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Bundle of Box Style Floor Cushions: Deck The Halls with Fabric.com

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Today's our last project day in the Deck The Halls with Fabric.com series, and we're moving from The Halls down to The Floors with our decorating inspiration. These boxed floor cushions, with their piping and tufted buttons, are a home décor classic. But many otherwise hearty sewists shy away from attempting the style because it's three-dimensional. Remember when people thought the earth was flat? Then, when they kept on sailing and didn't fall off the edge, they discovered all sorts of amazing things?! It's the same with sewing. If you're only willing to attempt flat projects, you're missing all kinds of fun. And... you're highly unlikely to fall off your sewing chair. Floor cushions make great extra seating for holiday gatherings and game nights, so we knew we had to make more than one. We selected big, bold and beautiful fabrics from Premier Prints to make a festive stack of four. Then, we added a clever harness out of nylon webbing to bundle them together, making it easy to carry the whole stack from room to room. The harness also works to keep the stack stable when used as a handy footstool. 

This is a great project to perfect your piping skills... and we don't mean bagpiping! With piping on the top and bottom of all four cushions, you'll be working with over 700" of bias strips and cording. Don't be afraid! Not only is it great practice, you can set up an assembly line to cut, seam, wrap and baste, cranking out those inches in no time. 

We've had so much fun with this year's Deck The Halls series with Fabric.com. They sponsored all nine projects (scroll down to the bottom of the article to check out the Related Links), and coming up tomorrow, they've provided a fantastic Great Giveaway with FOUR winners. A big holiday box of appreciation to all our Fabric.com friends for making all of it possible!

This project is a true fabric showcase. It's a great excuse to use those dramatic motifs that always catch your eye, but aren't right for a smaller execution. For these cushions, you want impressive patterns and colors, and it's fun to experiment with combinations of non-traditional prints. Would you have thought a multi-color stripe and a tangy green chevron would go so well together?! Blend outside the box... outside the boxed floor cushion that is!

Each of our floor cushions finishes at approximately 22" x 22" x 4".

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies


NOTE: Inventory shifts constantly, and some fabric may not be in-stock when you first visit. However, there are other color options as well as re-stock dates listed for each fabric. Above are our sample fabrics. Below are some alternate selections. Click on the swatch strips below for even more fabric options from which to choose.

Supplies shown are for FOUR cushions and one harness strap.

Getting Started

  1. From EACH of the four feature prints, cut the following:
    TWO 23" x 23" squares
    TWO 5" x 45" strips for the sides
    NOTE: As we mentioned above, big and bold motifs are best for these pretty cushions, so take the extra time to do a nice fussy cut for each square, centering your design(s). If you are new to this technique, check out our fussy cutting tutorial
  2. From the fabric for the piping, cut enough 2" wide bias strips to yield at least 752" of piping (yep... we said 752").
    NOTE: If you are new to working with bias strips for piping, take a look at our detailed tutorial, How To Make and Attach Piping.
  3. From the batting, cut FOUR 55" x 35" rectangles.
  4. Cut the webbing into TWO 87" lengths and ONE 10" length
    NOTE: If you use a different type of insert of filler, you may want to wait until all your cushions are made and stacked to measure the webbing lengths. Each length should be approximately 10" longer than the circumference of the stacked set of cushions.
  5. Cut the NU-Foam® into EIGHT 22" x 22" squares. 
  6. Place two NU-Foam® squares together to create a 4" high stack. Make sure all four edges are flush. Use a light layer of spray adhesive to adhere the squares to one another. Repeat to create three additional 4" stacks. 
  7. Find the four sheets of batting. Use one sheet for each NU-Foam® stack, wrapping the stack like a gift. Trim off the excess batting in the corners so the cushion has an even, single layer batting on all surfaces. Use the spray adhesive to hold the batting in place. 
  8. Set aside your four prepared cushion inserts. 

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

  1. Find the eight main panels.
  2. Fold each panel in half both ways to find the center of each side. Cut a small notch at the center of each side of each piece. Set aside. 

Create and attach the piping

  1. Stitch the 2" bias strips together end to end to create one, super long length. As mentioned above, if you are new to working with bias cuts for piping, we have a great tutorial.
    NOTE: We serged the edges of our bias strips. This is totally optional.
  2. Find the matching super long length of piping cord.
  3. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the piping fabric in the top and bobbin.
  4. Wrap the fabric around the piping cord. Align the raw edges of the fabric and pin in place. 
    NOTE: With smaller piping such as we are using, some people prefer to skip the pins and just wrap and hold the raw edges in place as they sew.
  5. Attach a Zipper foot. 
  6. Secure the fabric in place around the cording with a basting stitch, running your seam as close to the cording as possible. Go slowly; it's important the raw edges of the fabric stay even with one another.
  7. When all the piping is complete, cut it into EIGHT equal lengths, two 94" lengths for each cushion
  8. Find all eight main panels. 
  9. Place one right side up and flat on your work surface.
  10. Starting in the middle of one side, place a length of piping around all four sides of the panel, aligning the raw edges of the piping with the raw edge of the fabric. Leave about 1" free at the head and the tail of the piping.
  11. Still using the Zipper foot, machine baste the piping in place.
  12. When sewing the piping in place, as you approach the corner, stop, with the needle in the down position, at the point where you would normally pivot to turn the corner (approximately ½" from the corner, depending on your seam allowance).
  13. Raise the presser foot and clip into the flange/lip of the piping at several points. Do not cut through your original stitching which secured the fabric around the cording! These clips help ease the fabric to make a smooth curve around the corner.
  14. Rotate the fabric slightly to begin to turn the corner. 
  15. Rotate the fabric again to completely turn the corner and continue to guide the piping in place as you sew toward the next corner. You now have a lovely rounded corner. 
  16. Continue sewing your piping in place until you are back to where you started. 
  17. Using the "tails" you accounted for at the beginning and end, peel back the fabric to expose the cording underneath. Snip off about ¾-1" of cording from each end. 
  18. Overlap the two ends, folding the raw ends down to create a subtle joint. Pin in place. 
  19. Stitch in place, matching your previous seam line. Trim away the excess piping fabric.

    NOTE: As mentioned above, if you're new to piping, check out our tutorial for general tips on making, joining and finishing.
  20. Repeat to attach piping to the remaining seven cushion panels.

Assemble the top and bottom panels to the sides

  1. Find the two 5" x 45" side strips for each cushion.
  2. Place the first two strips right sides together. Pin along both 5" ends. 
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch each end to create a ring. 
  4. Fold the ring in half, matching the two seams. Make tiny notches at the top and bottom of the folded ends. You now have two sets of center notches and two seams to use as positioning points. These will match up with the center notches you made in the main panels above. 
  5. Place one piped panel right side up and flat on your work surface.
  6. Then, using all those handy notches you made, match the side ring to the panel. Start in the middle and work your way around. You are working right sides together, aligning the raw edges, matching the notches and sandwiching the piping between the layers. Clip the corners to make a sharp angle. Pin generously as you go. 
  7. Using a zipper foot, sew around the entire edge with an approximate ½" seam allowance. You are stitching as close to the piping as possible, following along in the machine basting line that secured the piping. 
  8. Fold up the sides so it resembles the bottom of a gift box. Your piping will pop out along your seam line at the "bottom" edge of the box. The next step is going to function like a "top" for the box.
  9. Place the remaining piped panel right sides together with the top raw edge of the side ring. As above, you are working right sides together, aligning the raw edges, matching the notches and sandwiching the piping between the layers. 
  10. Pin generously as you go around THREE sides, then just around the corners of the fourth side. Leave the majority of the fourth side seam open to insert the cushion. 
  11. Using the zipper foot, sew around the three+ sides with an approximate ½" seam allowance. As above, stay as close to the piping as possible and follow along in the piping's basting seam.
  12. Turn right side out through the opening. Push out the corners. Lightly press. 
  13. Find one of the wrapped cushions. Fold the cushion in half and insert it into the cover, pushing it in as far as you can. 
  14. Gently let go so the cushion unfolds. Work the cushion corners into the corners of the cushion cover. Smooth the batting all around. 
  15. Carefully pin the opening closed. Thread a hand sewing needle and hand stitch the opening closed with tiny, even stitches. A regular hand sewing needle will work, but you may prefer a curved needle to help get under the piping.

Tufted buttons

  1. Mark the position for the buttons. Our buttons are placed 8" in and 8" over from each rounded corner as shown below. Remember to mark the button placement points on BOTH sides of the cushion.

    NOTE: To help with positioning, you can make a paper template. Round the corner to match the rounded corners of the cushion. At the opposite corner, measure 8" over and 8" up and mark cross hairs for the button placement.
  2. Using the template provided with the button cover kits, carefully cut solid color circles from each of the main fabrics. If you are new to this technique, we have a tutorial: Making Covered Buttons with a Button Kit.

    NOTE: With thinner fabrics, we often recommend also using a circle of batting with covered buttons. The fabric used for these cushions did not require batting.
  3. Repeat to create 32 covered buttons, changing fabric as needed to best match/contrast with your cushion fabrics. 
  4. Run the waxed button thread through the shank of one covered button, doubling the length. Make sure you have plenty of thread; you need it to be at least a few inches longer than the cushion itself - then double this because you are threading a double length. It's better to have more thread than not enough.
  5. Thread both ends through the long upholstery needle.
  6. Insert the needle at the exact center of a button placement point.
  7. Push the needle in, keeping it as straight and level as possible.
  8. As it begins to disappear, "accordion" the cushion slightly to continue moving the needle down through the center of the cushion until it comes out the opposite end. Maneuver the point of the needle as necessary to insure it comes out through the exact marked center point on the opposite side.
  9. Pull the thread through. Pass the needle through a second covered button. 
  10. Re-insert the needle at the marked point, running it back through the cushion and back out the originally entry point next to the first button. 
  11. Remove the needle and pull the thread ends tight, cinching the thread until the tufting on both sides looks good to you. Tie several knots, snugging up both buttons each time to they are nice and tight.  
  12. Cut away the excess thread close to the edge of the button so the tails are hidden behind the button. 


  1. Find the three lengths of webbing. Fold each longer length in half to find the exact centers. Mark with a pin. 
  2. Place the 10" length horizontally across the two lengths at this center point. The ends of the short piece should be flush with the outer edges of the longer lengths. Pin in place.
  3. Thread your machine with thread to match the webbing in the top and bobbin.
  4. Secure each end of the 10" length with a 1" X-Box stitch.
    NOTE: The nylon webbing will not fray so it is not necessary to finish the ends. 
  5. Working with one long length at a time, find two of the curcingles and one slider. Slip one end of the webbing length through one curcingle, feeding it from the bottom to the top as shown below. Pull the tail through approximately 2" and pin in place.
  6. Feed the opposite end of the webbing length first through the slider and then straight through the second curcingle, as shown below.
  7. Stitch the 2" folded back end in place with a X-Box stitch.
  8. On the opposite end, feed the loose end back through the slider.
  9. Pull the end through about 2½" and pin. Then stitch to secure with an X-Box as above with the other ends.
  10. Wrap the harness around the bundle and buckle to secure, cinching up the straps as needed. If used as a footstool, as shown in some of our photos, it also helps to cinch up the straps to account for the weight of the feet pressing down onto the cushions.


Project Design: Alicia Thommas      
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Kathy Andrews, What Sew Ever



Comments (7)

Jgood1223 said:
Jgood1223's picture

These cushions are wonderful.  Can't wait to make them and learn so new skills!

Jane Coombs said:
Jane Coombs's picture

This is a general sewing question. When using a pillow form, the Basic 16" square, what are the dimensions of the fabric ? It wiill be piped. Thx

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Jane Coombs - there isn't one set answer to that. In general, many people start with a square 1" larger all around than the insert - so 17" x 17". And, if doing piping, that is probably a good place to start because it gives you a bit extra to work with to attach the piping. However, we also often use a square the same size as the insert (16" x 16") because many inserts are not as "plump" as their measurements show. If you want a nice, taut pillow, that's a better way to go. All that to say, it's somewhat personal preference. 

Helen M said:
Helen M's picture

Fantasic tutorial!  I wish I had this a few years ago!  Just one question....how did you cut the foam?  That has been a problem for me.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Helen M - We use a craft or serrated knife. We've also found it helpful to use a board (just set on top of the foam) to help weight and hold it as we cut. 

mpistey said:
mpistey's picture

The pillows are beautiful, and what a great tutorial - it will help me make a cushion for an outdoor wrought iron loveseat.  Love humor you inject in your tutorials!  Just out of curiosity, why did you use a zipper foot instead of a piping foot?  Is there an advantage?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ mpistey - A piping foot is used to sew pre-purchased piping trim with a flange or to aid when making your own piping. This foot can be used for other trims with a similar structure as standard piping. One misconception is that because of the name, it’s assumed it also works for piping larger than 4mm. However, for most piping or corded trims with a flange, especially the nice thick ones, like we used on these cushions, use a Zipper Foot. Here's a link to Janome's piping foot; you can see they are designed for much skinnier cord.