All I want is a place for my stuff. Actually, I also want world peace and maybe to win the lottery, but for now… I’m good with a place for my stuff. These soft, round baskets are designed to hold all kinds of stuff and look great doing it. Put one on a countertop to hold kitchen utensils or bath necessities. Make a bunch and line them up for a row of instant organization. We added a tab on the front with cotton webbing and an O-ring. It looks nice and adds interesting texture, but it’s also functional, acting as a pull tab. You can fill up a shelf all the way to the top with a batch of baskets, then access each with its tab and ring, sliding one out just like using a drawer pull.

From hiding messy cords to holding knitting or other creative supplies, these baskets could easily find a home in any room. Or, pack one with some items to give as a mini gift basket.

The baskets are stabilized with a trio of products: fusible fleece for the sides in combination with a lightweight interfacing for the lining. The base uses a heavy-weight interfacing panel for extra stability. When finished, they are meant to have a soft slouch – perfect for the antique look of the fabrics we originally selected from the Eclectic Elements collection by Tim Holtz for FreeSpirit Fabrics.

Each basket finishes with an 8″ diameter base and is approximately 8″ tall, after the 2½” cuff is folded down into place. Of course you could adjust them larger or smaller to best fit your organizational needs or shelving space.

The fold-over cuff is a great way to showcase coordinating fabrics. As mentioned above, we added a loop and metal ring to the cuff to use as a “drawer pull,” allowing you to access the baskets when lined up on a shelf. You could also use it to ID the basket contents, clip on a key to keep it handy, or attach a gift tag.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing machine and standard presser foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: Supplies shown are for ONE basket, but we have listed the fabrics we used for both of our samples.

• ½ yard of 44-45″ wide cotton for the exterior sides and the lining base; we originally used Game Pieces in Neutral and Subway Signs in Neutral from the Eclectic Elements Collection by Time Holtz for FreeSpirit Fabrics
• ½ yard of 44-45″ wide cotton for the lining sides and the exterior base; we originally used Ticking in Red and Measurements in Neutral from the Eclectic Elements Collection by Time Holtz for FreeSpirit Fabrics
• ¾ yard of 20″+ wide lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Shir-Tailor
• ½ yard of 45″+ wide fusible fleece; we used 45″ Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
• ¼ yard of extra-firm fusible interfacing; we used a 9″ x 9″ square of Timtex
• Scrap or ⅛ yard of 1″ cotton webbing; we used natural
• ONE 1¼” O-ring or D-ring; we used an antique brass O-ring
• All-purpose thread to match fabrics
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins

Getting Started and Pattern Download

1. Download and print out THREE copies of the Base Pattern.
   IMPORTANT: This pattern is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
2. Cut out one pattern piece along the solid line. This pattern will be used to cut the fabric.
3. Cut the other two pattern pieces along the dotted line, trimming away the seam allowance. Butt together the two pieces and tape along the center fold line to create a complete circle. This will be used to cut the lightweight interfacing and the extra-firm interfacing.
   
4. From the fabric for the exterior sides and the lining base (Game Pieces in Neutral and Subway Signs in Neutral in our samples), cut the following:
   ONE 26″ wide x 11½” high rectangle
   Using the base pattern, one 9″ circle on the fold
5. From the fabric for the lining sides and the exterior base (Ticking in Red and Measurements in Neutral in our samples), cut the following:
   ONE 26″ wide x 11½” high rectangle
   Using the base pattern, one 9″ circle on the fold
   NOTE: We designed our baskets so the exterior base (what you see from the outside) matches the lining – so the base and the cuff are matching. Then, the lining base (what you see from the inside) is cut from the exterior fabric. It’s a nice mix-and-match variation. You could certainly cut both bases to match their respective sidewalls.
   
6. From the lightweight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   ONE 25″ x 10½” rectangle
   Using the 8″ full circle pattern, cut one circle
7. From the fusible fleece, cut ONE 25″ x 10½” rectangle.
8. From the extra firm fusible interfacing, use the 8″ full circle pattern to cut one circle.
9. Cut the cotton webbing into ONE 4″ length.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. Following manufacturer’s instruction, adhere the fusible fleece to the wrong side of the exterior panel. There should be ½” of fabric showing beyond the fleece on all sides.
   
2. Adhere the lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the lining panel. As above, there should be ½” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing on all sides.
   
3. Center the extra firm fusible interfacing circle on the wrong side of the exterior base and the lightweight fusible circle on the wrong side of the lining base. There should be ½” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing all around. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse both in place.
   NOTE: Remember, on our samples, the bases mix and match with the sides; ie. the fabric for the main lining piece is the fabric for the exterior base and vice versa.
   

Basket sides

1. Stay stitch along the bottom 26″ side of the exterior panel ½” in from the raw edge. Our exterior prints are directional, so the bottom edge is obvious. If your print isn’t directional, simply pick one side that will become the bottom edge.
   NOTE: Stay stitching is a single line of stitching that simply helps stabilize the fabric to prevent stretching or distortion. In this project, it will also provide us with a seam line to follow later in the instructions.
   
2. Fold the panel in half, aligning the 11½” raw edges. Pin in place.
3. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch together to form a tube.
   
4. Press the seam allowance open and flat.
5. Turn the tube right side out.
6. Lengthen the stitch.
7. Topstitch along either side of the seam in a coordinating or contrasting thread. We used coordinating.
   

Insert the base

1. Clip the raw edges of the open bottom end of the tube. Clip approximately every ¾”, up to but not through the stay stitching.
   
2. Find the exterior base with the firm interfacing fused in place. (Remember, the exterior base is a different fabric from the exterior sides in our samples.)
3. Fold the circle in half and then in half again to find the four quarter points of the circle. Mark each point with a pin. It’s like the 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 points on a clock face.
4. In order to create marks on the basket tube that will line up with the pin marks on the base, you need to press the ends of the tube into quadrants as well.
5. Gently pull the seam to the right, so you can press a fold directly opposite the seam.
6. Now, gently pull the tube in the opposite direction, matching up the seam and the first crease, and press two additional creases at each side.
7. The seam and the three pin marks will now match the quadrant pins on the base circle.
8. Place the base right sides together with circular bottom opening of the tube, aligning all the pin points. Easing the fabric, fill in the rest of the circle with pins. If you have done garment sewing, this is very similar to putting in a sleeve.
   
9. Re-set the stitch length to normal.
10. Stitch the layers together. Work with the base against the bed of your sewing machine and the exterior panel on top so you can follow along in the original line of stay stitching.
    
11. Repeat all these steps to create a matching lining basket. Turn the lining basket right side out. Leave the exterior basket wrong side out.
    NOTE: If you are brand new to this technique, check out our full, step-by-step tutorial: How to Insert a Flat Circle into a Tube.
    
    

Finishing

1. Find the ring and the 4″ length of webbing.
2. Slip the webbing through the ring. Align the raw ends of the webbing.
   
3. Pin the webbing in place on the top raw edge of the exterior basket directly opposite the seam.The ends of the webbing should be flush with the top raw edge of the fabric.
   
4. Find the exterior basket. It should be wrong side out.
5. Find the lining basket. It should be right side out.
6. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two baskets are now right sides together, sandwiching the webbing and ring between the layers.
   
7. Pin the layers together around the top, leaving a 4″ opening along the back (by the seam).
8. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around the top. Go slowly to maintain a precise seam allowance and remember to lock the seam on either side of the 4″ opening.
   
9. Turn the basket right side out through the 4″ opening.
10. Smooth the lining down into place, aligning the seams and the bases.
11. Fold in the edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press well. Pin in place.
12. Lengthen the stitch. Use the same thread color that you used for the topstitching along the exterior back seam.
13. Edgestitch around the entire top opening. This secures the two layers and closes the opening used for turning. Make sure to pull the webbing loop up and out of the way of the needle.
    
14. Fold the top down about 2½” to create the cuff and reveal the webbing tab and ring.
    

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler