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This is a technique we’ve used in several tutorials, and it’s been so popular, we thought it should be its very own project so you can refer to it whenever you need it. It’s a great way to finish the edge of a blanket, a table runner, a wall hanging – just about any flat square or rectangle. Admit it … you rubbed that satin blanket binding on your cheek and sucked your thumb, didn’t you? Oh, wait, that was me. The technique takes a little practice, because you have to make sure you are catching both sides of the binding as you stitch. But I have great confidence in you, and I know you’ll be binding everything in site in no time.

Click to Enlarge

This is a technique we’ve used in several tutorials, and it’s been so popular, we thought it should be its very own project so you can refer to it whenever you need it. It’s a great way to finish the edge of a blanket, a table runner, a wall hanging – just about any flat square or rectangle. Admit it … you rubbed that satin blanket binding on your cheek and sucked your thumb, didn’t you? Oh, wait, that was me. The technique takes a little practice, because you have to make sure you are catching both sides of the binding as you stitch. But I have great confidence in you, and I know you’ll be binding everything in site in no time.

    1. Seam together your bias tape or blanket binding tape to create a length that will go completely around your project with about 1″ – 2″ extra. For example, if you’re making a baby blanket that is 34″ x 34″, you would need approximately 138″.
    2. Starting in the middle of one side of your project, unfold your tape and slip it over the the raw, edge stitched seam. Work from the right side. Be very careful that your middle fold is right on edge and your binding is even on both sides. Pin from your starting point to the first corner.
      Diagram
    3. Bring your project to your machine, and starting in the middle (where you started pinning), stitch the binding to the project, staying as close to the edge of the binding as you can. This is where that practice comes in; make sure you are catching both sides of the binding equally.
      Diagram
    4. Sew to the corner and stop. Back-tack to lock your seam.
    5. Remove the project from under the needle and clip your threads, but do not cut your binding.
      Diagram
    6. Fold a pleat in the corner to make a 45˚ angle. Pin. Encase the new side’s raw edge with the binding, working your way to the next corner. Press and pin in place.
      Diagram
    7. Return to your machine, and matching your first line of stitching, edgestitch around the corner and down the side to the next corner. Stop at the corner and back-tack.
      NOTE: By “around the corner” I mean you should drop your needle in at the end of your original line of stitching, stitch into the corner, pivot, and then stitch down the new edge. This way, your line of stitching around each corner will appear uninterrupted.

Diagram

  1. Repeat these same steps at each corner.
  2. When you return to your starting point, tuck under the raw edge of the binding, match bottom edges and match your stitching line to finish. Press.
    Diagram
  3. If you want super flat and secure corners and ending overlap, you can slip stitch the corner folds and the tucked fold where the binding ends.

    Hints and Tips

    If you prefer to make real mitered corners, Starting in the middle of one side, attach your binding, mitering all four corners and making a simple folded edge finish where your ends meet. For more details, link to our tutorial, Bias Tape: How To Make It & Attach It.

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