2019_Pincushion_new logo

Facebook Twitter Sew4Home RSS Feed Follow Me on Pinterest Instagram


Top Interfacing Solutions for Bags & Totes

Printer-friendly versionPDF version

Thank you for your support! Words to live by when you're deciding how best to interface a project. Interfacing is one of those behind-the-scenes sewing materials that gives your projects a professional finish. You've probably heard of it, but maybe you don't know exactly what it is, what it does, or how best to choose the correct type for the job. This category is so large and varied, it's impractical to tackle everything at once, which is why we're focusing this article on the most common choices for bags and totes. You'll like the handy, printable chart we developed. Print out one copy to post in your sewing room and another to use when you shop. If you like the information here, leave us a comment below and let us know which additional interfacing categories you'd like us to review. 

Simply put, interfacing is a textile that goes behind your fabric (or between the fabric layers) to give it the support it needs to look good and hold up well. Can we cue up Wind Beneath My Wings?

Interfacing comes in a huge variety of options: woven or non-woven, thick or sheer, fusible or sew-in, packaged or on a bolt. And that's even before you look at the specialty options within each of those categories. As we mentioned above, there are so many kinds, we're focusing this article on the varieties you'd most likely use when constructing bag and totes.

A brief backstory on interfacing

For most of early history, people wore garments that draped over the body. In other words, they weren't tailored to fit the human form. Think ancient togas and medieval robes.

But around the time of the Renaissance, the nobility began to wear more fitted garments. By the time of Queen Elizabeth, both men's and women's fashion included features like tailored bodices and elaborate sleeves and collars – things that required tailors to add material under the fabric so it would hold its shape. Okay... exactly how would one walk in the vintage garment shown below?!

In the 1700s, starched linen was the most popular interfacing, giving our Founding Fathers their nice, stiff coattails.

In the 1930s, Dr. Carl Nottebohm, a German researcher, developed a way to create textiles by directly laying down the fibers rather than spinning them into thread and weaving them. These new non-woven fabrics became widely used as backing material and make up the bulk of interfacing today.

The difference between interfacings and stabilizers

If you've done machine embroidery or appliqué you've (hopefully) used a stabilizer. Like interfacing, stabilizers also come as sheets of thin, non-woven material. They can even feel similar to the touch. But interfacing and stabilizers are different in what they're designed to do and how they're manufactured.

A stabilizer is a temporary backing designed to hold your fabric as still as possible while it's being stitched on. With your sewing machine's needle going in and out as fast as six times per second, the fabric wants to move up and down with it. But even a slight movement can produce uneven stitch quality. Stabilizer gives your fabric extra rigidity during the embroidery, appliqué or decorative stitching process. Once the stitching is done, the fabric no longer needs the support, so the stabilizer can be cut, torn or rinsed away. 

On the other hand, interfacing stays put. 

Whether it's sewn in or ironed on, interfacing offers support for the fabric throughout the entire life of the item. If it's a garment, it may give collars and lapels rigidity, or help a light fabric drape properly. In the case of bags, it allows them to hold their shape. Without some type of interfacing, a sewn bag would simply collapse into a little pile of fabric.

Another difference between stabilizers and interfacing is how they're manufactured. Even though they both might be non-woven, they have different characteristics. A stabilizer is manufactured to be rigid in all directions, while interfacing may give support in one direction while easily flexing in another.

Even with this wonderfully researched distinction, there are exceptions. Some manufacturers use the two terms more interchangeably than others when naming their products. And, sometimes a "stabilizer" can be a good choice as your "interfacing." In fact, you'll see in our chart below that we list "stabilizers" as our favorite choices in two sew-in catgories. As with most things in the world of sewing, testing is always important and your personal choice wins the day every time. 

Printable reference table: Our Favorite Interfacing Options For Bags and Totes

We've created many bag projects here on Sew4Home, and in the process, we've made lots of trips to stores and visits online to find the best interfacing options.

For your reference, we've created a handy chart you can download and print, featuring the kinds of interfacing we recommend for bags and totes. Along with our favorite in each of five general categories, we've included an alternate, which would also work well. 

We've divided the choices into five main categories: Foam Style Interfacing, Fleece Interfacing, Lightweight Interfacing, Mid-weight Interfacing, and Firm Interfacing. 

There are no definitive rules of when to use which, because there are many variables that come into play in terms of fabric (from cotton to canvas), usage (everyday versus special occasion), and the desired look (structured or slouchy). These are all completely personal choices. 

Think of this information as a guideline to the most common practices. If you're a regular Sew4Home visitor, you'll recognize many of our favorite choices, and we've linked to several project examples to illustrate our suggestions. 

Foam Style Interfacing

This is a good solution to provide a soft yet defined shape. Keep in mind that foam has a some memory to it; you can bend it easily, but it will pop right back into its original shape. If you want a bag with a slouch or soft gather, foam is not the best choice. We used foam on our Tendy Drawcord Backpack (the body but not the flap) and our Vintage Satchel


Similar in softness to foam, fleece better follows the drape of the fabric to which it is being layered. Living up to its name, fleece provides a density like a blanket, and it's a good choice for totes that feature quilting. Fleece also adds thickness to your layers without adding a lot of weight, which is generally beneficial in the body of a bag. We used it on our Gathered Bucket Bag and Lightweight, Designer Backpack (again for the body, but not the flap; a mid-weight was used on the flap).

Lightweight Interfacing

When you need a little help to keep things crisp, a lightweight is a good choice. It keeps a lining pocket stable, gives the proper sharpness to a small flap, and is helpful when a project has multiple layers in a small size. In addition, if your fabric already has weight, you may not want to add much more. Hardly noticeable, lightweight interfacing smooths and sharpens. We used it on our Gathered Gift Bags and Double Zipper Device Sleeve

Mid-weight Interfacing

We draw from this category more than any other when constructing our bags and totes. A good mid-weight is great for creating structure, while still allowing for flexibility. It's our go-to interfacing for larger flaps, and is the perfect layer between a décor weight exterior and a quilting-weight lining. It can crease if folded, so it's best to keep it out of seams. We used it on our Messenger Style Brief and our Zippered Pouch Trio

Firm Interfacing

When we say firm, we mean firm! This type of interfacing is quite rigid and meant for projects where you want a very defined shape. We like to use it for round totes as well as the round tote's cousin: the structured basket. It can also work well to stabilize the base of a bag. We used it for our Jumbo Fabric Tub and our Tool Tote.

Best Interfacing Solutions for Bags and Totes Chart Preview

For a high quality PDF, please click here: Interfacing Solutions for Bags and Totes. After downloading, you can then save and/or print the PDF as a handy reference in your sewing room and when shopping. 



Comments (22)

AnnB2 said:
AnnB2's picture

I just asked at Fabric Depot if such a comparison chart existed, before I continued my search for one. And here to find just what I needed. It's not comparing all brands, but enough (your favorites for bags and totes ) to get a good idea for the various weights and also how it is packaged. Thank you. Maybe they will respond and I can request they link to this chart, unless they already do somewhere on their shopping site. 

Thank you!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@AnnB2 - Glad you found our chart helpful. We did work with our friends at Fabric Depot on the original info, and the chart was linked at that point from their website - perhaps they've moved the link. We'll check with them as well. 

david said:
david 's picture


I have been looking for flex paper for the longest, i believe it used to ve called 010 flex. I used it once for a strap to give 

a thiner leather a bit more of body and wieght but it seems that when ever i google Flex paper nothing close to what 

I need comes up. Do you know any website or what the exact technical name for what im looking for is? Ive tried looking 

for bonded leathers but I need something thinner for certain projects and the lightest bonded leather I have found is 6mm. 

The paper im talking about significantly lighter than bonded leather but adds the perfect weight when working with a 8mm

-10 mm leather. Any idea if there might be a good substitute for flex paper, because apparently its very difficult to purchase it, unless its bought for industry production amounts which is insane to buy for an occasional project here and there. plsss HELP!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@david - so sorry, that is not something we are familiar with. We've never worked with any interfacings on our projects that are a lightweight paper. The only thing that we currently use with "flex" in the name is the Shape Flex by Pellon, which is an excellent lightweight fusible but is more fabric than paper. Since you are working with real leather, you might want to reach our directly to a provider of leather and learther tools, like Tandy - they would likely have more specific information:


Shannon said:
Shannon 's picture

Hi Liz! I've recently purchased a cotton linen blend fabric and I've made a pillow cover with it. I feel like the fabric needs something... I'd like it to feel more sturdy and "professional grade". Can I use interfacing to do this? 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Shannon - Yes you can - we often use interfacing on our pillow covers - especially if we've sewn together panels to create the pillow front. It smooths things out quite nicely. For the cotton/linen blend that you describe, you don't want anything too stiff. You might take a look at the Pellon Shape Flex - it's a woven interfacing. You can get it lots of places, like Fabric.com:


Lori A said:
Lori A's picture

ehat would you recommend to stiffen up a new leather tote? After I got it home from the store and removed the paper inside, it collapsed! I love the color but can't use it well the way it is. I would love for it to be stiff on the sides. By the way, I've never seen a handbag before..thanks in advance! 


Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Lori - Interfacing an already constructed bag will be tricky. And, there are quite a few variables regarding the style of the bag and the type of the leather - so troubleshooting long distance is tough at best. If there's a lining, and you can get between the lining and the bag, you might be able to adhere a fusible product to the lining - like the fusible foam - so it sits between the lining and the leather to add some stability. We don't work with real leather much at all, so I don't know how well a fusible will adhere to it. If there's not a lining, whatever you use will be visible from the inside. Overall, I think the foam interfacing might be the best bet for you, however, I can't really tell you how best to get it to adhere to and/or stay in place in your new bag. 

Cheryl Brown said:
Cheryl Brown's picture

Which catagory would you put the fusible Pellon Shape Flex 101? Lightweight or mid weight fusible?

I have some for a bag using many layers of quilting cotton.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Cheryl - Shape Flex falls into the lightweight category - although it is a bit more stable than say a Shir-Tailor.

Carol Sue said:
Carol Sue's picture

I love this list.  I will definately print 2 copies.  I usually have lightweight fusible interfacing on hand as I do some clothing in addition to my purses and totes.  I have used an old blanket for the lining for a tree skirt.  It was much cheaper (thrift store) than buying enough fleece interfacing.  I have not used foam interfacing before but may have to try it.  

Eileen Sullivan said:
Eileen Sullivan's picture

I just made a basket using the foam....LOVE IT!  So soft and super easy to sew, but firm at the same time.  A bit pricey tho!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Eileen - we love the foam - and now Pellon is making it in both a one-sided and double-sided fusible. More to love!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Carol Sue - Interesting tip about using a blanket to line a large project, like a tree skirt. Great recycle-resue optino!

Jenny S. said:
Jenny S.'s picture

Yes, don't forget Pellon Shape Flex 101!  It's woven cotton with iron on adhesive. I use it in bag making.  I find it far superior to those old fashioned non woven Pellon products which bubble, shrink and peel off (and sometimes smell bad!).  

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Jenny S - We did mention Shape Flex in the comment below as a "green alternatives" - we haven't had any the issues you mention with the fusibles (bubble, shrink or peel off), but isn't great there are so many to choose from?!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Ghoncheh - you are so welcome. Interfacings can be confusing!

Betty Meyskens said:
Betty Meyskens's picture

Great article --- love that all the information is in one place now.  Thank you for the PDF - I have printed and put on my sewing cabinet.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Batty Meyskens - glad you find it helpful. We hope to add interfacing solutions for other projects as well. 

Jsandas1 said:
Jsandas1's picture

Thank you for the PDF printout; it's so helpful to have all that info in one place. The selections available at the store can be daunting if you don't know their applications and when you might use fusible versus sewn in, especially to us beginners. I'd like to find a more natural alternative to traditional interfacings. I like to use organic cotton fabrics as much as possible and don't want to use a synthetic interfacing or added glues to my project. Any ideas or sources? Thank you

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Jsandas1 -- You're welcome! Regarding "green" options, I don't have a long list of suggestions. You may want to do some Internet research on your own to see exactly what other people have done. You could go back in time and use a starched linen - as we mentioned above, it was a favorite original interfacing. However, if your project is going to be washed, the starch may not hold up as well as you'd like. Buckram is another option. It is quite stiff though and so would only work in some applications. Pellon has a 100% cotton woven sew-in called Shape Flex, which is another thought. Bamboo products are also possible, but I've really only encountered bamboo batting - not anything stiffer. And, of course, you could use other heavy fabrics, but again, the ability to really hold a specific shape would be harder to control.