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Queen Quilt Fat Quarter Cut-Up

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A beautiful quilt thrown across a country fence to catch the golden summer sun and a gentle breeze. A pretty picture to be sure. But even better is the fact that this quilt tutorial is simply the easiest way ever to make a queen-size quilt! It's perfect for a beginner. The Fat Quarters, which we cut for our blocks, make it look like you've been saving scraps for years. And, a machine-stitched binding keeps the overall time requirement pretty darn low. 

Our sample features the softly nostalgic Fresh Cottons collection from Joanna Figueroa of Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics. This collection came out in the summer of 2010, but can still be found here and there. We located some at QuiltHome.

Our quilt finished at approximately 92" wide x 96" long.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

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  • 18 Fat Quarters (If you choose not to use a Fat Quarter Bundle, you'll need to cut eighteen pieces that measure 18" x 22"): we used Joanna Figueroa's Fresh Cottons Fat Quarter Bundle by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics
  • 9½ yards of a 44-45" wide coordinating solid fabric for sashing strips and backing: we used Moda's Bella Solids in Natural
  • 3 yards of a second 44-45" wide coordinating solid fabric for sashing strips and binding: we used Moda's Bella Solids in Ivory
  • King size quilt batting
    NOTE: Batting comes in a variety of options both off the bolt and packaged. You want a cut just a bit larger than your quilt top, and in this case the king size will give you more than enough to work with to layer the top.
  • All purpose thread to match fabrics
  • Quilting thread to match the coordinating solids: we used Natural in the top and Ivory in the bobbin
  • Lots of large safety pins for basting quilt (Fabric stores have special pins just for quilt basting, which you may choose as well)
  • See-through ruler
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Straight pins
  • Tape measure

Getting Started

  1. From EACH of the eighteen fat quarters, cut:
    FOUR 8½" x 8½" squares (you'll end up with 72 total; you'll use 64)
    TWO 8½" x 3½" pieces (you'll end up with 36 total; you'll use 32)
    NOTE: This design efficiently uses up nearly every bit of the Fat Quarter. You have just a tiny bit to spare, which you can use to adjust for any off-grain, dye or selvedge issues.
  2. From the coordinating solid you chose for your sashing and binding (Bella Solids in Ivory in our sample) , cut:
    FIFTY-SIX 4½" x 4½" squares for the sashing
    NINE 2½" x width of the fabric (WOF) strips for the binding
  3. From the coordinating solid you chose for your sashing and backing (Bella Solids in Natural in our sample) , cut:
    ONE HUNDRED-TWENTY 4½" x 8½" rectangles for the sashing and between the blocks
    TWO 96" x WOF pieces for the backing. Essentially, you're just trimming off the selvedges.
  4. Stack up all your pieces into like-sized groups.
  5. Decide which 8½" x 8½" patterned squares you want where on the front of the quilt BEFORE you begin to sew. Do this by laying them out on a flat surface. This is a queen quilt design, so you'll probably have to use the floor; make sure it's clean. Mix and match until you have a layout you find pleasing. Remember, you have 72 squares to work with, but you'll only use 64; this allows you to an extra 8 to work with so you can best avoid duplicate fabrics and/or similar colors side by side. You can follow our pattern or design your own. There's no 'wrong' design; it's all based on what you like best.
    Click to Enlarge
  6. Using the same method, decide in what order you want the 8½" x 3½" patterned pieces that will run down the back of the quilt.
    Click to Enlarge

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

As we've mentioned in some of our other quilting tutorials, when you are doing ' patchwork,' it's super important to be consistent when sewing the pieces together. You should think of it like putting together a puzzle. In the end, all the pieces have to fit together perfectly. Don't worry though, fabric is pretty forgiving. We're lucky enough to sew on Janome machines in the Sew4Home studio, many of which have Cloth Guides. These help you to sew a consistent seam, which is really handy with this type of project. For a quick tip on how to make a DIY cloth guide using Post It® notes, see our Whimsy Quilt project.

This quilt has a traditional ¼" quilting seam allowance throughout. We used our Janome ¼" foot to help maintain a perfectly straight line.

Create the patterned block rows

  1. There are a lot of pieces to keep track of, so work in a specific order, like a grid. We worked from top to bottom and left to right.
  2. Starting with the first patterned row, pin one 4½" x 8½" solid rectangle right sides together with one side of an 8½" x 8½" patterned square. You should have SEVEN pairs in this first row.
  3. Repeat to create the seven pairs (remember, we're working left to right) for the remaining six rows. You will create fifty-six pairs.
  4. Find the SEVENTH pair for each row, and pin the final (the eighth) 8½" x 8½" patterned square to the opposite side of that pair's rectangle. This creates the end unit 'trio' for each row.
  5. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch all pinned seams (the fifty-six pair seams and the additional eight end seams). Press all seams toward the patterned squares.
  6. Now, still keeping track of your original 'grid order,' you'll pin and stitch the pairs together to create your rows. Start with the first square/rectangle pair in the first row, to it pin the next square/rectangle in the sequence, aligning the 8½" sides. Stitch, right sides together, using a ¼" seam allowance.
  7. Repeat, adding one pair at a time until you have the finished row, remembering that your last "pair" is really the "trio" of square/rectangle/square. Again, press all seams toward the patterned squares.
  8. Repeat to create the remaining seven rows. When finished, you'll have eight rows total, each with eight patterned squares and seven solid rectangles.

Create the sashing rows

  1. For those who don't quilt regularly, sashing is the word used for rows of fabric that aren't part of the quilt block rows. It's just a fancy way of talking about the rows in between the colored blocks. The sashing rows in our quilt are made of two fabrics (ivory and natural in our sample) and two shapes: squares and rectangles.
  2. You need EIGHT sashing rows, each made up of eight 4½" x 8½" rectangles and seven 4½" x 4½" squares.
  3. Using a ¼" seam allowance, begin piecing together the first sashing row. Start with a rectangle and match one 4½" side, right sides together, with the side of one square.
  4. Work from left to right, adding one piece at a time (rectangle, share, rectangle, square... ), until you have your full row of eight rectangles and seven squares. Press all seams toward the squares .
  5. Repeat to make the remaining seven sashing rows.

Assemble the patterned block rows and sashing rows into the quilt top

  1. Working from the top sashing row down, pin the first two rows right sides together. The most important thing to remember is to keep your seams in line with one another. It helps to place a pin in the seam to make sure it's lined up on the other side.
  2. Alternate each printed fabric row with a sashing row to assemble the quilt top. Refer to the quilt drawing above for guidance.
  3. Using a ¼" seam allowance, sew the rows together. Press seams flat.
  4. Continue in the same manner until all sixteen rows are sewn together from top to bottom.
    NOTE: When we assembled the rows, you'll remember we pressed the fabric in certain directions above. This now allows us to ‘nest' the seams of the pieces. One seam is pressed in one direction, the opposing seam is pressed in the other direction, and they lay easily against each other. In addition to the 'pinning technique' mentioned above, this will help you to line up the corners so you get ‘perfect points' between the fabric pieces.
  5. When all the rows are stitched in place, if necessary, trim any excess from all sides of the quilt top so the raw edges are flush and square.

Create the backing

  1. Using the same piecing techniques described above, and a ¼" seam allowance, sew 32 of the 3½" x 8½" patterned rectangles together along the 8½" sides to create one long row. You should have figured out the order of the rectangles above. You'll have four left over.
  2. Stitch this patterned row in between the two 96" x WOF solid pieces. The colored fabric strip is sewn along the 96" sides. If your seaming is precise, your one long row of rectangles should end up exactly 96" as shown in the illustration above.

Layer and baste

  1. Find that area again with a lot of available (and clean!) floor space. You need enough room to lay the quilt layers flat.
  2. Lay the quilt backing RIGHT SIDE DOWN on the floor. If you choose, you may use tape on the corners to hold the backing in place.
  3. Layer the quilt batting on top of the backing. The batting will extend beyond the edges of the quilt top and backing. This is okay, you'll trim everything flush when you're done quilting.
  4. Lay the quilt top RIGHT SIDE UP on top of the batting, centering it in the middle of the quilt backing.
  5. Starting in the center, baste the quilt layers together with the safety pins.
  6. Be sure the layers are flat and wrinkle free as you work. Place the safety pins about every 3-5".


  1. Our design has diagonal quilting lines across the quilt.
  2. Place cotton quilting thread in the machine, and wind a bobbin to match the backing fabric.
  3. If you have a walking or even feed foot for your sewing machine, this is a good time to use it. The walking foot will help to feed the layered fabrics evenly, so they don't slip. We were fortunate to use Janome's new Horizon machine, which has the built-in AcuFeed System. Love it!
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    Click to Enlarge
  4. To quilt the fabric and batting layers together, start from one corner, and stitch a line that runs diagonally through each patterned square, continuing through the small solid squares within the sashing. You can see this best within the beauty shots of the quilt above and below the instructions. 
  5. Continue quilting diagonally through the quilt so each patterned square has a diagonal line quilted through it. Work outward from the center of the quilt to avoid bunching.
  6. Rotate the quilt top and stitch a diagonal line from the opposite direction to create an "X" in each patterned square.
  7. When you are finished quilting, trim the edges of the batting and backing so that they are square and flush with the quilt top.

Binding the quilt

  1. Stitch the seven 2½" x WOF solid strips together end-to-end (along the 2½" sides) to create one long strip. Press all seams open.
  2. Press this entire long binding strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
    NOTE: Because this is a beginner quilt, and has a definite front and back, we decided to bind the edge with a machine sewn seam. This is quicker and easier than the more traditional hand-stitched finish. It allows for a clean bound edge on the front with the stitching line only showing on the back.
    If you're brand new to binding, you might want to take a look at these two tutorials to give you a solid, overall understanding of binding techniques:
    How to Make Faux Mitered Corners and Bias Tape: How to Make It & Attach It. Also, since we don't have many photos here, we used this same binding technique on our Door Caddy tutorial; it has quite a few step-by-step photos, which might be helpful for you to review.
  3. Starting in the middle of the bottom edge of the quilt, and working on the FRONT of the quilt, line up the raw edges of the folded binding with the raw edge of quilt. Leave about a 5" tail at the start. Pin in place to the first corner.
  4. Using a ¼" seam allowance, start sewing the binding to the quilt. Go from your starting point (remember to leave that 5" tail) to the first corner.
  5. Stop at the corner. Raise the needle and the pressure foot. Pull the quilt out slightly from under the needle to the left of the machine. You do not need to cut the thread.
  6. Rotate the quilt. To turn the corner, bring the folded edge of your binding up. This automatically creates a pleat and a 90˚ corner. Pin. Line up the next side's raw edge with the raw edges of the binding, working your way towards the next corner. Pin in place about 6".
  7. Place the quilt back under the needle and foot to continue sewing the binding, starting about ¼" in from the top edge.
  8. Stop, with your needle in the down position, to continue your pinning once you get past that first 6".
    NOTE: You can pin all the way to the next corner, or - because it's so big, you can work with small sections of pinning.
  9. Repeat these same steps at each corner.
    NOTE: This is a queen-size quilt and can become a bit unwieldy. Sometimes it's easier to gently roll the quilt to make it easier to handle and maneuver.
  10. When you're approaching where you started, stop about 8" short of this point and back tack. This will allow you space to join your binding end-to-end, and then attach it to the quilt for a clean finish.
  11. With the 5" tail you left at the beginning, and the tail you have at the end, unfold the binding strip and place the two binding tails right sides together.
  12. Determine the point where you can sew a straight seam (just like you did when you joined the binding pieces end-to-end at the start), which will allow your binding to lay flat against quilt. Pin the ends together at this point.
  13. Pull the binding away from the quilt so you can place it under the foot of your sewing machine.
  14. Sew a seam where you pinned the binding. Trim the tails to a ¼" seam allowance. Press open.
  15. The binding should now be a perfect fit flat against the quilt. Press this loose section of the binding in half wrong sides together (into its original shape).
  16. Pin the raw edges of the binding to the remaining raw edge of the quilt.
  17. Finish sewing the binding to the quilt from the point where you stopped to the point where you started, matching your seam lines.
  18. Press the binding up and away from the quilt front.
  19. Fold the folded-edge of the binding over to the back of the quilt, encasing the raw edges of the quilt. Align the folded-edge of the binding so it is just beyond your previous stitching line. Make sure your fold is even all around the edge. You'll probably need to futz with the corners a little bit to get the pleats right. Press in place.
  20. On the front of the quilt, place pins "in the ditch" of the binding seam line, which is just below your original seam line. You will remove the pins as you sew your seam.
  21. Using a straight stitch, sew ‘in the ditch' - again, this is right along and just below your original seam line. Go all the way around the quilt, pivoting at each corner.
    NOTE: You can sew in the ditch with a regular presser foot, you just need to be very careful placing your foot on the fabric and aligning your needle. Then, sew slowly and keep your fabric along running along a needle plate guide line. We're very lucky to have Janome as our signature sponsor, because they have a wonderful Ditch Quilting foot that worked great for this project. It has a handy guide that runs right along the previous seam to keep the ditch stitching perfectly straight.

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NOTE: As we mentioned, this is a faster and easier way to finish your binding. If you want a more traditional quilt binding, use a hand sewing needle and thread to stitch the binding down on the back of the quilt with a whip stitch. If you'd like to review how hand-stitched binding is done, this method was used on our tutorial, Turquoise 2010: Moda's Ruffled Jelly Roll Table Runner.

Contributors :

Project Design: Alicia Thommas

Sample Creation and Instructional Editing: Alison Newman


Comments (46)

Tammy W said:
Tammy W's picture

Just clarifying the batting size.  I understand the pattern recommends using the Warm and Natural Queen size cut which is approximately 90" x 108".  Approximate finish size of quilt for this pattern is 92" x 96".  Does the 2 inch shortage become an issue when putting the layers together or is it negligible? My quilt top after piecing is roughly 92.5" x 96.5" so I will be approximately and 1.25 inches short of batting on each side of the 92 inch length.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Tammy - My goodness - this project is an "oldie buy a goodie" - but folks do still love it. You're right, a queen size pre-cut might be a little tight -- back in the day, many queen batting cuts were 93 x 108, but it is harder to find that now (it's just like Oreos getting smaller!!). If you can buy batting off the bolt in your local area, you could get a custom cut. Otherwise, a king size pre-cut would definitely give you plenty with which to work. Below is a link to a queen cut that is still 93" - but, again, a king would give you plenty. We've acutally made that edit to the insturctions above.

Tammy W said:
Tammy W's picture

Thank you for the prompt reply Liz!
I was pondering the king size batting, but wondered if the folks at Warm and Natural were maybe generous with their measurements and the queen would work.  Hate to take the chance.  Thank you for the link for the other queen batting option.  Have a great week!

Pat C said:
Pat C's picture

I noticed there was no stitching in the ditch in the quilting instructions. Just the quilting across the blocks,what about the sashes do they get stitched ?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Pat C - The quilting does continue through the small solid squares within the sashing, but there is no additional stitching in the ditch. You can see this best within the beauty shots of the quilt above and below the instructions. 

Krystal said:
Krystal's picture

I am making my first quilt and wasn't sure where to begin as far as the math part of it.  This was so helpful.  Thank you for the step by step directions.  I can't wait to see the finished project  :)

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Krystal - You are so welcome - we're happy that you found the help here that you needed. We hope you'll come back often for more inspiration ... and bring all your friends 

Anna Patenaude said:
Anna Patenaude's picture

Hi.  I am making this quilt but I am having a problem understanding creating the backing.  I understand sewing the 32 3 1/2 x 8 1/2 but I don't understand " patterned rectangles together along the 8 1/2 sides to create one long row. " Please explain.  Thanks

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Anna - it sounds like you have it if you understand the sewing of the 32 rectangles. It's just a reminder that you are sewing together along their 8-1/2" sides not their 3-1/2" sides. 

Kareena H. said:
Kareena H.'s picture

Hello! This quilt looks apsolutly beautiful! However, I am confused about the Fat Quarters.  How many fabric patterns do I need? And how to I cut the Fat Quarters?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Kareena - All the info you need is listed in the Supplies section and the Getting Started section. You need 18 different fat quarters to acheive the same look of our sample. The Getting Started steps list all the cut sizes needed from the various fabrics. Have fun!

Alison Maschmeier said:
Alison Maschmeier 's picture

Hi! Great tutorial, but I am confused on how 7 (44") wide pieces being sewn together is enough to bind 92x96.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Alison - Thanks for your note. As you can see by the date, this particular article is an older one - done by a seamstress team member who isn't working on projects for us at the moment so I can't check her original notes. However, just doing the math - you're right. Nine would probably be a better starting amount. We've made the change above. This project has been shared and downloaded so many times, I'm surprised no one has mentioned it previously. It is a plain binding, so easy to extend the length. But ... thanks so much for the heads up. Enjoy!

emile said:
emile's picture

I don't see anywhere the final mesurement of the quilt. What exact size is it.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ emile - It finishes at approximately 92" wide x 96" long.

April Snow Hunt said:
April Snow Hunt's picture

This might sound silly, but what is on the back of the quilt? Is it a sheet, or certain type of fabric or do you patchwork both sides? I am completely new. None of my family has ever quilted either. Thanks!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ April - If you read through all the steps, you'll see that it is a solid cotton fabric. In the supply list it is: "TWO 96" x WOF pieces for the backing. Essentially, you're just trimming off the selvedges." If you are brand, brand new to quilting, you might want to start with a smaller and simpler project. I've included links to a couple simple quilts we feature here and a link to the first in our five-part quilting basics series (from the first one, you can click through to the others). In addition, there are hundreds of sites out there that specialize on nothing but quilting.

April Snow Hunt said:
April Snow Hunt's picture

I have 4 grandchildren under the age of 5, so starting small will definitely work. They will love them no matter what they look like! I am brand, brand I literally just started sewing 4 months ago. I have only done aprons, pillowcases, grocery sacks, scarves & a few little simple dresses for my 4 yr old granddaughter. I don't even know what WOF is (lol, sorry). while I'm here, I have another question. How do you make quilts with that 'wrinkly' look to them? Is it a technique, or a certain type of material? Thank you so much for your time and for the links!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ April - Good for you for launching into the world of sewing. WOF stands for width of fabric :-). I'm not sure I know what you mean by the "wrinkly" look? The act of quilting does give a finished quilt a textured look - perhaps that's what you mean. The denser the quilting, the more texture. If you have time, check out our Quilting Basics series I linked to. It will help a lot of this make more sense. 

jtb said:
jtb's picture

How do I quilt when even after rolling as tight as I can, the quilt does not fit in the tunnel of my machine.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ jtb - Usually, if you’re working on a larger quilt, you should work from the center out, then rotate it to work in the other direction (after rolling the quilt you can try clipping it with bicycle clips or quilt clips to keep it as tight as possible). By doing it this way, you keep the majority of the bulk to the left of your machine where it's the easiest to manage. Other than that, it's really a machine feature issue, which is why many quilters prefer to work on a machine with an extended bed. Maybe you have a friend who has a larger machine. There are also people who specialize is the quilting of quilt tops others have pieced. They usually work on frames with a long arm machine. 

Suzette316 said:
Suzette316's picture

Okay, I know this is an older tute (and I LOVE this quilt by the way and am in the process of making it right now), but I would like to point out one way to save a bit of our precious, expensive fabric for those just finding it as I did. The directions say that if you are not using FQ's to get 18 pieces of fabric and cut them into 18" X 22" pieces. This is unnecessary since you will be cutting these pieces into 8.5" X 8.5" pieces. Just cut them into 17" X 17" inches pieces then subcut those pieces in half vertically, then horizontally - voila!  There are your 8.5" X 8.5" pieces and no waste!

Hope this helps anyone finding and making this lovely quilt! Happy quilting to all!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Suzette316 - thank you for your cutting suggestion on the squares, but don't forget that from each fabric, you also need to cut TWO 8.5" x 3.5" pieces. So you will need more than just the one 17" x 17" piece to start with. We also do always err on the side of suggesting a bit more fabric to account for any off-grain or dye issues, or if you need to center a motif.

Hannah Parks said:
Hannah Parks's picture

Hello! I know this post is a few years old, but I'm hoping someone sees this comment and can help me out. I'm just beginning to learn quilting, and I'd love to make this quilt! Looking over the directions, though, I became confused over the cutting of the fat quarters. The instructions say to cut four 8.5x8.5 and two 8.5x3.5 pieces from each 22x18 fat quarter. How is this possible? Is there a typo, or is there something I'm not catching about the cutting process? Thanks for your help!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Hannah Parks - place the Fat Quarter so it sits 18" wide x 22" high. You will have three rows: the first and second rows are the two 8.5 x 8.5 squares side by side so you've used up 17" x 17" so far. The third row has the two 3.5" x 8.5" pieces side by side 3.5" high x 8.5" wide. So there will be just an inch to spare vertically and about 1.5" horizontally.

Hannah Parks said:
Hannah Parks's picture

Okay, now I can picture it! Math was never my strong suit... Thank you for the clarification! 

Arloa D. said:
Arloa D.'s picture

I have several old feed sacks from when I was living on the farm when I was very young.

 I learned to sew in home ec with these. Now I want to make a quilt of the ones I have been able to find and this quilt looks ideal.

fire girl said:
fire girl's picture

I do want to make this quilt but what was the finished size of this quilt (since queen size can be different depending on what you look up.  thanks so much for your great turtorial.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ fire girl - ours finishes at approximately 92" wide x 96" long.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Mae Blessing - this is an older tutorial; we used a home machine with a long bed - the machine shown in the picture: the Janome Memory Craft 7700QCP. This is an older model and has since been replace with several new longer bed machines by Janome. The new Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP is especially nice:

fire girl said:
fire girl's picture

Thanks so much for your fast response Liz.  I am planning to carry the sashing the outside border or make an outer boarder so this helps.

Pat Menendez said:
Pat Menendez's picture

Can't wait to get started on this.  I am trying to use some of my beautiful fabrics and fat quarters.

Anonymous said:
Anonymous's picture

Gorgeous!  I am going to make one very soon!  Thank you for the wonderful instructions!

Dian said:
Dian's picture
I have fat quarter I've looking for a project. I think this is it. Thanks so much.
Joanna Fig Tree said:
Joanna Fig Tree's picture
Loving this one right now! Sometimes simple is THE way to go. You gals are great! Joanna
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ donna c -- well ... to make a smaller quilt - you'll need to make all the pieces smaller smilies/grin.gif. I don't have this pattern in another size to pass along to you, but you could certainly do the math to cut down each of the pieces. You might also check out our Charm Pack baby quilt, which is quite similar and is based on using the 5" x 5" Charm Pack squares. Have fun!
donna c said:
donna c's picture
what's the best way to make this smaller? i think it would be a great lap or crib quilt project!
MarianneL said:
MarianneL's picture
I've been wanting to give quilting a try and your instructions are so clear that this may be my first project. Thanks!
impatientcajun said:
impatientcajun's picture
I think you thought of everything. love it. Will be using these instructions on my next quilt.
Eva V. said:
Eva V.'s picture
I have to tell you that I am drooling over that machine!! Oh yeah and the quilt is fabulous too smilies/grin.gif
Joan J said:
Joan J's picture
Perfect! I was on the hunt this morning for a fast baby quilt, and here it is. Thanks so much for sharing this pattern!