Faux fur is everywhere this season in wearables and accessories. The other top seasonal trend we picked up on, as we browsed the shelves of both virtual and brick and mortar stores, was: faux fur pom poms. We got to looking at them more closely, and decided the couldn’t be that hard to make. And we were right. They’re not! We show you the simple steps below in today’s Deck The Halls with Fabric.com project. Once you have your poms, you obviously must have a matching faux fur bag on which to place them. Our bag is as easy to make as the poms. It’s the elegant mixture of textures that make it special: luxurious faux fur for the exterior – and those bouncy poms, a textured shantung on the inside that gives the look of high-end silk at a fraction of the price (starting at just $2.99 per yard!), and an extra long strap in super supple Vintage faux suede. With so many faux fur options to choose from at Fabric.com, you can make a bag for all your fashionable friends and each one can be personalized.
The bag finishes at approximately 15″ high x 14″ wide with an approximate 56″ strap. The strap is made of two pieces that can be knotted at the shoulder to make it your perfect length. Tie it up short to hang right under your arm. Or lengthen it all the way out and wear it cross-body for a casual look. Super soft, super stylish.
Our thanks to Fabric.com for sponsoring our Deck The Halls series. Shopping with Fabric.com is addicting. Everything is well categorized so it’s easy to hop from section to section. There are quick links to check out their latest Sales and Clearance fabrics, as well as to browse what has Just Arrived in a number of areas, like Quilting Fabric and Home Décor Solutions. Be prepared to lose yourself for a few hours.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome DC2013)
Fabric and Other Supplies
NOTE: Inventory shifts constantly, and some fabric may not be in-stock when you first visit. However, there are other color options as well as re-stock dates listed for each fabric. Above are our sample fabrics. Below are some alternate selections. Click on the swatch strips below for even more fabric options from which to choose.
- ½ yard of 44″+ wide, faux fur for the bag exterior and the poms; we used 60″ Snow Leopard Faux Fur from Fabric.com, which is not in stock at the moment; Snow Lynx (#DT-033) is very similar – or check out our other faux fur suggestions above.
- ½ yard of 44″+ wide, lightweight textured shantung or similar for the bag lining; we used 54″, 100% polyester Crestmont Autumn Textured Shantung in Cafe (#0290754) from Fabric.com
- ¼ yard of 58″+ wide, medium weight faux suede or similar for the bag strap; we used 58″ Vintage Suede in Parchment (#CT-741) from Fabric.com
- ½ yard of ⅛” cotton or satin cording or similar; we used cotton cord, purchased locally
- ¼ yard or scrap of 30″+ wide, medium weight fusible interfacing; we recommend 45″ Heat ‘n’ Bond Woven Fusible (#0293685) from Fabric.com
- ONE magnetic purse snap; we used a Dritz® ¾” Magnetic Snap in Nickel (#NR-326) from Fabric.com
- All purpose thread to match fabric
- See-through ruler
- Measuring tape
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Rotary cutter and mat
- Iron and ironing board
- Straight pins
- Hand sewing needle
- Download and print out our TWO pattern templates: Corner Arc Template and Pom Pom Circle Template.
IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
- Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line.
- From the faux fur, cut the following:
TWO 15″ wide x 16″ high rectangles
Use the Pom Pom Circle Template to cut TWO 4″ circles. Remember, when cutting fur, cut only the backing.
NOTE: For other tips and techniques, see our tutorial on Sewing with Faux Fur.
- From the lining fabric (Textured Shantung in our sample), cut the following:
TWO 15″ wide x 16″ high rectangles
ONE 8″ wide x 11″ high rectangle for the pocket
- From the strap fabric (Vintage Suede in our sample), cut ONE strip 7″ x Width of Fabric (WOF=58″ in our sample).
- Cut a 14″ length from the cording
- Working from the wrong side of the faux fur, pin the corner arc template to one lower corner. Round the corner using the template as your guide. As we mentioned above (and as shown in our faux fur tutorial), only cut the backing – not the nap of the fur.
- Flip over the template so it is wrong side up, and repeat to round the opposite lower corner. Then repeat both steps to round the lower corners of the remaining faux fur rectangle.
- Repeat to create rounded lower corners on both of the lining rectangles.
- Fold the faux suede strip in half so it is now 3½” x 58″. Measure 38″ in from the left end of the strip and mark. Slice the strip into two pieces at this mark on a 45˚angle.
NOTE: The easiest way to achieve a 45˚angle is to use the angle markings on a cutting mat. If your cutting mat does not have angle grids, you could use a protractor or simply “eyeball” it.
- From the interfacing, cut two 1½” x 15″ strips.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- Pin each of the two strap lengths along the long side and across the angled end. The straight ends remain open.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across the angled end and down the long side. Remember to pivot at the corner to create a sharp point.
- Trim the seam allowances back to ¼” and clip the corners. Turn both straps right side out and gently push out the corner with a long, blunt end tool, such as a chopstick. You can also carefully pull out the corner with a pin. Press the straps flat. Use a pressing cloth to press the faux suede.
- Create a small tuck at each open end, reducing the width of the end to 2″. Pin the tucks in place.
- Set the straps aside.
Create the exterior bag
- Find the two faux fur panels and place them right sides together. Pin along both sides and around the bottom, making sure the fur is pushed in from the the raw edge of the backing. (One more reminder here to check out our Sewing with Faux Fur tutorial if you are new to working with this type of fabric).
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and around the bottom.
- Turn the bag right side out. Use a pin or comb to pull any trapped fur from the seam.
- Find the two straps. Pin the shorter strap 1″ from the seam at the BACK of the bag. Pin the longer strap 1″ in from the side seam at the FRONT of the bag. The two straps should be at opposite corners from one another when viewed from the front of the bag.
Create the lining bag
- Find the two lining panels, the lining pocket panel, the two strips of interfacing, and the magnetic purse clasp.
- Place a strip of interfacing on the wrong side of each lining panel. The strip should be positioned horizontally along the upper edge, ½” down from the raw edge of the fabric. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
- Fold the 8″ x 11″ pocket panel in half so it now measures 8″ x 5½”. Pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving an approximate 2″ opening at the center of the bottom edge.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom. Remember to pivot at the corners and to lock your seam at either side of the 2″ bottom opening.
- Clip the corners and press the seams. Turn right side out through the opening.
- Using a long, blunt end tool, such as a knitting needle or chopstick, gently push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. Press in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
- Fold the pocket in half and press lightly to set a center. You will use this crease later as a stitching guideline.
- Find one of the lining panels. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
- Position the pocket on the panel. It should be centered side to side and the top (the folded edge) of the pocket should be 3″ down from the upper raw edge of the lining panel. Pin in place.
- Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom. The top remains open. Use a generous locking stitch or back tack at the beginning and end of the seam. The top corners of a pocket are a stress point and it helps to have some extra strength there.
- Use that center crease line you set above as a guideline to topstitch one vertical line of stitching, dividing the pocket into two sections.
- Place the two lining panels right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin along both sides and around the bottom, leaving an approximate 4″ opening at the center of the bottom edge for turning.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and around the bottom. Remember to lock your seam at either side of the 4″ opening at the bottom.
- At the upper edge, follow manufacturer’s instructions to attach one half of the magnetic snap to each lining panel. The snap should be centered side to side and the top curve of the snap should be 1″ down from the top raw edge of the fabric.
- Make sure you are inserting the snap from the back to the front so the right sides (the magnetic sides) are facing one another on the right sides of the lining panels.
- Find the exterior bag. It should be right side out with the straps securely pinned in place. Find the lining bag. It should be wrong side out.
- Insert the the exterior bag inside the lining bag so the two are now right sides together. Align the top raw edges, the side seams and the bottom rounded corners. Pin in place all around the top opening.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around the entire top opening.
- Pull the exterior bag out through the bottom opening in the lining. With the lining still pulled away from the main bag, thread a hand sewing needle and slip stitch the opening in the lining closed.
- Push the lining down into the bag and pull the straps up into position.
- Find the two faux fur circles and the 14″ length of cording.
- Make a small knot in each end of the cording.
- Pin one knotted end of the cord to the right side of one faux fur circle.
- Thread the hand sewing needle with a double length of thread. Use a long running stitch (a gathering stitch) to sew all around the perimeter of the circle. The stitching should be about ¼” from the raw edge of the backing. Make you catch the cord as you stitch. In fact, you may want to stitch through the cord twice to insure it holds.
NOTE: The backing weave of faux fur tends to be a bit more open than standard cottons. It helps to secure the knotted end of the your sewing thread with two or three extra stitches in place. Once you feel the knot is secure, start the running stitch.
- To better illustrate the pom making process, we used a piece of fleece and black embroidery floss. When you get back around to your starting point, do not knot the thread. Instead, pull up on the thread to gather the flat circle into a pouch.
- Keep pulling until the circle is as tight as possible. The knotted end of the cording will be pointing up.
- Poke the knotted end of the cording to the inside of the “pom pouch.” Use the remaining thread to stitch shut the gathered opening. Keep your stitches small and careful; you don’t want the fur to get caught up in the thread. Once the opening is secure, knot off your thread. Pull the needle down through the pom and trim the thread at the opposite side of the opening. Fluff up the nap of the faux fur to help conceal the stitching.
- Repeat to create a matching pom at the opposite end of the cording.
- Tie the poms at the base of the front strap. Attach the front and back straps at the shoulder with a square knot, adjusting the length to your liking.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler