Gift card, credit card, business card; this three-pocket mini wallet holds them all. We used pre-cuts, highlighted with stunning ribbon. You can create multiple cases with a single one-yard length, mixing and matching with fabric scraps or pre-cuts you have on hand. They are a fun and easy project you can finish in an afternoon and a gorgeous gift idea. 

We created four different samples to show how easy it is to create a unique look for each recipient and every occasion. From sweet and pretty to bold and graphic to cute and colorful for kids. Drop in a gift card and/or cash and/or a secret love note; it’s an all-in-one gift that can be re-used as a mini-wallet or business card holder later on.

We’ve provided a free pattern download set to make it extra easy to insure everything fits together front to back.

As mentioned above, we blended pre-cuts and ribbon for lots of great variety. We chose Renaissance Ribbons. Take a spin through their site to find your favorites from some the industry’s most popular designers, like Tula Pink, Sue Spargo, Kaffe Fassett, French General, and more. 

Each case has three inside pockets. There’s one standard pocket at the top, and a clever accordion pocket along the bottom that expands outward into two handy sections. The front pockets have a center “V” notch that makes it easy to grab and pull out your card.

If you’re a regular S4H visitor, you know we’re big fans of Renaissance Ribbons. Their woven jacquard ribbons are simply the brightest, most beautiful ribbon we’ve ever found. Because of this vibrant color palette, we prefer to stitch them in place with a monofilament thread in the top and bobbin for a nearly invisible finish. This is not mandatory, but it is a nicer look against the ribbon.

For best results, you may need to loosen your upper tension slightly. It’s also a good idea to lengthen your stitch and sew at a slow and even pace. This type of thread does not stretch as well as regular thread and can break more easily under pressure, especially if it accidentally slides off the spool and wraps around the spool pin. Using a spool cap against the spool helps hold it in place on the pin, and again, going slowly and evenly helps the thread to feed correctly off the spool. Finally, always sew in the same direction along both sides of the ribbon. This will help prevent any shifting and puckering. If you’d prefer not to use invisible thread, choose colors that very closely match your ribbon, and take the time to re-thread as often as needed to maintain a perfect match.

Our Mini Card Cases finish at approximately 4” wide x 6” high when open and flat and 4” x 3” when snapped closed.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• Zipper foot; optional but helpful for the narrow stitching past the snaps
• Quarter Inch Seam foot; optional but helpful as all the seams are ¼”

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: For each Card Case you need just small amounts of ribbon and fabric. We used either two Fat Quarters or two Fat Eighths for each our samples, but scraps would work just as well. We recommend printing out the the patterns first so you can clearly see the sizes you’ll need to fussy cut. Our ribbon designs use from ¼ yard to ½ yard each. We suggest starting with full one-yard lengths so you can a) precisely fussy cut the very best part of the motif, and b) make more than one card case! The illustrations below show sizing details for each our samples.

• Mini Case #1
  Ribbon:
• ¼ yard of 1½” wide decorative ribbon
• ½ yard of 1” wide solid ribbon
  Fabric:
• TWO Fat Quarters
• Mini Case #2
  Ribbon:
• ¼ yard of ⅜” wide decorative ribbon
• ¼ yard of 1” wide solid ribbon in one color (Aqua on our sample)
• ½ yard of 1” wide solid ribbon in a second color (Pewter on our sample) 
  Fabric:
• TWO Fat Eighths
• Mini Case #3
  Ribbon:
• ½ yard of ⅜” wide decorative ribbon
• ¼ yard of ⅝” wide decorative ribbon
  Fabric:
• TWO Fat Eighths:
• Mini Case #4
  Ribbon:
• ¼ yard of ⅝” wide decorative ribbon
• ¼ yard of 1½” wide decorative ribbon
  Fabric:
• TWO Fat Quarters Other supplies for EACH case:
• ONE mini snap (apx. ½”/12mm); we used Dritz Mini Anorak Snaps in brass and nickel and a Babyville plastic snap
• Snap setting tools as required for your chosen snap
• Scrap or ⅛ yard of mid-weight fusible interfacing for the one main base panel; we used Pellon Décor Bond
• Scrap or ¼ yard of lightweight fusible interfacing for one main base panels and both pockets; we used Pellon Shape-Flex
• All purpose thread to match fabric and ribbon
• Monofilament thread for ribbon stitching; optional, but our recommendation for the best finish; we used Aurifil Monofilament in Clear — you can also use matching all purpose thread to stitch the ribbon in place
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Scissors 
• Rotary cutter and mat
• Iron and ironing board
• Straight pins
• Hand sewing needle
• Small hammer to set snaps
• Heavy metal, stone or wooden block to use as a hammering surface

Getting Started and Pattern Downloads

1. DOWNLOAD PATTERN: Download and print out our TWO pattern sheets, which have been bundled into one PDF to make the download easier. 
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern page is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line. 
3. Assemble Accordion Pocket Parts A and B. Following the arrows on the pattern pieces, butt them together (do not overlap) and tape to create the full pattern.
4. In all cases, remember to transfer all the pattern markings onto the fabric.
5. From the fabric for the main base panels and the tab, cut the following:
   Using the pattern, cut ONE snap tab
   Using the pattern, cut ONE exterior panel and ONE interior panel
   NOTE: Yes, these two panels are exactly the same height and width. We’ve provided two pattern pieces to help you keep track and correctly mark the exterior for the snap placement.
6. From the fabric for the pockets, cut the following:
   Using the Single pocket pattern cut TWO
   Using the assembled Accordion pocket pattern, cut ONE on the fold
   
7. From the lightweight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   ONE Accordion pocket panel – but just one half; use the pattern to cut along the fold line rather than cutting on the fold
   ONE Single pocket panel
8. From the mid-weight fusible interfacing, using the patterns but cutting along the dotted seam allowance line rather than the outer solid line, cut the following:
   ONE main base panel
   ONE snap tab reinforcing square
9. For Mini Cases #1, #2, and #3, cut the ribbon into 4½”+ lengths. We added the “+” because it’s a good idea to cut the lengths a bit longer than the true width of the fabric panel. This way, if there is any shifting as you stitch all the layers in place, you’ll have more than enough to work with side to side and won’t end up with any gaps at the edges. As you’ll see below, once all the ribbon in stitched in place, any ragged ends are trimmed flush with the fabric panels.
   Mini Case #1: FOUR solid lengths and TWO patterned lengths
   Mini Case #2: FOUR solid lengths of the base color, TWO solid lengths of the accent color, and TWO patterned lengths
   Mini Case #3: FOUR lengths of the narrower ribbon and TWO lengths of the wider ribbon
   Mini Case #4: keep the ribbons as one length; they’ll be positioned and cut to fit below.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Apply the front accent ribbons

1. Find the front exterior base panel and the panel of mid-weight fusible interfacing.
2. Slice the interfacing in half horizontally.
3. Center the two pieces of interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so there is ¼” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing all around. The two pieces should butt almost together at the center horizontal line. This slight “crack” allows the mid-weight interfacing to better fold into its final position. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
   
4. Place the fused panel right side up on your work surface and collect your ribbons.
5. For Mini Cases #1 and #2 we layered ribbons for a unique “banded” look. The drawing above details the process.
6. Find the horizontal center of the fabric panel. We simply folded the panel in half to set a center crease line. Measure ½” above and ½” below the center line. Place a base ribbon at each of these points. Make sure they are parallel with 1” in between.
   
   NOTE: The drawings above show our placement. The key things to remember are a) to leave at least ¾” – 1” free through the center of the panel for a clean fold, and b) to leave enough room at the top for the snap insertion. There is a snap placement marking target on our pattern piece, but it’s always best to confirm the position with your actual snap.
7. Thread the machine with thread to best match the ribbon in the top and bobbin or use our favorite option: clear monofilament thread.
8. Stitch the base ribbons in place along both sides.
   
9. Overlap the second of each of the base ribbon pairs so the combined height is approximately 1¾”.
   
10. Stitch the base ribbons in place along both sides.
    
    NOTE: As noted above, these measurements are customized to our chosen ribbon. You may need to overlap more or less. Practice with your chosen ribbon prior to stitching in place to get the layering reveal that looks the best to you.
11. Case #1: Center a wide decorative ribbon on top of each base ribbon pair.
    NOTE: If you have a directional ribbon, such as our adorable Tula Pink Squirrels, pay particular attention to the placement of your two featured ribbons. As shown in the drawing above and the photo below, the feature ribbon at the “bottom” (where the snap tab extends) is right side up; the feature ribbon at the “top” is upside down.
    
12. Stitch each feature ribbon in place along both sides.
    
13. Trim any excess ribbon flush with the main panel.
    
14. Case #2: Stitch the overlapping base ribbons in place in the same manner as Case #1.
15. Center an accent solid ribbon on top of each base ribbon pair.
16. Stitch each accent solid ribbon in place along both sides.
17. Center a narrow feature ribbon on top of the layered stack.
18. Stitch each feature ribbon in place along both sides.
19. Case #3: There is no stacking with this design; the ribbons are simply butted together side by side. Center one trio of ribbons in the top half of the panel and one trio in the bottom half of the panel.
20. Remember, as noted above, if you’re using a directional ribbon, it should be placed right side up in the bottom half and upside down in the top half.
21. Case #4: This is assembled in the same manner as Case #3 except the ribbons are placed on the diagonal rather than horizontally. With our ribbons, our bottom point is approximately 1½” up form the bottom left corner of the panel and approximately ½” down from the top right corner.
22. Stitch each feature ribbon in place along both sides.

Create the snap tab and set the top snap half

1. Find the snap tab panel and the small square of mid-weight fusible interfacing. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric panel within one half.
2. Fold the tab in half, right sides together.
   
3. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch along both sides. The end remains open and raw.
   
4. Clip the corners and turn the tab right side out through the open end.
5. Push out the corners with a long, blunt tool so they are nice and sharp. A knitting needle, chopstick or point turner works well for this. Press flat.
6. Find the exterior panel, which should have all its ribbons stitched in place.
7. Pin the tab into position at the bottom of the panel. The tab should be centered side to side and the raw edges of the tab should be flush with the bottom raw edge of the panel.
   
8. Use the original exterior base pattern as a guide for the placement of the upper half of the snap.
   
9. Set the post half of the snap in position from back to front.
   
   NOTE: If you are brand new to working with snaps, with have two great tutorials you can review prior to starting this project: How To Insert Metal Snaps in Fabric and How to Attach Babyville Plastic Snap Sets.
10. Set aside the finished exterior panel.
    

Create and place the single pocket

1. Find the two panels for the single pocket and the one piece of lightweight interfacing.
   
2. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to one side of one of the fabric panels.
3. Place the two panels right sides together. All raw edges should be flush. Pin along the top “V” edge only.
4. Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin.
5. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch across the top “V” edge only.
   
6. Clip into the “V” and press open the seam allowance.
   
7. Fold the pocket panels wrong sides together and press flat.
8. Find the interior base panel and the matching panel of the lightweight interfacing. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so all edges are flush. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
9. Place the fused panel right side up on your work surface. Place the pocket, also right side up, along the top of the panel, aligning the raw side and bottom edges of the pocket with the raw sides and top edge of the fabric panel. Pin in place.
   
10. Baste in place along the sides and bottom of the pocket, staying very close to the raw edge – remember, it’s just a ¼” seam allowance to finish.
    

Create and place the accordion pocket

1. Find the accordion pocket panel and the matching half panel of lightweight fusible interfacing. Center the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so the long straight edge is aligned with the center fold of the fabric panel and the remaining sides are flush. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
2. Fold the fused panel in half, right sides together, and pin along the top edge only (the long raw edge with the “V” notch).
   
3. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch along the top edge only, creating a tube that is open on both ends. Remember to stitch into the center “V”, pivot, then stitch back out.
   
4. Clip into the “V” and press open the seam allowance.
   
5. Turn right side out through one of the open ends. Press flat.
6. If necessary, re-mark the two outer vertical stitch lines, using the paper pattern as your guide.
   
7. With the “V” notch the center, fold the panel in half. Align the marks for those two vertical stitch lines.
   
8. Stitch one vertical seam at the aligned points through all the layers.
   
9. Near the bottom of the main base panel, align each raw side edge of the stitched pocket with each raw side edge of the fabric panel. Pin each side edge in place. The bottom folded edge of the pocket should sit ⅜” up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel.
   
10. Below is an aerial view of the pocket to better show the raw edges pinned in place and that original vertical seam smack dab in the center.
    
11. Staying very close to the edge, baste each side edge of the pocket in place. You can see we folded the front out of the way of this basting.
    
12. Flatten the pocket, creating the front accordion pleat.
13. Double check that the bottom folded layers are still parallel to and ⅜” up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel. Pin the bottom edge in place.
    
14. Edgestitch across the bottom edge of the pocket through all the layers.
    
15. Fold in and pin each side of the front accordion pocket in order to keep it out of the way of the final perimeter seam. The bottom corners are secured, but the sides should be completely free and so can easily be folded out of the way.
    

Stitch front to back to finish and add the final snap half

1. Pin the front and back panels right sides together, sandwiching the pockets between the layers. Remember, the bottom snap tab should also be sandwiched between the layers. The front and back panels should be flush all around. Pin in place, leaving a small opening along the center of one side for turning.
   
2. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch all around, pivoting at the corners and locking the seam at either side of the opening.
   
3. You may want to consider switching to a Zipper foot in order to better insure you can easily stitch past the top snap top.
   
4. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowance.
   
5. Gently turn right side out through the opening.
   
6. Push out the corners with a long blunt tool to insure they are as sharp and square as possible. Un-pin the front accordion pocket. Pull the snap tab out and down into position. Press super flat, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
7. Hand stitch the opening closed.
   
8. Press flat again with a burst of steam. Then fold in half and press again to set the center crease.
9. When folded, the snap tab should be directly behind the set snap half.
   
10. You can place the original paper pattern over the tab to double check the position.
    
11. Remember, the tab wraps around the bottom of the folded case to snap. Double and triple check that the snap is inserted in the correct direction so the two halves will seal.
12. Set the cap half of the snap from front to back.
    

Project Design: Alicia Thommas   
Sample Creation and Instructional Notes: Debbie Guild