Babies like to suck on things, and today’s orthodontically-correct pacifiers seem to be something the majority of us can agree on as little lifesavers… for both the baby and the parents. However, they also never seem to be where you need them when you need them. We have two solutions: one) a lanyard that snaps onto the pacifier on one end and clips onto a baby’s clothing, stroller or swing on the other end; and two) a cute little pouch that can hold two binkies (on their lanyards) with its own snap-on handle to attach the pouch to a diaper bag, stroller or wherever you might need to have it handy. 

We’ve dubbed this pouch: “backup-binky-bag.” Because… you can never have too many on hand. In fact, I still remember coming across an old cardigan in the back of a storage closet, years after my own kids were well beyond binkies – in the pocket, a spare pacifier!

There’s a free pattern download below so you can get the perfect pouch shape, complete with two small darts in the bottom to create the fullness needed to hold the pacifiers and their lanyards.

We dove into our scrap stash for heavier-weight fabrics for both our lanyards and their pouch. Home décor fabrics are a nice option. You could go with a standard weight cotton, but it would then make sense to up the stability of the interfacing to a medium or heavy weight. If your layers begin to get really substantial, you may also want to consider switching to long prong snaps.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: Supplies shown are for TWO binky lanyards and ONE matching carrying pouch.

• Scrap or ¼ yard of 44″+ wide heavier-weight fabric for the pouch exterior
• Scrap or ¼ yard of 44″+ wide of Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) or similar for the pouch interior
• Scraps or ⅛ yard of 44″+ wide heavier-weight fabric for EACH lanyard
• Scrap or ¼ yard of lightweight fusible interfacing, such as Pellon Shape Flex
• THREE pearl snap fasteners; they don’t have to be the pearl type, but it does make a nicer finish
• Snap setting tool
  NOTE: See our tutorial for more information on installing metal snaps.
• TWO suspender/mitten clips
• All-purpose sewing thread to match fabric
• Scissors and/or rotary cutter and mat
• See-through ruler
• Straight pins
• Sewing clips for working with the PUL
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Iron and ironing board

Getting Started and Pattern Download

1. Download and print the Pacifier Pouch pattern.
   IMPORTANT: The pattern download consists of ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print this PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guideline on the page to insure your printout is to scale.
2. Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line.
3. From the lanyard fabric(s), cut ONE 11½” x 3″ strip for each lanyard.
4. From the pouch exterior fabric, cut the following:
   Using the pouch pattern, cut TWO
   Using the flap pattern, cut TWO
   ONE 3″ x 3½” strip
   ONE 3″ x 6″ strip
5. From the PUL, using the pouch pattern, cut TWO.
6. From the lightweight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 1″ x 11″ strips (one for each lanyard)
   Using the pouch pattern, cut TWO
   Using the flap pattern, cut TWO
   

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

POUCH

1. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each exterior pouch piece and each exterior flap piece.
2. On the paper pattern for the the pouch, trim away the marked dart lines and punch a hole at the snap placement dot. On the paper pattern for the the flap, punch a hole at the snap placement dot.
3. Using these “altered ” patterns as a guide, mark dart lines and snap placement dots on the wrong side (the interfaced side) of both exterior pouch pieces. Mark the snap placement dots on the right side of both exterior flap pieces. Mark the dart lines on the wrong side of the two PUL pouch pieces.
   

Create the flap

1. Place the two exterior flap pieces right sides together and pin in place.
2. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around the entire curve of the flap, leaving the straight edge open.
   
3. Trim the seam allowance to ¼” and clip the curves.
   
4. Turn the flap right side out through the open top. Using a long blunt tool, smooth out the curve. A chopstick, knitting needle or point turner are all good options. Press well.
5. If necessary, re-thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch. Edgestitch along the entire curved edge; the straight top edge is still open.
   

Create the straps

1. Find the two 3″ strips (one at 3½” and one at 6″).
2. On each 3” strip, press back the raw edge ½” along both sides and one end.
   
3. Fold the strips in half lengthwise, aligning the folded edges. Pin in place.
   
4. Edgestitch along both sides and across the folded end.
   

Install the snaps and make the pouch darts

1. Apply snaps to the marked positions on the completed flap (the top-pearl half), one pouch piece (the bottom stud half), and ½” from the finished end of each strap (pearl half on the long strap, stud half on the short strap).
   
   NOTE: If you are new to installing snaps, check out our tutorial. 
2. Following the marked lines, sew darts in each pouch piece. Press the darts toward the center.
3. Following the marked lines, sew darts in each PUL piece. Finger press the darts toward the center.
   NOTE: If you are new to making darts, we have a tutorial on them too!

Assemble the pouch

1. Place the two exterior pouch pieces (with darts in place and pressed) right sides together, matching the raw edges and the dart seams. Pin in place around the curve.
2. Re-set the stitch length to normal. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around the entire curve of the pouch, leaving the top straight edge open.
   
3. Trim the seam allowance to ¼” and clip the curves.
4. Sew the interior PUL pouch pieces together in the same manner. You can re-thread the machine with thread to best match the PUL lining, however, we didn’t bother as the seams will not show and our blue thread was quite light.
   
5. Turn the exterior pouch right side out and place the pouch on your work surface with the back side (the side with no snap) facing up.
6. Pin the flap to the pouch, centered between the side seams. The flap should be right sides together with the pouch, which means the bottom half of the snap will be facing up.
7. On the right side (right side as you are looking down at the pouch) place the long strap so its right side is exactly in line with the right side seam of the pouch. This means its left edge will be tucked under the flap just slightly.
8. Repeat to attach the short strap on the left side of the flap. Again, the strap’s left side should be exactly in line with the left side seam of the pouch and the right side of the strap will be tucked under the flap just a bit.
9. The top raw edges of the flap and both straps should be flush with the top raw edge of the pouch.
10. Pin all three pieces in place.
    
11. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch through all the layers, from one side seam to the opposite side seam.
12. Flip up the flap and the straps; this will cause the ½” seam allowance to fold to the inside of the pouch.
13. Fold down the remaining raw edge along the front of the pouch ½” to match. Pin in place.
14. Find the PUL pouch. It should still be wrong side out.
15. Fold over the top raw edge of the PUL pouch ½” to match the exterior. Hold in place with clips.
    NOTE: You should use clips rather than pins with PUL. For more on working with this special fabric, check out our tutorial.
    
16. Slip the PUL lining inside the exterior pouch so the two pieces are now wrong sides together.
17. Align the darts and the upper edges of the two pouches. Adjust the clips so they now hold both layers together in place along the front edge. At the back, the lining should just cover the flap/straps seam.
    
18. Slightly lengthen the stitch. Edgestitch around the entire pouch opening through all the layers, removing the clips as you go. Make sure the straps are positioning up and out of the way.
    NOTE: Again, we kept our main light blue thread in both the top and bobbin. You could also choose to re-thread with thread to best match the PUL in the top and to best match the exterior fabric in the bobbin.
    

LANYARD

1. Find one 11½” x 3″ piece of lanyard fabric. Fold in and press ½” along both long edges, then fold in and press ½” on one end.
   
2. Tuck a 1″ x 11½” interfacing strip under the folded edge on one side. Following manufacturer’s directions, fuse in place.
3. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and aligning the folded edges, and press.
   
4. Re-thread the machine if necessary with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin. The stitch should still be slightly lengthened. Edgestitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at each corner. The top edges of the lanyard are left open.
   
5. Apply the bottom half of the snap set on the back side of the lanyard, approximately ⅜” from finished end.
6. Apply the top half of the snap set (the pearl side) on the front side of lanyard, approximately 3″ from the finished end of the lanyard. Before applying this second half, be sure to try it out with a binky to confirm you have the correct positioning and enough length to wrap through your binky.
   
   NOTE: As we mentioned above, If you’re new to applying snaps, take a look at our tutorial: How to Apply Metal Snaps to Fabric.
7. Press the unfinished end of the lanyard to the back ¼”.
8. Thread this end through the suspender clip, brining it through approximately ¾” and encasing the raw edge of the first fold. Make sure this folded edge is at the back of the lanyard (the side of the lanyard that does not feature the pearl head of the snap). Take a minute to close your snap and double-check you threaded the suspender clip in the right direction.
   
9. Stitch across the tab close to the folded edge. We recommend several lines of stitching to create a nice strong seam.
   

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler