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Bias Binding: Figuring Yardage, Cutting, Making, Attaching

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We were going to call this tutorial: Bias Binding: Basics & Beyond, however, we decided to forgo the clever alliteration and instead focus on the key words we hear whenever we receive questions about this very hot topic: "How do you figure out how much fabric you need?" "How do you cut all the strips?" "How do you sew all the strips together?" "How do you put it on your project so it looks smooth and pretty?" "Why is the sky blue?" We've posted about bias binding before, and even have an older tutorial on the subject. But, it was time to take a fresh look and collect all the scattered tips and information into one updated article. We'll address all four of the most common questions: yardage, cutting, making and attaching. You're on your own for the blue skies!

Depending on whom you talk to, the word bias can have varied meanings. The official definition of bias is: an oblique or diagonal line. If you have a passion for sewing like us, as soon as you hear bias, you think of 45°, angle-cut fabric pieces or strips. If you hear bias in combination with binding or tape, you immediately envision a beautiful edge finish or trim. If you didn’t think of either of these things, but instead thought about how you were denied a place on prom court because certain people had it out for you... well... it's time for a fresh look at bias. This tutorial is for you!

We’ll be explaining: how to calculate the amount of fabric you need, how to determine the square size needed for the width of strips you will be cutting, how to join strips, which foot to use on your sewing machine, and, as always, a few tips we’ve discovered along the way. First, let's discuss why you even need to use bias binding or tape.  

The main reason is because of the 45° angle cut, or bias cut. Cutting fabric on the bias makes it super pliable so it can curve into and around all kinds of shapes. For example, a woven fabric that characteristically has no stretch, will have stretch when it's cut on the bias. If you don’t believe us, grab a piece of woven fabric and pull it on the straight grain; then, pull it at an angle. The bias stretch makes it possible to go around corners and curves neatly and without bunching to create a professional finish. If you’ve only used straight grain binding up until now, once you try bias binding, you will be amazed at the difference!

Another reason we love bias binding is because it’s a very versatile trim and a fantastic way to finish the raw edge on just about anything. In home décor, you see it in various widths on quilts, blankets, pillows, curtains, table linens and more. It's used on garments around necklines, armholes, sleeve edges, etc. Basically, it’s the ideal technique to finish any raw edge, whether inside (also known as a Hong Kong finish) or along the outside edge of a sewn project. Not to mention, it's the foundation for making custom piping. 

Third, it’s easy on your budget. You can make enough binding from a yard of fabric to go around a queen size quilt with some to spare; that’s a lot of binding for the money when you think about it.

Fourth, bias cut binding is known to be stronger than straight grain binding, making it ideal for items that will be washed regularly, such as table linens; or used heavily, such as a bed quilt.

Finally, you can use whatever fabric you want (even scraps) to create a beautiful custom finish. Although it takes time to crunch the numbers for all the details, and takes more time to actually make the bias binding, it’s well worth it in the end. Just take a look at some of our previous tutorials where we took the time to make custom binding in the Sew4Home studio.

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Magnetic Locker Caddy with White Board & Pockets

Of course, you can buy ready-made bias tape, pre-folded and ready to go which we discussed in our tutorial Terrific Trims Take #2. In the Sew4Home studio, we usually end up making our own binding in order to get the perfect fabric combinations, but we’ve certainly used plenty of the pre-made kind too!

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Baby Gifts: Pretty Bird Snap-on Baby Bibs

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Scrap It: Pendleton Wool Eyeglass/Sunglass Case

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Determining length, width and yardage

Once you’ve made your fabric selection, you need to figure out how much of it you'll need. You’ll be happy to know there are easy formulas for determining this! But, first things first, you have to actually measure the item to which you plan to attach the bias binding.

Measure your project

Exactly where will you be attaching your beautiful bias binding? Measure the edge(s) of your project that will be bound. For example, if you plan to sew bias binding around a quilt that measures 36" x 36", you can simply use a tape measure to measure each side. Or, in this case, you can simply multiply 36" x 4, which equals 144". You'll need at least 144” of bias binding. We say "at least" because you have to consider turning the corners and finishing the ends. Therefore, it’s recommended you add 10" to 12" to your minimum measurement (you can add more if it makes you feel more comfortable, but don’t go too crazy; you’ll end up with more binding than you know what to do with). In our little example, the total length of bias binding we need is 144" + 12" = 156". 

Width of the strips

You now know the total inches you need, but before you start cutting random strips of fabric, you have to figure out how wide they need to be.  This is one of those areas where you have to make a decision based on what it is you’re making in combination with your own creative vision. Some items can have a wider binding; 3" would be a wide binding. Remember, width is traditionally considered to be what you "see" from the edge on one side – not the width of binding from front to back where it wraps around the raw edge. Other projects call for a narrow binding: ½" is a pretty narrow binding. For our quilt example, we’ve decided we want to "see" a ½" binding. But, before you can figure out the cut width of the bias strips, you have to think about the what type of bias binding you're going to use: single fold or double fold. Let’s take a moment to look at the differences and the math (yay! math!!)

Single fold vs. double fold

If you’ve seen single fold bias binding and double fold bias binding, you may be under the impression that the only difference between these two is how the strip of fabric is pressed. Well, it’s a little more than that.

Single fold bias binding (shown on the left above) is ideal for projects that will not be seeing a lot of use, such as a wallhanging. It takes less fabric to make, and is easier to handle under the needle since it’s only one layer of fabric. To determine the width of single fold bias binding, multiply the determined width (½" in our example) by 4. So, ½" x 4 = 2".

NOTE: Some quilters choose to subtract ⅛" from their final cut width measurement to allow for the gap between the raw edges of the binding when it’s pressed. We’ll leave it up to you to decide if you want to subtract this from your strip width.

Double fold bias binding (shown on the right above) is perfect for items that will be washed or worn often. It’s stronger because it’s a double layer of fabric. You can probably guess it also requires more fabric. 

To figure width for a double fold, start with the seam allowance ( we are using ½" . This must be doubled because the fabric in folded in half (we're now at 1" in our sample). Then, take the finished reveal you've chosen (½" in our sample) and multiply that by four. So the entire story problem for our sample is: 1" + (½" x 4) = 3".

For the continuation of our mythical quilt example, we’re going to use ½" single fold bias binding. 

Fabric Yardage

Luckily, the quilting community has come up with a handy formula to make it easy to figure out how much fabric to buy. Deep breath... this may bring back some bad memories from 4th grade math class.

NOTE: If you're a S4H regular, you may notice, in previous tutorials, we’ve provided you with other approaches to figuring out how much yardage to buy. As with most techniques in sewing, there’s always more than one way to do things. You really have to try each one to find what works best for you We always do a lot of research on our subjects, then combine this with our own sewing experience, in order to provide you with what we feel is the best information. For this tutorial, we decided to share yet another way of calculating fabric yardage.

Quilters refer to this as the "Magical Math Formula!" Here we go…

Multiply the total inches of bias binding you need by the determined cut width. For us, that means 156” x 2” = 312”.

Use a calculator to determine the square root (there are also square root tables online). The square root of 312 is 17.66352. Round up to the next whole number: 18.

This tells us we need to start with an 18" x 18" square in order to cut enough bias strips to go around our 36” x 36” quilt.

Add an additional 2” to 3” for seaming the strips. 18" + 3" = 21". We need a 21" x 21" square of fabric.

NOTE: You can use a rectangle to make bias binding, but we like to use a square because it keeps things nice and simple, and we know Sew4Home visitors like it simple!

Divide 21" by 36" (the inches in a yard) to figure out the total yards needed. 21 ÷ 36 = 0.5833 yards, just a bit more than a ½ yard. The next common cut measurement is ¾ of a yard, which is 27". If you want to be more precise, some retailers will allow eighth cuts. In this case, ⅝ yard is 22½" - just enough.  

If calculating yardage on your own seems overwhelming, there are charts available online (search "calculate bias binding"), in books, and as laminated cards. These helpful cheat-sheets quickly tell you how much yardage you need to make bias binding of various widths and lengths. Since our quilt example is on the small side, we do not need more than 1 yard of fabric. Most likely, the majority of projects you make will require ½ to 1 yard of fabric for the bias strips. Of course, if you’re following a pattern, you should be provided with the size, type, and length required.

NOTE: We recommend keeping a pocket size reference chart of formulas handy near your computer and/or in your purse. You never know when you'll need to buy fabric on the fly. 

Before we go onto the next section, we want to mention that before you actually cut your square, you may want to preshrink or prewash your piece of fabric. 

Tools you’ll want/need

You probably have a few of the items listed below already. Some are more vital than others to accurately cut and sew bias binding. But as we always say, working with the proper tools makes everything go faster, feel easier and look better when it's done.


Rotary cutter(or sharp fabric scissors)

Cutting mat – A must have for rotary cutting, preferably one with angle markings.

See-through quilt ruler – Again, preferably with angle markings, and approximately 24" long.

Marking pen, pencil, or chalk


Ironand ironing board – We had to mention this because the one thing you must have is a way to press your bias binding.

Bias tape maker – These come in a variety of sizes. They’re specifically used as a pressing tool for single fold bias tape. You can learn more about them in our product review

Depending on your sewing space, a Clover Mini Iron may be a great tool for you when it's time to press your binding.

Automatic bias tape maker – If you are going to be making yards and yards and yards of bias tape, you may want to consider one of the products we love: the Simplicity Automatic Bias Tape Maker. We did a review of this great machine and use it often in the S4H studios. 


Depending on the make and model of your sewing machine, you can also ask your sewing machine retailer about feet designed specifically for attaching binding. Keep in mind; these usually have predetermined widths that can be fed through the foot itself. To learn more, take a look at our tutorials on sewing trims with specialty feet and the Rotary Even foot from our exclusive sewing machine sponsor, Janome.

You can use your standard sewing machine foot for piecing the strips together end to end.

Making the bias binding

The first step is to cut the bias strips. If you've been following along, you know in our example, we need to cut 2" bias strips.

NOTE: Similar to our note above about determining yardage, here we share with you another approach to cutting and sewing bias binding. It's slightly different than what we’ve shown in previous tutorials. We chose to show this particular technique because we think it’s easy to understand and it keeps the cutting very compact. We also selected a striped fabric so you can clearly see the result of the bias cutting.

Using your preferred method, cut the proper size square. Ours is 21" x 21".

Lay your fabric square flat on your work surface, right side up. 

Note: We lay the fabric right side up because we will be drawing lines on the fabric for cutting. We find marking the wrong side is better for visibility.  Plus, if we make any marking errors, at least it’s on the wrong side! 

Take the bottom right corner and bring it up to meet the upper left corner to create a triangle. The folded edge is the "true bias" angle.

Now, take the lower left point of the triangle and bring it up to meet the upper right point of the triangle. 

You will now have a second fold at the left and should still have a triangle in front of you.

NOTE: If you’re using a cutting mat, you can use the grid to help keep your fabric edges straight during the folding process.

With a ruler and marking pen or pencil, draw a line half the width of your desired cut strip from the 2nd folded edge of the triangle (the left closed fold - not the right open fold). 

Using our example, this meant we marked a line 1" from the left folded edge.

Mark a second line from the first marked line the exact width of your desired cut strip. We marked a line 2" from the first line.

Continue in this manner, marking at the exact width, until you have completed marking across the entire triangle.

Cut along each marked line, using a rotary cutter and ruler, or a sharp fabric scissor. 

Except for the very first cut at the fold, you will now have two layers of bias cut binding for each cut width.

Since you’ve cut your fabric on the bias, you will also notice all the strips have angled ends – perfect for piecing the strips together! 

Again, the only exception will be the very first strip you cut at the fold. Using a ruler, preferably one with a 45° angle mark, mark and cut each end of this strip to match the others.

Take your pile of newly cut bias strips to your sewing machine.

NOTE: Handle your bias strips with care, they can easily stretch out of shape!

Place two strips right sides together, criss-crossing the angled ends. Little "points" will extend slightly beyond each long straight edge. This is correct. Secure in place with a pin if needed.

Using a straight stitch, and ¼" seam allowance, sew the strips together. 

NOTE: If you have a ¼” Seam foot for your sewing machine, now is a great time to use it!

Trim off the little "points" with a rotary cutter or scissors.

Continue to sew all the strips together in the same manner.

Press all the seams open.

Using a bias tape maker and your iron, press the single fold bias tape as you gently guide it through the bias tape maker.

NOTE: A bias tape maker (a manual oneor the Simplicity Automatic one) is great aid in forming the single fold tape. It’s like having a third hand. You don’t have to use one, but we recommend it to make the job easier.

To fold the tape with only an iron, first fold your strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press.

Open up your strip wrong side towards you, so you can see the center crease.

Fold each side towards the center crease and press. 

NOTE: Here's a favorite trick picked up from the bias tape you buy pre-made in the packages: fold one side nearly all the way to the center fold mark – so it is almost touching the fold; fold the other side just a little short of the fold line. So you end up with one fold that is slightly narrower that the other, BECAUSE that way when you stitch it on, you stitch the narrow side down first and then when you flip it over to do the final topstitching, you will be assured of catching the wider fold in your seam line. 

Fold again along your first crease, right sides together, so your two folded edges are together. Press again to set the center crease.

Ta-da! You’ve made beautiful bias tape. Now you can sew it to your project.

NOTE: When we created our bias tape for this tutorial, we used all the bias strips cut from our triangle. Once sewn together, we actually had 210" of bias tape, way more than we needed. In most cases, you can usually skip sewing the last short cuts of bias strips into the final length. Or, use them mixed in between the longer strips so you do not have as many seams toward the end of your bias tape. Remember, any excess bias tape can certainly be used on a smaller project.

Attaching bias binding to a curved edge

Since bias binding is ideal for finishing a curved edge, we will be showing you examples of that here. 

For detailed instruction on sewing binding to a straight edge, turning corners, and finishing the ends once you’ve sewn completely around the edges, please review out tutorial: Complete Step by Step for Binding Quilts & Throws. You will notice we only used straight-grain binding in that tutorial, but the application for sewing binding is exactly the same.

NOTE: Just a reminder, our example below uses single fold bias binding. The sewing steps are similar for double fold, except with double fold, you do not open the folded edge to begin sewing, you simply leave it doubled.

Open one side of the pressed edge of the single fold bias tape. If you used a bias tape maker or followed our note above, you are unfolding the slightly narrower side.

Leaving a tail at the beginning, line up the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw curved edge. Your bias tape and your fabric should be right sides together. Secure in place with a couple of pins to get started.

NOTE: For detailed instructions on how to begin sewing binding, be sure to read the above referenced tutorial.

Using a straight stitch and a ½" seam allowance, sew the bias binding to the raw edge, using the crease line as your stitching guide.

Sew slowly, and continue to guide and shape the bias binding along the curved edge. You will need to watch the edge closely, stop often, and slightly pivot the fabric. If you have a sewing machine with a knee lifter, this is a great time to use it!

Wrap the unsewn folded edge over the raw edge of the fabric to the back. Secure in place with pins on the right side – in the "ditch" of the seam you just sewed.

NOTE: It's a good idea to press the binding along the edge before wrapping it around to the back.

NOTE: At this point, you will need to address how you plan to finish the ends, with a simple overlap, or by sewing the ends together. We’ve provided details on how to do both in our tutorial: Complete Step by Step for Binding Quilts & Throws.

Stitch along the bias binding, just next to the original seam, on the right side. Most people choose a straight stitch and thread that matches the binding for this step, but you can also use a decorative stitch with contrasting thread for an added effect. (We used contrasting thread so you could see our stitching clearly!)

When you flip over to the back, you'll see that you've perfectly caught the entire length of that ever-so-slightly wider fold on the back. Yay!

Tips we’ve picked up along the way

True bias is cut at 45°, however fabric cut on any angle is considered bias too. The difference? The degree of stretchiness.

We mentioned in this tutorial that we used another approach to cutting the bias strips. Believe it or not, there are still more to try! If you do a general Internet search, you’ll find lots, just be cautious as some can be a bit of a brainteaser (unlike our super simple, easy-to-follow tutorials here at Sew4Home!).

As you become addicted to making bias binding, you’ll find you almost always have some short little strips left over. Place these in a box or basket for future projects. You can piece them together for a great scrappy look!

Speaking of scraps, you can also piece straight grain cut strips (or leftover pieces from a Jelly Roll) to create new fabric.

Cut your new fabric on a 45° angle, and you’ll have another beautifully unique type of pieced bias binding. 

If you do not have a bias tape maker, you can create a DIY version with a pin and a seam gauge. We found some other examples of DIY bias tape makers using a craft cutting blade and a hair straightener, as well as a printable paper one! If you’re interested in seeing any of these, a general Internet search will be your friend.

If you decided to give pre-made bias tape a try, review our Cheat Sheet


Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Jodi Kelly



Comments (45)

francis1970 said:
francis1970's picture

Hello there! Great tutorial. I do have a question: I have heard that you do not need to preshrink fabric for bias tape. Is this true? I want to make some linen bias tape, and it would be great if I didn't have to wash/shrink the fabric first. I have heard that it's because bias has so much stretch there is no need to preshrink. I would love your thoughts on this!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@francis1970 - Not preshrinking bias tape is not a particular recommendation we are familiar with, but that doesn't mean is isn't valid. In general, the choice for pre-shrinking depends most on how the final item will be used/cleaned. Pre-shrinking is not necessarily about the bias stretch - that will help your binding curve smoothly around an edge. If your linen is binding another type of fabric and you plan on washing the finished project, there could be uneven shrinkage that could produce twisting. Perhaps this is the "theory" behind not pre-shrinking bias binding -- that is has enough inherent stretch to overcome this. Again, we simply can't guarantee it, having not tried it. I've added a link below to our pre-shrinking article for more details. Remember, it's most about how the final item will be cared for.

chicki said:
chicki's picture

I love your tutorial!! I do have a for instance If I want to cut 2 1/4" fabric (not on the bias) and press in half to measure 1 1/8", can I feed it through a binding tool with that thickness for my quilt binding? I make my binding w/o a tape maker this way then stitch it on the front of my quilt and then I fold it over to the back (which gives me  1/2 binding on the front & back) and hand sew it on....If it  is possible, then what size tape maker should I buy to make this type of binding? I'm a bit confused as to what size to buy??

Thank you!!  

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Chicki - You are planning a double fold binding and want a 1/2" reveal, so using the traditional formula you'd start with a 2-1/2" strip if using a 1/4" seam -- but perhaps your seaming is more precise with the hand stitching. Staying with your measurments, the only tool I've seen that flat folds 2-1/4 to 1-1/8 is the Simplicity Bias Tape Machine (linked below). The single bias bape makers will work with straight cut fabric, you just need to cut a point in one end to get it started, but I've not seen any that work with those sizes. The standard larger sizes are 1" and 2"... and all of them we've seen fold the two sides into the middle rather than folding in half. For custom sizes, and since you are simply folding in half, a pressing tool might be the best way to speed things up (also linked below).

LizK said:
LizK's picture

Great tutorial! I am going to be using velvet for the binding-any special tips? I will use a different fabric first to practice on. Also, is it possible to put cording into the bias binding when I fold the wider side of the binding to the back of the piece?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ LizK - Piping and binding are really two different animals. Adding piping cord in the manner you're describing is unlikely to stay in place securely. We do have a tutorial on making and attaching your own custom piping, which is linked below along with a tutorial on working with velvet. Keep in mind that velvet will be quite a bit thicker than a standard cotton binding so you'll want to trim back your seam allowances to reduce bulk wherever you can.

Dee Gee said:
Dee Gee's picture

I'm trying to do this with some very difficult crinkle fabric which I've interfaced. Unfortunately it keeps stretching outward when topstitching, and I'm left with the first stitching (securing the bias to the raw edge) visible. It's a small narrow size of 6mm finished binding. I'm going to try to lessen the pressure on the foot, and get myself a adjustable edge stitch foot so I can really close to the edge for a more professional finish. If anyone has any experience with sewing small narrow bias binding, please help! I would love to know the best way to do it for some summer dresses and tops I have in mind:)

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Dee Gee - That does seem like a challenge. By interfacing, I'd have thought you would get the stability you needed. Perhaps you could try stitching it with one step: slipping the binding over the raw edge and edgestitching to catch both front and back. Of course that won't give you as smooth a finish as the two-step method, but it is an option. We've gone this route on some home dec projects, switching to a simple decorative stitch in thread to match the binding to actually give it the look of a planned embellishment rather than a "fix"  There may be a more experienced garment sewer out there with additional ideas.

Dee Gee said:
Dee Gee's picture

@ Liz Johnson

Thank you for the suggestion Liz, I managed to do it by hand sewing it instead. I know it's probably more time consuming, but as I got into it, it went along quite quickly. Actually, a nice bonus is that the finish is practically invisible compared to the machine stitching, yay! This is my first time sewing a garment and I am a confessed perfectionist, so it's like me to choose a difficult fabric with a difficult sewing project. I really don't make thing's easy for myself!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Dee Gee - thanks for following up - it's good to know you got it to work out. I bet it looks lovely. 

SallyS in Massachusetts said:
SallyS in Massachusetts's picture

Thank you for this tutorial.  I am planning to make a reverisble mandarin type jacket and want to make my own double fold bias binding. I am planning to make it 1/2 inch which is what it will end up being when it's folded.  Using your formula, it sounds like I need to cut 3 inch bias strips. What size bias binding maker would I need to purchase?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ SallyS in Massachusetts - If you are planning to make double fold, you are just folding the strip in half. Unless you are marking yards and yards and yards, it's easiest to simply fold and press with your iron. For the single fold option, the tip is based on the initial flat with (each side folded to the middle but not folded in half). This article on the Simplicity Automatic Bias Tape Maker helps illustrate it:

Nat said:
Nat's picture

Thank you for clear instructions. I'm making a fluted edged cushion for a footstool and this was the clearest and easiest lesson for bias binding calcultions and making I've found. Now on to make the fluted edge with it now... :) 

Claudia St said:
Claudia St's picture

Dear Liz, thank you very much for this great tutorial! It is very helpful - especially for me, a beginner...
I will try my first project with self made bias tape soon following your instructions. And I have one question: does the magical math formula also make sense when a smaller amount/length of bias tape is needed (such as 50" or even less?), so the fabric square I would need is a lot smaller than in your example. Or would this just result in too much seaming within the tape??? Can you advise, please!? (I think the formula still works when using cm instead of inches...?)

Many regards and thank you from Germany,


Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Claudia St - it does still work, but remember, the best use for true bias binding is if you have a project with curved edges. If your project has straight edges, you don't necessarily have to cut your strips on the bias. We often use straight cuts for straight edge binding. It uses less fabric and there are fewer seams.

Claudia St said:
Claudia St's picture

Thank you very much for your reply! This makes absolutely sense to me. I tried it today and everything worked out fine! Thanks!

Mary said:
Mary 's picture

I just finished a quilt that I want to put directional binding on, the top and the bottom will  go to the right and the sides will also go to the rigt - what do I do with the corners to get them to look good?

I normally do a one continuous  length and miter the corners but can't figure out how to do that HELP

eknight said:
eknight's picture

This was very helpful! I am new to using binding when I am sewing. I now have a problem....I used a package of binding to make a blanket and need to use another. I am usure about how to start new binding after already using a whole package. Suggestions...????

Jane K B said:
Jane K B 's picture

Remove a couple inches of the tape you've already sewn.  Cut the end with the grain of bias tape (will be at a diagonal to the length of tape).  Cut a corresponding diagonal in the new tape and sew them together.  Press and continue sewing.

Joyce Ann said:
Joyce Ann's picture

I, too am using 2" prepackaged satin binding.  Could you post a diagram of the above direction.  I'm having a hard time visualizing it.  If you cut the satin binding, it will unravel...

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Joyce Ann - The satin blanket binding is not bias binding. The best way to think of it is as wide ribbon folded in half. As it is just folded in half, most people simply slip it over the edge and edgestitch in place. Similar to the bias tape, the packaged satin binding is not folded exactly in half; one edge is ever so slightly longer. The longer edge should go to the back,the shorter to the front. This is so when edgestitching along the front, you are then able to more easily catch the back. With the polyester binding, you can melt the raw ends with a flame or use a seam sealant.

We have an easy tutorial on attaching this type of binding and making "faux mitered corners."

Brandi P. said:
Brandi P.'s picture

Oh my gosh!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!  I could kiss you right now!  Okay, sorry for all of the excitement.  I just spent a ridiculous amount of time trying to figure out how to fold my fabric, make, sew together and use...Your tutorial is BY FAR the easiest I've seen and it covers ALL of what I needed.  Thanks so much 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

Brandi P -- thanks for the cute response. You are welcome to mail us a kiss! Glad we could help clear things up. 

Steph in Bham said:
Steph in Bham's picture

New to bias binding so this was sure a helpful tutorial! Thanks so much! I am curious, can any type of fabric be used for bias binding or is it best to stick with a certain type of fabric?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Steph - you can use just about anything - it really depends on your project. We've used everything from quilting cotton to velveteen to corduroy. It depends on the look/feel you want your finished project to have. And, keep in mind the weight and thickness of the binding fabric to make sure it doesn't overwhelm the quilt/throw. 

Yusuf said:
Yusuf's picture

That is a brilliant tutorial. Where can I get the Simplicity Bias tape maker and what is the price of it?

Linda said:
 Linda's picture

 Thank you so much, the most simple way of explaining what I thought would be a difficult project. Love your website.Linda - South Africa

Elizabeth H said:
Elizabeth H's picture

Please excuse my last comment, I found where I could print it and I did, now wish me luck doing it.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

Glad you found the print and pdf buttons. Also, within your browser, you can control the size of the font that displays. 

Elizabeth H said:
Elizabeth H's picture

Is there a way I can print this tutorial as due to vision problems I have problems reading the screen with the font so small?

MollyK said:
MollyK's picture

I'm confused about the width of the strips. This is my first time making bias tape.  Everything else I've been reading about double fold tape says to multiply your desired width by four to get the width of the strips you will cut, which makes sense to me. But you say multiply by six.  Where does the six come from? Do you press your strips differently?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ MollyK - Maybe it's a "what to call it" issue. People often confuse the two types. Look at the photo above of the two side by side. Even though the one of the left looks like it has more folds involved, it is the "single fold" --  the one on the right is the "double fold" because you are doubling the fabric. Single fold bias tape IS figured by multiplying by 4. However, double fold requires more width to account for seam allowance and two folds, therefore it's multiplied by 6. Since you are new to the technique, you may want to practice first on scraps to cement the concept in your head. Cut your binding both ways, using both measurements, press the folds, and actually attach a bit of it to something. You'll quickly see how the x4 versus x6 works. 

MollyK said:
MollyK's picture

Ah!  Now I see that the single fold binding is what I WAS thinking of as double fold.  And now I totally get where the six comes from for actual double fold binding! Thank you :)

Judy Blinkenberg said:
Judy Blinkenberg's picture

I like bias bindings alot. Thank you. It's great for newbies like me.

javadiva said:
javadiva's picture

Thank you so much for this tutorial! I'm excited about how you fold the fabric and get so many strips with a few cuts!

Joanna Rohde-Morse said:
Joanna Rohde-Morse's picture

I've been sewing since I was 5 years old ( so that's 45 yrs) and have never made my own bias binding. This is a fabulous tutorial that I plan to try immediately! Thanks for posting as, even with many years of experience, we all learn something new everday :)

quilternoel said:
quilternoel's picture

This is fab! Do you have a tutorial for the cute make-up case on the top of the page? I'd love to make one like that. Thanks, too, for the awesome instructions on sewing with laminates. Love it!

muriel fitzgibbon said:
muriel fitzgibbon's picture

Thank you for such a splendid tutorial class.  I feel immensly helped by your rendition.  Please inform me, if you are free to do so, of a list of your good tips and teachings.  I am constantly working with bias (which to purchase is expensive, and making time consuming if not using s timesaving and correct directional.  Again thank you.

Sharon Groves said:
Sharon Groves's picture

Wonderful tutorial & I love your sense of humor! I know that sometimes people get really uptight about this subject & you all are so great at lightening things up. Thanks. In teaching straight strip binding, I found that when sewing squared strips together (bias seam) if I told them to sew like they read a book, upper left corner to lower right corner, we had success more often than not. Love your site!

Christina said:
Christina's picture

I love your tutorials.  I feel like I'm taking a sewing class from home.  Thank you!

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