The simple, square pillow. It’s a style so easy to make, you could almost do it with your eyes closed… if it weren’t for the stitching-over-your-finger part. The main challenges are finding a great fabric, then fussy-cutting that fabric to best showcase one or more dramatic motifs. However, neither of those things is really that much of a challenge. Fussy-cutting isn’t hard either; it simply takes a little patience and precision. We have an easy step-by-step tutorial. As you can see in the photo above, making your own “designer pillows” is the economical way to go.

When a pillow is as basic as these, the insert is more important than ever. We like to use a down or down alternative insert. Thanks to their super cushy inside, you can get that high-end, karate-choppable look.

How you prepare your fabric also makes a great deal of difference in a simple square pillow. We used two very distinct fabrics: one a heavy-weight home décor fabric in a crewel style, the other a standard quilting weight cotton. With heavier fabrics, if you use a premium pillow form, little else needs to be done besides correctly sizing and cutting. If you’re using a lighter weight fabric, consider doing what we often do: add a later of batting (as we are doing today) and/or fusible interfacing to give your fabric more stability and to create a super smooth exterior. If your fabric is especially lightweight or a specialty fabric, you can even add a third lining layer for a super professional finish.

Another great thing about pillow projects is they don’t use much fabric. So even if you choose a brand name home décor fabric, which can often run from $30 to $50 and up per yard, you usually need much less than a yard. And with the super wide widths most home décor fabrics come in (usually 53-60″), you’ll likely come away with enough to make more than one pillow or with a generous remnant to use for another fun project, like a cute bag.

And remember, for the best plump and taut finish, cut your pillow to the same finished dimension as your pillow form or even a bit smaller. For an 18″ pillow form, go for a 17″ cover.

Sewing Tools You Need

Sewing machine and standard presser foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

¾ – 1 yard of 44″+ wide fabric for the 20″ x 20″ pillow; we originally used a 54″ home décor fabric with a crewel-look
½ – ¾ yard of 44″+ wide fabric for the 16″ x 16″ pillow; we originally used a 44″ designer cotton fabric
NOTE: In both cases above there is a fabric cut range listed. The amount depends on the size of the motif in the fabric you select. If your fabric has a large motif, get a bit more than you really need in order to allow a wonderful fussy cut.
Optional (but recommended) for 16″ x 16″ cotton pillow: 1 yard of 20″ + lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Shir-Tailor®
Optional (but recommended) for 16″ x 16″ cotton pillow: 1 yard of 20″ + lightweight, low loft batting
One 20″ x 20″ quality pillow form
One 16″ x 16″ quality pillow form
All-purpose thread to match fabric
See-through ruler
Fabric pen or pencil
Iron and ironing board
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Straight pins
Hand sewing needle
Tissue or pattern paper (optional for fussy cutting)

Getting Started

For pillows where it’s ALL about the fabric (there are no additional embellishments), it’s also all about how the design is presented. From the fabric, fussy cut TWO 20″ x 20″ squares for the 20″ pillow and two 16″ x 16″ squares for the 16″ pillow.
You can eyeball your motif and cut.
Or, we often like to cut a pattern from tissue paper or other semi-transparent paper in order to really be able to see the motif within a “frame” and get the very best cuts possible. When you have your perfect position, lay a see-through ruler along the edge of the paper and cut with a rotary cutter.
Whatever your choice, take your time and buy enough fabric to be able to center things just the way you want them.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Place the front and back pillow squares right sides together, aligning all four raw edges. Pin in place all around, leaving an approximate 9″ – 14″ opening along the bottom edge.
NOTE: Your opening should be generous enough to easily stuff in the pillow form, but remember, you will have to hand stitch that opening.
If you have a directional fabric, make sure both sides are facing the proper direction when you place them right sides together.
Using a ½” seam allowance, sew around all four sides. Remember to pivot at the corners and to lock your seam at both sides of the bottom opening left for turning.
Trim all four corners at a diagonal. For more about corner-cutting, see our tutorial.
Turn the cover right side out through the opening and press flat.
Insert the 20″ x 20″ pillow form.
Gently fluff it into each corner, working from the farthest side toward the opening.
Turn under the raw edges of the opening used for turning so they are flush with the sewn seam. Pin closed.
Thread a hand-sewing needle with matching thread and slip stitch/ladder stitch the opening closed. Use small stitches to keep your work as unnoticeable as possible.

Optional layering for quilt weight fabric

Our 16″ pillow fabric is a standard quilting weight cotton. For the smoothest, best finish, as we mentioned above, we recommend adding a layer of fusible interfacing and/or batting. We used both for our sample pillow.
Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of both the front and back cotton pieces.
Place the fused front and back pieces right sides together.
Make a sandwich with the batting, layering a piece on either side of the fabric pieces. Make sure all the edges of all the layers are flush. Pin in place.

NOTE: As an added help against shifting, you could hand or machine baste the batting to the front and to the back and then place the fabric right sides together.
As above, stitch all four sides, turn right side out, and insert the 16″ x 16″ pillow form.
Pin the opening closed.
Slip/Ladder stitch closed.