sandwiched in between the layers. Pin in place
  2. Stitch the two pieces together, using a ½" seam allowance. If you sew with the upper bib facing up, you can simply follow along the line of stitching for the rick rack.
  3. Press the seam allowance towards the upper bib. You should have a pretty half line of rick rack revealed below the seam line.
  4. Find the upper bib lining (Bella Solids Aqua in our sample) and the lower bib lining (Bella Solids Porcelain-with the two darts sewn in place).
  5. Place the two bib sections right sides together as above. Pin in place.
  6. Stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance. Press the seam open.

Make and attach the neck ties and finish the bib

  1. Find the four 2½" x 25" strips. These will be the neck ties.
  2. Place two strips right sides together. Pin in place.
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across one end. Leave the opposite end open for turning. Remember to pivot at the corners.
  4. Trim the corners.
  5. Turn right sides out, and press.
    NOTE: Even though these aren't super tiny, check out our tutorial for an easy way to turn tubes right side out.
  6. Place the exterior apron bib right side up on your work surface. Pin the raw open end of each tie to the upper edge of the apron bib, placing the ties ½" in from each side edge.
  7. Layer the front bib and lining bib right sides together, sandwiching the ties in between the layers. Pin along both sides and across the top; leave the bottom open for turning.
  8. Stitch the front to the back, using a ½" seam allowance. Remember to pivot at the corners.
  9. Trim the corners at an angle.
  10. Turn right side out, push out the top corners and pull up the ties.
  11. Press well.

Create the box pleated pockets

  1. Find the two exterior pocket pieces and the two lining pocket pieces. 
  2. Following the guide lines you made on each, create a box pleat on all four fabric pieces. Press well.

    NOTE: If you are new to creating box pleats, take a look at our tutorial: How to Make A Box Pleat Or Inverted Box Pleat.
  3. Measure around the perimeter of the exterior pleated pocket pieces. Add 1" for an overlap. Cut two lengths of rick rack to this measurement.
  4. Place one length of rick rack around each exterior pocket (Floral Vintage Cream in our sample), starting and stopping at the pleat, and centering the rick rack on the ½" seam line (in other words, the center of the rick rack should be ½" from the raw edge of the pocket). Pin in place. Stitch in place, using a ½" seam allowance.
  5. Match a pocket lining to each pocket exterior, following all the steps above, including those for the box pleats. 
  6. Place each exterior and lining set right sides together. Pin in place, leaving a 2" opening along one end for turning.
  7. Sew with the exterior facing up so you can see the rick rack seam line. Stitch the two layers together, using a ½" seam allowance, which means you can simply follow along in the rick rack seam line. Remember to leave the 2" opening for turning. Lock your seam on either side of the opening. 
  8. Trim the seam allowance back to ¼", carefully trimming the fabric only and not the rick rack. Leaving the rick rack untrimmed makes is stronger; you don't want it pull through the seam. That seam is a stress point because hands press against it reaching into the pocket.
  9. Turn each pocket right sides out and press. 


  1. Cut one final length of rick rack. This one should be the width of the skirt panel or  37".
  2. Pin the rick rack to the bottom edge of the 18" x 37" exterior skirt panel (Floral Wish Sky in our sample). Center the rick rack on the ½" seam line (in other words, the center of the rick rack should be ½" from the bottom raw edge of the skirt panel). Pin in place. Fold over the starting end of the rick rack so it sits ½" in from the edge of the fabric. 
    NOTE: You fold the rick rack over rather than under because the trim is designed to drop down to become the bottom edge of the apron. When this happens your "fold over" changes position and the raw edge will be secured and facing to the back.  
  3. Stitch the rick rack in place, using a ½" seam allowance. 
  4. When you come to the opposite end of the apron skirt, the rick rack may have shifted slightly. If necessary, unpin the end of the rick rack and fold over the end so folded end is ½" from this opposite raw edge. Trim the rick rack if needed. 
  5. Position the pockets on the apron skirt. The pockets are 4½" from the upper edge. They are designed to be set at a diagonal, so there is 10" between the upper corners and 8" between the lower corners. Pin the pockets in place along the sides and bottom.
  6. Edgestitch the pockets in place, making sure you have thread to match the pocket in the top; the bobbin can be matching or can match the skirt. Stitch along the sides and across the bottom, going slowly around the curved bottom corners to keep the seam line smooth. Leave the upper edge of the pocket open. 
  7. Find the 18" x 37" skirt lining (Bella Solids Aqua in our sample)
  8. Place the skirt lining and skirt exterior right sides together, sandwiching the pockets and the rick rack in between the layers. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom. 
  9. Sew the apron skirt to the lining with a ½" seam along the sides and across the bottom. Remember to pivot at the corners. Sew with the exterior fabric facing up so you can carefully follow the previous rick rack seam line as your guide along the bottom edge. 
  10. Trim the corners and turn the skirt right sides out. Press. 
  11. Create a group of three, ¾" knife pleats, which means you are "pinching" 1½" of fabric) to each side of the center along the upper edge of the apron skirt. The pleats are spaced 1" apart and each set starts 3" from the center front. Pin in place. Press each set to the outer edge of the skirt and stitch down each pleat 3" from the top raw edge.

    NOTE: If you are new to creating pleats, take a look at our tutorial: How to Make Knife Pleats.

Waistband and waist ties

  1. Find the six 2½" x 31" strips.
  2. Separate the strips into two sets of three. Take one set of three, and using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the strips end to end, right sides together, along the 2½" ends. Repeat with the other pair. This will give you two strips that are 2½" x 91".
  3. Match these two 91" strips right sides together, lining up all raw edges and the center seams. This will become your waistband/ties.
  4. Using your see-through ruler and fabric pencil, measure and mark the openings needed in the waistband to insert the apron bib and the apron skirt. Measure and mark carefully to insure the openings are centered. You need a 10½" opening along the top of the waistband and a 30" opening along the bottom of the waist band.
  5. Stitch the two waistband/tie pieces together, using a ½" seam allowance. Start at the bottom opening, stitch down one side, pivot at the corner, stitch across the end, pivot at the corner, and stitch along the remaining long side to the top opening. Remember to lock your seam at either side of the opening.
  6. Remove from machine. Move to the other end of the top opening. Start stitching again, down one side, pivot at the corner, stitch across the end, pivot at the corner, and stitch along the remaining long side to the bottom opening. Remember to lock your seam at either side of the opening.
  7. Trim your corners and turn right side out through the middle opening. Press. You might need to reach in to the corner points with a blunt-edged tool, like a large knitting needle, to help push out the seam and make a nice point at all corners.
  8. Make sure you press the opening seam allowances in ½" so these edges (top and bottom) are flush with the sewn edges. 
  9. Edgestitch along your finished seams, pivoting at all corners, but still leaving the top and bottom openings free and clear.

Attach skirt and bib to waistband

  1. Find the completed skirt.
  2. Insert the skirt into the bottom opening (the 30" opening) of the waistband. Pin in place.
  3. Find the completed bib.
  4. Insert the bib into the top opening (the 10½" opening) of the waistband. The bib should drop down into the opening about ½" - ¾". You need just enough to get a good "bite" into the bib as you stitch across, but not so far in that you cover up too much of the darts. Pin in place.
  5. Edgestitch along both openings, catching all the layers and securing the bib and skirt in place. Be careful that your new edgestitching matches the existing edgestitching on the waistband/ties piece.
  6. Press well.

Project Design: Alicia Thommas  
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler



Comments (89)

Holly Flick said:
Holly Flick's picture

Love the pattern, but I've got a question: Why didn't the dart- and box pleat- dashed lines not print?  I've added the Dashed lines for the Darts.  What is/are the measurements for the box pleats in the pockets, please?

Also, do you object if my sewing group makes this pattern for our craft fair?  We are a non-profit group.

Thank you for all your help!  Holly

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Holly - The pattern pieces, with all their markings, are delivering correctly from our server, which means the issue is on your end. So sorry. Could you possibly have an ink issue? Can you tell your printer to print in "grayscale" or "black and white" to insure you are getting everything? The pleats lines should be 1/2" to the left and right of center, and then 1/2" to the left and right of each of those first lines -- two sets of two lines. You can make small quantities of our copyrighted projects for sale if you make the items yourself. We simply ask that on the tag and/ or somewhere within the display or packaging and/or within the sales description online, credit is given for the item being created from a copyrighted design/pattern/tutorial from

Holly Flick said:
Holly Flick's picture

Thank you for getting back to me.  When printing in "Black and White" I finally got tiny little marks along the sutting lines that I lined up with a straight edge and created the fold lines.  All the work in my Craft group is hand made and we will be happy to clearly label items made from your patterns.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Holly - Glad to hear everything worked out!!

Beccaty36 said:
Beccaty36 's picture

Thank you so much for the pattern. Used it to make my sister her Christmas present. She absolutely loves it. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ Beccaty36 - That is great! We're thrilled that you loved our pattern and your sister loved the apron. Good news all around. 

Terry Lane said:
Terry Lane's picture

I just printed pattern to actual size and it is 73/4 inches the line that is and not 8inches on the paper.  Do i need to be worried and enlarge pieces or do you think it is ok? 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Terry - 1/4" seems like a lot for the line to be off. This is an older project, but we did just double check all three pages and the line (measure point to point with the arrows) is indeed 8". All three pages should print landscape not portrait - perhaps that was a problem. 

DjKander said:
DjKander's picture

the lady i am making this for is very tiny (size 2). Is it going to be huge on her? I was thinking maybe I should even just cut the skirt part a little less wide? Thoughts?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

DjKander - This is an older, but VERY popular, pattern and the only comments we've ever gotten on sizing is that it's not as flattering for big busted wearers. The dress form it's shown on above is a smallone  so I think in general it would be fine for your friend. That said, it would certainly be easy to narrow the skirt panel - just make sure you size down the waistband/ties to match. It really does finish as a lovely apron. Enjoy!

rhondar said:
rhondar's picture

Never mind about how to make the neck ties, LOL!  For some reason my printed version left those directions out. (???)  As I scrolled up to the top of the page I saw the instructions.  Note to self: reread the page before commenting - duh!


Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Rhonda - Glad to know everything is A-OK! Let us know how the final apron turns out. If you follow us in social media, we'd love to see a picture. We're sew4home on Facebook and Twitter and sew4home_diy on Instagram.

Rhonda R said:
Rhonda R's picture

I am making this lovely apron now.  Page 7 says "Make and attach neck ties" with no directions so I am winging it.  I am assuming I am to sew two 2 1/2 x 25 pieces together to make a 2" wide tie.  Is there a reason for not cutting a 4 1/2" wide strip and folding in half?

I also took out the darts, they hit me wrong, and being wider at the waist works for me.  

Thank you, it is so cute!  Should finish this morning.

Sydney Wiggins said:
Sydney Wiggins's picture

I'm completely new to patterns. What does the arrows on the bibs mean? And what do the directions mean when it says COMPLETED apron bib 1 and 2 pattern? How do I complete them? 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Sydney - As it mentions in the the getting started section, you do need to assemble two pieces (1 and 2) for the apron bib pattern. The arrows show you which sides to butt together. Follow the directions above to assemble. Then, when assembled, that is your "completed" pattern. 

Alisonriss said:
Alisonriss's picture

Do the patterns come ready to sew? Or do I have to add some extra inches to sew in the sewing machine? I mean, do I have to add an edge? Thanks a lot!!!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Alisonriss - You can see in the ingredients photo above that our pattern pieces do include a seam allowance. It's the dotted line shown in the photo. 

Art Teacher Annie said:
Art Teacher Annie's picture

I'm going to make an attempt at this over the next few days but the person I am making it for is a little larger than what I think this pattern will work for.  Is there an easy way to enlarge all of the measurements to ensure it all fits together in the end?  I love the design but am afraid this is going to turn out too small.  Thank you! :)

esme1576 said:
esme1576's picture

When I enlarge things I generally use my printer to do it and rpint it '110% or such and then jsut do the same with the extra bits. Multiply everyhting by 1.1... or 1.2 ( 120%) that should do it

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ esme1576 - Thanks so much for adding your technique! We don't always mention this option because different printers have different options and results. We've had some folks be disappointed when enlarged patterns no longer fit on on a single sheet of paper and/or all the pieces don't quite fit together quite right. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Art Teacher Annie - I'm so sorry, but we don't do re-sizing on our more complex patters - it's really like making a whole new pattern. But, we totally understand your concern. What we usually suggest (and what we do ourselves when creating our patterns), is to make a rough prototype out of muslin or similar. It's a bit more time consuming, but it allows you to tell which pieces need to be enlarged. The skirt is pretty generous, it might be fine, and you'd just need to enlarge the elements for the bib and the opening in the waistband. I wish we could give more detail, but there just aren't enough hours in the day, and we would feel awful if we gave you inaccurate advice that caused your finished project to turn out less than successful.

kerid_away said:
kerid_away's picture


One clarification, please. Step 7 under skirt instructions states that the 18" x 37" lining used was the porcelain fabric. However, in the getting started section, it was the solid aqua fabric that was to be cut to the 18" x 37" rectangle. Is there a typo or is it just me missing something? Which did you use for your skirt lining? Thanks!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ kerid_away - The lining panel is aqua. Sorry for any confusion, and thanks for alerting us so we could update. 

kerid_away said:
kerid_away's picture

Thanks for your prompt resoponse! I'm looking to get started asap!

Annie Rego said:
Annie Rego's picture

I just have to say that this is by far the best set of instructions I've come across in all my "free" pattern searches. I knit, crochet, quilt and sew and I am amazed how clear and exact every step of the instructions are laid out. The pictures are a perfect compliment to these instructions. 

Thank you for taking the time to make this project so very enjoyable for all of us. 

I am making a total of four aprons, one for each of my daughters and of course one for me. 

Thanks again,

Annie from San Diego. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Annie - Thank you so much! This apron is from awhile ago, but is one of my personal favorites. We do work very, very hard on our instructions so it's great to hear you found them so complete. We'd love to see a picture of your finished aprons. If you are on Facebook (sew4home) or Instagram (sew4home_diy) please post a pic!

Expat Sarah said:
Expat Sarah's picture

Hi there

I love this apron and can't wait to make one, but at risk of sounding completely blonde!!, but where is the pattern print out for the skirt, neck and waist ties?  I have printed the bib pattern but can't find the skirt etc

Many thanks

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@Expat Sarah - There are no blonde questions  - and hopefully on our end, no blonde answers! Only the bib and the pocket require patterns. The other elements are simple rectangular cuts and are listed in the Getting Started section. If you've printed the two bib pattern pieces to assemble and the pocket pattern, and you have a ruler - you are good to go. Have fun and let us know how it turns out. 

Tammy Springer said:
Tammy Springer's picture

I just finished making the bib, and it looks wonderful! However, I am completely perplexed about making the box pleats for the pockets, as I've never done them before. The tutorial says there should be three markings for a single pleat, like the pocket has, with two fold lines and a placement line. When I look at the pattern for the pocket, it shows four lines with dashes. Would you please clarify this step for me?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ Tammy - Sorry to hear you're confused. Because of the small size of the pocket and the fact that there is just the one pleat, the guide lines on the pattern are the basic inner lines - we didn't add the outer line. In the case of this pocket, you want your pleated folds to meet at the center. The two pairs of dashed to either side of the center give you the folding guides. For each pair, pinch the fabric and fold so the peak of the fold is along the outermost dashed line of the pair. Then, bring this fold in toward the cent, folding in along the innermost dashed line of the pair. Try practicing with the paper pattern piece first. Hope that helps.

Cate said:
Cate's picture


What distance is the outside fold and the inside fold for the knife pleats in the top of the skirt?  I can see that they are 1 inch apart, but are they each 1 inch deep?  Thanks

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ Cate - those steps were a little light on info if you've not done a lot of pleating. We've updated the info above:

Create a group of three, ¾" knife pleats, which means you are "pinching" 1½" of fabric) to each side of the center along the upper edge of the apron skirt. The pleats are spaced 1" apart and each set starts 3" from the center front. Pin in place. Press each set to the outer edge of the skirt and stitch down each pleat 3" from the top raw edge.

Susan ForeHandLoop said:
Susan ForeHandLoop's picture

Absolutely adorable! I'm just about finished making it for a friend. It would have been helpful to have had some information about size. I added 3 inches to the bottom bib piece and 3 inches to the lenght for mine. It seemed awful small. Also I left out the darts. When I started making the bib it just looked to "Betty Boop" to me. Each to their own. 

Thanks again. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ Susan - Glad you were able to adjust to the fit you like. It is a super cute apron, one of our favorites.

KatieLady said:
KatieLady's picture

I'm loving how this is turning out so far and I'm close to finishing. Maybe I just missed this, but on the last step how far in should I insert the bib and skirt into the waistband to sew it all together? Is it 1/2 inch for both?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ KatieLady - it's not an exact amount. Here is what we added to the instructions above to help clarify:

Insert the bib into the top opening (the 10½" opening) of the waistband. The bib should drop down into the opening about ½" - ¾". You need just enough to get a good "bite" into the bib as you stitch across, but not so far in that you cover up too much of the darts. Pin in place.

katgame said:
katgame's picture

Started this project today with my own random fabrics and will be done after a few more hours of fine tuning tomorrow. I have only been sewing for a couple years on and off, so it took me awhile to fully grasp the directions, but once I did it was on! I absolutely love how this is turning out and I will definitely be using this pattern as a template for homemade gifts for my culinary inclined girlfriends. I will post a pic when I finish so you can see the versatility in this pattern. Instead of rick rack, I used some lace I had lying around. This is also a great pattern to mix and match different fabrics, textures, etc. Thank you thank you for posting these directions and the wonderful patterns :)

Jaimee Barrett said:
Jaimee Barrett's picture

Im almost finished making this apron for my daughters birthday. Just the waistband/ties to add. I'll definately be making another one for myself. Not only is the apron looking gorgeous, but Im really enjoying making it. Its the first time Ive sewn with ric-rac and it looks great! Your instructions are easy to follow and I think this is the most 'professional looking' item Ive ever sewn! Thanks so much  :)

elisabeth n. said:
elisabeth n.'s picture

i am trying to print the pattern i downloaded the apron bid 1 and 2 and the pocket but how do i find it in window media center????? help

alicia.thommas said:
alicia.thommas's picture

@eliszbeth n: Downloaded files should go into a Downloads folder. If you have your computer set up differently, it's troubleshooting beyond our help. You can try clicking the Start button, then typing the file name into the Search box. The file you are looking for should appear in the list of search results. You could also try downloading another file and watching carefully where the file is being saved. Then you'll know where your downloads are.

jzsunshine61 said:
jzsunshine61's picture

This is my next project!  Thanks so much for all the great gift idea's on this site.  :-)

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ HotCommodityHome - Always glad to hear about apron love! Thanks for sharing with a link back.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ Susan Moffett - Construction time... unless we are sure it is a super, duper easy project... isn't something we normally guess at. Going by what it took us to make it is tough because we're stopping to snap pictures and write notes. In addition, your skill level and familiarity with specific techniques makes a huge difference in how long something takes. An experienced seamstress could whip out this apron in an afternoon; for someone just beginning it could take a number of sessions over a few days.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:

@ Shelley - no, we have not make this one reversible. The top bib would be pretty easy to make reversible. You'd have to do a little noodlin' to figure out the skirt... but I bet you could do it. Check out some of the aprons (you can see them all via the Project Index) that are reversible for hints.