One trim you'll use a lot of in home dec sewing is bias tape. But how did it get that name? When I hear the word "bias," I tend to think of Olympic figure skating judges. If you go look it up in dictionary, you'll see that the first definition is "an oblique or diagonal line." (Figure skating is never mentioned.) It makes sense then that bias tape is a strip of fabric that's been cut at a 45˚ angle to the weave or grain. This gives it just a little stretchiness, making it possible for bias tape to go around corners without bunching up. It's easy to make and easy to attach--as you'll soon see.

Bias tape is often used to make cording. But it's a versatile trim just by itself. You use it to cover the raw edge of fabric to give a finished, professional look. It's traditionally been used on quilts and blankets but also makes a nice accent on pillows, curtains and table linens. You can buy ready-made bias tape, pre-folded and ready to go. But there are a number of reasons to make your own, the chief one being you can use whatever fabric you want.

Before you do anything else – prewash!

You notice we say this a lot on Sew4Home. But if you've ever seen what can happen when you launder an item made with fabric and/or trims that haven't been pre-washed, you know it's not a pretty sight. Shrinkage, bunching, wrinkling ... don't go there. The only time you don't have to pre-wash is if you know for sure your item will never be laundered (like a lampshade). Otherwise wash and dry your fabric and trims according to the fabric directions.

How much fabric do I need?

If you're a modern-day Pythagoras, you can figure out down to the inch, how much bias tape a yard of fabric will yield. Otherwise, you can just get a rough idea and then cut more if you need it.

First, measure for the length of bias tape you'll need. For instance, if you're going to use it on an 18" x 18" throw pillow, add up the sides (18" x 4) and you'll see you need at least 72" of bias tape. Always make a bit more to account for the seams and the "tail" you need at the end to fold under for finishing. And because too much is always better than not enough.

Next, decide how wide you'll need to cut your strips. To bind an exposed edge (the most common bias tape use in home dec), you'll want to use double-fold bias tape. If you want your sewn-on strip of tape to be ½" wide, you'll need to start with a strip of fabric that's 2" wide.

For our instructions we'll use 1 yard (45" wide) of fabric. This will give us several yards of ½" double-fold tape. You'll attach your strips end-to-end to get a continuous length of tape.

Cutting your bias strips

1. On your cutting surface, lay your fabric out flat, right side up, with the selvage running along one side.
   
2. The selvage is the woven edge of your fabric where is was originally attached to the loom. The fabric's pattern does not continue onto the selvage, but there is likely to be some information printed there that identifies the manufacturer or designer.
3. Fold the fabric back diagonally so a straight edge is parallel to the selvage.
4. Press the fold and use this crease as a guide to mark your parallel lines.
5. Use a straight edge to make continuous parallel lines at the width you figured above.
   
6. Cut along these lines with good, sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and straight edge.

Joining the strips

1. Square off one end of each strip you intend to join.
   
2. Take two of your strips and place them right sides together at right angles to each other.
   
3. Draw a diagonal line across this right angle corner.
4. Stitch along this drawn line.
5. Trim the seam allowance back to approximately ¼".  
   
6. Lay flat, press the seam open and trim off the overlapping edges.
   
7. Repeat until you have one long fabric strip.
8. Press the seams flat open.
   

Folding your bias strip

1. Fold your strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press.
   
2. Open up your strip wrong side towards you.
   
3. Fold each side towards the center crease and press.
   NOTE: Here's a favorite trick picked up from the bias tape you buy pre-made in the packages: fold one side nearly all the way to the center fold mark – so it is almost touching the fold; fold the other side just a little over half way to the fold line. So you end up with one fold that is slightly narrower that the other, BECAUSE that way when you stitch it on, you stitch the narrow side down first and then when you flip it over to do the final topstitching (don't worry .... I cover this below), you will be assured of catching the wider fold in your seam line.
   
4. Fold again along your first crease, right sides together, so your two folded edges are together. Press. You've just made your own double-fold bias tape. Call all your friends and brag. Or, if you're the modest type, simply move on the attaching it.
   

Attaching bias tape to a straight edge

1. Lay out the fabric to which you want to attach the bias tape,  right side up . Unfold the NARROW edge of the bias tape and position it right side down along the edge of the fabric, lining up the raw edges. I like to position my bias tape just a tiny bit below the raw edge of my fabric. I think it makes a cleaner edge. 
   
2. Stitch the bias tape to the edge of the fabric, following the fold. You are stitching right in the fold line, which makes it real easy to follow and keep your stitching straight.
   
3. Fold in your edges to make a nice, clean edge so you won't have to deal with them later. About ½" should do it.
   
4. Fold the bias tape over the edge of the fabric, encasing the raw edge. The wider folded edge is now on the back side of your fabric.
   
5. Press. This is optional, but I think it makes it easier to do the final topstitching when the entire edge is nicely pressed.
6. Flip over to the right side of your fabric. Edgestitch the bias tape in place along the right side. That means you stitch a straight seam close to the folded edge of your bias tape. You can use a decorative stitch with contrasting thread for an added effect. When you flip over to the back, you'll see that you've perfectly caught the entire length of that ever-so-slightly wider fold on the back. Yea!
   

Attaching bias tape to a curved edge

Your steps for working with a curved edge are essentially the same as the straight edge. It just takes a little extra patience and practice. Here are a few things to remember:

1. Do not stretch the binding as you sew or pin.
2. Start your stitching on the gentlest part of your curve; the place where it is the closest to being straight.
3. Stitch slowly, easing the fabric into the binding as you go. To keep “on track", stop periodically, with your needle in the down position, and pivot your fabric slightly.

Turning the corner – or how to make a mitered corner with your bias tape

Note: you will not be able to make a clean mitered corner unless your raw edge corners are sharp and true.

1. Always start in the middle of one side and work from the right side of your fabric. Unfold and pin bias tape to the right side of your fabric as described in the steps above.
2. Stitch the bias tape to the edge of the fabric, following the fold – also as described above.
3. Stop stitching ¼" from the corner. Back-tack to secure your seam.

   
4. Remove your project from the machine and clip your threads, but do not cut the bias tape.
5. Fold the bias tape straight up to create a 45˚ angle at the corner. 

   
6. Then, fold bias tape back down to make a 90˚ angle at the corner. Make sure your edges are lined up. Pin in place from this angled corner to the next corner.
7. Stitch in the fold from the corner point to the next corner. To find the exact corner starting point you can measure from the side edge of the tape to your fold line. Then, measure this same amount from the top edge. Start in the fold at this point. 

   
8. Repeat these same steps at all other corners.
9. When you’re done and have made it back around to where you started, remove your project from your machine and clip all threads.
10. Fold your bias tape up and flip your project over. You’ll see that a mitered corner forms automatically on the front side, but you’ll need to futz with things a bit on the back. I’m not sure if “futz" is an official sewing term, but it describes what you have to do to work with your corners, which will kind of curve out due to the pleat you made on the other side. 

    
11. Fold down the corner so it creates a diagonal line across the edge of your fabric’s corner.

    
12. Fold in the left side to create a 45˚ point.

    
13. Fold in the right side to create a matching 45˚ point.

    
14. Press well. Pin everything in place. To be extra safe, you could hand baste everything in place.
15. Depending on the width of your binding, you may want to slip stitch the back of your mitered corners to close any gap left after edgestitching.

Finishing

1. Remember when you measured your project for bias tape, and you added about an 1" or so to make sure you had enough for finishing the end. Remember that? You did that, right?
2. Now that you’ve made all your pretty mitered corners, and have them pinned or basted into place, you need to deal with the end of your bias tape. In the middle of the edge where your two ends come together, one edge should be stitched down and the other end should have that loose “tail" you accounted for at the beginning.
3. Fold under the end of the loose fabric to create a clean edge and wrap around the ends. Overlap about 1/2" and pin in place, matching your bottom edges.

   
4. Flip your project back over to the front and edge stitch all around to secure. If you’re worried about catching the back of your bias tape, you can edgestitch from the back. Just make sure that your bobbin thread is the correct color and that the bobbin tension will create a smooth, even stitch ... because if you’re stitching from the back, the bobbin thread stitching is what will show on the front.

   

Once you've done it, you won't believe how easy it is. Sometimes it's good to just practice on a scrap of fabric until you get the steps down and are happy with how your finished edgestitching looks. Like Mom always said, "Practice makes perfect!" Thanks, Mom.

Comments (46)

Kiddy said:

... Have my sixth great-grand coming in May and have never tried to miter corners. Thanks from an old lady for making it so easily understood. These blankets will be super!

January 29, 2012

Gran said:

... Wonderful Tutorial - mystery solved - I am so glad I found you!!!!

December 03, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... @ Dorothy Jean - take a look at our eyeglass case tutorial. It does a good job of showing the step-by-step of working with bias tape on corners and curves. Is this what you are searching for? http://sew4home.com/projects/storage-solutions/802-scrap-it-pendleton-wool-eyeglasssunglass-case

September 13, 2011

Dorothy Jean said:

... I'm still looking for how to sew the bias tape on an INSIDE corner .... not the outside where it's easy to miter the corners. Inside corners are a horse of a different color.

September 13, 2011

Karina said:

... I can't tell you how helpful this is. I tried making my owl potholders edged with bias tape and could not for the life of me get a neat rounded corner. I knew there had to be a better way. I'm excited to go give this a try. www.bunchesandbits.blogspot.com

August 30, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... @ Rosella -- take a look at this tutorial we did on a triangle mantle cloth -- very pointy: http://sew4home.com/projects/furniture-covers/760-lizs-qblissfulq-triangle-mantle-cloth

August 29, 2011

Rosella said:

... Great tutorial,but an wondering about binding a pointed table runner as the points are all not a 45 degree angles Will appreciate any input Marie

August 29, 2011

Marjan said:

... hi, I love your site, projects, tips and everything, thank you very much

August 06, 2011

Nina1952 said:

... Thank you for the excellent presentation! Very easy to understand! Nina

May 22, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Lisa F - I know exactly what you mean and we actually did a hot pad tutorial very similar to what you are describing. You can see within it how we handled the "dip" - Hope this helps: http://sew4home.com/projects/kitchen-linens/580-retro-fun-quilted-mitt-pot-holders

March 24, 2011

Lisa F. said:

... I am binding heart-shaped hot pads. The only problem I have with the binding is where the heart dips in to a point at the top between the two humps. I hope that makes sense. Any suggestions on how to do the binding there? Thanks, Lisa

March 23, 2011

agnes s. said:

... Great tutorial! So clear and helpful! Thanks!

February 21, 2011

Geoff said:

... Thanks for this. I have looked at quite a few tutorials and finally understood it. But your explanation and diagrams make it so simple, the best on the web. Now my granddaughter will finally get her quilt. It just needs the binding which will be done tonight. Thanks Geoff

January 29, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Nelly -- no you don't have to work with 1 yard. We used it for our instructions as a common starting point. The amount you need to start with kind of depends on how much finished tape you need. Have fun!

January 08, 2011

Nelly said:

... Do I have to use 1 yard of fabric, or can it be any size?

January 07, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi grada lamb -- I'm not sure where you are having trouble, but you can certainly follow the steps of the tutorial above, as well as our tutorial on faux mitered corners, which is a "slip-over-the-raw-edge" option: http://sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/470-how-to-make-faux-mitered-corners and our Moda ruffled table runner project, might give you some additional tips as well, it uses a more technique of matching raw edges and then folding the binding around to the back, http://sew4home.com/projects/table-linens/589-turquoise-2010-modas-ruffled-jelly-roll-table-runner- but to use this technique, you'd need to re-press the binding, so I'd recommend trying one of the first two options. All methods are valid ways to bind; it's up to how you want your finished project to look and how much time you want to spend on binding. Hope that helps.

December 13, 2010

grada lamb said:

... I need help to attach the Wright double fold bias tape (quilt) to my quilt. Never used the tape before, always made my own binding. Thank you Grada Lamb

December 12, 2010

Jansie 0920 said:

... Oh my gosh. Thank you SO much!!! I have messed up many projects because I just could not get the bias tape down correctly. I have read and even watched videos on other tutorials and no one goes over the part about what you do on the back side for mitered corners. No one! So, thanks. I really can't wait to try again.

November 21, 2010

Edwina J Murray said:

... This is the best written and clearest tutorial I have ever seen! The pictures are beautifully done, clear and concise! Thanks so much!

October 04, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Alison D -- you are so welcome. This is a very popular tutorial. You can attach binding as you describe, and I use this "slip on" technique as well, but you're right, it can be challenging to keep the lines of stitching even front to back. Also... sorry to have kept you up past midnight , but super glad you found so much to enjoy.

September 14, 2010

Alison D said:

... thank you thank you thank you! I am a newborn sewer (nearly one year sewing!!) and I have made my son a couple of cot panel quilts with pre-made bias. I have been trying to get them to look right as I thought you just put the middle of the binding around the edge of your fabric and somehow tried to sew a straight line while making sure both sides (front and back) of the bias are attaching! Needless to say there are several lines of stitching on some of his little blankets! Oh well - no-one else really see's them but its fantastic to know where I'm going wrong and how to do it right! I spent 3 hrs pouring through your site last night just loving all the projects - hubby had to call me to come to bed at midnight! I am so (sew!) inspired! Thank you guys so much! This website is definitely going in my favorites bar! Alison D

September 13, 2010

vtkatwoman said:

... This was a wonderful tutorial and because of it I can finally finish my project now. This is a subject that is not covered appropriately or understandably on other sites. Thanks for the help and I appreciate it.

August 28, 2010

Tascha said:

... This is simply amazing!! This is the most thorough, easy to understand bias tape tutorial I have ever seen. Now I can finish about 10 projects...haha Thanks again!

August 25, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi flakis -- the simple steps listed above are my best tips. As I mention, it's really more a matter of patience and practice than any secret. What is described here is traditional binding, which we also used on our hot pad tutorial (http://sew4home.com/projects/k...ot-holders) -- perhaps some of those steps and pictures will help you. You can also simply incase your edge between the folds and stitch in one step, which is what we did in our laminated apron tutorial (http://sew4home.com/projects/k...ject-apron) -- again, this might be a good one to review for pointers. But really, practice is your best friend. Go slowly and don't be afraid to use lots of pins.

August 04, 2010

flakis said:

... Please help, It is difficult for me to attatch bias tape to round corners. How to do it?

August 03, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Sheryl C -- We don't really focus much on garment sewing at this point in time (other than our cutie pie aprons), putting our energies instead toward the world of home decor. So, you might try the Tips & Tricks section online from Threads Magazine: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/tips-and-tricks, as well as their sister site CraftSylish: http://www.craftstylish.com/sewing. You can also find lots of great beginning sewing books at your local library. Have fun!

July 27, 2010

Sheryl C said:

... Absolutely the best instructions I have seen...easy to follow, thanks. I am fairly new to sewing and busy making easy summer dresses. Now I need to move forward and make dresses with sleeves and collars.....do you have any tips or links that may help me>

July 27, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Songbird53 - Yay! I believe that means we are "the best on the net" ... we're gonna run with that. Thanks, and we are so glad that you can stop searching and start sewing. Have fun.

June 19, 2010

Songbird53 said:

... I have been looking all over the Internet for directions & videos on how to do this, and this was absolutely the best! THANK YOU!!! Now I can quit searching & start sewing my project! PS: I accidentally pressed "report abuse" twice because I didn't realize what I was doing. It was a mistake, but I couldn't figure out how to correct it. Thanks again!!!!

June 19, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi cfbp -- great question - and you are completely right -- you don't have to use bias binding if you are doing straight edges. If fact, often here at S4H, we recommend seaming straight cut strips to create your binding. For example, on this recent quick baby blanket we made and posted last week, I used straight cut strips to create my binding: https://sew4home.com/projects/bed-linens/610-whimsy-ez-pre-quilted-baby-blanket

June 16, 2010

cfbp said:

... I only sew simple projects - but I'm wondering if it is always necessary to use a "bias" binding rather than a straight one if you are just sewing a straight border. For instance, a border of solid color fabric on a straight valance with no curves involved. I understand that it needs to bias in order to handle the curves. Thanks.

June 16, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hello again, re: gailanncreates' question about bias tape on inside corners. Here's the scoop from a good friend who is a garment expert: The problem in question concerns inside corners, not outside corners as illustrated in the beautiful instructions. For an inside corner, you must first mark the pivot point on the inside corner. This point is 1/4" from the sides. Stitch the bias tape to the scallop, up to the marked pivot point. Sink the needle into the fabric at this point. Rotate the fabric 90 degrees, and match the narrow edge of the binding to the edge of the scallop. Continue stitching. When the first stitching is complete, fold the bias to the wrong side, folding in the excess fullness at the inside corners. Slipstitch or machine stitch in place.

November 09, 2009

liz.johnson said:

... So sorry about the link. Let's try that again: http://sew4home.com/projects/p...ent-pillow Your trim is cut on the bias, right? I'll do a little more noodlin' and see what tips we can come up with.

November 04, 2009

gailanncreates said:

... For whatever reason, I can't link to that page. I am doing a scalloped border (actually on a jacket). Picture a scalloped quilt edge, table runner, tree skirt, etc. Using satin bias on wool jacket. Pinning is not the issue; it's the corner technique that doesn't want to fold properly.

November 04, 2009

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi gailanncreates -- I\'m not 100% sure I\'m correctly envisioning what you are working on. Is is something like we describe in this tutorial: http://sew4home.com/projects/p...ent-pillow? This pillow project uses piping around a square within a square.

November 03, 2009

gailanncreates said:

... Any suggestions for attaching bias to inside corners?? I have ripped out twice!

November 03, 2009

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Mummsie -- with a round tablecloth, take a look at the tips above for attaching binding to a curved edge. With curves, it's all about patience and not pulling the fabric or your binding as you sew. Go slowly, only then can you effectively ease your fabric into the binding. I'm generous with my pins, removing them only when my needle is in the down position so there's no shifting. You finish the ends in the same way as described above. I'm sure it will turn out great!

October 28, 2009

mummsie said:

... I'm making a applique tablecloth for Christmas. It's round. Any tips for attaching the binding. After all this hand work I want the edge PERFECT!!! Many Thanks

October 27, 2009

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi bederi -- Yea! Love to hear that. We aim to please here at sew4home.com. Let us know how it turns out (no pun intended). We always love to see pictures.

October 05, 2009

bederi said:

... Thanks so much for this information. I have been trying to make an apron and have not been able to find clear directions for turning the corner until now!

October 05, 2009

Lynne said:

... Thanks for your reply Alison, this is just the technique I was looking for

August 10, 2009

alison.newman said:

... Hi Lynne, I wanted to answer your question about continuous bias binding. You have heard of it somewhere! When you make continuous bias binding you mark a piece of fabric for cutting, then sew the fabric into a tube - this way when you make your cuts, your fabric is already sewn into one long strip - sort of the same idea as those chains of paper dolls. We\'re planning a tutorial on this technique for the future, but in the meantime, check out this explanation: http://www.ctpubblog.com/2009/07/07/quilting-tips-binding/ It does a great job of explaining this technique, which is kind of confusing when you read about it!

August 05, 2009

liz.johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi MIMARY -- sorry for the confusion. Let's start back at step one in the "Attaching bias tape" section: you want to unfold that NARROW edge and align that along the edge. Remember, your base fabric should be facing right side up and your bias tape is right side down .... the classic "right sides together." Stitch in that little ditch that's formed from pressing the narrow fold. Then, as you see in the subsequent steps, you fold the tape over to the back, which means that slightly wider folded part is at the back. You've sandwiched the raw edge of your base fabric. Press. Then stitch a final seam on the front side (so you're working with that narrow fold again). Stitch nice and close to that front folded edge. Because the wider fold is at the back, it is easier to insure you catch that back edge as you topstitch along the front. Does that make more sense? If not, let me know and I'll try to 'splain better. Thanks for visiting sew4home.

August 03, 2009

MIMARY said:

... i'M CONFUSED- DO YOU SEW THE WIDE SIDE FIRST - AS STATED IN FOLDING INSTRUCTIONS#3, OR SEW THE NARROW SIDE FIRST AS SHOWN IN THE ATTACHING DIRECTIONS? MINE NEVER LOOKS RIGHT- BUT THE BEST FOR ME IS TO SEW TO WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC THE NARROW SIDE FIRST- THEN FLIP OVER THE WIDEST SIDE AND TOOP STITCH TO RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC.

August 03, 2009

Lynne said:

... Hi, Thanks for the tutorial. Is there a way to make continuous bias binding? I'm sure I've heard of it somewhere. Thanks, Lynne

August 03, 2009

arhanna said:

... Informative, Thanks.

July 28, 2009

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