As a child, I was fascinated by Mary Poppins’ carpet bag (still am, actually). It was filled with such magical delights, and I was positive if I had a similar bag, all my wishes would be fulfilled. Done and done!

Although many carpet bags are structured almost like a giant handbag, the key features are a deep, reach-in-and-find-it-all center section and dramatic, upholstery weight fabric. Our Shoulder Style Carpet Bag is a modern take that keeps the eye-popping fabric while scaling back to a more manageable size. We also opted for an easy-carry sling style and added a clever button wrap top closure.

With our upholstery weight Jacquard fabric, we once again turned to the Janome HD9QC Professional. This heavy duty, straight stitch model has the speed, precision, and power to handle the thickness. In addition, its specialized high-speed Even Feed foot adds to the control when working with multiple layers.

Fabric choices are, of course, always up to you, but for a carpet bag, you really need a seriously gorgeous fabric with bold color and design. We used a Turkish upholstery fabric, and its geometric motif is generously woven through with metallic gold and copper. This sets off the rivets we used at the pocket tops and to hold the strap as well as the metal shank buttons that create the top closure. When shopping, you also want something that has some softness; when empty, the bag should be pliable enough to fold.

The HD9 is part of Janome’s Straight Stitch Revolution series – three heavy duty models that are your straightest path to better sewing. All the construction steps for this bag are done with a standard straight stitch. We did lengthen the stitch for topstitching and edgestitching, but that was the only adjustment needed.

This is a very beginner friendly project, even if you are brand new on your bag making journey. There are extra steps to show you how we aligned all the layers; and even through we continue to brag about handling the thickness, we also show how to flatten seams and eliminate bulk through the construction for the best finish.

To store all your own “magical delights,” the exterior pockets of our carpet bag wrap from front to back across the 5” box bottom base. The lining is a standard, solid color quilting cotton with its own handy pocket in the exterior fabric.

Our thanks to Janome for allowing us to continue to put the HD9QC Professional through its paces. Visit your local Janome America dealer for your own test drive. For more information before you go, visit their website and follow them on social media.

You’ll also want to ask your local dealer about the Heavy Duty Accessory Packages debuting this Fall to go with the HD Straight Stitch Models. There’s one for Quilting, one for Leather, and one for Fashion.

If you like this HD9-focused project, you’ll also want to check out our Workhorse Utility Apron we created on the same machine.

Our Shoulder Style Carpet Bag finishes at approximately 14” high x 12” wide with 5” box corners and a 2½” wide strap that forms a 35” loop.

Sewing Tools You Need

Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
Even Feed/Walking foot; standard on the HD9 in a high speed version – very helpful for any project with thick layers

Fabric and Other Supplies

1 yard of 54″+ wide mid-weight upholstery or similar décor weight fabric for the exterior of the bag itself and its exterior and interior pockets; we used a 54” wide upholstery weight Jacquard fabric purchased online – a dramatic color and motif combination is important to get the true “carpet bag look”
NOTE: We fussy cut our fabric to center the most dramatic design as well as to align the pocket’s design to the body of the bag. We were able to do this with just one yard, but if you choose a fabric with a particularly large/complex motif, you should consider buying a quarter to a half yard of additional fabric.
1 yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight solid color cotton for the lining of the bag and the lining of the pockets; we used 44” wide Moda Bella Cotton in Biscuit
2 yards of satin rattail or similar for the top button wrap closure; we used a metallic gold satin rattail
NOTE: We used three strands of the thin satin rattail, which we braided to make our wrap closure – you could also use a thin leather thong, cording or even a narrow shoelace – if not doing a braid, you can get away with just ½ yard of your tie material
TWO 1” shank style buttons for the top button wrap closure; we used embossed metal shank buttons
TWELVE double cap rivets + the appropriately-sized cutting and setting tools; we used a copper finish
NOTE: We used Dritz Double Cap Rivets, which have a 8mm cap and a 6mm shaft, for the pocket rivets and Tandy Leather Medium Double Cap Rivets, which have a 9mm cap and a 8.5mm shaft, for the strap rivets. If you are new to working with rivets, we recommend starting with the longer rivets for the smoothest result overall.
All-purpose thread to match fabrics
See-through ruler
Measuring tape
Fabric pen or pencil
Iron and ironing board
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Straight pins
Sewing clips; you might find these easier to work with for thick layers
Hand sewing needle
Hammer to set rivets
Heavy metal, stone or wooden block to use as a cutting and hammering surface – you need a very hard surface; we like to use a small granite block

Getting Started

From the exterior fabric, fussy cut the following:
ONE 15½” wide x 35” high rectangle for the main body of the bag
ONE 15½” wide x 20” high rectangle for the exterior wraparound pocket panel
ONE 9” wide x 7½” high rectangle for the lining pocket
ONE 6” x 36” strip for the shoulder strap
From the lining fabric, cut the following:
ONE 15½” wide x 32” high rectangle for the main body of the bag
ONE 15½” wide x 14” high rectangle for the wraparound pocket panel
ONE 9” wide x 4½” high rectangle for the lining pocket

NOTE: If you are new to fussy cutting, check out our general fussy cutting tutorial as well as our tutorial on matching a pocket to a background panel.
The tie for the button wrap closure should finish at apx. 16” in length. We started with three 20” strands of thin satin rattail, braiding them to finish at apx. 16” – you can follow these same steps or simply cut your own tie at 16”.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Prepare the exterior wraparound pocket

Find the 15½” x 20” exterior pocket panel and its 15½” x 14” lining panel.
Fold the lining panel in half so it is now 15½” x 7” and press to set a visible crease line. Open up the panel. We opted to also draw along the crease with a fabric marking pen on the right side of the panel to further emphasize this center line.
Place the two panels right sides together and pin along both the top and bottom 15½” ends. This means there will be excess exterior fabric at the center; this is correct.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along each 15½” end.
Turn what is now a loop formed by the two panels right side out.
Flatten the loop so the marked line is at the exact center and there is 1½” of exterior fabric rolled back along each end. These “fold backs” will become the top and bottom “hems” of the wraparound pocket.
Thread the machine with thread to best match the exterior fabric in the top and to best match the lining fabric in the bobbin and topstitch these “hems” in place, staying close to the exterior/lining seam line..
Press well. In addition to the original drawn center line, which indicates what will become of the bottom of the bag, we suggest adding an intersecting line from hem-to-hem; this indicates the pocket panel’s dividing line. As shown in the photo below, we also added stickers to indicate which was the front pocket and which was the back pocket. This is especially important if you’ve done a special fussy cut to match the pocket panel to the background panel and/or if you have a directional motif.

Place the exterior pocket

Find the main 15½” x 35” exterior panel. Fold it in half so it is now 15½” wide x 17½”. Make a small clip at each outer edge of the bottom fold. These marks indicate what will become the bottom of the bag.
Place the exterior panel flat and right side up on your work surface.
Find the pocket panel. Place it right side up on top of the exterior panel, aligning the drawn bottom line of the pocket panel (from the lining side – simply lift up the pocket panel to see that line) with the outer edge clips of the main panel. This centers the pocket panel on the main panel. The raw side edges of the both panels should be flush.
Pin in place through all the layers along both outer edges.
Draw a vertical line through the center of the pocket panel. You can once again slightly lift up the pocket panel to check that your new drawn line matches the original line on the pocket’s lining.
You should also fold the pinned panels in half once again, so the exterior panel is 15½” wide x 17½”, and double check that the tops of the pockets match up front to back.
Unfold. Make sure the machine is still threaded with thread to best match the exterior fabric in the top and to best match the lining fabric in the bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch. We attached the Even Feed foot on our Janome HD9 to insure all the layers moved across the needle plate without shifting.
Stitch along the drawn vertical center line through all the layers, creating double pocket openings.
Lengthen the stitch further and baste along the outer edges of the pocket panel, staying close to the raw edges. This further eliminates any shifting of the pocket during the remainder of the construction.

Add rivets to the pocket tops

Find four of the twelve double cap rivets and the cutting/setting tools.
You should insert a rivet to either side of the pocket’s center dividing line – two along each pocket hem.
You’ll cut the hole through all the layers…
… inserting the rivet from the front to the back and popping on the back cap to seal. The photo below is a close-up of setting one of the back caps in place.
As mentioned above, we always recommend using a very hard surface to hammer and seal rivets; we like to use a small block of granite. Also as mentioned, if you are brand new to using rivets, you may find using a rivet with a longer shaft is easier to control. We have a full tutorial on inserting metal rivets you can review prior to starting.
Set aside the completed exterior panel.

Prepare and place the lining pocket

Find the 9” x 7½” exterior pocket piece and its 9” x 4½” lining.
Place the two pieces right sides together aligning the top 9” raw edges. The top and bottom of the exterior do matter at this point. If you have a random motif, simply pick which will be the top of your interior pocket. If you have a directional motif, be sure you’ve positioned the piece correctly and are working with the directional top.
Re-set for a standard straight stitch. Make sure the machine is still threaded with thread to best match the exterior fabric in the top and to best match the lining fabric in the bobbin.
Pin the panels together, then stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance.
Pull the lining down so now the bottom 9” raw edges align. This will cause the upper edge to roll over, which is just what you want it to do. Pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving an approximate 4-5” opening along the bottom for turning.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom. Remember to sharply pivot at each bottom corner and to lock your seam at either side of the bottom opening. When the stitching is complete, clip the bottom corners.
Turn the pocket right side out through the bottom opening. Use a long, blunt tool, like a chopstick, knitting needle or point turner to gently push out the pocket corners so they are as nice and sharp as possible.
Press flat, pressing in the seam allowance along the opening so it is flush with the sewn seam.
Find the 15½” x 32” main lining panel. Fold it in half so it is now 15½” x 16”. Press well to set a visible bottom crease line. You could also unfold and draw a line with your fabric pen over the crease to see it even better.
Unfold the lining panel right side up and flat on your work surface.
Place the pocket right side up on the lining panel. The pocket should be centered side to side with the bottom of the pocket 4½” up from the bottom crease line.
Pin the pocket in place along both side and across the bottom.
Slightly lengthen the stitch and edgestitch the pocket to the lining panel along both sides and across the bottom, sharply pivoting at each bottom corner. With pockets, we also always recommend a strong back stitch at the beginning and end of your seam (at both upper corners) as these are the pocket’s stress points and so can use some extra reinforcement.

Create box corners in the lining

Re-fold the main lining panel in half right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin in place along each side.
Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the lining in both the top and bobbin.
Set for a standard straight stitch.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch both sides from the top raw edges to the bottom folded edge.
Once sewn, measure 2½” up from the bottom fold and draw in a horizontal line at this measurement parallel to the fold. Do this on both sides of the folded panel.
Pull apart one bottom corner so the side seam aligns with the bottom fold and the corner makes a neat “triangle peak.”
Flip over and continue flattening the corner, making sure the fold line stays centered, until the two original drawn lines form the base of your triangle peak. Use a ruler to measure side to side. There should be 5” along the triangle’s base. Draw a line across the corner at this 5” mark.
Stitch across the drawn line. For box corners, we like to suggest stitching across twice or even three times for the best stability.
Once sewn, trim away the excess peak of the triangle, keeping just ¼” of seam allowance beyond your stitch line.
Repeat to create the opposite box corner.
Press open both side seam allowances.
Set aside the finished lining, keeping it wrong side out.
NOTE: If you are brand new to making box corners, we have a full tutorial you can review prior to starting.

Create box corners in the exterior

The box corners of the exterior are done in the same manner as the lining.
Find the lining panel with its wraparound pocket sewn and riveted in place. Fold the panel right sides together. Press to set the bottom crease line, drawing on top of it with a fabric pen to darken the marking if necessary.
Re-thread if necessary with thread to best match the exterior in both the top and bobbin.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch both side seams.
Draw in the 2½” horizontal lines on each side.
Pull apart the corners just as you did above to equal 5”. A good check to confirm your corners are equal and centered is to open out the bottom completely. Everything should lay flat and line up.
Stitch across the 5” drawn line on each corner. As mentioned above, double or triple stitch for security and then trim back to ¼”.
Turn the bag right side out and push out both corners so they are nice and square.

Assemble exterior and lining

With the lining wrong side out and the exterior right side out, slip the lining inside the exterior so the two layers are now wrong sides together. The lining should sit about 1” below the exterior. Make sure the box corners and the side seams of the two layers are flush. The interior pocket should be against what will be the back of the bag. Lightly pin the lining in place.
Fold down and press the top raw edge of the exterior ½” all around.
Then fold and press an additional 1½” all around, bringing this top hem all the way down into the bag so it covers the raw edge of the lining. Pin in place all around.
The machine should still be threaded with thread to best match the exterior in the top and bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch. We are still using the Even Feed foot on our Janome HD9.
Edgestitch close to the inner fold all the way around the top of the bag.
Set aside the bag.

Create and place the strap with its rivets

Find the 6” x 36” strip. Fold it in half right sides together so it is now 3” x 36”.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along the raw edges the length of the strip. Both ends remain unsewn.
Turn right side out through an open end. Press flat.
The machine should still be threaded with thread to best match the exterior in the top and bobbin. The stitch should still be slightly lengthened.
Edgestitch along each long side.
Find the bag. Center a raw end of the strap over each side seam. The raw edge of the strap should sit about 1” down the top edge of the bag. Pin each end in place, making sure there are no twists in the loop of your strap
Stitch across each end of the strap, running this seam in line with the previous stitching that secured the bag’s top hem.
Fold up the strap along the seam into its upright position, keeping the strap centered over each side seam. Mark and cut holes for the four rivets that will secure each end of the strap.
As mentioned, you are going through quite a few layers at this point (the strap plus the top hem of the bag), a long rivet shaft will be your friend – especially if you’re new.
Pin and/or clip the strap into its upright position as you work. You could even use a fabric pen to mark your four positions to insure they are even and accurate side to side.

NOTE: Don’t forget we have a full tutorial on inserting metal rivets you can review prior to starting.

Attach the top buttons and tie to complete

Find your chosen tie material. As mentioned, we braided three 20” strands of thin satin rattail.
If you choose this method, first tie the three strands into a knot and pin that knot to a ironing board or a similar soft, flat surface.
Braid the strands just like you’d braid your hair. Stop about 1-2” from the bottom of the strands and tie another knot. Trim the tails below the knots so they match at each end. Your finished length should be approximately 16”.
Thread the hand sewing needle. We used four strands of thread in a color to match the exterior fabric.
Sew one button at the middle of the front, centering it between the top folded edge and the topstitched seam line of the top hem. It should be sewn loosely with the thread wrapped around the shank multiple times to strengthen it while still maintaining space between the button and the fabric. Repeat to sew the second button in the same position at the middle of the back of the bag.
Find the center of the tie and hand stitch that center point of the tie at the base of the button shank of the BACK button.
You can then bring the ties from the back up over to the front, wrapping each tail of the tie around the front button. We found it best to wrap from the bottom around counter-clockwise with one tail and then the other.