Puffer jackets and coats have been around for awhile, known not only for their wonderful warmth, but also as a style choice of fashion leaders from sports to Hollywood to the concert stage. Recently, eagle-eyed S4H trend-spotters saw the look starting to show up on high-end shoulder bags. We knew we wanted to lead the pack in bringing a DIY version to you. 

Top trends aside, this was also an excellent opportunity to use the new Janome Continental M8 Professional with its A.S.R.™ Accurate Stitch Regulator. With the bag’s lofty layers and detailed clamshell pattern, as well as the fact that the fabric is ripstop (known to be a bit of a difficult, slippery substrate), we were confident the project could be a great showcase for the A.S.R.™ system. And we were right. 

The instructions below show you how we used the Janome M8, the A.S.R.™ Accurate Stitch Regulator with the ruler work foot, and the Janome Sew Comfortable Edge to Edge Template Set for our front panel embellishment. We took advantage of the clamshell template to stitch five rows of perfect 3” scallops across the bag’s front panel. Stitching with the A.S.R.™ and the ruler work foot was so smooth and easy – almost like drawing on the fabric with thread. To emphasize this, you’ll see from the photos above and below that we used the same color thread in the top and the bobbin for our clamshells as well as the straight line quilting; it creates some beautiful “stitch art” on the inside of the bag!

The A.S.R.™ is currently included on the Janome CM17 and the Janome M8, and is compatible as an option on the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 9480QCP. If one of these models is not currently in your sewing space, you can get a similar look using standard free motion quilting techniques with or without a ruler work foot and template. 

If you haven’t played around with the control you have using the A.S.R.™ system, we do encourage you to visit your local Janome dealer to give it a try. There are four special A.S.R.™ feet included so all your free-motion needs are covered: closed-toe, open toe, clear view, and the exclusive ruler work foot. Using camera technology, the job of the A.S.R.™ is to keep consistent spacing between the stitches, resulting in smooth curves and balanced stitches. A couple things about Janome’s version of a regulator, because you know Janome is always thinking about the best and most intuitive enhancements: the surface of the Janome camera moving across your fabric is larger, and it does a better job reading and regulating on dark fabrics, plus – you can adjust the regulation as your skills build.

We turned to ripstop as our fabric choice for two reasons: 1) it’s the same type of nylon fabric used on classic puffer coats, and 2) it comes in a wide array of fantastic colors, like the eye-popping combo we used. Both the bag itself and the shoulder strap feature both colors. Then, the royal blue of the lining becomes the upper binding, and the fluorescent green exterior fabric is used to bind the visible interior seam allowances, which are created because of our easy, layered construction method.

Two layers of ripstop with a single layer of high loft polyester batting sandwiched between gives a nice amount of puff without making the quilt sandwich too bulky for ruler work.

Widely spaced, continuous straight line quilting wraps around the bag to meet at the front clamshell panel. An inset base insures good structure and makes it easy to set down your puffer bag without it tipping over.

The main pieces are simple rectangles you’ll cut once your free motion stitching is complete. There is a free pattern download for the shoulder strap so you can get the perfect double flared ends. This extra long, fixed position strap can be comfortably worn over the shoulder or crossbody.

The puffer bags we saw at retailers from Coach to Anthropologie all had a very sporty, casual vibe; our DIY version is designed in the same mode. And, our on-the-go model makes a stunning, can’t-wait-for-Spring statement with the bag’s bright colors and easy-going style. We do always love to ask our models for their opinions on the projects, and the Puffer Sling Bag got Five Stars. “It’s really soft to hug right up against my body, and I love how lightweight it is. Can I keep it?”

Skinny ties are included to tie together the top of the bag. In order to keep the soft, lightweight nature of the bag, we opted not to include any metal hardware, such as magnetic snaps or a zipper. As always, you can certainly alter this option, forgoing the ties for your own favorite closure.

Our thanks to Janome America for their support of this project and many of our other popular projects – especially for the use of the incredible Janome Continental M8 Professional. If you’re shopping for your next machine upgrade, we recommend taking a look at this model. Visit a local dealer for an in-person tour of the M8 and the A.S.R.™ Accurate Stitch Regulator. To find out more, visit their website, and follow them on social media.

The Puffer Sling Bag finishes at approximately 16” wide x 12” high x 5” deep. The single shoulder strap is about 39” long with a 17” drop.

Regarding laundering your finished bag: there’s nothing that can’t be washed and the polyester batting is bonded. We suggest a machine wash on gentle and a tumble dry on low. The binding that finishes all the seams is what gives the bag its shape, so washing it won’t change that! Do not use Scotchgard, the ripstop is naturally water repellent.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• For the clamshell quilting: A.S.R.™ Accurate Stitch Regulator and A.S.R. ruler foot; or set up your machine for free motion work with an appropriate presser foot
• Also for the clamshell quilting: the Janome Sew Comfortable Edge to Edge Template Set – we used the 3” clamshell ruler
• For the straight line quilting: Even Feed or Walking foot; or engage your machine’s built-in fabric feeding system, such as the Janome AcuFeed™ Flex system
  NOTE: For this project, it is important to have some type of dual feed set-up for your machine. You could attempt it with a standard presser foot and regular feed dogs, but the slippery nature of the ripstop and the loftiness of the batting will likely make that option rather challenging.

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: The yardages shown below are generous enough to allow for extra stitching practice and tests as well as to allow for starting with the large panels that will be cut down to size after stitching is complete. Ripstop is quite inexpensive; better to have too much than too little.

• 1 yard of 54”+ ripstop or similar lightweight nylon fabric for the exterior of the bag, the front of the strap, and the interior seam binding; we used a standard 60” ripstop nylon in fluorescent green
• 1 yard of 54”+ ripstop or similar lightweight nylon fabric for the interior of the bag, the back of the strap, the top binding, and the top ties; we used a standard 60” ripstop nylon in royal blue
• 1 yard of 45”+ high loft batting; we used Poly-Fil Extra-Loft batting from Fairfield – if packaged, “crib size” is a good option
• 40wt polyester embroidery thread to match fabrics for free motion work
• All-purpose thread to match fabrics for construction
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board and pressing cloth to protect ripstop
  NOTE: Any pressing will be limited at best and must be done with a pressing cloth. Ripstop, like most nylon substrates, is no fan of direct heat. The majority of the “flattening” should be done with your own hands.
• Scissors and/or rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins and/or clips; we found clips were a good option for securing the thick layers
• Long, thin hemostats for turning the tiny ties – or a point turner

Getting Started and Pattern Download

1. Download and print the Puffer Sling Bag strap pattern.
   
   IMPORTANT: This pattern bundle consists of FOUR 8½” x 11″ sheets, which have been bundled into one PDF to make the download easier. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE OR SHRINK to fit the page. The pages are set up to print horizontally (landscape). There is a guide rule on each sheet to confirm your printout is to scale. Quilting guide lines are marked on the pattern pieces in a second color; so if possible, print your pattern in color.
2. Cut out each pattern section along the solid line. Using the single, double, and triple arrow markings shown on pattern sections, match up these markings and butt together the sections. Do NOT overlap.Tape together to create one full strap pattern.
3. From the fabric for the upper binding and the top ties (the royal blue ripstop in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 2½” x 45” strip for the upper binding
   TWO 1½” x 12½” strips for the top ties
4. From the fabric for the interior seam binding (the fluorescent green ripstop in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 3” x 50” strip for the base binding
   TWO 3” x 13” strips for the side binding
5. All final cuts for the main panels and the base will be done after the free motion work is completed. This is know as “wild cutting” or “cutting blanks” – you first start with large panels, layering them to create all the stitching, then cut each down to the correct final size. Below are the blank sizes we used. You could always go larger, but we wouldn’t suggest cutting smaller.
6. From BOTH ripstop colors AND the high loft batting, cut the following blanks:
   ONE 15” x 15” blank for the front panel
   ONE 36” x 15” blank for the body panel
   ONE 20” x 8” blank for the base panel
   NOTE: Our ripstop fabric arrived in a small bag and so had some stubborn fold lines. Because of this, after cutting our blanks, we did choose to press all the blanks to get them as flat and smooth as possible. This MUST be done with your iron on a lower setting and with a pressing cloth! No exceptions unless you want your pretty ripstop – and likely your iron – to be ruined with melted nylon. This was the only point in the construction that we used an iron.  
7. The strap layering and final cutting from the pattern will be done towards the end of the project steps below. In preparation, cut from BOTH ripstop colors AND the high loft batting ONE 8” x 42” blank.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Testing

1. All the cutting details are listed above, but we strongly encourage you to use the extra fabric and batting to cut one or two test panels, layering the two ripstop colors with the batting in between. This will allow you to confirm all your settings and practice your ruler work. In the photo below, you can see we are using a different color of ripstop to do some initial testing prior to switching to our chosen fabric. This is a good option if you happen to have some ripstop in your stash. If not, simply use the extra main fabric.
   
2. In the next photo, you’ll see a few of the other tests we did during the initial design process to determine the best sizing for our scallops, the best options for layering, and more. We do talk a lot about testing and practicing here at S4H; that is because we do it ourselves and it makes all the difference in the success of the final project.
   

Preparing for the clamshell ruler work on the front panel

1. With your testing complete, find the two 15” x 15” ripstop panels and the 15” x 15” batting panel. 
2. Sandwich the batting between the ripstop layers.
   NOTE: One of the nice things about ripstop is there isn’t a right side or wrong side – both are the same. If using another type of substrate without this benefit, your exterior and lining layers should be wrong sides together with the batting between.
3. Clip the layers together. Make sure both layers of ripstop are nice and smooth.
   
4. Find your marking tool.
   NOTE: It is VERY important your pen is one that will easily wipe away or fade with exposure to the air. You need a pen that is dark enough to easily see and follow with your quilting, so it is essential that dark line can be removed. We used a pen that created a line that disappeared with exposure to the air in about 12 – 24 hours.
5. Mark the five horizontal base lines you need for the clamshell ruler work. 
6. The first line should be 3½” down from the top raw edge of the panels.
   
7. Starting from that first line, draw four additional lines at 2¼” intervals
   
8. Machine baste around all four sides of the panel. This helps hold everything in place, and you won’t have the worry of running into clips when free motion quilting.
   

Clamshell ruler work with the Janome A.S.R.™ Accurate Stitch Regulator

1. Set up your machine for free motion quilting/ruler work. As mentioned above, we used the Janome M8, the A.S.R.™ Accurate Stitch Regulator with the ruler work foot, and the Janome Sew Comfortable Edge to Edge Template Set for our front panel embellishment. We took advantage of the clamshell template to stitch five rows of perfect 3” scallops across the bag’s front panel.
   
2. Also as mentioned above, we threaded our machine with 40wt polyester embroidery thread, using thread to match the exterior ripstop in both the top and bobbin.
   
   NOTE: Our ripstop combo features two very different yet very compatible colors: one dark and one light. We tested several threading options, landing on the same color top and bobbin for two reasons: 1) it insures there is zero chance of a speck of darker bobbin thread showing up, because even with the best machine and the best operator, a slight bobble or an unintentional stop in your free motion quilting can cause a bit of bobbin thread to show on the top. That is why free motion quilting experts nearly always recommend using the same color thread in the top and bobbin – and it is the main reason we suggest it here. 2) The bright fluorescent green thread against the royal blue lining creates some beautiful “stitch art” on the inside of the bag!
   
3. You will use your drawn base lines as a guide to line up the clamshell template.
   
4. For the best look, the rows of clamshells should be offset, like subway tiles. In the photo below, we’ve moved the template out of the way to show how the rows are offset and centered. You can also see how we’ve stitched “into” the row from the raw edge in order to make sure there will be continuous stitching all around when we cut the panel to its final size.
   
5. Complete all five rows of ruler work.
   
6. Working with the Janome M8, the A.S.R.™ Accurate Stitch Regulator with the ruler work foot, and the Janome Sew Comfortable Edge to Edge Template Set was a dream, and as a Janome Exclusive Studio, is our recommendation. That said, you can get a similar effect with standard free motion quilting, and of course, you could choose to use a different set of tools. 
7. Ruler work is not complex; the key to mastering it is practice!
   NOTE: For specific settings, suggestions, tips, and techniques using Janome products, we suggest going to their Continental Club Facebook Page. You’ll find lots of great ideas, project inspiration, and video demos. Of course, visiting a local Janome dealer for an in-person demonstration is the best way to get a hands-on experience. And, if you are in the USA or Canada and already own one of the A.S.R.™ compatible Janome models, make sure you sign up for the Janome Continental Academy. 

Cutting the front panel to size

1. The cut size of the front panel should be 13” wide x 12½” high. To find this measurement, center your ruler across a row of scallops. The center point of your width (6½”) should align with the center of the scallop. 
2. Do this top and bottom, making four outer marks at the full 13” width.
   
3. Connect the marks along each side with a vertical line, and using your rotary cutter, slice along the drawn lines. 
4. For the height, first find your top point. This should be ⅜” up from the top row of scallops. Draw a horizontal line at this measurement, and using your rotary cutter, slice along the drawn line.
   
5. Measure 12½” down from this newly-sliced top edge and draw a horizontal line at this measurement. Using your rotary cutter, slice along the drawn line.
6. You should now have a perfectly centered 13” wide x 12½” high front panel. 

Preparing the main body panel and the base panel

1. Layer the blanks for the main body panel and the base panel in the same manner as you did above with the front panel. Don’t forget to machine baste around all four sides of each layered panel. 
2. To mark for the straight line quilting on the body panel, you’ll align the body panel with your sewn front panel. 
3. Center the body panel alongside the front panel, this means there will be a bit of extra body panel above and below the trimmed front panel. 
4. Draw in five lines that exactly match the five base lines on the front panel. These lines should be 2¼” apart. The lines run horizontally across the body panel, just like the front panel.
   
5. On the base panel, the quilting lines run vertically. First find the exact center of your base panel and align this center point with the center of the bottom row of scallops on the front panel. Draw in this first center vertical line, and then draw additional parallel lines at 3” intervals to the left and right of center. You will have five main lines, but might have one or two more near the edges; this is fine as they will be trimmed away.
   
   NOTE: Our scallop ruler work template was designed for 3” scallops, which is why the base panel interval given above is 3”. However, it is best to actually align your ruler with the true width of the scallops as you move across the base panel. Our “true” width was 2⅞” because there is always some shrinkage that happens with any kind of quilting. So – again – use the scallops themselves on the front panel as the true guide for your vertical base panel lines. 

Straight line quilting on the body panel and base panel

1. Set up your machine for straight line quilting with a dual feed foot. We are using the AcuFeed™ Flex dual feed foot and a straight stitch needle plate. The AcuFeed™ Flex built-in fabric feeding system is standard on many Janome models. As mentioned above, using a dual feed foot is really critical for this project’s straight line quilting as well as the remainder of the construction process. It will keep the slippery, lofty layers moving in unison across the needle plate. 
2. We kept our 40wt polyester embroidery thread in the bright green in both the top and bobbin. Our stitch length was set to 2.8mm.
3. Following your drawn guide lines, add the straight line quilting to the body panel. Start with the panel’s center line…
   
4. Then move out to the right and then out to the left.
   
5. Repeat with the base panel.
   
6. So pretty – and puffy – front and back.
   
7. Centering your quilting lines, trim down the body panel to 31” x 12½” and trim the base panel to 17” x 6”.

Assemble the main body of the bag and bind the interior side seams

1. Find the main body panel and the front panel. Place the two panels right sides together, aligning one set of side edges. Pin in place.
   
2. Re-thread with all-purpose thread in the top and bobbin. Continue to use thread to best match the exterior fabric in both the top and bobbin. We are still using our AcuFeed™ Flex system, a straight stitch needle plate, and a 2.8mm stitch length.
3. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch this first side seam.
   
4. Repeat to pin the remaining side edges, forming a tube. 
5. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch this second side seam. Do not grade either seam allowance at this point.
   
6. Find the two 3” x 13” binding strips. They should be in the exterior fabric … this was our choice. If you don’t want your interior binding to “pop,” you could choose to use strips to match your lining fabric.
7. Fold one strip in half so it is now 1½” x 13”.
8. Because you cannot press ripstop the way you would a standard folded binding strip, we instead suggest machine basting along the raw edges to “hold the fold.” About ¼” is a good width.
   
9. Find the bag body – the “tube.” It should be wrong side out. Flatten it to reveal one side seam. 
10. Align the basted raw edges of the binding strip with the raw edges of the seam allowance – just the seam allowance; you are not stitching onto the body of the bag. Because of the security of the AcuFeed™ Flex feeding system, we did not use pins or clips to hold our binding strip in place against the seam allowance. We simply held it with our fingers and stitched at a slow and even pace. You could certainly choose to pin the binding in place.
    
11. NOW we’re going to grade the seam allowance, but just a scant ⅛” – just to the right of the machine basting. This helps insure a nice, tight wrap.
    
12. Bring the folded edge of the binding around the seam allowance (remember, you are just working with the seam allowance). Make sure you wrap the fold around so it just covers the original seam line. Pin in place.
    
13. Flip over and topstitch along the seam line to secure. As you can see in the photo below, you are stitching just to the right of the seam line; in other words, you are not stitching in the ditch.
    
14. When done, and viewed from the other side, it is a tight wrap and a beautiful bound finish to your seam allowance.
    
15. Repeat to bind the remaining seam allowance. 
16. When complete, trim any excess binding flush with the main panels.
    

Insert the base panel and bind the interior base seam allowance

1. Find the main body of the bag. You are going to mark the four quadrant points at the base of this tube. To do this, first align the two bound seam allowances and flatten the bag. Place a pin point at each outer fold. These are your side quadrant points.
   
2. Fold and flatten in the opposite direction, making sure those original pins are indeed at either side, then mark the center front and center back quadrant points.
   
3. In a similar manner, mark each center point on the base panel with a pin.
   
4. Set the base panel into the tube, right sides together. First align the four quadrant points of the base to the tube and pin in place.
   
5. Then fill in all around with pins.
   
6. Clip into each corner of the tube at a depth of ⅜”. This allows the tube just enough ease to turn a better corner against the base panel.
   
7. Start with one of the short sides. At this first corner, drop your needle ½” in from the raw edge.
   
8. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across, stopping ½” from the opposite corner.
   
9. Pivot about half way at the corner and take two to three stitches across the corner, using the handwheel.
   
   NOTE: This little extra bit of stitching across the corner creates a more graceful and stronger corner when the bag is turned right side out. You are basically kind of “rounding” the corner, which helps make sure there is no danger of corner clips becoming a tear. 
10. Complete the pivot and continue stitching down the long side with a ½” seam allowance. We made sure our two bound side seams were both folded toward the center front panel.
    
11. Trim back the seam allowance a scant ⅛” all around and trim each corner at the diagonal. This will help make binding the seam allowance easier.
    
12. The base seam allowance is bound in the same manner as you did above for the side seams. 
13. Find the 3” x 50” strip. Fold it in half so it is now 1½” x 50”, then baste the raw edges as you did above. 
14. Align the binding with the base seam allowance.
    
15. We recommend starting at the center back and stitching into each corner from there. At the corners, if need be, you can snip into the binding strip for an easier turn.
    
16. Ripstop doesn’t fray, so when you get back to your starting point, you can simply overlap the ends and trim away and excess.
    
17. Again as you did above with the side seam binding, trim back the seam allowance a scant ⅛”, then wrap the folded edge of the binding around the seam allowance and pin generously.
    
18. Flip over and flatten under the presser foot, stitching all the way around just to the right of your original seam.
    
    NOTE: If you are brand new to inserting base panels, we have two detailed tutorials you can review prior to starting: How to Insert a Rectangular Base into a Tube and  How to Insert a Flat Round Base into a Tube.

Create the strap and the narrow ties

1. Find the two 8” x 42” strap blanks in the two colors of ripstop and the one 8” x 42” batting blank. 
2. Layer the two ripstop blanks. Remember, ripstop doesn’t have a right side or wrong side, but if you are using a substrate that does, layer the two panels right sides together. 
3. Place the assembled strap pattern on top and pin in place.
   
4. Cut out the strap.
5. Layer the trimmed ripstop straps on top of the batting blank. Pin in place and use the trimmed ripstop as your pattern to trim the batting flush.
   
6. Take all three layers to the machine, and using a ½” seam allowance, stitch both sides of the strap. Do not stitch across either end.
   
7. Turn right side out through the open ends.
   
8. Finger/hand press flat. 
9. Draw in the two quilting lines. Measure at the narrower center of the strap. Each line should be ¾” in from the seamed edge. Start at the center and extend your lines to either end. Yes, this means the quilting lines are further away from the seamed sides at the wider flared ends of the strap.
   
10. Re-thread the machine with 40wt polyester embroidery thread in the top and bobbin. As above, use thread to match the exterior in the top and bobbin. We are continuing to use the AcuFeed™ Flex built-in fabric feeding system, straight stitch needle plate, and a 2.8mm stitch length.
11. Stitch along each of the two drawn guide lines.
    
12. Just as pretty front and back as the body of the bag. Trim any exposed batting flush with the strap ends.
    
13. Find the two 1½ “ x 12½” top tie strips. These should match the bag lining.
14. Re-thread the machine with the 40wt polyester embroidery thread in the color to match the lining (the royal blue in our sample) in the top and bobbin.
15. Fold each strip in half so it is now ¾” x 12½” (again, if using a substrate with a distinct right side and wrong side, this fold would be right sides together). 
16. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch each thin tie down the side and across one end. The opposite end can remain raw.
    
17. Turn the thin ties right side out through the open end using a pair of thin hemostats (our choice) or a point turner. If you are new to this trick for turning tiny tubes, we have a detailed tutorial you can review prior to starting. 

Place the ties and strap ends and bind the top

1. As you did above when preparing to insert the base panel, find the four quadrant points around the top of the bag: front center, back center, and both side centers. Place a marking pin at each point. 
2. Place a tie at the front center and back center points, aligning the raw end of each tie with the top raw edge of the bag.
   
3. Center the strap ends at each side pin point. The lining side of the strap should be against the lining of the bag and the strap itself should be laying inside the bag. Pin the strap ends in place and then baste the ends in place – an approximate ⅛” seam allowance is good for this basting.
   
   NOTE: We didn’t baste the tie ends, but you certainly could. It’s okay to do the basting with the blue thread currently threaded in the machine. It will be hidden within the binding. If any peeks out, it can be removed later.
4. Find the 2½” x 45” binding strip (in the royal blue ripstop for our sample).
5. As you’ve done above for the other binding strips, fold it in half (1¼” x 45”) and then machine baste at ⅛” along the raw edges to “hold the fold.”
6. With the bag right side out, and starting at the center back, align the basted raw edges of the binding with the top raw edge of the bag. 
7. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch the binding in place. As you can see in the photo below, we again chose to not use pins. As mentioned before, the AcuFeed™ Flex system does a beautiful job of holding the layers in place, but pins are definitely an option should you wish.
   
8. When you get back to your starting point, simply overlap the binding ends to finish, trimming away any excess.
9. Wrap the folded edge around to the inside of the bag. Take note that the top edge of the bag is a bit “squishy” because of the batting, so be extra careful as you wrap and pin to keep the exterior binding reveal even all around.
   
10. Remove any visible basting stitches along the strap ends.
11. Turn the bag wrong side out to allow it to more easily slip under the presser foot and to keep the top edge flat and smooth. 
12. As you’ve done above, topstitch all around just to the right of the seam – not in the ditch. This seam positioning insures there won’t be any blue thread that accidentally “wobbles” onto your pretty green exterior; you are doing all the topstitching with blue thread in the top and bobbin, within the blue of the binding. 
13. Remember to keep the ties and the strap down and out of the way of this seam.
    
14. Finally, with the bag still inside out, pull the strap up into position and run an additional line of topstitching across just the width of each strap end. Run this seam within the binding close to the top of the binding. This stitching helps secure the strap in its upright position.
    
15. Turn the bag right side out and push out the corners.

Project Design: Anne Adams
Sample Creation plus A.S.R.™ Testing + Planning: Michele Mishler