Just when you think you're the reigning 'Queen of Green' – reusing and recycling your way through the day, someone rains on your parade. Two stories hit the media recently about everyone's favorite green choice: the reusable grocery bag. Turns out we should be washing these things after each use or they can become a breeding ground for bacteria. I tried washing the ones I got at my market and they fell apart. Great. Then, another story pops up that shows many of these same bags are coming from overseas and contain potentially unsafe levels of lead. Great x2. Time to make our own: prettier, safer, sturdier. Reclaim your throne, Queen of Green!

You want a substantial fabric for this project, a canvas, heavy cotton duck or an outdoor fabric. We went the outdoor fabric route, which worked and looked great. However, a couple care notes about using outdoor fabrics in this kind of application. One) Normally, outdoor fabrics are not meant to be machine washable. It can remove the protective coatings that help keep them from fading in the sun and molding in the damp. However, I didn't really care about fading or molding; I just wanted a pretty, stable fabric. I cut several smallish (about 9" x 12") swatches and washed and dried them several times. They turned out great. Two) Of the two fabrics we used, one took heat from an iron like a champ (the Sun N Shade in Sundial Citrine); no issues at all. The other (the Outdoor Solar in Praline ) melted easily, and I had to be careful with my temperature setting. As we always say: Test First; Stitch Second.

Our thanks to our friends at fabric.com for originally providing the great outdoor fabrics. We were able to find enough scraps in our stash to make our sample bag. Reusing, my friends, reusing.

We also did a thermal grocery tote last Spring, during our Nature Brights Kitchen series, which would be great to add into the mix. Do some of these regular bags and one or two thermal totes for your hot or cold items.

If you want to read more about scary store bags, check out:

The bacteria article from the Denver 7 News

The lead article from the NY Times

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome DC5100)
• Denim needle

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ½ yard of at least 44-45" wide heavy-weight fabric for the main body of the bag and the main straps: we used a scrap of 54" wide outdoor fabric leftover from our Summer Fun: Outdoor Padded Roll-up Cushion; it's called: Waverly Sun N Shade Sundial Citrine from fabric.com
• ¾ yard of at least 44-45" wide heavy-weight fabric for the base of the bag, bottom insert and strap accents: we used a scrap of 54" wide outdoor fabric leftover from our Noel Home: Study, Stylin' Firewood Carrier; it's called: Richloom Solarium Outdoor Solar in Praline from fabric.com
• All purpose thread to match both fabrics
• Sturdy cardboard for bag bottom insert: approximately 8" x 12"
• Marking pen, pencil or chalk: make sure you choose something that will a) wash or wipe away easily and b) can be easily seen on both the dark and light fabrics
• See-through ruler
• Yardstick
• Seam gauge
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Straight pins

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the main body of the bag and the main straps (Sundial Citrine in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 11½" high x 42" wide rectangle
   TWO 2½" x 44" strips
2. From the fabric for the base of the bag and the strap accents (Praline in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 9" high x 42" wide rectangle
   TWO 9" x 14" rectangles
   TWO 2" x 44" strips
3. On the 9" x 42" base rectangle, use your fabric pen, pencil or chalk to draw four vertical lines, which represent the corner folds, and one horizontal line at the exact middle of the rectangle.
   
4. On the 11½" x 42" main rectangle, use your fabric pen, pencil or chalk to draw four vertical lines for placement of the handle straps.
   

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Create and attach the straps

1. Find the two 2½" x 44" main strap strips.
2. On both strips, fold back the long raw edges ½" and press. Your finished width should be 1½".
3. Find the two 2" x 44" accent strap strips.
4. On both strips, fold back the long raw edges ½" and press. Your finished width should be 1".
   
5. Pair up a pressed main strip with a pressed accent strip.
6. Center the accent strip WRONG sides together with the main strip, sandwiching the folded-back raw edges in between the two pieces.
   
7. Pin in place the length of the strap.
   
   NOTE: It's worth taking a little extra time to double-check with your seam gauge as you pin to make sure the accent strip stays centered. Eyeballin' it isn't as precise as you might think.
8. Thread your machine with thread to match the main body of the bag; this should be a lighter color that will stand out nicely against the accent color on the strap.
9. Topstitch along both sides of both straps. Your stitch line should be 3/8" from the outside folded edge (the main strap), ¼" from the inside folded edge (the accent strap).
   NOTE: I lengthened my stitch, which tends to look nice for this type of topstitching (my default length is 2.0; I increased it to 3.2)
   
10. Place the finished straps on the bag body, using the lines you drew for positioning. You are placing the wrong side of the straps against the right side of the bag body. Place a pin and/or make a mark 2" down from the top raw edge of the bag body. This is the point at which you will pivot and turn to stitch your reinforcing box.
    
11. Pin in place, aligning the raw edges of the straps with the bottom raw edge of the bag body. Also, check the handle loops to make sure they aren't twisted.
    
12. Topstitch each strap in place, very carefully following the original topstitching line on the strap; you want it too look like a single line of stitching.
13. When you get to your 2"-from-the-top mark, stop, pivot and stitch across to the opposite line of topstitching. Stop and pivot again when you get to this line, then carefully follow along the stitching down the opposite side of the strap.
14. Reposition the bag under your needle at the horizontal stitch line of the 2"-from-the-top mark. Create a 1" box with an "X" through the center.
    
15. Repeat to attach the remaining three strap ends.

Construct the bag

1. Rethread your machine with thread to match the bag base in both the top and the bobbin.
2. On the 9" x 42" base piece, run a double line of topstitching approximately ½" to either side of your horizontal marked center line. As noted above, your topstitching will look better if you increase your stitch length.
   
3. Place the bag body and the bag base right sides together, aligning the bottom raw edge of the bag body with the top raw edge of the bag base. Pin in place.
   
4. Stitch in place, using a ½" seam allowance. Stitch a second time to reinforce.
5. Rethread your machine with thread to match the bag body in both the top and the bobbin.
6. Because our simplified bag design does not have a lining, we created a flat felled seam to finish the raw edges of the seam allowance. To do this, press the sewn seam flat (ie. not open). Trim back the seam allowance of the bag base ONLY (the Praline in our sample) to ¼". I also trimmed out the bulky strap ends so it would be easier to fold and wrap my seam.
   
7. Fold the un-trimmed bag body seam allowance (the Sundial Citrine in our sample) over the trimmed seam allowance, matching the raw edge to the seam line. Press.
   
8. Turn this 'wrapped' seam toward the bag base (the Praline in our sample), hiding the raw edge. Press.
   
9. Edgestitch the folded-over seam allowance in place.
   NOTE: You can use a straight stitch, but I opted for a narrow zig zag stitch instead. The outdoor fabrics I used frayed very easily and my flat felled seam was very narrow. I worried this important seam could weaken if my straight stitch wasn't perfect and something pulled out. A zig zag kept everything secure and it still looks cool.
10. The photo below shows you what our finished flat felled seam looks like from both sides. This is the kind of seam you find on most jeans... but without the zig zag.
    
11. Since you are so good at flat felled seams, lets make another. This one will be the bag's side seam. It's going to be easier because we're making a wider seam.
12. Fold the bag in half, right sides together. The raw edges of both sides should, of course, align. Another 'line up check' is to make sure the handle loops are even with one another.
13. Stitch together, using a 1" seam allowance. Yes, one inch.
14. Trim back to just over ¼".
    
15. Fold, wrap, press and edgestitch just as you did above.
    
    NOTE: I stayed with the lighter colored thread in my machine, which meant my edgestitching matched along the bag body and was a highlight seam along the bag base.
    
16. Hem the top of the bag all around with a simple double turn hem. To do this, fold in the raw edge ½", then fold again ½". Stitch in place close to the folded edge. This puts the reinforced top of the handle straps 1" from the hemmed top of the bag.
    
17. Rethread your machine with thread to match the bag base in both the top and the bobbin.
18. Flatten the bag, and pin the bottom raw edges together to create the base of the bag.
    
19. Stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance.
20. With the bag still wrong side out, the next step is to box the bottom corners of the bag to create an 8" x 12" base.
21. To do this, using both hands, pinch and pull apart the bottom corner.
22. As you pull, the fabric will begin to make a little peak with the corner point at the top and the seam line running down the middle of one side.
23. Center the side seam within this triangle peak.
24. Measure 4" from the point of the peak and draw a line.
    
25. Repeat to create a matching peak with the opposite corner.
26. Stitch back and forth along the lines two or three times to reinforce.
    
27. Trim back the 'ears' of the peaks to about ¼" from the seam line. Then, because our fabric frays easily, I overcast ALL the bottom seams with a zig zag stitch. The seams themselves will all be hidden beneath the bottom sleeve with its cardboard insert, so if your fabric is not prone to fraying, no need for this step.
    

Create the cardboard pocket

1. Find your two 9" x 14" pieces of base fabric.
2. Place them right sides together, pin, and stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance, along both sides and across the bottom.
3. Clip the corners and turn this pocket right side out.
4. Create a simple hem along the top raw edge. To do this, fold the raw edge back ½" and press, then fold back an additional ½" and press again.
5. Topstitch close to the folded edge.
6. Press and slip in the cardboard. Place this insert into the bag to form and stabilize the bottom.
   
   NOTE: The reason the insert is an open pocket is so you can easily remove the cardboard and wash both the bag and the pocket itself. You can also replace the cardboard if it gets wet or damaged.

Contributors

Project Concept: Alicia Thommas

Sample Creation: Liz Johnson

Other machines suitable for this project include the Elna 3210 Jeans and the Pfaff hobby 1142.

Comments (47)

artsymoxie said:

... for the bottom instead of card board im using flexible cutting mats from the dollar store. if they warp in the middle after many uses you can take it out flip it over and reinsert good as new. if they get dirty you can wipe them off and they are cheap 2 for $1. HTH someone

February 03, 2012

OnefoxyGrandma said:

... Super great pattern, written well with most excellent pictures....They way these bags are constructed you could probably carry 14 bricks and two galleons of milk in each bag.....

December 31, 2011

Vanessa G. said:

... Just finished one! Thank you so much for this!

November 08, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... @ Jolara -- I really don't think a quilting weight cotton would work well; you'd need a super stiff interfacing, and even then -- the lightweight cotton would be more likely to tear with rough use. I'd recommend taking the time to get a sturdier fabric to use for your Grandma's bags.

August 20, 2011

Jolara said:

... I just love this bag and I REALLY appreciate how easy you make it look to sew, thank you!!! If you don't mind, I have a question... I'd like to make a couple of these for my Grandmother whom I'm going to visit next week and I don't have any 'heavy duty' fabric on hand, at least none that would look good. Can I use regular quilt quality cotton fabric and just use interfacing on it for added strength? I'm not educated in fabrics nor interfacing to know the basic rules of thumb yet. Thank you again for the tutorial!

August 20, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... @Dawlii -- So glad we can help our with a project for your fabric find! Regarding the Afghan netting, I'm afraid I'm not familiar with this.

July 12, 2011

Dawlii said:

... I just paid $20 for an amazing amount of fabric at a garage sale. She told me to take it all. I thought she was joking. There is some Home Decor Fabric Store Swatches that are too heavy for anything other than furniture. Or so I thought until I saw these bags. They are big enough to do 2 sides of a large grocery bag. This pattern is just the thing for these pieces and the smaller 8" ones. There was also quite a bit of Afgan netting. So you think this work for veggie Bags? Looks Pretty sturdy.

July 11, 2011

Tealvett78 said:

... email me if interested at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it '> This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it thanks again.

June 07, 2011

Tealvett78 said:

... Can you just make me a few of the above bags & I buy them from you. I love the bags with a wider bottom to put my gallons of milk or boxed foods in at the store... what do you say can you sell me a few. I dont have the time or talent or patients to sew something so cute & practical & reuseable.

June 07, 2011

KellyF said:

... I'm making this bag for my son's Kindergarden teacher as an end of year gift. I'm using cotton duck in blue/white toile and solid white cotton duck - it's what my mom had on hand in her "stash". I think I might add a little decorative cursive monogram with her initials as well. Then I want to add a few things inside, but not sure what yet. Thank you for the pattern and tutorial.

June 07, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... @ Sharon Henley -- no pattern needed - these are all straight, cuts - just rectangles. Have fun!

May 30, 2011

Sharon Henley said:

... Puh-leese! I just want the pattern. I can read the comments here!

May 30, 2011

Katy A. said:

... Just got a sewing machine and am going to make this bag as my first project. I have sewn when I was younger, but am a bit rusty. Love the pattern and can't wait to make it.

May 26, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Rob -- we are nominating you, King of Green.

March 31, 2011

Rob Stowe - Prince of Practical said:

... Traine: I purchase bags of Jasmine Rice from my local asian market. It comes in 25# bags that are made of a plastic material thay you are describing. I made several of the Bowtie Neck Pillows and ran the plastic bags bags through my paper shredder for the Filling of the Pillows. I followed the template for the pillow, made a bladder out of Batiste (window sheer material) that I purchased from the local thrift store for $.97, and added an invisible 12-14" zipper to the pillow. Now, the shell of the pillow is washable AND the bladder can be "dunked" in a diluted cleaning solution and left to air-dry. Re-purposing the plastic bags and it makes for a VERY comfortable Pillow!

March 29, 2011

Rob Stowe - Prince of Practical said:

... Well, without sounding offended, I am not a Queen of anything; just a guy that was taught to sew 40 years ago!!! I, too, LOVE the idea of being Green and using my own shopping bags whether the store requires it, or not. This shopping bag article is well received and I applaud the editor and creators of the project. A nearby fabric store is having a great sale on material that will work wonders for my own set of bags. I have walked down that aisle many times in the past 2 weeks, wondering what I could do with such great fabrics - now I know. Great idea, great fabrics, great sale...where are my keys?! P.S. DaisyQ's idea of the corrugated plastic is SUPER! LucyJane, I am going to incorporate your pocket and key-leash idea into ALL 6 of mine. I may even include an opposite pocket for my dog's leash - we go to the pet store together and his retractable leash is always where it shouldn't be.

March 29, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Trayne -- hmmmmm - dog food bags, huh? You have me stumped on that one. Perhaps one of our visitors will have an idea. I suppose you could cut pieces out of it to fashion into a bag. However, I would recommend cutting out some scrap pieces so you can play around with what type of needle to use and how long of a stitch length. That will take a bit of testing I think.

March 27, 2011

Trayne said:

... Ok, here is a question.... I have been saving the bags that my Dog's food comes in.. They are plastic and have like woven fibers in them.. I am sure you have seen them. The bags are quite large and sturdy. I was wondering since they hold anywhere between 15 to 25 lbs of dog food. Would they be ok for making shopping bags.. not really washing machine washable, but can be wiped out. Otherwise , what can I do with these bags. I have been saving them for quite sometime. Cheryl

March 26, 2011

Learned Hand said:

... For the stiffener on the bottom, I recommend using those sheets of craft foam, or else needlepoint net -- either plastic or real stiff. I also tuck outside pockets in the center, between the straps. And that's where my little "lariat" thing is attached. So no PDQ rummaging inside the bag, for keys or phone. And... I'm going to face the top edge with the contrast fabric, and stiffen it with some interfacing, by way of hemming the top edge. That way, there's a little peekaboo rim of contrast fabric along the inside top edge, and the rim is stiffer.

March 21, 2011

kathyf said:

... Hi Liz, nice site!! I've been wanting to do this for a while! Thanks!!!

March 07, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Lucy Jane -- the way this bag is constructed with the center bottom seam and the boxes corners, I think it would be pretty tricky to stitch the pocket in place. We like to keep things as easy as possible for beginning sewers. Also, this design makes it really easy to take out just the bottom to wash (since it gets the dirtiest) and replace the cardboard when necessary. But ... goodness, more power to you and a gold star for making it your own!

March 07, 2011

Lucy Jane said:

... In stead of making a sleeve whey not sew a a pocket right on the bottom of the bag leaving on end open to slip the cardboard into. no extra pieces to worrie about.

March 07, 2011

Lucy Jane said:

... In stead of making a sleeve whey not sew a a pocket right on the bottom of the bag leaving on end open to slip the cardboard into. no extra pieces to worrie about.

March 07, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Kimburlee -- oh come on ....... you can do it know you can. You are exactly the kind of person we want to convert from "I want to" to "I can" ! Give it a try; you'll be hooked.

February 21, 2011

Kimburlee said:

... These are great! Now, wish I could sew! I sent your link to my mom, thinking she'll get the hint!! Looking for the "BUY NOW" button!

February 20, 2011

Fotoqueen said:

... super idea! I really like the designer bags for groceries and these look great. Anxious to try out this pattern.

February 19, 2011

SusieQ said:

... Just finished my first one and it is beautiful! Can't wait to get all 6 of them made!

February 03, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Glad you are enjoying the project! I didn't want to leave anything unsewn with the straps because the continuous stitching does help with the strength. If you are having trouble trimming out the bottom of the straps when you do the flat fell seam, I'd recommend going for a wider seam instead of leaving the unsewn bit and going back to finish the seam. We used a number of the standard store bags as guides in our construction planning, and so we are confident with the strength for normal grocery loads. However, if you are carrying super heavy items, such as big packs of water, you certainly could change up the design to best suit your needs. We tested the bag with several loads and it held up great. The other variable is the weight of the fabric; using a heavy fabric leads to a sturdier bag.

February 03, 2011

SusieQ said:

... I'm making mine right now, using a soft navy print and bright green for the base. Loving it so far, but I think the strap instructions should include leaving an unsewn bit at the bottom so it would be easier to trim out. Also, I didn't feel very confident about the strength after trimming, so I backstitched the zigzag topstitch over the straps. Did you consider doing straps that wrap around the bottom of the bag?

February 03, 2011

sandkat said:

... I have been making this type of bag for a few years now & they great, but I sew on a large patch pocket on one side & then sew down the middle.This is great for putting reading glasses & sunglasses in so they don't end up lost in the bags bottom

January 31, 2011

daisyq said:

... I use corrugated plastic to firm up the bottoms of my bags...available as discarded election signs, cut with heavy shears and rounded corners.

January 31, 2011

stinger said:

... I would also use horsehair braid in the top edge of the bag for that extra little polished touch.

January 27, 2011

Carol Roller said:

... What a great bag....think I'll just whip one up.. Thanks, Carol

January 26, 2011

Megan Greene said:

... Every bag I make, purses, totes, grocery, etc. has to have a good support system and be machine washable. I have used 10-count plastic canvas sheets with tote bags and messenger bags for added support - it might work for this bag (in place of the cardboard). I remove the plastic canvas when washing the tote bag and wash the plastic canvas by hand - no biggie. With your open sleeve design, this would work great. For this grocery bag, I may try 2 layers of the plastic canvas for added support. Thanks for a great design and tutorial, Megan

January 25, 2011

Estherwaayenberg said:

... I cut a piece of plexiglass to lay in the bottom of mine. Be sure to sand the edges and corners so they aren't sharp and cut through the fabric.

January 25, 2011

Margriet said:

... You could alsoit just serge the seams for a quicker finish and then stitch them down as a faux flat fell seam. I avoid cardboard because it invites mold and silver fish/bugs if not handled correctly because it will absorb moisture, a breeding ground for all kind of nasties. Replace as often as possible if you decide to use it.

January 25, 2011

Kim@NewlyWoodwards said:

... Thanks for sharing this. I was just telling my husband that I need to find some new bags for groceries because mine are horrible. I just happen to have some outdoor fabric that would be perfect for these. Thanks again!

January 24, 2011

yprofet said:

... This project is giving me that extra push I needed to get sewing again. Besides I believe in GREEN

January 24, 2011

Marilyn McKinney said:

... Or you can use plastic for the sleeve, the kind used for plastic sewing. It is easy to cut to size and washes well.

January 24, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Pamela V -- yep -- if you go to the very bottom -- you see my note about the sleeve: NOTE: The reason the insert is an open pocket is so you can easily remove the cardboard and wash both the bag and the pocket itself. You can also replace the cardboard if it gets wet or damaged.

January 24, 2011

Pamela V said:

... Did you make a sleeve for the bottom insert or plan on replacing the cardboard insert every time you wash the bag? Seems like the insert would be just a "germy" as the rest of the bag.

January 24, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Cassandra - you made me laugh out loud about being "a machine" -- as mentioned in my post above, I am far from perfect, but I am pretty good at following the guide lines on my presser feet and throat plate. I also colored inside the lines in my coloring books as a kid!

January 24, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Vianki -- if you decide you want to overcast your edges, you should go across the entire seam allowance. I made a bit of an after-the-fact decision on the main bottom seam and so my overcasting stops before the end on the bottom edge. The overcast on the boxed bottom seams do go all the way across. This proves that I am not perfect.

January 24, 2011

Vianki said:

... I noticed that when you over-cast to prevent fraying, it doesn't seem to go to the very edge. Is that intentional, or because of the stiff fabric? When I overcast, I usually let the outside stitch go off the fabric so that it covers the edge and is more like serging (WISH i had a serger....), and it pulls the fabric in a bit. Are both methods correct? A newbie seamstress is so very curious!

January 24, 2011

Just Me said:

... I would add a little zippered pocket inside to hold cash and reward cards for when you walk over to the store to pick up one or two items. Also a small "leash" with a clip to hold your keys.

January 24, 2011

Cassandra said:

... I have to know...are you all machines? How do you get your stitches so straight? For example on the handles they are soooo straight. Great bag!!

January 24, 2011

Jennifer O. said:

... I am not 100% at all Queen of Green but I do shop Aldis where you have to bring your own bags. I love your material choises and great tutorial btw! Yes, I almost lost my washer to washing those lovely bags. The Trader Joe's cooler bags do not wash to well!

January 24, 2011

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