A fabric gift bag, for the holidays and beyond, certainly needs to be cute, but more importantly… it needs to be fast, ‘cause time’s a’wastin’ and we have gifts to give!

Use your serger or sewing machine to whip up beautiful bags in small, tall, and is-that-for-me jumbo. When flat, the Tall and Narrow bag finishes at 14½” high x 7” wide, the Short and Wide bag finishes at 13” high x 9” wide, and the Jumbo bag finishes at 28” high x 18” wide.

We recommend two layers of quilting cotton to give the bags more stability and less transparency; there will be NO peeking until Santa gives the go-ahead. We used a coordinating solid color for the lining of the jumbo bag, but used the same fabric inside and out for the two smaller bags.

Yardage and cuts are detailed below, giving you the opportunity to first scour your stash for options. If buying new, you can set up an assembly line and whip out a bevy of bags in no time at all.

Set up your serger for a classic balanced wide 3-thread overlock stitch to finish the edges lickety split; this was especially great for the smaller bags. Or, try a bound edge, which was our choice on the jumbo bag. Packaged bias tape makes it so easy. And, if you choose a bright color for the binding, it’s an eye-popping accent that frames the finished bag.

The bags look best with a strong motif running vertically from the top to the bottom. See our notes below on how best to fussy cut to not only get this look, but also to match up your motif front to back. Of course, a random motif would be wonderful as well and would use a bit less fabric. I think I hear those scraps calling.

We love fabric bags because they are pretty, reusable, and fast to fill. Tie them closed with a festive ribbon, and you’re done.

Do you love the Star Pillows tumbling out of the Jumbo Bag? They’re a free S4H project. Click for the instructions and patterns. 

As mentioned above, the Tall + Narrow bag finishes at 14½” high x 7” wide, the Short + Wide bag finishes at 13” high x 9” wide, and the Jumbo bag finishes at 28” high x 18” wide.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing machine and standard presser foot or a Serger set for a balanced wide 3 thread overlock

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: All three bags are designed to have their motif run vertically along each bag’s height. Depending in the fabric you choose, this will determine which way you cut and how much fabric you may need. For example, the “bead garland” motif on the fabric we chose for our jumbo bag ran horizontally across the width of fabric (WOF). So, one yard was just enough to cut our two 28” x 18” panels with the 28” sides running WOF and the 18” sides stacked one right on top of the other. If starting with a vertical motif or a random motif, you may be able to get away with less fabric.

JUMBO BAG

• 1 yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight cotton in a pretty print; we used Garland in Green from the Holly Day collection by Martha Negley for FreeSpirit Fabrics
• 1 yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight cotton in a coordinating solid; we used Aloe from the Kona Cotton collection by Robert Kaufman Fabrics
• 3 yards of extra wide double fold bias tape in a coordinating accent color; we used Wrights binding in Lime Green – this standard binding comes in 3 yard packages, so one package is plenty
• All purpose thread to match the cotton fabric as well as the binding
• Pinking shears; optional to finish the one interior seam allowance

TALL + NARROW BAG

• ½ yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight cotton in a pretty print; we used Santas in Ivory from the Holly Day collection by Martha Negley for FreeSpirit Fabrics
  NOTE: This amount is enough to cut both the exterior and the lining layers.
• Standard serger thread in a color to coordinate with/accent your fabric; we used black
• Wooly Nylon serger thread in a color to coordinate with/accent your fabric; we used black
• Yarn needle; used to finish the ends of the serger stitching
• Seam sealant; optional for the ends of the stitching

SHORT + WIDE BAG

• ½ yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight cotton in a pretty print; we used Santas in Ivory from the Holly Day collection by Martha Negley for FreeSpirit Fabrics
  NOTE: This amount is enough to cut both the exterior and the lining layers.
• Standard serger thread in a color to coordinate with/accent your fabric; we used red
• Wooly Nylon serger thread in a color to coordinate with/accent your fabric; we used red
• Yarn needle; used to finish the ends of the serger stitching
• Seam sealant; optional for the ends of the stitching

ALL BAGS

• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins

Getting Started

JUMBO BAG

1. From the exterior fabric, cut TWO 28” high x 18” wide panels – remember, you want your motif, if directional, to run vertically.
2. From the lining fabric, cut TWO 28” high x 18” wide panels.
   NOTE: You might need to trim off a bit to square your yardage prior to cutting your panels. Because of how the edges will be bound, it’s important your final cuts are straight and true.
   

TALL + NARROW BAG

1. From the fabric for both the exterior and the lining, cut a strip 14½“ wide x the width of the fabric (WOF).
2. Fold this WOF strip wrong sides together, matching the selvedge edges and adjusting the fold so the design elements align.
3. From the doubled fabric, cut TWO sets of panels 7” wide, fussy cutting so the design elements are centered.
   NOTE: If you choose to use two different fabrics, one for the exterior and one for the lining, simply cut TWO 14½”  high x 7” wide panels from each fabric. And, if using a fabric(s) with a random motif, the precise alignment is not as necessary.
   

SHORT + WIDE BAG

1. From the fabric for both the exterior and the lining, cut a strip 13“ wide x the width of the fabric (WOF).
2. Fold this WOF strip wrong sides together, matching the selvedge edges and adjusting the fold so the design elements align.
3. From the doubled fabric, cut TWO sets of panels 9” wide, fussy cutting so the design elements are centered.
   NOTE: If you choose to use two different fabrics, one for the exterior and one for the lining, simply cut TWO 13”  high x 9” wide panels from each fabric. And, if using a fabric(s) with a random motif, the precise alignment is not as necessary.

At Your Sewing Machine and/or Serger & Ironing Board

JUMBO BAG

1. Separate your four 28” x 18” panels into two sets of two with one exterior panel and one lining panel in each set.
2. Pin each pair wrong sides together. All raw edges of both layers should be flush.
3. Cut two 19” lengths of binding.
   
4. Slip the upper 18” raw edges into the binding. The raw edges should sit right up against the fold of the binding.
   
5. Pin the binding in place, making sure it is nice and flat and even front to back on both sets of panels.
   
6. Thread the machine with thread to best match the binding in the top and bobbin and slightly lengthen the stitch.
7. Edgestitch across the top of each set of panels to secure the binding in place. Go slowly to insure you are catching the front and back of the binding in the one seam. The ends of the binding remain raw, and when the stitching is
8. Place the bound front and back panels right sides together, making sure the ends of the binding are aligned.
9. Smooth the layers and pin the bottom raw edges together across the 18” width.
   
10. If necessary, re-thread the machine with thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin. NOTE: This seam will be virtually invisible once the bag is turned right side out, so switching out the thread is not necessary — we kept our binding thread color in place.
11. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across the bottom 18” width through all the layers.
    
12. Finish the seam allowance with your favorite method. We used pinking shears.
    NOTE: If you don’t yet have a favorite, check our our four-part series on Machine Sewn Seam Finishes.
    
13. Turn the bag right side out. Press flat.
14. Cut two 29” lengths of binding.
15. Just like you did with the top binding, each pair of raw side edges should be slipped into one of the lengths of binding and pinned in place.
    
16. At top end of the binding, fold back the raw edge so it is flush with the horizontal binding and creates a clean finish.
    
17. Pin in place.
    
18. Repeat to create the same clean finish at each bottom corner.
19. Edgestitch each side binding in place.
    
20. We suggest stitching across the end of the binding first, then pivoting to stitch along the side, repeating the short finishing stitch at the opposite end.
    

TALL + NARROW BAG

Serger set up

1. Thread your serger for a balanced wide 3-thread overlock, with standard serger thread in the left needle and woolly nylon in the upper and lower loopers.
2. As always, sew some samples and adjust the thread tensions as needed for the best balanced stitch.

Stitching the bag

1. Separate your four 14½” x 7” panels into two sets of two with one exterior panel and one lining panel in each set. Place each pair wrong sides together. All raw edges of both layers should be flush.
2. Place the two pairs of panels side by side and pin the upper edge of each pair. Pins should be placed away from the edge, so they do not interfere with the knives of the serger.
   
3. Start a chain of thread about 3-4” and then serge across the upper edge. Remove the pins as you approach them and trim off just enough to ensure the two layers are even.
   
4. The panels can be chained together (one stitched right after the other), which is a time saver, especially when making a number of gift bags.
   
5. When done, simply clip apart the panels.
   
6. Place the serger panels wrong sides (lining sides) together, aligning all the edges – you are now working with four layers.
7. Pin along both sides, again with the pins placed away from the edge.
   
8. Serge each side.
   
9. Leave an approximately 1-2” thread tail at each bottom corner.
   
10. With three edges done, you’re unlikely to need pins along the bottom, but If needed, remember to keep pins away from the edge.
    
11. Serge across the lower edge.
    
12. Using a yarn needle, thread the tails in between the layers of fabric.
    
13. Use a drop seam sealant to secure the threads.
    
14. Allow to dry, then trim the thread flush with the seam.

SHORT + WIDE BAG

1. This bag is constructed in the same manner as the Tall + Narrow bag. First serge the top of both layered front and back panels.
   
2. Then serge the sides and the bottom
   
3. And finish with a yarn needle to pull the tails through the seam.
   

Project Design: Anne Adams
Sample Creation-Serger Bags: Michele Mishler
Sample Creation-Sewing Machine Bound Bag: Debbie Guild