• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Email
  • Print
Print Friendly, PDF & Email
  • PDF
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Email
  • Print

Micro organization — tiny but mighty! That’s how we feel about these cute key ring clips. Each has a little pocket that is perfectly sized to fit several credit cards, gift cards, your license, a bit of folding money – or a combination of any of the above. The Dritz® snap and swivel hook lets you attach this micro-organization-pocket to a key ring or clip it inside a larger tote. A Dritz® Iron-on Embroidered Letter is the finishing touch that makes it yours! 

We had a lot of fun the with Dritz embroidered letters. Of course, we love our Janome embroidery machines, but if embroidery is not in your budget quite yet, these beautiful letters are a lovely way to go. They come in both serif and sans serif styles. The block (sans serif) letters are 1” in black and white (we used the white block letters for our samples), and the Cooper (serif) letters are ¾” in Red, Silver, and Gold. Plus, this embroidered style of iron-on letter is just one type. Check out the full Dritz category of Iron-On Lettering.

There’s a download below for all three pattern pieces needed to cut your fabric as well as the interfacing.

Two layers of two different types of interfacing between the main layers keeps the folded fob rigid. So even if you turn the pocket upside down, the cards won’t slide out. Pay attention to all our cutting instructions below that show how to keep the interfacing out of the seam allowances and along fold line.

We love using a snap and swivel hook as the fastening pair. The snap allows the pocket to be removable – in case you ever need this super-slim option on its own. The swivel hook not only makes it flexible, it also means you can clip it on to a much wider range of rings, grommets, handles, and more.

Our samples feature the sleek Fashion Swivel Hook in antique brass. But just like the Embroidered Letters above, there are lots of different hooks in various sizes and finishes. We paired the hook with a Mini Anorak Snap in antique brass. These snaps are more heavy duty than traditional metal snaps, which makes them a good choice as the “security snap” for our swivel hook.

Each fob finishes at approximately 4⅛“ high x 2¾“ wide with a 3¾“ deep pocket.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: Supplies shown are for one Credit Card Key Ring

  • ONE 1” Dritz Swivel Hook; we used the Antique Brass Fashion Swivel Hook 
  • ONE 12mm Dritz Heavy Duty Metal Snap (with tools); we used a Mini Anorak Snap in Antique Brass
  • ONE Dritz ¾” – 1” Iron-On Letter; we used a 1” White Block Embroidered Letter
  • Scraps, Layer Cake squares or ⅛ yard cuts of TWO coordinating fabrics for the exterior and interior layers and the swivel hook tab; we used 10” x 10” Layer Cake squares from the Just Another Walk in the Woods collection by Stacy Iest Hsu for Moda Fabrics
    NOTE: ⅛ yard will work if your fabric’s motif is random or horizontal. If you have a strong vertical motif you wish to capture, get ¼ yard.
  • Scrap or ⅛ yard of 18″+ wide heavyweight fusible interfacing for the exterior panel; we used Pellon Deco Fuse
  • Scrap or ⅛ yard of 20”+ wide mid-weight fusible interfacing for the interior panel and the snap tab; we used Pellon Décor Bond
  • All-purpose thread to match fabric
  • See-through ruler
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Seam gauge
  • Seam ripper
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Straight pins

Getting Started and Pattern Downloads

  1. Download and print the Credit Card Key Ring Pattern.These pieces have been bundled into a one-page PDF file to make the download easier.
    IMPORTANT: This pattern is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on the page to confirm your print out is to scale. 
  2. Cut out each of the three patterns along the solid lines.
  3. Layer the two fabrics for the exterior and interior panels wrong sides together, and using the main pattern piece, cut ONE through both layers, yielding two final pieces.

    NOTE: Remember that you will be folding the assembled layers to create the pocket. Keep track of this as you decide which fabric to use. The “back” layer will fold up to be the front of the pocket – onto which you’ll apply the letter. This is especially important to keep in mind if you are fussy cutting your panels. As you can see on our sample that features an animal motif, we fussy cut that layer to center a wily raccoon peeking around our Iron-On Letter. This meant our raccoon was upside down when we cut the panel. In the photo below, the fabric to the left is the “back” layer that will be come the “front” of the pocket and the fabric to the right is the inside of the assembled pocket. The interior layer’s direction will also rotate when finished; because so little of the interior shows when complete, we recommend a random motif for this fabric layer so there’s less confusion about “which way is up.”
  4. From the remaining interior fabric, use the tab pattern piece to cut ONE.
  5. From the optional appliqué fabric, use the diamond pattern piece to cut TWO.
  6. Trim the main pattern piece along the fold line. Then trim along the dotted seam allowance line. Use these two trimmed patterns to cut ONE of EACH from the heavyweight interfacing AND the mid-weight interfacing.
  7. Finally, trim 1/16” along the fold line edge of each of the four interfacing pieces.
    NOTE: This additional trimming will create a tiny gap between the two pieces when fused in place. This gap is what allows the pocket to smoothly fold into position. 
  8. Trim the snap tab pattern in half then along the solid lines as shown in the photo below. Use this trimmed pattern to cut ONE from the mid-weight interfacing.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Create the snap tab

  1. Find the snap tab fabric and the small snap tab interfacing piece.
  2. On the fabric, press back the top and both side raw edges ¼” and press well. The bottom edge is not pressed.
  3. Press in half, wrong sides together, and lightly press to set a center crease line.
  4. Unfold wrong side up so the crease line is visible.
  5. Slide the interfacing into place so one long edge of the interfacing is aligned with the center crease. The bottom edge of the interfacing is flush with the bottom raw edge of the snap tab and the other two edges of the interfacing butt up against the inside of the folded fabric. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
  6. Re-fold along the original crease line, making sure the folded edges are flush. Press again.
  7. Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin. Lengthen the stitch slightly.
  8. Edgestitch across the folded end, pivot at the corner, and continue down the side with the aligned folded edges.
  9. Set aside the snap tab.

Create the diamond appliqué

  1. Find the exterior panel and the two pieces of heavyweight interfacing.
  2. Position the interfacing against the wrong side of the fabric panel so there is ¼” of fabric extending beyond the interfacing on the outer edges and approximately ⅛” of fabric between the interfacing along the fold line. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
  3. Set aside the fused panel.
  4. Find the two diamond pieces. Place them right sides together so all raw edges are flush.
  5. If necessary, re-thread the machine with thread to best match the appliqué fabric in the top and bobbin. Re-set the stitch length to normal.
  6. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch around all four sides.
  7. Clip the corners of the diamond and press open the seam allowance.
  8. Clip a small X through one layer to create an opening.
  9. Turn the diamond right side out through this opening.
  10. Push out all four points of the diamond so they are nice and sharp. A long, blunt tool is good for this, such as a chopstick, knitting needle or point turner.
  11. Press flat from the front (the side without the opening).

    NOTE: This is a “finished edge appliqué.” The small opening created to turn right side out will be hidden when the diamond is stitched in place. If you are new to this appliqué technique or appliqué in general, check out our full tutorial: How to Appliqué Like a Pro.
  12. Center the Dritz Iron-On Embroidered Letter of your choice on the diamond and fuse in place.

    NOTE: If you choose to not use a diamond background, you can use the paper pattern to position the Dritz Iron-On Embroidered Letter of your choice directly onto the exterior panel. Using the crosshairs on the pattern will insure you position it in the correct place and facing the proper direction. 
  13. If using the diamond background, you’ll also use the paper pattern to position it correctly.
  14. Fold the pattern along the horizontal crosshairs printed on the pattern. Center the appliqué along this folded edge.
  15. Remove the paper pattern and pin the appliqué in position. Remember, you should be working on the bottom half of the exterior panel and your letter is upside down at this point.
  16. The machine should still be threaded with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin. Lengthen the stitch slightly.
  17. Edgestitch the diamond in place.
    NOTE: You are stitching through the appliqué itself as well as the fabric and the heavyweight interfacing. Make sure you have a new, sharp needle.

Fuse the interfacing to the interior panel and assemble

  1. Find the interior panel and the two pieces of mid-weight interfacing.
  2. As you did with the exterior panel, position the interfacing against the wrong side of the fabric panel so there is ¼” of fabric extending beyond the interfacing on the outer edges and approximately ⅛” of fabric between of interfacing along the fold line. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
  3. Find the center point along the top edge of the exterior panel. There are also marking dots on the paper pattern to show this position.
  4. Find the snap tab and position it over the center point. The raw edge of the snap tab should be flush with the raw edge of the fabric panel. Pin the tab in place. You can hand or machine baste it in place for extra security.
  5. Place the interior and exterior panels right sides together. Pin around all four sides, leaving an approximate 3” opening along the upper half of one side for turning. Keep track of your positioning as you layer the panels: the appliquéd letter is at the bottom of the exterior panel and the snap tab is sandwiched between the layers at the top.
  6. If necessary, re-thread the machine with thread to best match the panel fabric in the top and bobbin. Re-set the stitch length to normal.
  7. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch around all four sides. Remember to pivot at all four corners and to lock your seam at either side of the 3” opening.
  8. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowance.
  9. Turn the panel right side out through the side opening. The heavyweight interfacing makes it a little tricky to turn, but you can do it! If the interfacing slips a bit in the turning, simply reach in through the opening and reposition it with your fingers. The subsequent ironing will re-fuse it.
  10. Gently push out all the corners so they are nice and sharp. Pull the snap tab out into position. Press flat, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
  11. Lengthen the stitch slightly.
  12. Edgestitch across the top of the pocket, in other words, across the edge just above the appliqué letter.
  13. Fold the panel along the marked fold line. You can use the guide line on the pattern or just “feel” for the break in the interfacing. This fold is not at the exact center of the panel. When folded, the top of the pocket should sit approximately ½” down from the finished tabbed edge of the panel.
  14. Pin the pocket in place.
  15. With the stitch still lengthened, stitch around the entire perimeter of the now folded panel: both sides as well as the top and bottom.

    NOTE: This final perimeter edgestitching is why you stitched the top of the pocket first – now its edgestitching matches the perimeter edgestitching. It is also why the snap is attached last; to make sure you can easily stitch around all four sides without having to maneuver past the snap.

Add the snap

  1. Use the paper pattern to mark the position of the two halves of the snap.
  2. Use the Dritz® Mini Anorak Snap piercing tool to punch a hole at each marked position.
  3. Place the top snap cap in position at the lower hole. Remove the piercing tool. There are four accessories that seat into the cups: two are for the cap and two are for the stud. Make sure you have the correct accessories in place.
  4. Close the Snap Tool to secure the cap top to the bottom through the fabric tab.
  5. Repeat to attach the bottom snap stud in position at the upper hole. Remember to change out the cups to the correct accessories for the stud half of the snap.
  6. Your tab folds over to secure, so make sure your snap halves are facing the right way on both sides of the tab. Below is a picture of the tab from the front…
  7. … and the positioning from the back.
  8. Find the Dritz® Swivel Hook. Slip the tab through the bottom opening of the hook and snap closed to secure.


Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild

Notify of

*Sew4Home reserves the right to restrict comments that don’t relate to the article, contain profanity, personal attacks or promote personal or other business. When commenting, your name will display but your email will not.

Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Translate »

You cannot copy content of this page



Enter your email address below to subscribe to the Sew4Home newsletter. Be the first to see new projects and patterns, helpful techniques, and new resources to enhance your sewing experience.


We will never sell, rent or trade your personal information to third parties.