I am a coupon clipper; I even keep the ones that spit out like some sort of crazy jackpot with my grocery receipt. They all end up in a kitchen drawer, which is usually where they are when I really need them. If I do manage to remember to bring them to the store, it's so hard to find the one I need, I often just give up. Our solution is this pretty Coupon Organizer & Wallet. It has seven pockets so you can sort coupons, frequent shopper punch cards, gift cards, and more into specific sections. Now they will be easy to find, and therefore, easy to use. Never pay full price again!
Today's Wallet is officially for coupons, but it's so pretty it could double as your everyday wallet. The project is so quick and super simple; why not make two – one for both jobs?!
The finished project folds up in thirds and is secured with an elastic loop and button. You could also use the elastic loop to hang the open wallet on a kitchen bulletin board, making it easy to drop new coupons into the proper pocket.
We originally used Keys in Red from the Just My Type collection by Patty Young for Michael Miller Fabrics, which is no longer available. No worries, try these one of these small-print options all available now at Fabric.com.
We added a pretty monogram within the vertical accent band. Click here to download the full alphabet and brackets. This free download is available in six major embroidery formats.
The wallet finishes at approximately 8½" x 13" when flat and about 8½" x 4¼" when folded.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Sewing Machine and a standard presser foot; you'll need an embroidery model to create our free monogram design - we suggest taking a look at the new Janome Skyline S9, which does both sewing and embroidery
- Quarter Inch Seam foot; optional
- Zipper foot; optional
Fabric and Other Supplies
- ¾ yard of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton for the exterior and all pockets; we originally used 44" Keys in Red from the Just My Type collection by Patty Young for Michael Miller Fabrics, which is no longer available - check out the alternatives linked above
- ⅛ - ¼ yard of 44"+ wide medium weight twill or similar for the accent band; we used 60" Organic Cotton Twill in Winter White
NOTE: You need a piece large enough to hoop for embroidery if you choose to do the monogram; the exact size will depend on your machine's available embroidery hoops. The finished accent band will trim down to 2½" x 14".
- ¼ yard of 45"+ wide fusible fleece; we used Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
- 1 yard of 20"+ wide lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 950F Shir-Tailor®
- ONE ¾" - 1" button; we used a white button from our stash to coordinate with the round number motif in the fabric
- ONE thin elastic hairband; we used black
- Stabilizer for the optional embroidery as recommended for your embroidery machine
- All purpose thread to match fabrics
- Embroidery thread to coordinate with the main fabric for optional monogram; we used steel gray
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Iron and ironing board
- Straight pins
- Hand sewing needle
- From the fabric from the main fabric, cut the following:
TWO 9½" wide x 14" high rectangle for the exterior panels
TWO 9" wide x 8" high rectangles for the A pockets
TWO 9" wide x 6" high rectangles for the B pockets
ONE 9" wide x 7" high rectangle for the C pocket
ONE 9" wide x 5" high rectangle for the D pocket
- From the fabric for the accent band, cut the following:
If monogramming, cut ONE strip big enough to hoop, it will be trimmed to 2½" x 14" with the embroidery sitting at the bottom end of the strip.
If not monogramming, cut ONE 2½" x 14" strip
- From the fusible fleece, cut the following:
TWO 4¼" x 8" rectangles
ONE 3¾" x 8" rectangle
- From the lightweight interfacing, cut the following:
ONE 9" wide x 13½" high rectangle
TWO 9" wide x 8" high rectangles
TWO 9" wide x 6" high rectangles
ONE 9" wide x 7" high rectangle
ONE 9" wide x 5" high rectangle
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- Download the free font collection in the proper format for your machine.
- Hoop the twill fabric and stabilizer. Monogram the letter of your choice surrounded by the brackets.
- Trim the finished monogrammed piece to 2½" x 14", positioning the embroidery so it is centered side to side within the 2½"" width. The bottom-most curve of the brackets should be approximately 2" up from the bottom raw edge of the strip
Prepare and attach the accent band
- Fold back both long raw edges of each strip ¼". Press.
- Machine baste the folds in place. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot.
- Find one 9½" x 14" exterior panel. Fold the panel in half (so it is now 4¾" x 14") and lightly press to set a center crease. Unfold right side up so the crease line is visible.
- Fold the accent band in half lengthwise and mark the center point at the top and bottom of the strip.
- Center the accent band on the right side of the exterior panel, centering it over the panel's crease line and using the accent band's top and bottom pin points as additional guides. Pin the band in place.
- Thread the machine with thread to match the exterior fabric in the top and bobbin, which should be a contrasting color to the accent band. We used salmon pink in our sample.
- Edgestitch along both sides. This edgestitching should be as close as possible to the outer folded edges of the accent band, and so well out of the way of the machine basting stitches.
- Remove the basting stitches.
- Find the hairband. Center it within the accent band at the bottom. Pinch to form an approximate ¾" loop. Pin in place.
- Machine baste in place close to the raw edge of the fabric.
- Flip this sewn panel to the wrong side. Find the 9" x 13½" rectangle of lightweight fusible interfacing. Center the interfacing so there is fabric showing evenly along all four sides. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the sewn panel.
Prepare the interior pocket panel
- Find the remaining 9½" x 14" main panel.
- Using a fabric pen or pencil, draw in the following guidelines: ½" in along all four raw side edges as a seam allowance guideline, a horizontal line 4½" down from the top 9½" raw edge, and a horizontal line 9" down from and parallel with the top 9½" raw edge.
- Find all the pocket pieces and all the remaining lightweight interfacing pieces.
- All the pockets are made in the same manner, so you can sent up an assembly line to finish each using the same steps.
- Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse an appropriately-sized interfacing piece to the wrong side of each pocket piece.
- Fold all the pockets in half widthwise, retaining the 9" width of each piece but with varying heights. Pin along the both sides and across the bottom of each of the six pockets, leaving an approximate 2-3" opening along the bottom edge for turning.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch down both side seams and across the bottom of each pocket. Remember to pivot at the corners and to lock the seam on either side of the 2-3" opening left for turning.
- Clip the corners and press open the seam allowances on each pocket.
- Turn each pocket right side out. Using a blunt-end tool, such as a long knitting needle, chopstick or point turner, gently push out the corners so they are nice and square. Press each pocket flat.
NOTE: Keep track of your pockets so you know which are the A, B, C and D pieces.
- Find the three pieces of fusible fleece and the main panel with its marked guidelines.
- Place the fleece onto the wrong side of the main panel. Centering each fleece panel within the guidelines side to side and top to bottom. The two slightly larger panels go in the top and middle sections, the smaller panel in the bottom section. There should be gaps between the panels as shown in the photo below to allow for folding.
- Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the fleece panels in place.
- Find the C and D pockets. Place the D pocket on top of the C pocket, aligning the bottom and sides. Pin together.
- Find the fused main panel. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
- Place the first pocket unit (C/D) at the bottom of the main panel. The top edge of the pocket unit should sit ½" below the 9" marked fold line. The bottom edge should sit 1" up from the bottom raw edge of the panel. The sides should each be approximately ⅛" in from the seam allowance guidelines.
- Find the center of the D pocket, measuring side to side. Draw a vertical line, dividing the pocket into two sections.
- Topstitch along the drawn line through all the layers. Remember, this line goes only from the bottom to the top of the D pocket (the bottom pocket of the two-pocket unit). If possible, use a lock stitch to secure the start and end of the topstitching seam. If your machine does not have this feature, leave the thread tails long and knot at the back to secure.
- Edgestitch along both sides and across the bottom of the pocket unit to completely attach them to the panel. Pivot sharply at the corners.
- Find the remaining A and B pockets. There should be two of each.
- Place a pocket B on each pocket A to create two A/B pairs. As above, align the sides and the bottom edges.
- Place one pair in the center section. The bottom edge should ½" up from the lower horizontal fold line. The top edge should ½" below the upper horizontal fold line. The sides should each be approximately ⅛" in from the seam allowance guidelines. Pin in place.
- Place the remaining pair in the top section. The bottom edge should ½" up from the horizontal fold line. The top edge should 1" below the top raw edge of the panel. The sides should each be approximately ⅛" in from the seam allowance guidelines. Pin in place.
- Edgestitch each pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom. Always remember to pivot at all the corners.
Assemble to finish
- Place the front and back panels right sides together, aligning all four raw edges. The bottom of the exterior panel (with its monogrammed 'e' and hair band) should be matched up with the top of the interior pocket panel (with the A/B pocket pair on top).
- Pin in place along the all sides, leaving an approximate 7½" opening along the bottom of the interior/top of the exterior edge.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around the perimeter. Remember to pivot at all the corners and lock your seam at either side of the 7½" opening. This size of opening means you are essentially just stitching around the corners and leaving the majority of this side open.
NOTE: We used our Zipper foot for this seam because of the bulky edges of the pockets sandwiched between the layers. This foot allowed us to get in close for a nice, straight seam.
- Clip all the corners and press open the seam allowances.
- Turn right side out through the opening. As above for the pockets, use a blunt-end tool, such as a long knitting needle, chopstick or point turner to gently push out the corners so they are nice and square. Press flat.
- Press in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
- Thread a hand sewing needle with thread to best match the fabric and slip stitch the opening closed with even, tiny stitches.
- Fold the wallet into thirds to close, following the previously marked lines. It should fold easily since there are breaks between the pieces of fusible fleece.
- With the wallet correctly closed, stretch the elastic loop around the base and mark the placement for the button.
- Stitch the button in place.
- Remember to wash away or erase any marked guidelines still visible on the inside.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild