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Big, Beautiful Diaper Bag
Plenty of room, lots of pockets, PUL lining, adjustable strap… this diaper bag has it all. Plus, most importantly for a bag that’s your constant companion for months: it’s GREAT looking! In fact, it might be hard to give up this pretty bag once your baby has become a more compact traveler. We used a coordinated pair of twill-weight cottons. To this medium weight fabric, we added a fusible interfacing on all the main pieces, and the sides and bottom have the extra stability of fusible fleece. This bag is meant to stand up to heavy daily use!
Part of the appeal of this bag is the beautiful fabric combination. What you choose will depend on the mom-and-dad-to-be and what they’re looking for in terms of style and tone. There are always lots of new fabric options to choose from each season.
There’s a handy elastic topped pocket on one side for easy access to a bottle. The opposite side is flat, so the bag lays more comfortably against you. It’s nice to have a bag without bumps and bulges on every surface.
The lining for this diaper bag is the popular, easy-clean Polyurethane Laminate (PUL). If you’re new to working with PUL, check out our tutorial. There are lots of inner compartments on the lining, some elasticized and some plain, to keep all the baby’s necessities sorted.
This project is a bit more advanced, but we know you can do it! Our top suggestion is always to read all the way through the directions a couple times before starting. We call this “making it in your head.”
For style and function, this diaper bag really does have it all. Make one for yourself or generate a round of spectacular ohhhs and ahhhs with the most popular gift at your next baby shower.
The bag finishes at approximately 14″ x 14″ x 6″.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
Fabric and Other Supplies
- 1½ yards of 54″+ wide medium to heavy weight cotton fabric for the bag exterior and handle top
- ⅝ yard of 54″+ wide medium to heavy weight cotton fabric for the flap lining and handle bottom
- 1¼ yards of 60″+ wide of Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) for the bag lining; we used 1 ml PUL in Optic White
- ⅝ yard of 45″ fusible craft fleece; such as Pellon Fusible Thermolam
- 2 yards 20″+ medium-weight fusible interfacing; such as Pellon Décor Bond
- 4 yards of single fold bias tape in a coordinating accent color; we used mocha
- ONE 6″ x 14″ rectangle of plastic canvas
- 2½ yards ¼” elastic
- ONE ⅞” – 1″ swivel hook for inside key holder
- THREE 1¼” – 1½” rectangular rings
- ONE 1¼” – 1½” rectangular slider
- ONE Magnetic Purse Clasp
- All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabric and binding
- Fabric marking pen or pencil
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- See-through ruler
- Straight pins
- Clips for PUL
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Small safety pin
- Iron and ironing board
Getting Started and Pattern Downloads
- DOWNLOAD AND PRINT: TWO copies of our pattern pieces: Diaper Bag Flap Bottom, Diaper Bag Flap Top, and Diaper Bag Strap Tab, which have been bundled into ONE PDF to make the download easier. You will use BOTH copies of the Flap pattern pieces, but the second Tab pattern piece is extra and can be recycled.
IMPORTANT: Each page in this PDF is f ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
- Cut out each pattern along the solid lines.
- Following the diagram on the Diaper Bag Flap Bottom page, butt together the four pieces to create one full flap pattern. Do NOT overlap. Tape together.
- From the fabric for the bag exterior, cut the following:
TWO 15″ high x 21″ wide side panels
TWO 7″ high x 15″ wide bottom panels
ONE 11″ high x 23″ wide rectangle for the outer pocket
ONE 2½” x 44″ strip for the long strap
ONE 2½” x 12″ strip for the short strap
ONE 3″ x 4″ rectangle for the interior key hook
Using the assembled pattern, cut ONE flap
Using the pattern, cut FOUR strap tabs
- From the fabric for the interior highlights, cut the following:
TWO 3″ x 21″ facings
ONE 2½” x 44″ strip for the long strap
ONE 2½” x 12″ strip for the short strap
Using the assembled pattern, cut ONE flap
- From the PUL, cut the following
TWO 13″ x 21″rectangles for the side panels
ONE 11″ x 27″ rectangle for the pleated pockets
ONE 11″ x 21″ rectangle for the flat pockets
ONE 7″ x 15″ rectangle for the bottom panel
ONE 11″ x 23″ rectangle for the outer pocket
- From the fusible fleece, cut the following:
TWO 15″ x 21″ rectangles for the side panels
ONE 7″ x 15″ rectangle for the bottom panel
- From the fusible interfacing, cut the following:
TWO 3″ x 21″ rectangles for the facings
ONE 11″ x 15″ rectangle for the outer pocket
TWO 2½” x 44″ strips for the long strap
TWO 2½” x 12″ strips for the short strap
Using the assembled pattern, cut TWO flaps
Using the pattern, cut FOUR strap tabs
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- Find the TWO 15″ x 21″ exterior side panels and ONE of the two 7″ x 15″ exterior bottom panels. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of all three pieces.
- Find the four strap strips, the four strap tabs, the two facings, and the two flaps. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse a matching interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of these pieces.
- Find the 11″ x 23″ outer pocket piece. Place it right side down on your ironing board, but make sure the top and bottom edges are correctly oriented. Place the remaining 11″ x 15″ piece of fusible interfacing on the fabric, aligning the left side and the top and bottom edges. This will leave the right side with just fabric showing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
Straps and tabs
- Match each outside strap to its coordinating inside strap (long to long, short to short).
- Sew each pair together, using a ½” seam allowance, leaving one end open on each for turning.
- Trim the seams and clip the corners.
- Turn right side out through the open end.
- Edgestitch along the three sewn sides of each strap.
- Place two of the strap tabs right sides together. Sew together, using a ½” seam allowance along the sides and top. Leave the long straight edge open for turning.
- Trim the seams and clip the corners.
- Turn right side out. Edgestitch along the sewn seam.
- Repeat with the remaining two tabs.
- Slip the tab end through a rectangular ring and fold the end over the ring just enough to allow you room to stitch the end in place (approximately ½”).
- Following the original edgestitching, stitch across the end to secure.
- Repeat with the remaining tab and ring.
NOTE: We used a 1¼” rectangular ring, which caused our tab to have a slight gather; this matched the gathered pocket on either side. If you’d prefer a completely straight tab, get a 1½” rectangular ring (an option mentioned and linked in the supply list above).
Outer pocket and body of the bag
- Cut a length of the single fold bias tape just a bit longer than the top edge of the outer pocket.
- Unfold one edge of this length of bias tape.
- Pin the single layer bias tape to the top raw edge of the outer pocket; the raw edges should be aligned. The wrong side of bias tape is against the right side of fabric.
- Sew the bias tape in place, using a ¼” seam.
- Place the outer pocket (with the binding sewn in place) right side up on your work surface. The interfaced portion of the pocket should be on the right.
- Measure 8½” in from the left edge and draw a vertical line. This will be used as a stitch line to follow to create your pocket.
NOTE: You are working on the right side of the fabric, so make sure to use a fabric pen or pencil that washes away or fades with exposure to the air or the heat of an iron.
- Find the 11″ x 23″ rectangle of PUL for the outer pocket.
- Place the PUL outer pocket and the fabric outer pocket right sides together. Pin in place, keeping the pins within the seam allowance.
- Stitch the two layers together, following along in the original bias tape seam. Remove the pins as you go.
- Fold the PUL to the back so the two pieces are now wrong sides together with a seam along the top edge. Press in place from the front.
- Press down the free, folded edge of the bias tape.
- Edgestitch along the entire free, folded edge of the bias tape through all the layers. You are creating a casing for the elastic.
- Cut a 24″ length of elastic.
- Attach a small safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert the elastic into casing, threading it through until approximately ½” extends out each end. Pin the elastic in place at each end.
- Find one of the two 15″ x 21″ side panels. Place it right side up on your work surface.
- Place the outer pocket piece, also right side up, on top of the side panel. Align the right sides and bottom edges of the two pieces. The opposite edge of the pocket will extend beyond the panel. Pin in place along the right edge.
- Carefully take the two pieces to your sewing machine. Stitch the two layers together along the drawn vertical stitch line, backstitching across the casing to reinforce this point. This vertical seam line is creating the flat portion of the outer pocket.
NOTE: The extreme close-up image below almost makes it appear that there is a break in the bias binding. That is an optical illusion. What you are seeing is the locked seam at the top of the pocket panel – the point where we finished our vertical seam line.
- Take the layers back to your work surface and again lay them right side up.
- Match the left side of the pocket with the left edge of the side panel, and pin in place.
- Along the bottom, create a box pleat to accommodate the fullness, and pin it in place.
- Pull on the left side of the elastic until gathers form and the upper edge of the pocket lays neatly against the side panel.
NOTE: Only pull to gather the left side; this will become the side panel bottle pocket. The remaining elastic should lay flat against the side panel. It is there to act as reinforcement with just a bit of give for the main pocket across the back.
- Machine baste the pocket to the side panel. Start in the left corner at the casing, stitch down, pivot at the bottom left corner, stitch along the bottom edge (across the pleats), pivot at the bottom left corner, stitch up to the top right corner of the casing. This machine basting secures the two layers to one another and secures both the elastic and the pleat in place.
- Trim away the excess elastic.
- Lay the remaining outside side panel right side up on your work surface. It should lay in the finished direction – with the 21″ sides top and bottom and the 15″ sides left and right.
- Mark a vertical stitching line 6½” in from the left edge of the panel. Stitch along the line. This stitching line will help define a corner when you place the base into position.
- Place the two side panels right sides together, aligning the 15″ sides.
- Stitch along both sides through all layers, using a ½” seam allowance. This forms the body of the diaper bag (it is just an open tube at this point – no top or bottom).
Bottom of the bag
- Find the two bottom panels in the exterior fabric. One is fused with the fleece and one is plain.
- Place the bottom panel with the fusible fleece wrong side up on your work surface.
- Fold under one short end (the 7″ end) of the plain bottom panel ½” and press.
- Place the plain fabric panel, right side up, on top of the fleece panel. Align the raw edges of both pieces. The folded back edge of the plain panel will sit ½” back from the base panel’s raw edge.
- Baste the two pieces together along the three raw edges. The short side with the folded edge should not be basted.
NOTE: Both sides of this panel have the fabric right side out, but the side with the folded edge (which forms a little pocket) is now considered the “wrong side” as we move through these next few steps.
- Find the body of the bag. Turn it wrong side out.
- Insert the bottom panel into the bag, aligning the right sides of the bottom of the bag with the right sides of the bottom panel. It’s like setting a lid upside down into a box.
- Match the corners of the bottom panel to the corners of the diaper bag body. Remember, you can use that vertical stitch line to help define one corner as you set the base in place. Pin in place all around, adjusting as necessary and using plenty of pins to insure the panel sits in the bag evenly and square.
- Clip the diaper bag at the corners. You are clipping into the corner at a diagonal at a depth of about ⅜”. This frees up the seam allowance so you can stitch each side of the bag independently.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, sew the bottom panel to the body of the diaper bag. Start and stop ½” in from each corner.
NOTE: When you get to the side with the folded edge, take care to not catch the folded edge in the stitching. This becomes the base panel pocket opening, which will allow you to insert the stiffener that will create the solid bottom of the bag.
- Insert the plastic canvas into the bottom panel ‘pocket.’
- Hand stitch the pocket opening closed.
- Turn the diaper bag right side out.
NOTE: If you are new to inseting a base into a bag, check out our full tutorial: How to Insert a Rectangular Base into a Tube.
- Find the two flap pieces and the remaining single fold bias tape.
- Place the flap lining wrong side up on your work surface.
- Mark the placement for the outer half of the magnetic snap 3″ up from the lower edge and centered side to side. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, or our own helpful snap tutorial, insert this half of the snap.
- Find the diaper bag body. Place it on your work surface with the front (the non-pocket side) facing up. Mark the placement for opposite half of the magnetic snap 4½” down from the upper edge and centered side to side. Again following the manufacturer’s instructions or our tutorial, insert this half of the snap.
- Find the exterior flap.
- Cut a length of the single fold bias tape a couple inches longer than the curved edge of the flap. The straight edge does not get bias tape.
- Unfold one edge of this length of bias tape.
- Pin the single layer bias tape to the curved edge of the exterior flap. The raw unfolded edge of the bias tape should sit ¼” in from the raw edge of the flap. The wrong side of bias tape is against the right side of fabric. This is similar to how you attached the bias tape to the outer pocket above except for how the bias tape is set back from the raw edge of the fabric panel.
- Sew the bias tape in place, using a ½” seam allowance (½” from the raw edge of the fabric).
- Place the flap lining and the flap exterior right sides together, sandwiching the bias tape in between the layers. Pin in place around the curved edge only, leaving the straight edge open.
- Stitch the two layers together, following along in the original bias tape seam.
- Trim the seam back to ¼” and clip the curve.
- Turn the flap right side out through the straight edge opening.
- Press well, pressing down the free, folded edge of the bias tape to the front of the flap.
- Edgestitch along the entire free, folded edge of the bias tape through all the layers.
- Pin the flap in place on the diaper bag, right sides together. The flap is positioned against the back of the bag body, the side with the outer pocket. Align the raw edges of the flap and the bag body, and center the flap side to side within the panel
- Find the two strap tabs.
- Pin one to each side of the bag body. Each tab should be positioned so the raw edges of the tab and the raw edges of the bag body are aligned and the tab is centered side to side within each side section. When each tab is in position, there should be about 1″ of space between the flap and the strap tab.
Inside pockets from the PUL
- Collect all the remaining PUL pieces.
- Find the 11″ x 27″ panel. Fold down ½” along one 27″ side. Topstitch ⅜” from the folded edge to form a small casing. Mark the panel for pockets: place the first vertical line 8½” in from the left raw edge and a second line 9″ from this first line.
- Cut a 28″ length of elastic.
- Attach a small safety pin to one end. With this end, thread the elastic into the casing and pull it through until there is about ½” extending from each end. Pin the elastic in place at each end. The pocket unit should still lay flat at this point.
- Find one of the 13″ x 21″ PUL side panels. Mark this panel for pocket placement: place the first line 6½” from the left raw edge and the second line 7″ from this first line.
- Place the 11″ x 27″ panel with elastic over the 13″ x 21″ panel marked for pocket placement. Both pieces should be right sides facing up (marked sides facing up). The bottom edges of the two pieces should be even.
- Align the first line on the bottom panel with the first line on the top panel and pin in place.
- Stitch along the drawn lines through both layers, back stitching across the elastic to secure it at this point.
- Align the left edges of the two pieces of PUL and pin in place. Unpin the elastic at the left and gently pull, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Re-pin the elastic in place.
- Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the side and across the bottom of the pocket. Trim excess elastic.
- Align the second set of marked vertical lines, the lower edges should still be even. Pin in place. Unpin the elastic at the right and gently pull, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Re-pin the elastic in place. Stitch along the marked vertical line through both layers, back stitching across the elastic. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness and machine baste in place along the bottom edge, stopping at the right-most vertical stitch line.
- Finally, align the right edges and pin in place. Pull the elastic from the right again, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the bottom and up the side of the pocket. Trim the excess elastic.
NOTE: You can wait until all the pockets are adjusted and pinned and then do just one line of machine basting. We did it in steps for those who are new to working with the slippery-ness of PUL. Doing it in stages insures your pockets stay exactly in position.
- Fold down ½” along one long side of the 11″ x 21″ PUL panel. Topstitch ⅜” from the folded edge to form a small casing.
- Cut a 22″ length of elastic.
- Attach a small safety pin to one end. With this end, thread the elastic into the casing with about ½” extending from each end.The pocket unit should lay flat. Pin the elastic in place at each end.
- Mark the panel for pockets: place the first line 6½” from the left edge and a second line 7″ from this first line.
- Find the remaining 13″ x 21″ PUL panel. Mark it for pocket placement: placing the first line 6½” from the left edge and a second line 7″ from this first line.
- Place the 11″ x 21″ elastic casing panel over the 13″ x 21″ panel with both panels right sides facing up. Align the sides and lower edges, and machine baste in place along both sides and across the bottom.
- Align the marked vertical pocket lines on both pieces and pin in place. Stitch along these marked lines through both layers, back stitching across the elastic. Trim the ends of the elastic flush.
NOTE: For this pocket unit, the elastic acts as a stabilizer, but is not gathered.
- Place the two PUL lining panels right sides together and stitch the side seams with a ½” seam.
- With the lining unit still wrong side out, insert and sew the lining bottom panel into the lining body, following the same steps you used above to attach the main bottom panel to the main bag. Remember, we have full tutorial: How to Insert a Rectangular Base into a Tube.
Key hook and facing
- Find the 3″ x 4″ tab piece. Fold under both 4″ sides ½” and press.
- Fold the tab in half so the two folded edges align. Pin in place. Edgestitch along the double folded edges to secure. Run a second line of edgestitching along the opposite single folded side.
- Insert one raw end of the tab through the swivel hook. Fold back the raw end ½” and press, then fold an additional ½” and press again, encasing the raw edges and forming a small hem. Stitch the hem in place as close to the hook as possible.
- Find the two 3″ x 21″ facing pieces.
- Place them right sides together, pinning along the 3″ sides.
- Stitch each side seam, using a ½” seam allowance, to create a ring. Press the seam allowances open. Turn the ring right side out.
- Pin the key hook tab on the right side of the facing, 3″ in from one side seam and with the raw edges of the hook tab and the facing aligned. Machine baste the tab in place approximately ⅜” from the raw edge.
- Find the lining bag. It should be wrong side out.
- With the facing still right side out, slip it into the lining bag so the two layers are now right sides together. Align the top edge of the facing (the edge with the tab basted in place) to the upper edge of the lining. Adjust the ring all around, matching the seams. The ring should lay nice and flat against the lining. The tab should sit above the gathered pockets.
- Sew the facing to the lining all around, using a ½” seam allowance.
- Finger press the lining ring up and away from the lining bag. The seam allowance should be pressed up towards the facing. Edgestitch all around to secure the seam allowance in this up position. Stay as close as possible to the seam on the facing. Remember, you don’t want to use an iron on the PUL. Finger press or use a pressing cloth.
- With the body of the diaper bag wrong side out and the lining right side out, slide the lining inside the bag – so the two pieces are now nested and right sides together.
- Match up the top raw edges all around (the raw edge of the facing with the raw edge of the exterior body of the bag). Align seams and the corners of the bottom panels. The flap and strap tabs are sandwiched between the layers.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, sew the lining to the diaper bag along the upper edge. Leave about a 5″ opening along the back edge for turning the bag.
- Turn the diaper bag right side out. Push the lining down inside the bag, poking the corners of the lining’s bottom panel into the corners of the bag so the bottom lays as flat as possible. Pull up the flap and pull the strap tabs up into place.
- Press, making sure the raw edges of your opening are pressed in so they are flush with the sewn seam.
- With the flap and tabs up and out of the way, edgestitch around the top of the bag, closing the opening you used for turning and finishing the top of the bag (we started and stopped our seam behind one of the strap tabs).
Assemble the adjustable strap
- Find the long and short straps, the remaining rectangle ring, and the slider.
- Insert the raw end of the short strap through the ring. Fold back the raw edge ½” and press, then fold an additional ½” and press again, encasing the raw edges and forming a small hem. Stitch the hem in place as close to the ring as possible.
- Insert the raw end of the long strap through the slider, going around the center bar. As above, fold the raw edge under ½” and then fold ½” again and stitch in place as close to the center bar as possible.
- Place the short strap on the right with its ring facing left (the strap is right side up). Place the long strap on the left with the with the slider also facing to the left. This strap is right side down.
- Pass the finished end of the long strap through the top of the ring. Go in from the bottom and come out over the top.
- Flip the slider over so the full rectangle is visible.
- Thread the finished end of the long strap through the slider, going from right to left, up and over the center bar.
- Adjust the strap to your desired length.
NOTE: If you are having trouble wrapping your head around these steps, take a look at our Adjustable Strap Tutorial (or open your lingerie drawer – most bra straps are made in the same manner.)
- Looking at the assembled bag from the front, attach the short strap on the right and the long strap on the left.
- To attach, simply slip the finished end of the strap through the ring of the strap tab, fold the end to the back approximately ½” and stitch in place. Repeat to attach the second strap.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler
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I’m managing, but I have to admit that a few more photos showing each step would have been really handy. Or a better description for some of the steps of which side you’re supposed to be lining up or which way round the rectangle is supposed to lie. I’m only about half way through so far… and that’s taken me a full day. Tip for anyone else – there’s no way I would have been able to do the straps by leaving the ends open. I left the opening in the middle, it’s much easier to get the ends through… Read more »
Hi Joyce – You’ve picked one of our most popular bags! As we mention above, it is a more advanced project, but this beauty has been made hundreds of times with great success. I think you’ll be so happy with the finished product. Sorry you are struggling a bit, but halfway is almost done, right?! The vertical stitching line simply helps give you a corner edge to help you get the base in nice and straight. We’ll add a little note about this to the instructions above. Although this current version has a 2019 date, the original tutorial was done… Read more »
Thanks for clarifying the vertical stitching line! I made a ‘practice’ one with scrap fabric to understand the process first before using my nicer fabric. I did draw the line to see where it ended up, but it’s a good half inch away from the corner…
Is there a reason the flap isn’t the same width as the bag? I don’t have kids so have no idea if this is normal for a diaper bag or not..
Hi Joyce – sorry everything didn’t match up exactly for you. 3D projects are always interesting as it doesn’t take much variance in cutting or seams to get a little bit off – but it sounds like your prototype turned out well and you were able to get the base in place. Yay! On the flap, it’s sized to be a nice fit side to side when the strap is pulled up and worn over the shoulder. The wide base of the strap fits up against the flap. You can see it in the beauty photos above. That said, there’s… Read more »
is there a video for this? I am just horrible with written instructions but really want to make this.
Hello Victoria – We do not offer full project videos at this time. However, we do try to be extremely detailed with out instructions and photos. Try taking a read through once to “make it in your head.” You might be surprised at what you can do! 🙂
so im almost through it, im just a bit confused on what the swivel hook is for.
Hello Victoria – That’s great news! The swivel clip is for the inside key holder. Scroll through to the section titles: “Key hook and facing”
ahh ok, i see it now. Thank you!!! Just need to go get the hardware and then finish up the last steps. Do you have a facebook group?
Yay! At the top right of every page – within the main black border – are icons to link to us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Pinterest. We’d love to have you follow one or more and post a pic of your beautiful new bag~
I am trying to pin the bottom panels into place. Where are the corners on the bag that you say to clip?
Hi Debbie – Your side bottle pocket will help you visualize one 6″ side. Adjust the “tube” to form the opposite 6″ side – forming the tube into a rectangle. This will reveal your four corners you clip and into which the bottom panel sits. In the steps above, you also stitched a vertical line 6.5″ in from the left side, which is also a helpful guide for forming the “tube” into a “rectangle.”
Thanks for this – only the flap’s but only the flap’s patern seems to be there – other pieces just cut on measurements supplied?
Hi Bespoke Creations – Yes – that is correct. In the Getting Started section, you’ll see that we list the pattern elements contained in the PDF download. All other cuts are done according to the dimensions listed. This is our standard procedure here at S4H: measurements for straight cut pieces, patterns for shaped pieces. Enjoy and let us know how your beautiful big turns out!
Fab bag. i made one for my first granddaughter and my son and daughter-in-law are still using it a year later.
@Lesley – Thank you so much! Great to hear about your success!
since my last feedback I have made another 3 bags. Each time I hear of a new baby on the way I make one for them. They always turn out beautiful and well worth the time and money to make these. (that first one I made is still being used)
Thanks, Lesley! You are making so many new parents happy!