shannon leaderboard_Feb2017

Facebook Twitter Sew4Home RSS Feed Follow Me on Pinterest Instagram

Sew4Home

Toasty Fleece & Faux Fur Loop Scarves

Printer-friendly versionSend by emailPDF version

Soft and warm – the two just go together. So that's just what we did! Our double-sided infinity loop scarf is super fast and fun. And, with so many great options in both fleece and faux fur, you can bundle up everyone. We used two printed, super cuddly minky fleece fabrics for one scarf. On the other, we combined a printed minky fleece with another amazing minky that features a faux fur finish that mimics curly llama. Both pairings are silky soft with a fluid drape that begs to be wrapped up tight. 

Our scarves finish at approximately 86" in circumference x 12" in width. This size is plenty of length for a cozy double loop (or many other loop-and-twist styles) on most people. 

One of the ultimate tests of a project's popularity is always our models. If they want to take the samples home, we know we have a winner. It was chilly on the shoot day for these beauties, and our model was not happy to have to give up her toasty scarves!

You'll love the Minky Curly Llama, which comes in nine pretty colors so you can mix and match with your favorite printed or solid fleece. We went with natural tones, but the jewel tones would also be lovely, such as the Curly Llama in Teal with the Dolce Vita Minky Cuddle from Premier Prints in Capri Teal. Or go with the elegance of frosty neutrals, like Curly Llama in White with Cuddle Baby Jaguar in Silver.

     

     

Our past infinity loop scarves (in voile and sparkling knit) were made with a single fabric. These beautiful wraps are each made from two different fabrics, so pay close attention to the instructions below for layering and cutting the angles. 

If you're new to working with fabric that has a deep nap, take a look at our full Faux Fur Tutorial, which includes tips for cutting, pinning and stitching. We recommend clips to help hold things together, and a Walking or Even Feed foot to help keep the slippery layers under control. 

Because we're working with such large strips of fabric, photography at actual size is a challenge. Instead, we made a mini version of one scarf to be able to capture the steps within the standard frame of the camera. 

Don't let this throw you as you walk through the instructions below and view our Barbie® scarf version at the end. Tiny is cute, but for these loop scarves, long and luscious is best.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies


The yardage recommended includes a bit extra to allow for fussy cutting a print as also "lengthening" a narrower width fabric as described below. 

Getting Started

  1. From EACH fabric in your pair, cut TWO 13" high x WOF (width of fabric) rectangles.
    NOTE: If you have fabrics of two slightly different widths (as we did with the fleece/llama scarf), you have two options: 1) you can simply work with the narrower WOF, cutting the wider width to fit. Keep in mind that we recommend going no narrower than 58". Or, 2) if you wish to stay with the wider width, add a chunk to one end of each narrower strip. Remember to account for your ½" seam allowance. For example, our faux llama was 58" and the fleece was 60". So, we cut two 13" x 3" pieces - one for each faux llama strip. After stitching in place on our 58" length, the new length equaled 60" to match the fleece. The formula was: 58" + 3" - 1" seam allowance (½" on each piece).
  2. You're cutting and seaming on the diagonal and working with two pairs of different fabrics, so how you layer and cut your fabrics is very important for everything to match.
  3. Separate the rectangles into two matching pairs. For the first pair, place each rectangle RIGHT SIDE UP. For the second pair, place each rectangle RIGHT SIDE DOWN. Then stack the two pairs together one on top of the other. 
  4. Make sure all four layers are flat and smooth and all edges are flush. 
  5. You will be making two 45˚ cuts, one on each end. As shown in the diagram below, the two cuts are parallel, one goes down from the top left corner, the other goes up from bottom right corner. You'll discard the ends you cut away and just work with four center segments.
  6. The easiest way to set up this cut is to align your see-through ruler along a 45˚ grid line on your cutting mat. You can then slice each angle with a rotary cutter. If you do not have a cutting mat with grid lines, use a ruler and protractor to calculate and draw in your 45˚ angles.
  7. Below you can see our four layers (right side up, right side up, right side down, right side down) after they have be cut. Remember, as we mentioned above, we made a mini version of the scarf in order to be able to capture the steps within the frame of the camera. Your pieces will be much larger than shown here.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

  1. To create each finished length, you need to stitch together each pair. Flip over all four lengths so they are right side up. Match up the angles as shown below.
  2. Place each pair right sides together, aligning along the angled ends. The two lengths of the fabric will form a right angle, and at the seam line, the points will extend beyond the straight edges by ½". This is similar to how you stitch together strips of bias binding. Pin in place.
  3. One pair will form a right angle with the strip running up...
  4. And the other pair will form a right angle with the strip running down.
  5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch each pair together to create two finished lengths. We used our Walking foot for all stitching. 
  6. Gently press open the seam allowances from the wrong side – you don't want to press on the right side of fleece.
  7. Measure and mark 3" in from each square end of each piece. Don't forget, our photos are from our mini version we created just for photography purposes.
  8. And, mark 3" in from each pointy end of each piece. 
  9. These sets of marks will become your starting and stopping points for each side seam. 
  10. Place the two lengths right sides together and pin in place along both long sides, aligning the 3" pin points and the center diagonal seams.
  11. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the two pieces together along both long sides. 
  12. Remember to start and stop 3" from each end at your pin marks.
  13. Gently press the seams open.
  14. Turn the scarf right side out through the open ends. Gently press flat.
    NOTE: Because we were working with fleece, we used a pressing cloth and low heat when pressing from the right side. Simply finger pressing also works.
  15. With the scarf still right side out, fold it in half and match up the raw ends.
  16. Fold the outer ends out of the way and place the innermost ends right sides together. Pin in place. As above, the angled ends will extend ½" on each side.
  17. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the layers together. 
  18. Twist the scarf around and pull it inside out a bit so you can now match up the remaining two outermost raw ends. 
  19. Place these ends right sides together and pin in place.
  20. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch these layers together. 
  21. Using the 6" gaps still remaining in the side seams, adjust the scarf so the entire loop is now right side out.
  22. Reach in and place the raw edges of one "side gap" right sides together. You'll need to pull them through the other side of the gap towards you in order to pin in place to complete the seam.  
    NOTE: This is a tough step to capture in a photograph, but it will make sense when you have the scarf in your hands. You are just closing the gap in one of the side seams.
  23. Stitch together, making sure your new seam to close the "gap" is flush with the sewn seam.
  24. Push the completed side seam through the open gap and back into position. The final side seam gap must be hand sewn. 
  25. Fold in the raw edges of the remaining gap so they are flush with the sewn seam. Pin in place. 
  26. Slip stitch the opening closed.
  27. Here's our tiny Barbie® scarf loop.

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild

Section: 

Comments (6)

Joan S said:
Joan S's picture

If I have 2 yards of each fabric, can't I just cut one piece of each? What's the reason for cutting 45 degree angles? Would it be too bulky to sew straight edges?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Joan S - You are working in a circle, so you want to cut and seam on the diagonal in order to give the "joint" the ability to stretch along the bias and allow your finished scarf to smoothly curve as you loop it around.

Lucinda Rose said:
Lucinda Rose's picture

Please explain what type of needle is used, universal, ball point, sharp/denium 

Or microtex.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Lucinda - As we mention in the linked article about Sewing with Faux Fur, a standard presser foot and universal needle are fine for faux fur. Just remember, as always, to start each new project with a new needle. Microtex or ballpoint are usually best for fleece, although you can work with a universal - it's best if it is new.

Isabel Archer said:
Isabel Archer's picture

Oh my goodness, what an amazing scarf--this goes to the top of my to-do list immediately. Thanks for a great tutorial, brilliant as always and so adaptable :) I hope working with fleese won't prove too difficult, so looking forward to giving it a try!

Plus the model has got some gorgeous glasses :)))

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Isabel - Thanks! Fleece is really quite easy to work with. Start with a new needle and use a Walking foot if at all possible, and you should sail right along. And yes, those are killer shades 

Add new comment

*Sew4Home reserves the right to restrict comments that don’t relate to the article, contain profanity, personal attacks or promote personal or other business.
By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.