If you’re like us, you love pockets. Pants, skirts, coats… if they don’t have pockets, forget it! So what better shape to turn into a handy holder? We created a unique pattern that allows the top of the pocket to curve outward, which fits so many more options than a traditional flat pocket. A large plastic grommet at the top lets you hang it from a knob or a hook.
Fast Fridays are all about whipping out something wonderful in no time at all. This project is quick, easy, and prefect for scraps or pre-cuts. We pulled from a bundle of fat eighths for our sample.As mentioned above, there’s a free pattern download. You’ll notice the bottom of the pattern has a kind of triangle shape. This is our clever design solution that allows the top of the pocket to extend out from the base panel in an arc.
In order to insure our Hanging Pocket can hold its shape, both fabric layers are interfaced with a mid-weight fusible. Our steps below show you how to cut the interfacing in large blocks with a slight crack at the folding point. This tiny break in the interfacing allows the bottom to fold up with a sharp yet smooth bottom edge. And, by starting with blocks of interfacing, you’ll see how you can cut all your layers at once to insure a prefect match of the raw edges all around.
Yes, we said raw edges. To insure the flattest finish, you’ll layer the exterior and the interior wrong sides together and secure with a finishing stitch. We used a pretty blanket stitch, but there are plenty of other options to try.
Our design calls for a 9/16” Dritz Plastic Curtain Grommet for the hanging opening. This size is large enough for most drawer knobs or use a Command Hook to add a hanger wherever you need a little mini storage.
The size and shape of our Hanging Pocket makes it an excellent solution in your sewing space. Load it with little notions you use a lot, like fabric pens and pencils, skinny rulers and gauges, seam rippers, and more.
Keep a pocket near your work surface so your writing tools are always at hand.
We’re always searching for the remote… as well as our glasses. Stick up a Command Hook on an end table and keep things within reach for watching or reading.
One would also work well in the bath to hold hair tools. The curved top can handle a variety of shapes from thin to bulky.
With all these uses, there’s a reason to have one in every room in the house. Plus, a Hanging Pocket or two would make a great gift idea for anyone trying to stick to their organizational resolutions.
Do you have a suggestion for a Fast Fridays Project? We’d love to hear from you. Leave us a comment below or email your idea to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Our Hanging Pocket finishes at approximately 3½” wide x 9½” high with a 5½” pocket.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
Fabric and Other Supplies
- TWO scraps or fat eighth (9” x 21”) pre-cuts (our choice) or ¼ yard cuts of 44”+ wide quilting weight cotton
NOTE: This project uses two layers, each needs to be approximately 7” x 17” — larger is actually better based on how you will adhere the interfacing and cut through all the layers at once, which is why we opted for the 9” x 21” fat eighth pre-cuts. You can choose two coordinating fabrics as we did (our pretty fabric is from the Orchard collection by April Rosenthal for Moda Fabrics) or use the same fabric for both the exterior and the interior.
- Scrap or ¼ yard of 45”+ wide mid-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
- ONE large plastic grommet; we used a 9/16” Dritz Home Curtain Grommet
- All-purpose thread to match fabric
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Iron and ironing board
- Straight pins
- Seam sealant, optional for grommet opening
- Download and print out the pattern piece: Hanging Pouch (parts A and B). These pattern pieces have been bundled into one PDF to make the download easier.
IMPORTANT: Each of the two pages within the PDF is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
- Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line. Using the printed arrows as a guide, butt together the two pieces, do NOT overlap, and tape to create the full pattern.
- From the mid-weight interfacing, cut TWO squares a bit larger than Part A of the assembled pattern and TWO squares a bit larger than Part B of the assembled pattern.
- Find the two fabric panels. Place each panel wrong side up on your ironing board.
- Butt together the two sections of interfacing (one A and one B) on each fabric panel. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
- Place the two interfaced layers wrong sides together, aligning the “crack” where the two pieces of interfacing come together on each fabric panel.
- Using pins as we did or a fabric pen or pencil, mark this crack on the right side of the fabric.
- Place the fabric “exterior” side up. The exterior is the fabric layer that will face out when the pocket is folded up into position (the cute little fruits on our sample). Make sure the marks delineating the crack are visible.
NOTE: This crack in the interfacing is what will allow the pocket to fold up into position with a smooth, clean line at the bottom of the pocket.
- Fold the paper pattern at the joint (where you taped it together). Align this fold with the position of the crack. Lightly pin the pattern in place.
- Once aligned and pinned, unfold the pattern flat and pin all around.
- Cut out the shape through all the layers.
NOTE: Why did we go to all this trouble? Because our Hanging Pocket has raw edges sewn all around with a finishing stitch. The finishing stitch keeps most fraying to a minimum, but by insuring the double layers of interfacing go all the way to the exact cut line around the entire perimeter, you have another hedge against fraying.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- Remove the paper pattern and re-pin through all the layers. Pinning around the bottom straight edge…
- … and around top curve.
- Thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin.
- Set up your machine for your favorite finishing stitch, such as a standard zig zag, an overcast or our choice: a blanket stitch. You want a stitch that will wrap the edges and that can be adjusted by both width and length to get the best look.
- With your stitch selected, do just that! Test your stitch on some layers of scraps, adjusting width and length to get the perfect settings.
- Stitch along just the bottom straight edge first. This is what will become the top of the pocket when folded up into position.
- Fold up along the crack of the interfacing (remember how carefully you aligned that little break in the interfacing?), which should where the two pattern pieces come together if you want to double check the position using the paper pattern.
- Align the raw edges of the pocket with the raw edges of the base panel. This means the top of the pocket will bow out, which is exactly what we want. Yay!
- Using the same finishing stitch, start at one bottom corner and stitch up the side through all layers…
- … continue around the curved top…
- … then continue down to the opposite bottom corner.
Add the grommet
- Find the paper pattern. Place it over the curved top and mark the center point of the grommet opening.
- Remove the paper and use the template that comes with the grommet to draw in the full circle.
- Cut out the circle through all the layers.
- Insert the stud half of the grommet through the circular opening from back to front.
- Snap the cap half of the grommet onto the top to seal.
NOTE: If you are brand new to working with this type of grommet, you can check out our full tutorial prior to starting.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild