When you want something to be more fun, you give it a nick name. Alexandra is someone who shops Rodeo Drive with a small dog in her Louis Vuitton® bag. Lexie is your BFF who cruises the flea markets with you. Metropolitan can feel crowded, expensive and snobby. Metro is hip, trendy and cool… just like today’s bag! The fabric is from the World Tour collection by David Butler’s Parson Gray for FreeSpirit Fabrics. But what makes the bag unique are the ribbons, which are also by Parson Gray, but produced by our friends at Renaissance Ribbons. “Where are the ribbons?” you ask. That’s the secret! We created “ribbon fabric,” a technique we’ve shown you to some extent in other Renaissance Ribbons projects, such as the Ribbon Fold-Over Wallet. The difference here is how we’ve used just one ⅝” wide ribbon, stacking it to create perfectly matching accents of varying widths: single, triple and quadruple. It’s not only an amazing embellishment, it adds a patina and texture you can only get from a woven ribbon.
Our thanks to Renaissance Ribbons for sponsoring today’s project. Their lovely ribbons are all available online; they’ve even created a special Sew4Home area on their site where our tutorials are featured and all the ribbons we used can be ordered with a few simple clicks.
This project also answers your requests for more “guy friendly” items. Both the World Tour fabric collection and the coordinating ribbon collection, which draws designs from several Parson Gray fabrics, have richly muted colors and motifs that give them a masculine appeal (although several women here at S4H were ready to grab this Metro Bag for their own). In addition, the substrates within the fabric collection add unique textures to the mix: six linen, six canvas, and 12 cotton. Our Metro bag uses the heavy-gauge canvas for the exterior and a quilting/fashion cotton for the lining. And, of course, the fine woven ribbons are the ultimate finish.
Our special thanks to our Metro Model, Ben of Melbourne, Australia. Fresh from hiking over 2,000 miles on the Pacific Crest Trail, he was a very good sport and an ace model for the bag.
You’ll not only want to explore all the ribbons from Parson Gray, but also the collections from David’s wife, Amy Butler, as well as many of your other favorite designers, such as Dena Designs, Jane Sassaman, Sue Spargo and Anna Maria Horner.
You’ll notice we used pins to hold our ribbons in place. Another option would be to apply a little basting glue or strips of lightweight fusible web, such as Stitch Witchery by Dritz®, to the wrong side of the ribbon. Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and test to make sure the ribbon can be easily stitched without the adhesive gumming up the needle. Some adhesives are not meant to be sewn through.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome 4120QDC)
- Satin Stitch foot (optional – but helpful for ribbon stitching; it’s what we used)
- Clear View Quilting Foot and Guide Set (optional – another choice to keep your ribbon stitching precise)
- Quarter Inch Seam foot (also optional, but we found it helpful for some of the narrow seaming)
Fabric and Other Supplies
- To make our “ribbon fabric” we used a beautiful selection from Renaissance Ribbons’ new collection by Parson Gray. The yardage shown is enough to allow proper fussy cutting.
11 yards of ⅝” wide ribbon; we used Gray Bombay by Parson Gray
- Since we were already in love with the Parson Gray ribbon, we also used two fabrics from the new Parson Gray World Tour collection by David Butler. One is a wonderful heavy-gauge utility canvas, the other a rich quilting and fashion cotton.
1 yard of heavyweight, wide-width (54″+) fabric for the bag exterior, strap backing, and lining pocket; we used 58″ Canvas Dublin in Resin from the World Tour collection from Parson Gray
½ yard of standard weight fabric for the bag lining; we used 100% cotton Mantova in Eclipse from the World Tour collection from Parson Gray
- 1½ yard of 45″ wide medium-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 809 Décor Bond®
- ½ yard of 45″+ wide fusible fleece; we used 45″ Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
- ONE large and thick button; we used a 1¼” faux wooden button
- TWO 2″ D-rings
- All purpose thread to match both fabric and ribbon
- Invisible thread; optional but helpful for final strap stitching
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Iron and ironing board
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Tape measure
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Straight pins
- Hand sewing needle
NOTE: All our cuts are determined based on our selected ribbon. If you choose a ribbon of a different width, you will need to measure each of your ribbon stacks to insure the height and width of your fabric cuts. Your interfacing strip cuts would also be different with a different width of ribbon.
- From the Gray Bombay by Parson Gray ribbon, cut the following lengths, staggering the motif similar to how you would offset rows of tiles (see the photos below within the instructions as well as the finished sample photos above):
THREE 54″ lengths, staggering the motif
THREE 21″ lengths, staggering the motif
EIGHT 15″ lengths, staggering the motif
ONE 12½” length
ONE 8″ length
- From the fabric for the exterior (Canvas Dublin in our sample), cut the following:
TWO 15″ wide x 17″ high rectangles for the bag front and back panels
ONE 12½” wide x 8″ high rectangle for the exterior pocket, fussy cut to match the bag panel
ONE 8″ wide x 7″ high rectangle for the lining pocket
ONE 3″ x 21″ strip for the back strap
ONE 3″ x 54″ strip for the front strap
- From the fabric for the lining (Cotton Mantova in our sample), cut the following:
TWO 15″ wide x 17″ high rectangles
ONE 1¾” x 15″ strip for the tie
- From the fusible interfacing, cut the following:
ONE 1⅝” x 21″ strip for the back strap
ONE 1⅝” x 54″ strip for the front strap
TWO 2⅜” x 15″ strips for the front and back accents
- From the fusible fleece, cut TWO 15″ x 17″ rectangles.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
Top ribbon accent bands
- Find the two 2⅜” x 15″ strips of interfacing and the eight 15″ lengths of ribbon. Separate into two sets; each set should have one strip of interfacing and four lengths of ribbon.
- Place and interfacing strip fusing side up on your work surface. You will build a stack of four ribbons. The outer edge of the top and bottom ribbons should extend beyond the interfacing strip by about ⅛”. All other edges will be butted together. The photo below shows how we have staggered the ribbons as described above in the cutting notes.
- Starting with the top ribbon, pin in place. Edgestitch this ribbon in place along its bottom edge only. The top edge that extends beyond the interfacing is not stitched at this time; it will be stitched in place on the bag.
NOTE: Although we often use and recommend invisible thread for ribbon stitching, for this project we are using black thread to match the ribbon in both the top and the bottom. Because we are using a single ribbon, it was easier to get an exact color match. We do specify invisible ribbon for a topstitching step below, but all the main ribbon stitching was done with regular thread. In addition, what looks like stitching along the very edge of the ribbon (as viewed from the back in the photo below) is part of the weave of the ribbon.
- Butt the next ribbon into place below the top ribbon. Remember to stagger the motif. Edgestitch along both sides of this ribbon.
- Butt the third ribbon into place below the second ribbon. The motifs of this third ribbon should be aligned with the motifs on the first ribbon, which means they’ll be staggered with the second ribbon. That sounds confusing, but if you think about it like rows of tile, it will all make sense. Edgestitch along both sides of the third ribbon.
- Finally, butt the bottom ribbon into place. If you’ve been following along with our tile analogy, you know that the motifs on this ribbon should be aligned with the second ribbon. Edgestitch along just the top of this ribbon. As with your first ribbon, this last ribbon will have one free edge that extends beyond the interfacing. The photo below shows the stitching from the back, which is a bit easier to see than the black-on-black from the front (but that’s the idea, right?!).
- When all the stitching is complete, press the ribbons to activate the fusing. You now have a piece of finished “ribbon fabric.”
- Repeat to create the back accent band.
- Find the front and back exterior panels.
- Place an accent band horizontally across the top of each piece ⅝” down from the top raw edge. Pin in place.
- Edgestitch each accent band in place along the top and bottom edges; the edges that were left unstitched during the steps above.
- Find the 12½” x 8″ exterior pocket panel. Place it right side up on your work surface. Fold down the top raw edge ½”. Yes, this means the wrong side of the fabric is showing. Pin in place.
NOTE: The substantial canvas fabric does not require a lining for the pockets, but we still want a clean folded edge top and bottom. By folding the fabric to the front and hiding its raw edge with the ribbon, we create that clean folded edge with just one layer of fabric.
- Find the 12½” length of ribbon. Place it across the pocket, aligning the top of the ribbon with the very top folded edge of the pocket. The width of the ribbon will conceal the raw edge of the fabric. Pin in place.
- Edgestitch the ribbon in place along both sides
- Along the bottom edge of the pocket, make a standard ¼” double turn hem. To do this, fold back the raw edge ¼” and press, then fold another ¼” and press again.
NOTE: With a narrow hem like this, you can also fold back the raw edge ½” and press and then turn the raw edge down into the crease and press again. The result is the same, but the second way can be easier for some as working with a wider width often saves a burned finger or two.
- Find the front exterior panel. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
- Place the pocket on the panel. The left edge of the pocket should be flush with the left raw edge of the panel. The bottom hemmed edge of the pocket should be 2″ up from the bottom raw edge of the panel. Pin in place.
- Measure 5½” in from the left raw edges and draw a vertical line, using a fabric pen or pencil. This is the pocket dividing line.
- Edgestitch along the bottom of the pocket. Run a second line of stitching approximately ⅛” from the first.
- Create the same double line of stitching along the drawn pocket dividing line. Do not run the pocket stitching lines over the ribbon at the top of the pocket. Stop the seams at the bottom edge of the pocket.
NOTE: You could also use a twin needle for this double stitching.
- We created “ribbon fabric” for the bag straps in the same manner as for the accent band, but with three lengths of ribbon rather than four.
- Collect the lengths of ribbon, canvas and interfacing into two sets. One set for the 54″ front strap and one set for the 21″ back strap. As above, your ribbon motifs should be staggered.
- Because these lengths are much longer than the accent band, it is easier to do the center ribbon first then the outer ribbons.
- We started with the 21″ back strap. Remember the interfacing is fusing side up. Place the center ribbon down the exact center of the interfacing. Pin in place, then edgestitch in place along both sides.
- Butt an outer ribbon into place and pin. As above, the ribbon will extend beyond the interfacing.
- Edgestitch this ribbon in place along only the inner edge. The outer edge is free as it was with the accent band.
- Repeat to attach the third ribbon. Again, edgestitch it in place along the inner edge only.
- Press the “ribbon fabric” to activate the fusing.
- Press in each long side of the canvas strip ½”.
- Place the canvas strip and the ribbon strip wrong sides together, centering the ribbon on the canvas so there is approximately 1/16″ of canvas showing to either side of the ribbon strip.
- Edgestitch the layers together along the two long sides, which also secures the two free edges of the ribbon.
- Create the 54″ front strap in the same manner except you will finish one end. To do this, fold back one end of the canvas ½”. And, fold back the aligning end of the ribbon ½”.
- Pin together so the folds are flush.
- Then, edgestitch along both long sides and across the folded end, pivoting at the corners. The opposite end remains raw.
Attach the straps to the bag
- Find the exterior back panel (the panel without the pocket). Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
- Find the 21″ strap. Place it 2½” in from the right side of the panel, ribbon side up. The bottom raw edge of the strap should be flush with the bottom raw edge of the panel. The top will extend beyond the panel. Pin in place.
- Re-thread with invisible thread in the top and bobbin. This will provide the best look as there is one line of stitching across the ribbons for each strap. The stitching will disappear against the canvas edges and will be barely visible for these horizontal seams across the ribbons.
- Your edgestitching should run within the rim of canvas the extends beyond the ribbon.
- Go up one side. Stop at the base of the accent band. Pivot. Stitch straight across the ribbons. Stop at the rim of canvas on the opposite side. Pivot. Edgestitch down the opposite side to the bottom.
- Find the exterior front panel. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
- Find the 54″ strap. Place it 2½” in from the right side of the panel, ribbon side up. The bottom raw edge of the strap should be flush with the bottom raw edge of the panel. The top, with its finished end, will extend way beyond the panel. The left side of the strap will cross over the pocket concealing its raw edge. Pin in place.
- Edgestitch in place in the same manner as the back strap.
Sew front to back
- Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together, aligning all the raw edges. Be especially careful to align the top accent bands along the sides. The two straps should be on opposite sides of one another. Pin in place along the sides and across the bottom.
- Re-thread with thread to match the canvas in the top and bobbin.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.
- Clip the corners, press the seam open, and turn right side out.
- Using a blunt end tool, like a chopstick or knitting needle, gently push out the corners so they are nice and square.
- The bottom ends of both straps are now nicely contained in the bottom seam of the bag.
- Find the 1¾” x 15” strip of lining fabric.
- Press the strip in half lengthwise, fold in each edge towards the center crease, then fold together to make the finished skinny tie.
- Edgestitch the length of the tie.
- Cut the 15″ strip into two lengths: one at 7″ and one at 8″. Tie a knot in one end of each length and trim close to the knot. We did not finish the ends of the ties since the tie was so skinny. You could dab some seam sealant, like a Fray Check on the ends to prevent raveling.
- Find the exterior bag. On the back panel, measure and mark the center along the top accent band. Pin the raw ends of both ties at this point. The ties should be side by side with no gap in between. The raw ends of the ties should extend 1″ below the raw edge of the panel. The knotted ends of the ties are extending out and away from the bag.
- Machine or hand baste the ties in place.
- Find the two lining panels and the fusible fleece panels. Following manufacturers instructions, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the fabric.
- Find the pocket panel and the 8″ length of ribbon. This pocket is made in the same manner as the exterior pocket except both the sides and the bottom of the lining pocket have a ¼” double turn hem.
- First attach the ribbon to the folded-forward pocket top and edgestitch in place along both sides of the ribbon.
- Hem both sides and the bottom, using a faux miter in both corners to keep the pocket flat.
NOTE: If you are new to narrow hems and clean corners, we have a great step-by-step tutorial.
- Find one of the fused lining panels. Place the finished pocket on the panel. It should be centered side to side and the top of the pocket should be 4½” down from the top raw edge of the lining panel. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
- Stitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners We used a double line of stitching to match the double stitching on the bag exterior.
- Place the two lining panels right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Leave an approximate 6″ opening along the bottom for turning.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. Lock your seam on either side of the 6″ bottom opening. Clip the corners.
Secure the back strap through the D-rings
- Find the two D-rings. Slip the raw end of the back strap through both D-rings from front to back.
- Let the D-rings fall back against the stitched part of the strap so you can work with the raw end. Pin the raw end of the strap to the top raw edge of the back panel. The raw edges should be flush. Make sure the strap remains straight. You are pinning the canvas side of the strap against the right side of the back panel.
Stitch together the lining and the exterior
- Find the exterior bag. It should be right side out.
- Find the lining bag. It should be wrong side out.
- Slip the exterior bag inside the lining bag so the two bags are now right sides together. Align all the seams and the bottom corners. Make sure the straps are folded down out of the way of the top seam along with that D-ring tab you just made and the loop closure ties.
- Pin around the entire top of the bag.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around the entire top of the bag. Press the seam allowance open.
- Turn the bag right side out through the opening you left in the bottom of the lining.
- Press the lining down into place, smoothing the exterior. Pull the strap, the strap tab and the loop closure ties out into position. Press flat around the top of the bag. There should be an ⅛” reveal of canvas showing beyond the ribbon accent band all around the top of the bag.
- Topstitch through all the layers around the top of the bag within the ⅛” canvas reveal.
- The D-ring tab should be pulled up into place and your topstitching seam should run across it. This will give that tab some extra security against the weight of the D-rings. Do NOT stitch across the longer front strap. It should be pulled out of the way of this final topstitching seam.
- Pull out the bottom of the lining. You can either edgestitch the opening closed or hand stitch it closed. We chose to hand stitch closed.
Button and loop
- Mark the center front of the bag directly opposite the loop closure ties.
- Stitch the large button in place. You need to double up your thread to not only securely attach the button, but to give the button stitching the right heft. Check out our tutorial on speedy button sewing for a thick look.
- Pull the two skinny ties away from the bag. Place them side by side and make sure they are laying flat. Measure approximately 3″ down from the top of the bag and pin the ties at this point.
- Keeping the ties side by side, not overlapped, stitch across both ties at the 3″ point. This turns the ties into a handy loop for the button.
- Place the end of the long strap through the D-rings, making sure to not twist the strap, the ribbon side should always be facing out.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Debbie Guild