When you’re running out and about, you need a tote that can stand up to the elements. It would be even better if it could do that and still look stylish. Our Bound Edge Shoulder Tote has you – and whatever you need to carry – covered.

The exterior of the tote is tough Ottertex® Waterproof Canvas. The inside is a classic nylon ripstop. And, it’s bound all around with polyester grosgrain ribbon. For carrying damp items and repelling moderate splashes and sloshes, it’s perfect.

A heavy duty snap along the top helps keep the bag’s contents protected. We opted for a single snap rather that a full zipper for a couple of reasons. First, it’s a faster and easier closure solution, and second – when un-snapped, the tote can be filled to the brim, because we all know that sometimes, you need a carryall to carry ALL!

When you branch out from standard woven fabrics to more unique substrates, like the waterproof canvas and ripstop, you need a machine that will feed the layers evenly and stitch with power and precision. These kinds of fabrics are usually more slippery, thicker, and just generally less cooperative than cotton. We chose the Janome Continental M8 Professional. It has a huge workspace and extra bright LED lighting. And, when you attach the included extension table, you open up even more space. When working with large panels, this is invaluable. It also features the Janome Detachable AcuFeed™ Flex Layered Fabric Feeding System, which can perfectly guide your fabric from the top and bottom.

This bag project is quite beginner friendly and could be done on a wide variety of models, but we always like to emphasize what a difference it is to have a machine that can make this project – and others – easier and more fun from start to finish. We call it “frustration free sewing,” and it’s why we’re a Janome exclusive studio.

The waterproof canvas we recommend is very stable, so there was no need for interfacing or other stabilization. The exterior and lining are layered wrong sides together, creating exposed seam allowances. We show you how to use standard grosgrain ribbon to wrap those seam allowances, finishing the raw edges and creating a bold outline to the sides and top of the bag. You’ll see how we used fusible seam tape to help keep the ribbon wrap even. Topstitching in matching thread holds it all together. We also used grosgrain ribbon, in a slightly wider width than the binding ribbon, to form the shoulder straps.

The standard inset base panel is wrapped in the same manner. This keeps the interior of the bag completely smooth and leaves the seam allowance exposed to be wrapped, adding another bold outline around the bottom of the bag. It also makes the tote easier to set down without worrying it will topple over.

When empty, this tote is extremely light, which makes it easy to fold to store when not in use. It would also be an excellent option to bring with you when traveling; stash it in your suitcase to fill up with souvenirs on the way home.

There’s a full pattern set to download below. Although the cuts are quite simple, we wanted to insure everything came together perfectly to make the seam allowance wrapping process as easy as possible. It also allowed us to give the base panel slightly rounded corners, which helps make all the pieces fit smoothly.

Our canvas and ripstop color combination is muted so the bight green binding ribbon really pops. Of course, the final color choices are always up to you, and both of these substrates come in a literal rainbow of hues. Stay strong and subtle or go bright and bold; you could even choose to match your favorite slicker and rain boots for a full weather-ready ensemble.

Our thanks to Janome for sponsoring this project! It helps us continue to bring you amazing tutorials free of charge. To find out more about the Continental M8 as well as other Janome machines, visit their website, follow them on social media, and visit a local dealer for an in-person test stitch.

Our Bound Edge Shoulder Tote finishes at approximately 14” x 10” x 6” with a 13” drop to the double shoulder straps.

Sewing Tools You Need

Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
Even Feed/Walking foot; best for working with thicker layers and trickier substrates – or engage your machine’s built-in feeding system – we used the Janome AcuFeed™ Flex built-in fabric feeding system
Professional Grade Foot HP – this precision foot works in tandem with the Acufeed™ Flex feeding system
Jeans/Denim Needle

Fabric and Other Supplies

½ yard of 60”wide waterproof canvas or similar; we used Ottertex Waterproof Canvas in Army Green
½ yard of 60”wide ripstop nylon or similar; we used Ultralight Ripstop Nylon in Dark Cyan
NOTE: Both of these substrates are traditionally 60” wide, which means you can cut the front panels and the base panel together across the width and need only ½ yard. If your chosen fabric is narrower, plan on getting at least ⅝ to ¾ yard.
2 yards of 1” wide polyester grosgrain ribbon in a fun coordinating color for the sides and base binding; we used bright green
NOTE: We chose polyester grosgrain ribbon because it is weather resistant whereas standard packaged bias binding is not, however, ribbon does not have the bias stretch of packaged binding, which means going around the curved corners of the inset base can be a bit more finicky. You can certainly switch to a standard bias binding, just remember it may get wet when out in the elements.
2 yards of 1” wide polyester grosgrain ribbon in a different coordinating color for the top binding – we recommend a color to blend with your ripstop; we used navy
2 yards of 1½” wide polyester grosgrain ribbon in a color to match the top binding for the straps and snap tabs; we used navy
6 yards of ¼” wide fusible seam tape; such as Warm Company’s Steam-A-Seam or Pellon EZ Steam
All-purpose thread to match ALL fabrics and ribbons
See-through ruler
Fabric pen or pencil
Iron and ironing board
Pressing cloth; substrates like waterproof canvas and ripstop do not like the direct heat of an iron
Scissors
Rotary cutter and mat
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Straight pins
Sewing clips

Getting Started and Pattern Download

Download and print out the six pages needed for the two main patterns: Front/Back panel and Base panel. These six sheets have been bundled into ONE PDF to make the download easier.

IMPORTANT: Each page of the PDF is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. Make sure your printer is set up for “borderless printing” as some of the pages print nearly edge-to-edge. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on the page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale. Print horizontally (landscape).
Cut out all six pattern pieces along the solid lines – four pieces for the Front/Back panel and two pieces for the Base Panel. Butt together the pieces at the arrows as indicated on the pattern pieces. Do not overlap. Tape together to form the complete pattern for the Front/Back panel and the Base Panel.
From the fabric for the exterior (army green Ottertex in our sample); cut the following:
Using the assembled Front/Back pattern, cut TWO

Using the assembled Base pattern, cut ONE
From the fabric for the lining (dark cyan ripstop in our sample), cut the following:
Using the assembled Front/Back pattern, cut TWO
Using the assembled Base pattern, cut ONE
From the 1½” wide ribbon chosen for the straps (1½” navy grosgrain in our sample), cut the following:
TWO 28” lengths for the straps
TWO 5” lengths for the snap tabs
Both colors of the 1” wide ribbon for the top, side, and base binding will be cut within the construction steps.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Marking for proper placement

When you are working with a printed pattern, you are likely to see various marking dots and lines. These are important little indicators to keep track of as you move through the construction process of this project… or any project you tackle. Take the time to transfer these marks from the paper pattern to your fabric, using a fabric pen or pencil. They will be necessary for proper placement of the straps and the snap tabs as well as to insure the base panel fits smoothly into the bottom opening of the bag.
NOTE: As always, whenever you are working on the right side of your fabric, make sure your marking tool is one that will easily wipe away or will vanish with exposure to the air or the heat of an iron.
On the Front/Back panels, transfer the marks for the center top and the top strap placement.
Also on the Front/Back panels, transfer the marks for the center bottom and the bottom corners.
On the Base panels, transfer the four “quadrant point” marks – the center point of each side. Think of it like the 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 points on a clock.

Layering the Front/Back panels and the Base panels

NOTE: You’ll notice in our photos that we used sewing clips rather than pins during construction. This is our traditional choice when working with thicker or trickier substrates, but the choice is always up to you.

Find the two exterior Front/Back panels and the two lining Front/Back panels. Place each exterior panel wrong sides together with a lining panel and pin or clip around all four sides.
Because the ripstop we chose has a tendency to ravel, we made the choice to both baste together the layers and finish the raw edges in one pass. To do this, set up for a zig zag stitch…
… and go around all four sides with a ¼” seam allowance.
The zig zag stitch is optional. If you are not worried about raveling or fraying with your chosen fabrics, you can skip this step. As an example, we layered the exterior and lining base panels wrong sides together and secured them with a standard machine basting stitch – also using a ¼” seam allowance.

Stitching the side seams

Place the basted Front and Back panels lining sides together and pin or clip along each side edge.
Re-set for a standard straight stitch and stitch each side seam using a ¼” seam allowance.

NOTE: You’ll see in the photos that we are using thread to best match the lining in the top and bobbin. Remember, the exposed seam allowances will be bound, but if there is ever any “pull apart” at the inside of the bag, it’s a matching thread that will be seen.

Binding the side seams

Find the 1” ribbon in the contrasting color for binding the sides and base. Cut two lengths to match the length of each side seam.
Press the ribbon lengths in half lengthwise to set a visible center crease line.
Find the ¼” fusible seam tape.
Open up the ribbon so the crease line is visible. Cut a length of fusible seam tape to match the length of the ribbon. When it comes off the roll, the seam tape has one sticky side and one paper side. Place the sticky side of the fusible seam tape on one side of the ribbon. Finger press in place.
Remove the paper covering from the the fusible seam tape, revealing its sticky surface.
Find the bag and place one side seam against the non-taped side of the ribbon, sliding the edge of the seam allowance all the way up against the center crease line. Keeping the edge of seam allowance up against that crease line, fold the ribbon down. It should neatly cover the seam allowance. Go slowly and carefully, making sure the edge of the seam allowance stays up against the center line and the edge of the ribbon is nice and straight. Finger press in place as you go.
When this first side of the ribbon binding is set, flip over the bag. Repeat the process on the second half of the ribbon. Adhere a strip of fusible seam tape on this second side of the ribbon.
Remove the paper covering to reveal the sticky stuff.
Fold over the ribbon to cover the seam allowance. Again, go slowly and carefully to keep everything even. When done, press well with your iron. We recommend using a pressing cloth to protect the fabric and ribbon.
Repeat to bind the opposite side seam allowance.
Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the ribbon in the top and bobbin.
Attach your favorite presser foot for edgestitching. We selected the Professional Grade Foot HP for the Janome Continental M8.
NOTE: We did a full tutorial about all the ways to use this great foot. Read more about it here.
Edgestitch along both side seams. Go slowly and carefully to insure you are catching both sides of the binding in this one pass but are not stitching onto the body of the bag.

Making the straps and snap tabs and placing them into position

Find the two 28” lengths of the 1½” ribbon for the straps. Fold each in half lengthwise so they are now ¾” wide. Press to hold the fold.
Re-thread the machine with thread to best match this ribbon in the top and bobbin. We continued to use the Professional Grade Foot HP for the Janome Continental M8.
Edgestitch along each side of each strap.
Set aside the two straps.
Find the two 5” lengths of the 1½” ribbon for the snap tabs. Fold each in half lengthwise so they are now ¾” wide. Press to hold the fold.
Edgestitch along each side of each snap tab.
Fold each tab in half so it is now 2½” . Pin or clip together the raw ends and mark for the position of the snap halves.
The center of each snap should be ½” up from the bottom fold of the tab.
Insert one half of the snap through all the layers of each tab.
NOTE: If you are new to working with snaps, we have a full tutorial you can review prior to starting.
Now is the time to confirm all your original placement marks are still correct and clearly visible on the lining side of the bag. Find the original paper pattern and double check.
Following all your markings, place the raw ends of the straps and the snap tabs into position. The loop of each strap should hang down inside the bag as should the snap tab. Make sure there are no twists in your loops. Also make sure the two sides of the snaps are going to match up. The smooth top of the snap tab should be facing up against the front of the bag. The socket side of the snap should be facing up against the back of the bag. Clip or pin everything in place.
Baste each strap end and each snap tab in place.

Binding the top

Find the 1” ribbon for binding the top of the bag. Cut a length that fits about the entire top of the bag plus about 1-2” for fudging and overlapping to finish.
The top binding is applied in the same manner as the side binding.
First fold the ribbon in half and press to set a visible crease line. Unfold and place a length of fusible seam tape along one half of the ribbon. Because of the longer length of the top binding, you may find it easier to work with the fusible seam tape in smaller lengths – you don’t have to adhere a full strip; you can work in sections.
After exposing the sticky side of the tape, apply the ribbon against the exterior of the bag – you are adhering the bottom half of the ribbon. Start near one side seam.
Continue wrapping and finger pressing around the top of the bag.
When you get back to where you started, trim away the excess so you are only working with an overlap of about 1”. Fold back the raw end of the ribbon about ½’ and overlap to finish. Finger press all around once more.
Position the bag so the remaining half of the ribbon is standing up from the top of the bag and you are looking at the lining side. Apply fusible seam tape to this remaining half of the ribbon.
Wrap the ribbon around to the inside of the bag and clip or pin in place all around.
Be especially careful to make sure the binding is even at your start/end point at the side seam.
NOTE: Remember, your bound side seams will need to flatten either to the front or the back of the bag. We opted to flatten towards the front. The look is ultimately up to you, just make sure both side seams flatten in the same direction – you don’t want any twisting along these bound side seams.
As with the side binding, you will edgestitch all the way around the bag to secure. We slightly lengthened our stitch for this edgestitching. Make sure the straps and snap tabs are hanging down to the inside of the bag before starting your stitching.

NOTE: So … you have adhered the binding with seam tape. Why, you ask, do you also need to edgestitch the ribbon binding?! Seam tape is great, but we don’t like to rely on it as the final way to secure something. The edgestitching makes sure the binding will be firmly held in place. And, since you are stitching right along the edge of the ribbon, this helps prevent the ribbon from “flipping” up as the bag is open and closed.
When your edgestitching is complete. Bring the straps up into their final position and run a short seam along the top of the binding, just across the width of the strap, to hold the straps upright. Do this for each end of each strap loop.

Inserting the base panel

Find the base panel and confirm your four “quadrant points” are still clearly visible.
Find the main bag, which should be right side out, and confirm its points are also marked: center bottom front, center bottom back, and each side seam.
Set the base panel into the “tube” of the bag so the base panel and the bag are lining sides together. It’s a bit like placing a lid upside down into a box.
Using your marked quadrant points, align the base with the bag. Clip or pin at these marked points first…
… then fill in all around.
At each corner, snip into the bottom of the bag to allow it to spread and “ease” so it better fits the rounded corner of the base panel.

NOTE: Once again, remember, your bound side seams will need to flatten either to the front or the back of the bag. We opted to flatten towards the front. Make sure both side seams flatten in the same direction – you don’t want any twisting along these bound side seams.
Re-thread the machine as needed with thread to best match the exterior fabric in the top and bobbin. Lengthen the stitch and baste all around the base panel, using a ¼” seam allowance. As you can see in the photos, we continued to use the Professional Grade Foot HP on our Continental M8.
Go slowly and carefully around each corner curve to insure your clips ease evenly into position against the base panel.
Using the same method as above for the side seams and the top, cut a length of the 1” contrasting ribbon and wrap the raw edges of the seam allowance. As with the top binding, you may find it easier to work with the fusible seam tape in small sections as you work your way around the base panel. Clip or pin all around. Don’t be afraid to use plenty of clips/pins.
As mentioned above in the Supply List, grosgrain ribbon does not have the bias stretch that traditional packaged bias binding has. Because of this, as we went around each round corner, we created a small, subtle fold.
Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the ribbon in the top and bobbin. Keep a slightly lengthened stitch. Edgestitch all around the base panel. Again, go slowly and carefully around your pretty rounded corners.
When the edgestitching is complete, press the bottom binding flat, using a pressing cloth to protect these unique substrates.