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Mini Coin Purse
If we must say so ourselves (and sometimes we must), these little coin purses are about as adorable as they come! Not only do they get five stars on the cuteness chart, they are super easy. Make one for yourself (because you deserve it!), then make a bundle for your friends. They are the perfect fast and fun gift. Fill them with coins and gift cards, tasty treats, or other little goodies. We used a variety of different eye-poppin’ colors and patterns for our exteriors with a matching fabric (but in three different colorways) on the inside to tie our three together as a set. Spare change just got a whole lot more fun!
The front of each little purse features a beautiful pleated strip accented with decorative stitching. We then selected embroidery floss in a color to match the accent stitching, and used this floss to stitch the metal frame in place along the top. It’s the unique, personalized details like these that turn a simple gift into something extra special.
We originally used two fat quarters from our S4H stash in the Simply Color collection by Vanessa Christenson for Moda Fabrics. This is an older collection that is no longer readily available, but we’re betting you just might have some leftover fat quarters or larger scraps in your own stash that would be the perfect pair for this small project.
Each coin purse finishes at approximately 5½” wide at the widest point near the bottom x 4½” high, excluding the 5″ frame. As mentioned below, we originally used an Everything Mary 5″ sew-on purse frame from Jo-Ann Fabric, but other approximate 5″ frames can work as well, such as this option we found recently online, using the search terms: 5″ and sew-on and purse frames.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
Fabric and Other Supplies
NOTE: Ingredients shown below are for ONE coin purse.
- Scraps or Two Fat Quarters (our choice) – one for the exterior and pleated accent, one for the lining; if you do not use Fat Quarters, you will need two coordinating cut pieces; the one for the exterior and pleating strip should be at least 18″ x 22″
- ¼ yard or scrap of low-loft batting; you need a 8″ x 12″ piece
- One ready-made purse frame; we originally used an Everything Mary 5″ sew-on purse frame from Jo-Ann Fabric, but other approximate 5″ frames can work as well, such as this option we found recently online, using the search terms: 5″ and sew-on and purse frames
- All purpose thread to match fabric
- 40wt. embroidery thread in a contrasting color for the front decorative stitching; we used Madeira Rayon
- 6-strand embroidery floss to match embroidery thread to stitch the frame to the purse; we used cotton floss by DMC
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Iron and ironing board
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Straight pins
- Hand sewing needle with a large eye for sewing with floss
- Regular hand sewing needle
Getting Started and Pattern Download
- DOWNLOAD AND PRINT: the Frame Purse Pattern.
IMPORTANT: This pattern consists of ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
NOTE: The dots shown on our pattern correspond with the purse frame we used. As we mentioned above, you may need to adjust the size and shape of the pattern a bit to best fit the frame(s) you use. This adjustment would include the position of the dots. When measuring for the dots, they should be placed just behind the frame’s hinges on either side.
- Cut out the pattern along the solid line.
- From the fabric for the exterior and pleat, cut the following:
Using the pattern, cut TWO pieces (one front and one back)
ONE 2½” x 22″ strip (you could also use a jelly roll pre-cut strip for this element)
- From the fabric for the lining, using the pattern, cut TWO pieces (one front and one back). Transfer the marked dots on the paper pattern to the wrong side of both lining pieces.
- From the batting, using the pattern, cut TWO pieces (one front and one back). Transfer the marked dots to each of the batting pieces.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
Pleated accent with decorative stitching
- Find the 2½” x 22″ strip.
- Make a ⅛” double-turn hem along each 22″ side of the strip. To do this, fold in the raw edge ⅛” and press, then fold in an additional ⅛” and press again, encasing the raw edge in fold. Stitch close to the fold to secure. We used matching thread in the top and bobbin with a standard straight stitch.
NOTE: If you are new to making simple double turn hems, you can read our tutorial prior to starting. You could also use a Rolled Hem foot for this step.
- Fold the strip into ¾” box pleats, starting ½” in from one end.
- Pin in place. There should be some excess fabric at the opposite end.
NOTE: If you are new to pleating, check out our tutorial on Box Pleats.
- Place the pleated strip on the purse front, centering the strip side to side. Pin in place. The top ½” of flat fabric should be at the top of the body panel. Trim any excess fabric at the bottom end so there is a matching ½” of flat fabric at the bottom of the body panel.
- Re-thread your machine with bobbin thread in the bobbin and the 40wt embroidery thread in the needle. Following the settings and process for your machine and model, select a favorite decorative stitch, and stitch the pleats in place. You are stitching along the exact center of the pleated strip through all the layers.
NOTE: If you are concerned about keeping your stitching line consistent, you could use a marking pen or pencil to draw in a centered line to follow.
Purse body assembly
- Pin both the pleated purse front and the plain purse back to a matching piece of batting. All edges of both layers should be flush for each pair.
- Place these to pinned pieces right sides together, matching the raw edges all around. Pin in place.
- Switch from embroidery thread back to regular thread. Re-set for a standard straight stitch.
- Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch around the lower part of the purse, through all the layers, from marked dot to marked dot.
- Carefully clip the curves and turn the purse right side out. Use your finger or a long tool with a blunt end, such as a chopstick, knitting needle or point turner, to smooth the curved seam.
- Find the two purse lining pieces.
- Place the pieces right sides together, matching the raw edges all around. Pin in place.
- Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch around the lower part of the purse from marked dot to marked dot as you did with the exterior, but on this lining, leave a 2-3″ opening along the bottom. Remember to lock your seam at either side of this 2-3″ opening.
- With the purse exterior right side out and the purse lining wrong side out, place the purse exterior inside the purse lining. The exterior and lining are now right sides together. Smooth the layers so the pieces lay as flat as possible against one another.
- Align the upper raw edges of the purse and lining, and pin in place from marked dot to marked dot along the top on both the front layers and the back layers. In other words, from the points on either side where the purse body seams stop. Remember, you are pinning the front layers and back layers separately; you are not pinning through all four layers… you wouldn’t be able to open the purse if you did that!
- Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch the front layers together. You are again stitching from marked dot to marked dot, but are now going around the top rather than around the bottom. Repeat to stitch the back layers together.
- Carefully turn the purse right side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining.
- Smooth the lining down into the inside of the purse.
- Finger press the seams, then very lightly press the entire purse. Fold in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with sewn seam. Pin the opening in place.
- Thread the regular hand sewing needle with matching thread and slip stitch the opening in the lining closed.
- Slide the upper edge of the front and back into the purse frame. The frame should end just above the seam on each side, leaving a bit of a gap behind the hinge, which allows the purse to open more easily.
- Thread the large-eyed hand sewing needle with 6 strands of embroidery floss and whip stitch the purse frame in place.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler
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Would love to make Mini Coin Purse with sew in 5” metal frame. BUT can not find 5” frame anywhere. Would appreciate your suggestions on Amazon or others.
Thank you in advance.
Hi Judy – as mentioned above, we searched online using the key words: purse frame, 5″, curved, ball clasp” to get the option listed above in our intro and supplies list. You certainly may be able to find other options. Our link is to a website called Very Charms:
Thank you, Liz. I will look on Amazon to find the purse frame you suggested.
I would like to make this cute coin purse as Christmas gifts this year. I am having a very hard time finding the 5″sew on purse frame. All frames I find online are smaller. Went on Joanns website, but could not find this purse frame. Can you direct me to where I can find this size purse frame. Thank you!
Hi Mary – oh goodness, inventory shifts so quickly these days! A new online search spotted this frame at Amazon (link below) – or you could do your own search online for “5” sew on purse frame” to find others. Etsy is often a good option.
Love this – but I have a
Love this – but I have a question. How do you thread your machine with embroidery floss in the needle – should I separate out a strand or two and wind it around a spool? I’d love to make these for my sisters for Christmas! Thanks!
@stephonic – Thanks! Your
@stephonic – Thanks! Your sisters will love them. The decorative stitching is done with 40wt embroidery machine thread — the kind that comes on a spool so you’d thread your machine with it just like regular thread. The embroidery floss that attaches the frame is done with a hand sewing needle with a larger eye.
Ahh – I see that in the
Ahh – I see that in the materials now. Thanks for clearing that up for me!
The pattern fits beautifully into my purse frame. Do I need to add a 1/4 to the sides and top of the pattern, so it will fit when I am finished?
@Carolyn – Just to clarify – do you mean the printed pattern itself fits your frame… with no trimming? If so, then yes, you would need to that extra 1/4″ because that amount will be taken up in the top seam.