Our trio of soft stockings features handsome velvet cuffs and whimsical, dangling pom-poms. The rich tones of red, ivory, cream, spruce and chocolate are reminiscent of a brimming basket of Christmas potpourri. You can almost smell the cinnamon sticks simmering on the stove. We offer downloadable patterns for the body of the stocking and the cuff, and link you to our step-by-step tutorial for making custom the poms with a Clover Pom-Pom Maker.

We originally used the Lumiere de Noel holiday collection by French General, an older collection that is no longer readily available. But beautiful new possibilities come out every season. Check for new holiday options in the summer for the best selection!

We recommend a cotton velvet for the cuffs to create the same richness in both color and texture.

The stockings finish at approximately 19” tall from the top of the cuff to the tip of the toe.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing machine and standard presser foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: Yardages shown below are PER STOCKING, multiply to your heart’s content.

• ½ yard of 44″+ wide fabric for the stocking body
• ¾ yard of 44″+ wide fabric for the lining of the stocking body and stocking cuff
• ¼ yard of 44″+ wide fabric for the outside of the stocking cuff: we used a 56″ cotton velvet in Burgundy, Hunter and Brown
• ½ yard of low loft batting or craft fleece
• Two approximately 2½” pom-poms
  NOTE: We made our own using a Clover Pom-Pom Maker; in addition we made extra-dangly twisted cord hangers. Based on the thickness of the yarn, a standard skein of heavy-weight yarn should yield six-seven 2½” pom-poms.
• All purpose thread
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen, pencil or chalk
• Iron and ironing board
• Hand sewing needle
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Straight pins

Getting Started and Pattern Download

1. Download and print the FOUR pattern sheets: Stocking Cuff, Stocking Leg, Stocking Toe and Stocking Heel.
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide square on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out the pattern pieces along their solid lines.
3. Following the diagram on the printouts, tape the Stocking Leg, Toe and Heel pieces together to form one stocking body pattern. Butt the pieces together; do NOT overlap.
4. You will now have TWO patterns: the Stocking Cuff and your taped-together Stocking Body.
5. From the main body fabric, use the pattern to cut ONE stocking front and ONE stocking back.
   NOTE: Remember, you need to cut out your two pieces with your fabric folded either right sides together or wrong sides together. That way you end up with toes and heels that will match up correctly (nothing is sadder than two left feet!). If you prefer to work with your fabric flat, you will need to cut one piece with the pattern piece right side up and the other piece with the pattern piece flipped over to the wrong side. We like to work with wrong sides together so we can best see to fussy cut the fabric’s dominant design(s).
6. From the lining fabric, use our patterns to cut TWO body pieces and TWO cuff pieces.
7. From the low-loft batting, use our pattern to cut TWO body pieces.
8. From the outside cuff fabric, use our pattern to cut TWO cuff pieces.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Make the two stocking body ‘sandwiches’

1. Place the stocking body lining piece on your work surface WRONG side facing up. Place a batting piece on top it. Place the outside stocking body piece on top of the batting layer, RIGHT side facing up. That’s your ‘sandwich’: lining, batting, main fabric. Repeat to create a second sandwich with your remaining three layers.
   
2. Pin the sandwiches together through all layers.
3. Machine baste around the entire outside edge of the sandwiches, staying close to the raw edges.
   

Two choices for sewing front to back

1. The easiest option is to simply pin the two completed sandwiches right sides together (front sides together). Then, using a ½” seam allowance, stitch both sides and around the bottom, leaving the top open. Very carefully clip the curves, making sure to not clip into your seam.
   
2. Simply turn right side out and you have a finished stocking body. The seam inside will be raw, which you can leave as is, overcast the edges with your sewing machine, or pink the edges with your pinking shears.
3. The other option is to do a French seam , which is what we chose. To do this, place the front and back sandwiches WRONG sides together (right sides showing). Pin in place. Then, using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch both sides and around the bottom, leaving the top open.
   
4. Trim back the seam allowance very close to your stitching. You are trimming back to approximately ⅛”. Carefully clip the curves, again making sure you don’t clip into the seam.
   
5. Turn the stocking wrong side out (right sides are now together). You’ll need to carefully smooth out the seam and all the curves. You can also press the layers lightly.
6. Using a ¼” seam allowance (increase to ⅜” if necessary to insure you encase the first seam allowance), stitch AGAIN along both sides and around the bottom.
   
7. You’re encasing your first seam.
   
8. Turn the stocking right side out again. Smooth out all those curves again, and you have a lovely French seam for a clean inside finish.
   
9. If you are new to this technique, check out our step-by-step article on French Seams, one part of our four-part series on machine sewn finished.

Pom-poms

1. We made our fluffy pom-poms, using the Clover Pom-Pom Maker. You can do this too with help from our easy, step-by-step tutorial. Or… you can buy some big, ready-made pom-poms.
2. We also did a fancy little twisted cord technique for the pom hangers. If you are a knitter, you’ll recognize this easy technique right away. If not, there are lots of instructions online.
3. We cut one pom and hanger at approximately 9½” and the other at approximately 11½”.
4. Then we made a little loop for a hanging hook with the same twisted cord technique. The finished twisted cord should be approximately 6″ so you can loop it in half to 3″.
5. Place the two pom-poms and the loop on the INSIDE of the finished stocking body at the back side seam (the side seam in line with the stocking’s heel). The ends of the pom hangers and the raw ends of the hook loop should be flush with the top raw edge of the stocking; remember, the poms are hanging down to the inside of the stocking. Place the pom-pom ends on one side of the seam and the hook loop ends on the other side. Machine or hand baste very close to the edge, approximately ⅛”, to secure all the ends.
   
6. Set the stocking body aside.

Create and attach the cuff

1. Find the two outside cuff pieces and the two lining cuff pieces.
2. Place the two lining pieces right sides together, aligning the raw edges on all sides. Pin together along both the long and short sides.
3. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch both the long and short sides.
4. Repeat with the two outside cuff pieces.
   
5. You now have two ‘cuff circles.’ Press open the seam allowances.
   
6. Turn the lining cuff circle right side out and keep the outside cuff circle wrong side out.
7. Slip the lining cuff circle inside the outside cuff circle. The two cuff circles are now right sides together. Match up the side seams.
   
8. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along the entire bottom edge of the cuff circles. If you have a free arm on your machine, now is a good time to use it.
9. To create the cuff’s finished angles (the nice point at the back and squared edge at the front), you need to make sure to carefully sew into each side seam, stopping with your needle in the down position exactly on the seam, then pivot, and continue.
   
10. Clip the seam allowance away from the points, and turn the cuff right side out.
11. Using a long, blunt-end tool, like a knitting needle or chopstick, gently push out the point. Finger press the seam.
12. Pull the lining cuff out and away from the outside cuff.
13. Turn under the raw edge of the lining ½” and press
    
14. With the lining still pulled away from the outside fabric, slide the cuff inside the finished body of the stocking. The lining slides in first, allowing the top raw edge of the outside cuff to line up with the top raw edge of the stocking body.
    
15. Here’s the position of everything: The stocking toe is pointing to the left. The back ‘point’ of the cuff should be against the back side seam of the stocking. The short front seam of the cuff should be against the front side seam of the stocking. The RIGHT side of the cuff (the velvet in our sample) should be against the WRONG side (the lining) of the stocking. The pom-poms and hook loop are sandwiched between the cuff and the stocking.
16. Pin around the top of the stocking through all the layers.
17. Stitch around the top of the stocking through all the layers, using a ⅜” seam allowance. Again, this is a great time to use your free arm.
    
18. Pull the cuff all the way out from the inside of the stocking. Press the seam allowance up toward the cuff.
19. Bring the pressed-under edge of the lining down over the seam allowance, covering the raw edges for a clean finish. Pin in place.
20. Thread a hand sewing needle and hand stitch the lining in place over the seam allowance.
21. Fold the cuff all the way down into place. Carefully iron from the inside so you don’t mar the velvet.
    
22. Flip out the pom-poms and pull up the hook loop.
    

Project Concept: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Natalie Lawrie