Everyone needs a tissue now and then to dab away a tear, capture a sneeze or wipe up a mess. And in the colder weather, it’s always good to have tissues at-the-ready when you’re out and about. Pretty-up those handy tissues with our adorable tissue covers. The S4H Fast Fridays series is all about whipping up something wonderful in no time at all, and you can put together several covers in a single afternoon with just small squares of fabric. Do you hear your scrap basket calling?
For each of our three samples, we used two 10″ x 10″ Layer Cake squares. You need just a 6½” square of each fabric (exterior and lining). Use up leftovers or buy a couple new quarter yard cuts. You can easily cut six panels from each quarter yard.
Mix and match your fabric, binding, and decorative stitching to create a variety of covers, each one unique and personalized for its recipient.
Different fabric and notions can completely change the look of a project. For each of the three samples shown below, we used two 10″ x 10″ Layer Cake squares from a holiday-themed fabric collection. They’d make a great mini gift or stocking stuffer.
Make one or make a bundle. In true Fast Fridays fashion, they are super quick and easy to create. Collect your favorite cuts and set up a tissue cover assembly line. It’s fun to fussy cut the fabric to create a mirror image motif to either side of the center opening, as we did with our “tree” fabric.
We recommend using a packaged narrow bias binding, but you could certainly make your own binding or substitute a ribbon. The key is to stick with a narrow reveal. If the binding is much more than ¼” it will look clunky against the petite cover and will overwhelm the beauty of the fabric.
Decorative stitching in a bold, contrasting thread adds a beautiful touch along either side of the opening. And the optional thumb loop makes the tissues easy to pull out from a bag or brief.
Each cover finishes at approximately 5¼” x 3¼” – a perfect fit for standard travel size tissue packs.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Sewing machine and standard presser foot
- Open Toe Satin Stitch foot or your favorite option for decorative stitching
Fabric and Other Supplies
- Scrap, layer cake precut, or ¼ yard of 44”+ wide quilting weight cotton for the exterior
- Scrap, layer cake precut, or ¼ yard of 44”+ wide quilting weight cotton for the lining
- ½ yard of narrow (¼”) double fold bias tape to coordinate with the exterior fabric
NOTE: We recommend a light color for the binding so the decorative stitching will pop.
- ½ yard of ½” wide twill tape or similar for the finger loop; optional
- Scrap or ¼ yard of 20″+ wide lightweight fusible interfacing; we like Pellon ShapeFlex
- All purpose thread to match fabric
- All purpose thread in a contrasting color for the optional decorative stitching on the binding
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Iron and ironing board
- Straight pins
- Cut ONE 6½” x 6½ square from the exterior fabric, the lining, and the lightweight interfacing.
NOTE: We layered our exterior and lining fabrics and cut both squares at once.
- Cut TWO 7½” lengths of bias binding.
- Cut ONE 4″ length of twill tape.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the exterior fabric panel. The raw edges of both layers should be flush.
- Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
- Place the lining square right side down on your work surface. Place the fused exterior fabric on top of it, right side up. In other words, the two layers are wrong sides together.
NOTE: If working with directional fabrics, make sure the layers are both running the same direction.
- Orient the layers on your work surface so the SIDES of the motif are actually to the left and right as you are looking at the square. If your print is not directional, simply pick an orientation to designate the sides. Pin together at the corners.
- Machine baste the layers together, staying as close to the raw edges as possible. This basting needs to be able to be covered by the narrow bias binding, which is just ¼”.
- Find the two 7½” lengths of bias binding.
- Slip the bias binding over each layered side edge of the basted panel. Pin in place. There will be ½” of binding extending beyond the fabric top and bottom.
- Pin the binding in place.
- Select a decorative stitch. Test first on a scrap of the bias binding to correctly set the width and length of the stitch.
- Re-thread the machine with contrasting thread in the top and bobbin. Attach a Satin Stitch foot or similar.
- Stitch the bias binding in place along each side, using the decorative stitch.
NOTE: For the most consistent decorative stitch across this short length, we recommend using your start/stop button, if you have this feature on your machine. It will create the most even feeding, and therefore, the most even stitch formation.
- Find the 4″ length of twill tape.
- With the exterior panel still facing up, find the exact center along the top of the layers. Mark this point with a pin.
- Fold the tape in half and pin it at the center point. The raw ends of the tape should be flush with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin in place.
NOTE: For extra security, you can machine baste the twill tape in place, staying within the ½” seam allowance.
- Once again place the exterior panel right side up of your work surface. Fold in each bound edge so they meet in the center. Pin in place along both ends, sandwiching the twill tape loop between the layers.
- Re-thread the machine with thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin and re-set for a standard straight stitch. Switch back to your standard presser foot if necessary.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across each end.
- Trim back the seam allowance to about ¼” and clip the corners.
- If your fabric is one that you feel might easily fray or ravel, consider sealing the edges of the both seam allowances with Fray Check or similar.
- Turn the cover right side out and press well.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild