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Mini Snap-and-Fold Card Case with Renaissance Ribbons

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Gift card, credit card, business card; this three-pocket mini wallet holds them all. We used pre-cuts, but the real stars are the stunning Renaissance Ribbons. We’ve brought you news over the last several months about the Ribbon Lovers' Club that Renaissance Ribbons debuted this year. As a club member, each month a packet arrives at your door with five to seven one-yard lengths of exquisite ribbon. We created these clever pouches with the Club packets in mind. You can create multiple cases with a single one-yard length, mixing and matching with fabric scraps or pre-cuts you have on hand. They make a gorgeous gift idea. 

We created four different samples to show how easy it is to create a unique look for each recipient. From sweet and pretty to bold and graphic to cute for kids. Drop in a gift card and/or cash and/or a secret love note; it’s an all-in-one gift that can be re-used as a mini-wallet or business card holder later on.

Each case has three inside pockets. There’s one standard pocket at the top, and a clever accordion pocket along the bottom that expands outward into two handy sections. The front pockets have a center “V” notch that makes it easy to grab and pull out your card.

Thanks to the sponsorship of Renaissance Ribbons, we’ve provided a full set of free pattern downloads to make it extra easy to insure everything fits together front to back.

Our gorgeous sample ribbons come from both the Renaissance Ribbons current collections as well as December’s Tula Pink Classics Ribbon Club packet. Besides being a bundle a beauty that arrives at your door every month, Club members often get amazing surprises, like this month’s Classics. These are some of the most popular Tula ribbons, ones that sold out in a snap upon their debut and are no longer available from open stock. But, the crew at Renaissance Ribbons collected and cut the last lengths just for Club members. Yep — collector editions!

Club packets ship the last weekend of each month, so there’s still time to sign up to receive December’s Tula Pink Classics collection.

Each arrival from the Ribbon Lovers' Club will contain ribbon in different widths, from ” to a full 1½”. This gives you a wonderful variety of options for your projects. If you need a little help with ideas, the monthly Club flyer lists tutorials that are perfect for ribbon embellishments. The majority of these project tutorials are absolutely free, including some we’ve done right here on Sew4Home. You’ll also get get access to their private Facebook group so you can share your success and be inspired by others’ creativity.

If you’re a regular Sew4Home visitor, you know we’re fans of Renaissance Ribbons. Their woven jacquard ribbons are simply the brightest, most beautiful ribbon we’ve ever found. Because of this vibrant color palette, we prefer to stitch them in place with a monofilament thread in the top and bobbin for a nearly invisible finish. This is not mandatory, but it is a nicer look against the ribbon.

For best results, you may need to loosen your upper tension slightly. It's also a good idea to lengthen your stitch and sew at a slow and even pace. This type of thread does not stretch as well as regular thread and can break more easily under pressure, especially if it accidentally slides off the spool and wraps around the spool pin. Using a spool cap against the spool helps hold it in place on the pin, and again, going slowly and evenly helps the thread to feed correctly off the spool. Finally, always sew in the same direction along both sides of the ribbon. This will help prevent any shifting and puckering. If you'd prefer not to use invisible thread, choose colors that very closely match your ribbon, and take the time to re-thread as often as needed to maintain a perfect match.

Our Mini Card Cases finish at approximately 4” wide x 6” high when open and flat and 4” x 3” when snapped closed.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: For each Card Case you need just small amounts of ribbon and fabric. We used either two Fat Quarters or two Fat Eighths for each our samples, but scraps would work just as well. We recommend printing out the the patterns first so you can clearly see the sizes you’ll need to fussy cut. Our ribbon designs use from ¼ yard to ½ yard each. We suggest starting with full yard lengths so you can a) precisely fussy cut the very best part of the motif, and b) make more than one card case! As mentioned above, this is a great project to make from the bundles you receive as part of the Renaissance Ribbons’ Ribbon Lovers' Club

  • Mini Case #1
    Renaissance Ribbon:
  • ¼ yard of 1½” wide Squirrels in Pink by Tula Pink
  • ½ yard of 1” wide French Grosgrain in Camel
  • TWO Fat Quarters: Farmer’s Daughter by Lella Boutique for Moda Fabrics in Shabby Dots Pink and Fancy Scallops Pink

  • Mini Case #2
    Renaissance Ribbon:
  • ¼ yard of ” wide Reversible Turquoise & Purple Arrows by Sue Spargo
  • ¼ yard of 1” wide French Grosgrain in Aqua
  • ½ yard of 1” wide French Grosgrain in Pewter
  • TWO Fat Eighths: Reef by Elizabeth Hartman for Robert Kaufman Fabrics in Strands Spruce and Twigs Teal

  • Mini Case #3
    Renaissance Ribbon:
  • ½ yard of ” wide Turquoise & Orange Mini Stripes by Sue Spargo
  • ¼ yard of ” wide Folk Tails Tortoise in Turquoise by Sue Spargo
  • TWO Fat Eighths: Blueberry Park by Karen Lewis Textiles for Robert Kaufman Fabrics in Dotty Sunflowers Hibiscus and Rough Patch Cyprus

  • Mini Case #4
    Renaissance Ribbon:
  • ¼ yard of ” wide Anchors Aweigh in Blue and Green by Tula Pink
  • ¼ yard of 1½” wide Octogarden in Blue by Tula Pink
  • TWO Fat Quarters: True Colors by Heather Bailey and Jeanne Morrison for FreeSpirit Fabrics in Chevron Olive and Leaves Emerald

    Other supplies for EACH case:
  • ONE mini snap (apx. ½”/12mm); we used Dritz Mini Anorak Snaps in brass and nickel and a Babyville plastic snap
  • Snap setting tools as required for your chosen snap
  • Scrap or yard of mid-weight fusible interfacing for the one main base panel; we used Pellon Décor Bond
  • Scrap or ¼ yard of lightweight fusible interfacing for one main base panels and both pockets; we used Pellon Shape-Flex
  • All purpose thread to match fabric and ribbon
  • Monofilament thread for ribbon stitching; optional, but our recommendation for the best finish; we used Aurifil Monofilament in Clear — you can also use matching all purpose thread to stitch the ribbon in place
  • See-through ruler
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Seam gauge
  • Seam ripper
  • Scissors 
  • Rotary cutter and mat
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Straight pins
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Small hammer to set snaps
  • Heavy metal, stone or wooden block to use as a hammering surface

Getting Started and Pattern Downloads

  1. Download and print out our TWO pattern sheets: 2575-Card and Card Case Pockets and Tab, which have been bundled into one PDF to make the download easier. 
    IMPORTANT: Each pattern page is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
  2. Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line. 
  3. Assemble Accordion Pocket Parts A and B. Following the arrows on the pattern pieces, butt them together (do not overlap) and tape to create the full pattern.
  4. In all cases, remember to transfer all the pattern markings onto the fabric.
  5. From the fabric for the main base panels and the tab, cut the following:
    Using the pattern, cut ONE snap tab
    Using the pattern, cut ONE exterior panel and ONE interior panel
    NOTE: These two panels are exactly the same height and width. We’ve provided two pattern pieces to help you keep track and correctly mark the exterior for the snap placement.
  6. From the fabric for the pockets, cut the following:
    Using the assembled Accordion pocket pattern, cut ONE on the fold

    Using the Single pocket pattern cut TWO
  7. From the lightweight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
    ONE Accordion pocket panel – just one half; use the pattern to cut along the fold line rather than cutting on the fold
    ONE Single pocket panel
  8. From the mid-weight fusible interfacing, using the patterns but cutting along the dotted seam allowance line rather than the outer solid line, cut the following:
    ONE main base panel
    ONE snap tab reinforcing square
  9. For Mini Cases #1, #2, and #3, cut the ribbon into 4½”+ lengths. We added the “+” because it’s a good idea to cut the lengths a bit longer than the true with of the fabric panel. This way, if there is any shifting as you stitch all the layers in place, you’ll have more than enough to work with side to side and won’t end up with any gaps at the edges. As you’ll see below, once all the ribbon in stitched in place, any ragged ends are trimmed flush with the fabric panels.
    Mini Case #1: FOUR solid lengths and TWO patterned lengths
    Mini Case #2: FOUR solid lengths of the base color, TWO solid lengths of the accent color, and TWO patterned lengths
    Mini Case #3: FOUR lengths of the narrower ribbon and TWO lengths of the wider ribbon
  10. For Case #4, keep the ribbons as one length; they’ll be positioned and cut to fit below.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Apply the front accent ribbons

  1. Find the front exterior base panel and the panel of mid-weight fusible interfacing.
  2. Slice the interfacing in half horizontally.
  3. Center the two pieces of interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so there is ¼” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing all around. The two pieces should butt almost together at the center horizontal line. This “crack” allows the mid-weight interfacing to better fold into its final position. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.

  4. Place the fused panel right side up on your work surface and collect your ribbons.
  5. For Mini Cases #1 and #2 we layered ribbons for a unique “banded” look. The drawing above details the process.
  6. Find the horizontal center of the fabric panel. We simply folded the panel in half to set a center crease line. Measure ½” above and ½” below the center line. Place a base ribbon at each of these points. Make sure they are parallel with 1” in between.

    NOTE: The drawings above show our placement. The key things to remember are a) to leave at least ¾” - 1” free through the center of the panel for a clean fold, and b) to leave enough room at the top for the snap insertion. There is a snap placement marking target on our pattern piece, but it’s always best to confirm the position with your actual snap.
  7. Thread the machine with thread to best match the ribbon in the top and bobbin or use our favorite option: clear monofilament ribbon.
  8. Stitch the base ribbons in place along both sides.

  9. Overlap the second of each of the base ribbon pairs so the combined height is approximately 1¾”.
  10. Stitch the base ribbons in place along both sides.

    NOTE: As noted above, these measurements are customized to our chosen ribbon. You may need to overlap more or less. Practice with your chosen ribbon prior to stitching in place to get the layering reveal that looks the best to you.
  11. Case #1: Center a patterned ribbon on top of each base ribbon pair.
    NOTE: If you have a directional ribbon, such as our adorable Tula Pink Squirrels, pay particular attention to the placement of your two featured ribbons. As shown in the drawing above, the feature ribbon at the “bottom” (where the snap tab extends) is right side up; the feature ribbon at the “top” is upside down.

  12. Stitch each feature ribbon in place along both sides.

  13. Trim any excess ribbon flush with the main panel.

  14. Case #2: Stitch the overlapping base ribbons in place in the same manner as Case #1.
  15. Center an accent solid ribbon on top of each base ribbon pair.
  16. Stitch each accent solid ribbon in place along both sides.
  17. Center a narrow feature ribbon on top of the layered stack.
  18. Stitch each feature ribbon in place along both sides.
  19. Case #3: There is no stacking with this design; the ribbons are simply butted together side by side. Center one trio of ribbons in the top half of the panel and one trio in the bottom half of the panel.
  20. Remember, as noted above, if you’re using a directional ribbon, it should be placed right side up in the bottom half and upside down in the top half.
  21. Case #4: This is assembled in the same manner as Case #3 except the ribbons are placed on the diagonal rather than horizontally. With our ribbons, our bottom point is approximately 1½” up form the bottom left corner of the panel and approximately ½” down from the top right corner.
  22. Stitch each feature ribbon in place along both sides.

Create the snap tab and set the top snap half

  1. Find the snap tab panel and the small square of mid-weight fusible interfacing. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric panel within one half.
  2. Fold the tab in half, right sides together.

  3. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch along both sides. The end remains open and raw.

  4. Clip the corners and turn the tab right side out through the open end.
  5. Push out the corners with a long, blunt tool so they are nice and sharp. A knitting needle, chopstick or point turner works well for this. Press flat.
  6. Find the exterior panel, which should have all its ribbons stitched in place.
  7. Pin the tab into position at the bottom of the panel. The tab should be centered side to side and the raw edges of the tab should be flush with the bottom raw edge of the panel.

  8. Use the original exterior base pattern as a guide for the upper half of the snap placement.

  9. Set the post half of the snap in position from back to front.

    NOTE: If you are brand new to working with snaps, with have two great tutorials you can review prior to starting this project: How To Insert Metal Snaps in Fabric and How to Attach Babyville Plastic Snap Sets.
  10. Set aside the finished exterior panel.

Create and place the single pocket

  1. Find the two panels for the single pocket and the one piece of lightweight interfacing.

  2. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to one side of one of the fabric panels.
  3. Place the two panels right sides together. All raw edges should be flush. Pin along the top “V” edge only.
  4. Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin.
  5. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch across the top “V” edge only.

  6. Clip into the “V” and press open the seam allowance.

  7. Fold the pocket panels wrong sides together and press flat.
  8. Find the interior base panel and the matching panel of the lightweight interfacing. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so all edges are flush. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
  9. Place the fused panel right side up on your work surface. Place the pocket, also right side up, along the top of the panel, aligning the raw side and bottom edges of the pocket with the raw sides and top edge of the fabric panel. Pin in place.

  10. Baste in place along the sides and bottom of the pocket, staying very close to the raw edge – remember, it’s just a ¼” seam allowance to finish.

Create and place the accordion pocket

  1. Find the accordion pocket panel and the matching half panel of lightweight fusible interfacing. Center the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so the long straight edge is aligned with the center fold of the fabric panel and the remaining sides are flush. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
  2. Fold the fused panel in half, right sides together, and pin along the top edge only (the long raw edge with the “V” notch).

  3. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch along the top edge only, creating a tube that is open on both ends. Remember to stitch into the center “V”, pivot, then stitch back out.

  4. Clip into the “V” and press open the seam allowance.
  5. Turn right side out through one of the open ends. Press flat.
  6. If necessary, re-mark the two outer vertical stitch lines, using the paper pattern as your guide.

  7. With the “V” notch the center, fold the panel in half. Align the marks for those two vertical stitch lines.

  8. Stitch one vertical seam at the aligned points through all the layers.

  9. Near the bottom of the main base panel, align each raw side edge of the stitched pocket with each raw side edge of the fabric panel. Pin each side edge in place. The bottom folded edge of the pocket should sit ” up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel.

  10. Below is an aerial view of the pocket to better show the raw edges pinned in place and that original vertical seam smack dab in the center.

  11. Staying very close to the edge, baste each side edge of the pocket in place.

  12. Flatten the pocket, creating the front accordion pleat.
  13. Double check that the bottom folded layers are still parallel to and ” up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel. Pin the bottom edge in place.
  14. Edgestitch across the bottom edge of the pocket through all the layers.

  15. Fold in and pin each side of the front accordion pocket in order to keep it out of the way of the final perimeter seam. The bottom corners are secured, but the sides should be completely free and so can easily be folded out of the way.

Stitch front to back to finish and add the final snap half

  1. Pin the front and back panels right sides together, sandwiching the pockets between the layers. Remember, the bottom snap tab should also be sandwiched between the layers. The front and back panels should be flush all around. Pin in place, leaving an small opening along the center of one side for turning.

  2. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch all around, pivoting at the corners and locking the seam at either side of the opening.

  3. You may want to consider switching to a Zipper foot in order to better insure you can easily stitch past the snaps top and bottom.

  4. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowance.

  5. Gently turn right side out through the opening.

  6. Push out the corners with a long blunt tool to insure they are as sharp and square as possible. Un-pin the front accordion pocket. Pull the snap tab out and down into position. Press super flat, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
  7. Hand stitch the opening closed.

  8. Press flat again with a burst of steam. Then fold in half and press again to set the center crease.
  9. When folded, the snap tab should be directly behind the set snap half.

  10. You can place the original paper pattern over the tab to double check the position.

  11. Remember, the tab wraps around the bottom of the folded case to snap. Double and triple check that the snap in inserted in the correct direction so the two halves will seal.
  12. Set the cap half of the snap from front to back.


Project Design: Alicia Thommas   
Sample Creation and Instructional Notes: Debbie Guild



Comments (6)

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@BillieF - Near the top of the instructions is the section called Getting Started and Pattern Downloads. The link for the pattern is the first item in this section. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Deb - Excellent idea - they're a great mini size to pop into your pocket or handbag.

Gran Louise said:
Gran Louise's picture

Thank you - these are great for those "hard to buy for" teenagers who prefer a gift card.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Gran Louise - Yes! They make a gift card much more personal - and the case can be re-used later as a tiny wallet.