The front of a decorator pillow is like a blank slate for creativity. We took that inspiration and ran with it for our long lumbar pillow featuring a center panel of unique twisted strips. Solid color fronts flip to show pretty prints behind.

The technique is a cousin of pleating, but with more layering and turning than folding. We include detailed steps and photos below to take you through the process. And, there is a set of free downloadable patterns for all the strips to make sure you can get precise cuts of all the pieces. That said, they are all simple rectangles, so the paper patterns are optional – just remember to keep your cuts even and true throughout.

In fact, precision is really the name of the game with this project, and is why we are always so happy to be a Janome exclusive studio. Their machines have smooth feeding systems, powerful needle penetration, and intuitive settings. Everything works together flawlessly so you don’t have to worry about operation, instead putting your focus and concentration into your project. We call it “frustration free” sewing. With everything there is to juggle in life day-in-and-day-out, don’t we all need less frustration?! Thanks, Janome.

You’ll notice we detail quite a few presser feet in the supply list below. Many of these are optional, but as we often say, “Use the right presser foot for the job!” Don’t be afraid to open up that little plastic bag of feet that came with your machine; it contains helpful tools that can make everything easier and more precise. Plus, there are other specialty feet you can add into the mix.

We used and recommend a linen blend for the main solid color fabric. It’s the juxtaposition of the colorful prints against the solid color that really makes the twisted strips stand out. We used Jelly Roll strips, and when choosing these pretty prints, you want to pay attention to color, motif size, and motif style. Aim for a pleasing combination of each without repeating the same colors, sizes or styles side by side. For more information about how to best mix and match, check out our tutorial: Top 10 Designer Tips for Blending Colors and Prints.

The back of the pillow has a classic button overlap closure. See how to add a piping highlight along the edge of the overlap panel as well as how to get the flattest finish to your inner edges and how to adjust the ends of the piping so they blend smoothly into the perimeter seam.

A shaped and embellished pillow like this is a great way to add interest into a standard pile of pillows. Even with all its creative twists and turns, this is an easy project to complete. Take the time to read through the steps once or twice to, as we call it, “Making it in your head.” It’s like reviewing a road map before a car trip.

Our thanks again to Janome America for their support of this project and many of our other most popular projects. To find out more about the amazing Janome machines, visit their website, follow them on social media, and – best of all – visit a local dealer for an in-person test stitch.

Our Twisted Strips Decorator Pillow finishes at 26” x 12”. Should you wish to increase or decrease the width of your pillow, it’s easy. Start with the width of your own pillow form, then evenly reduce the widths of each of the panels to equal the new dimension.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• Automatic Buttonhole foot; best for getting the precise size of buttonhole for your button
• Button Sewing foot; optional for the back closure buttons
• Quarter Inch Seam foot; optional, but best for maintaining accurate seams within the twisted strips panel
• Bi-Level foot; optional – a Janome specialty presser foot that is excellent for precise topstitching along a folded edge – we used it for the topstitching to either side of our center twisted strips panel
• Zipper foot; for making and attaching the piping

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1 yard of 44”+ linen blend or similar; we used Brussels Washer Linen Blend by Robert Kaufman Fabrics in Mist
• 25 Jelly Roll Strips; we used jelly roll strips from the Country Rose collection by Lella Boutique for Moda
  NOTE: Jelly Roll strips make the process easier, but you can cut your own pretty print strips using our patterns.
• ¾ yard of 45”+ lightweight fusible fleece; we used Pellon Thermolam one-sided fusible fleece
• Scrap or ⅛ yard of lightweight fusible interfacing – you need just one 2” x 12” piece; we used Pellon Shape-Flex
• ½” yard of 3/16” piping cord
• TWO 1” buttons for the back closure
• ONE 26” x 12” pillow form; we suggest a down or down alternative form for a softer/flatter finish – we also removed quite a bit of the filler from our down alternative form to achieve an even flatter finish — you don’t want the center twisted strips panel to be “puffy.”
• All-purpose thread to match fabric
• Bobbin thread; we used white
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors
• Rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins

Getting Started and Pattern Download

1. Download and print out our pattern sheet PDF, which includes all four strip pattern pieces.
   
   IMPORTANT: This page is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on the page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale. Print horizontally (landscape).
2. Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line.
3. From the main fabric (Mist linen in our sample), cut the following:
   TWO 27” wide x 4½ “ high rectangles for the top and bottom front panels
   ONE 24” wide x 13” high rectangle for the back underlap panel
   ONE 5½” wide x 13” high rectangle for the back overlap panel
   ONE 2½” wide x 13” high rectangle for the back overlap panel’s facing
   
4. From the fabric for the piping, cut ONE 1¾” x 13” strip.
   NOTE: We chose one of our Jelly Roll strips (the pink gingham) for our piping. Since each Jelly Roll strip is 44” in length there was plenty use for both a front twisted strip and the piping. If using a Jelly Roll strip, cut the strip to 13” then simply trim this 2½” strip down to 1¾”.
5. From the lightweight fusible interfacing, cut ONE 2” x 12” rectangle for the back overlap facing.
6. From the lightweight fusible fleece, cut the following:
   ONE 26” x 12” rectangle for the main front panel
   ONE 23” x 12” rectangle for the back underlap panel
   ONE 4½” x 12” rectangle for the back button overlap panel
7. Cut the piping cord into ONE 13” length.

Cutting the elements of the twisted strips panel

As mentioned in the introduction, when choosing your pretty prints, pay attention to color, motif size, and motif style. You want to aim for a pleasing combination of each without repeating the same colors, sizes or styles side by side. For more information about how to best mix and match, check out our tutorial: Top 10 Designer Tips for Blending Colors and Prints.

We have provided downloadable patterns for the twisted strips, the spacer strips, and the right and left end panel strips. This makes sure your cuts will be precise. That said, these are all straight cuts, and you can certainly opt to cut all the strips without using the patterns. In either case, we recommend first cutting your linen fabric into 5½” strips, and then doing the vertical sub-cuts from those strips.

1. CUT 25 linen twisted strips at 1¼” x 5½”.
2. CUT 25 quilting cotton twisted strips at 1¼” x 5½”.
   NOTE: If using Jelly Roll Strips, they are always pre-cut at 2½” in width. First trim off the selvedge from the end, then cut each strip down to 5½”, and then slice each 5½” strip down the middle to yield the 1¼” width. Put the excess into your scrap stash or use it to make a pillow for a friend.
   
3. CUT 24 linen spacer strips at 1½” x 5½”.
4. CUT 2 end panel strips at 2” x 5½”
   NOTE: These end strips are slightly wider because their inner seam is ¼” but their outer seam is ½”. You can see this reflected on the downloadable pattern pieces.
5. As shown in the photos above and below, it’s helpful to label and stack all your elements to keep track of everything. Because you are working with a solid color, everything can start to look the same if you’re not careful.
   

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Create the twisted strip pieces

1. Collect your stacks of 1¼” cotton strips and the 1¼” linen strips.
   
2. Take the stacks to your sewing machine. If you have an extension table (as shown in our Janome Horizon image below), now is a good time to use its so you can keep everything close at hand.
3. Thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin thread in the bobbin. If possible, attach a Quarter Inch Seam foot. If you have the functionality on your machine, as we do on our Janome studio machines, also adjust your stitch settings for a true ¼” seam.
4. Place one cotton strip right sides together with one linen strip, aligning all the raw edges.
5. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch ONE side of the strip from top to bottom.
   
6. Repeat for all 25 pairs. To speed up the process, you can opt to “chain stitch” the pairs. This is a quilting technique that allows you to feed the pairs across the needle plate one right after the other without stopping in between. In the photo below, you can see a sewn strip coming out the back, a strip in the process of being sewn, and a pair being readied to layer and send in.
   
   
7. Once done and pressed, you simply clip the threads between the pairs. No need to worry about the seam coming apart as it will soon be secured, top and bottom, into other seams. Check out our Quilting Basics tutorial for more about chain piecing.
   
8. For our twisted strips technique, both the precision of the stitching and the pressing is important as you want sharp, straight edges for every strip. To achieve this, we suggest a three-step pressing method for each sewn strip. First, with right sides together, press the strip flat.
   
9. Second, open out the strip right side up and press again, pressing the seam allowance toward the linen half.
   
10. Third, fold the strip along the seam, still right side out. Align the raw edges, and press firmly.
    
11. If you chain stitched, snip apart the strips.
12. When complete, lay out the strips print side up to determine the sequence. As mentioned above, pay attention to color, motif size, and motif style. You want to aim for a pleasing combination of each without repeating the same colors, sizes or styles side by side. For more information about how to best mix and match, check out our tutorial: Top 10 Designer Tips for Blending Colors and Prints.
    
13. Very carefully stack the strips into the correct order.
    

Stitch the strips into the main center panel

1. Collect the twenty-five sewn twisted strips, the twenty-four 1½” spacer strips, and the two 2” end strips. We again brought all the elements to our Janome extension table to more efficiently keep track of everything.
   
2. Your machine should still be set up for a ¼” seam allowance with a Quarter Inch Seam foot and with thread to match your fabric in the top and bobbin thread in the bobbin.
3. We recommend moving left to right across the center panel. Find one of the 2” end strips. It should be the Left end strip. Place it right side up. Place your first sewn twisted strip, print side up, on top of thiss end strip, aligning the raw edges of the twisted strip with the inner raw edge of the end strip.
   
4. Place a 1½” spacer strip right side down on top of the twisted strip, again aligning the raw edges.
   
5. Using a ¼” seam allowance stitch from top to bottom through all the layers. Open out the spacer strip to the right.
   
6. Place the next sewn twisted strip, again print side up, onto the opened-out spacer strip. Align the raw edges.
   
7. Layer another spacer strip on top, right side down. Still keeping those raw edges aligned, stitch a ¼” seam allowance through all the layers.
   
8. Continue in this manner: opening out, layering, and stitching to build your center panel.
   
9. At the very end, you should be out of spacer strips and will instead layer the remaining 2” end strip (the Right end strip) over the final sewn twisted strip.
   

Press – stitch – twist – press – stitch – trim – stabilize

1. With your center panel sewn, press it well. At this point, all your print strips are facing up. Press, press, press; you want your panel nice and flat!
   
2. Replace the Quarter Inch Seam foot with a standard presser foot. If you used your machine’s special ¼” stitch setting, re-set now for a standard straight stitch. The machine should still be threaded with bobbin thread in the bobbin and thread to match the linen in the top.
3. Staying within the ½” seam allowance, sew along the top edge to secure the strips in their print-side-up position.
   NOTE: At this point, unless you are working with directional prints, there is no hard-and-fast top and bottom of the center panel, simply choose your favorite to be the top and forge ahead.
   
4. At your ironing board, flip and press the bottom end of the strips in the opposite direction.
   
5. Here’s another view. You’re not pressing all the way up to the top of each strip; just press along the bottom. You need just enough to create the “flip.”
   
6. Reach underneath to make sure the seam allowances are flipping as well. As the strip flips forward, its seam allowance should flip backwards.
   
7. You can also steam the seam allowances from the back to help “convince” them to stay in place.
   
8. When done flipping and pressing, as you did along the top of the center panel, staying within the ½” seam allowance, sew along the bottom edge to secure the strips in their flipped position.
   
9. As you remember, the two end panels were cut at 2”. This was to take into account that all this stitching and turning invariably messes with the final dimension of a panel. By cutting the end panels a bit wider, you now have the ability to trim things down to the final 27” length. Measure your finished center panel and trim an equal amount from each end as necessary to achieve that 27” width. It will likely be just a small slice from each end.
   

Attach the top and bottom front panels

1. Find the 27” x 4½” top and bottom front panels.
2. Place a panel right sides together along one edge of the center panel. Pin in place.
   
3. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across through all the layers.
4. Press the panel away from the center, pressing the seam allowance away as well.
   
5. Repeat with the second panel.
   
6. Topstitch along each seam, securing the seam allowance in position and helping to flatten the panel. We used the amazing Janome Bi-Level foot, which is precisely engineered to allow you to sew at a consistent width from a raised edge, such as the fold of a fabric or as we are doing here, from a seam line.
   

Apply the interfacing panels

1. We opted for a thin layer of fusible fleece on all the main panels. This gives a soft substance and just a bit of “loft” to the finished pillow cover. Follow our lead, or you could choose a lighter-weight interfacing, but use a woven fusible. A non-woven fusible would be too stiff and inflexible.
2. The back overlap panel’s facing is a standard lightweight fusible to help support the buttonholes.
3. Find all the interfacing panels and center one on each of the panels. There should ½” of fabric showing beyond the fusible fleece on all sides on all the three main panels. On the back overlap panel’s facing, place its 2” x 12” interfacing strip so there is ½” showing top, bottom, and along one 13” side; along the opposite 13” side, the interfacing and fabric panel should be flush. Following manufacturer’s instructions fuse in place.
   

Create the piping and complete the back overlap panel

1. Find the 1¾” x 13” piping strip and the 13” of piping cord.
2. Firmly wrap the fabric around the cord, right side facing out. Match the raw edges of the fabric to create a lip or flange. Pin in place.
3. Attach a Zipper foot and thread the machine with thread to best match the piping fabric in the top and bobbin. We left our bobbin thread in the bobbin. Set for a slightly lengthened stitch.
4. Place the piping under the foot with the cording portion to the left of the needle, the flange portion to the right.
5. Baste the length of the strip. Your stitching should run as close to the cording as possible but not on the cording.
   
6. Find the 2½” x 13” overlap facing panel, which should already have its interfacing fused in place. Along the 13” edge where the interfacing is flush with the fabric, use an overcast, zig zag stitch or a serger to finish what will become the inner edge of the facing.
   NOTE: When working with quilting cotton, we would have traditionally used a simple hem for this finish, but with heavier substrates, in order to eliminate a “bump” showing through, a completely flat finish is best.
   
7. Find the 5½” x 13” back overlap panel. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
8. Place the piping along one 13” edge, aligning the raw edges of the piping’s flange with the raw edge of the fabric panel. Pin in place.
9. Still using a Zipper foot, baste the piping in place. Again, your stitching should run as close to the cording as possible but not on the cording.
   
   NOTE: One of our favorite tricks when working with piping that needs to disappear into a seam is to cut back the ends of the piping cord. To do this, use your seam ripper to open up just about ½” of the fabric at each end of the piping strip. Snip off the ends of the piping cord. Smooth the fabric back into position. Now, the ends of the piping that will insert into the perimeter seam of the pillow will be flat and blend beautifully into the seam.
10. Find the facing panel. Place it rights sides together with the main overlap panel, aligning the raw edge (not the finished edge) of the facing with the raw edge of the main panel and sandwiching the piping between the layers.
    
11. Re-set for a standard straight stitch. Still using a Zipper foot, stitch through all the layers close to the piping cord.
12. Open out the facing to reveal the piping.
    
13. Fold the facing around to the back so the piping is now the finished edge and the layers are wrong sides together.

Add the buttonholes and buttons

1. Our steps show placement for our 1” buttons. Your placement may vary slightly based on the buttons you select. No matter the size, start by finding the center of the back overlap panel. For our 13” panel, the center point is at 6½” from either side. Mark this point first, then mark evenly spaced points to the left and right of center. Ours were 2” to the left and 2” to the right.
2. We used the Janome Automatic Buttonhole foot. When set up correctly, this Janome foot will automatically choose the proper size for your buttonhole.
   
3. Re-thread the machine if necessary with the thread color that best matches the linen fabric.
   
4. Find the 24” x 13” back underlap panel. Finish one 13” raw edge in the same manner as you finished the overlap panel’s facing. This edge will become the panel’s inner edge.
5. Find the completed front panel. Place it wrong side up and flat on your work surface. You are simply using the front panel as a sizing template.
6. Place the back underlap panel right side down on top of the front panel. The top, bottom, and left raw edges of these two panels should be flush. The inner finished edge sits 3” short of the right edge of the front panel. Place the overlap panel into position so its top, bottom, and right edges are flush with the front panel.
   
7. With the overlap position confirmed, use your opened buttonholes to mark the position of the buttons on the underlap panel underneath. To do this, simply place a pin through the center of each buttonhole, inserting it into the underlap panel.
   
8. We used the Janome Button Sewing foot to attach our flat four-hole buttons. Of course, you can sew the buttons by hand. If sewing by hand, make sure your stitch pattern is exactly the same for each button.

Align the back panels and assemble front to back

1. Button the overlap and underlap back panels. The combined panels should now equal 27” in width. Find the front panel again. Turn it right side up.
   
2. Place the front and back panels right sides together and pin around the entire perimeter.
   
3. With the perimeter securely pinned, reach in and unbutton the back panels so you can turn the cover right side out through that opening when done.
   
4. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around the entire perimeter through all the layers. Remember to stop and sharply pivot at each corner.
5. When complete, clip each of the corners.
6. Turn right side out through the unbuttoned overlap. Reach in through the opening and gently push out each corner so it is as nice and sharp as possible. A long knitting needle, chopstick or point turner all work well for this.
7. Insert the pillow form through the opening, fluffing it out into the corners.
8. Button closed.

Some notes on stuffing

As mentioned in the supply list, this pillow will look best when flat rather than puffy. Many pillow forms these days tend to be on the “very puffy” side. If that is the case with your form, open up one of its seams and pull out the stuffing until you get a nicer “fluff level.” We removed nearly a third of our filler! As you remove filler, you want to pull it out mostly from the center. Leave enough filler along the edges and into the corners to allow these areas to hold their shape.

If you’re lucky, your form will have a zippered opening to make removal easier. If not, simply use a seam ripper to open a small section and then hand sew the opening closed prior to inserting into the pillow cover.

Some notes on final pressing

Towards the end of the construction, you are likely to mess up your beautiful twisted strips a bit. Not to worry, they will bounce back. We recommend re-pressing first without the pillow form, then again once the form has been inserted and the back closure is buttoned.

We all know linen loves to wrinkle, so if you’ve chosen it as your main fabric as we did, there will be pressing necessary. Just remember to keep your pressing along the top and bottom of the main center panel. You can “finger press” the center of the twisted strips, even pulling them up a bit to better reveal their twist.

Project Design: Anne Adams
Sample Creation: Kathy Andrews, What Sew Ever