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Doesn’t it seem like some stores start putting out holiday decorations at exactly the same time as the fun size Halloween Snickers® bars. Every year it creeps a bit closer. Soon, we’ll be listening to “Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer” as we pack the back-to-school lunches! Whenever you choose to decorate for the holidays, you’ll want these luxurious Christmas stockings on your list. Green and red velvet are not the only options. In fact, we have it on high authority that Santa Claus prefers bright colors (must be those summers he spends in Florida).

The “rustic look” has been a hot trend for years. Fur and leather (real and faux) are showing up on everything from pillows to wearables, and it’s everywhere for holiday décor. If you’re a S4H regular, you know we like to pick up the latest trends, then give them our own special twist. So we by-passed the neutrals and went with four different jewel tone faux suede fabrics for our Christmas stockings. Matching Mongolian-style faux fur on the cuffs ties them all together, and gorgeous wide ribbon accents from Renaissance Ribbons give them their Nordic feel.

You’ll find a free pattern download below as well as all the step-by-step instructions, including tips on working with faux fur and sewing with ribbons.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies


NOTE: Amounts shown below are for ONE stocking. 

  • ½ yard of 44″+ wide medium weight faux suede or similar for the stocking body; we originally used 58″, 100% polyester Vintage Suede in Fuchsia, Kiwi, White, and Aubergine
  • ½ yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight cotton for the stocking lining; we originally used Cotton Couture Broadcloth by Michael Miller in Soft White
  • ¼ yard of 44″+ wide faux fur for the stocking cuff; we originally used 58″ Curly Mongolian Faux Fur in White
  • ½ yard of low loft, craft fleece
  • 1½ yards of 1½” –  2″ wide decorative ribbon; we originally used 2″ wide Amy Butler Ribbon by Renaissance Ribbons – you can search the entire Renaissance Ribbons selection by width to find your favorites
  • ¼ yard of ⅛” satin rattail cording or similar; we originally used Satin String Rattail in White
  • All purpose thread to match fabric
  • All purpose thread to match ribbons and/or Invisible Thread in Clear; we used invisible thread
  • See-through ruler
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Seam gauge
  • Seam ripper
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Straight pins

Getting Started and Pattern Download

  1. Download and print out our THREE pattern sheets: Stocking Heel Template, Stocking Leg Template, Stocking Toe Template.
    IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
  2. Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line.
  3. Butt together (do not overlap) the three pattern pieces, aligning the arrows printed on the patterns. Tape together to create one full stocking pattern.
  4. Fold the fabric for the body of the stocking (Vintage Suede in our sample) right sides together. Use the pattern to cut TWO stockings. Transfer the four dots on the pattern to the right side of each stocking, using a fabric pen or pins. These dots will be used later to align the ribbons.
  5. Fold the fabric for the stocking lining (Cotton Couture Broadcloth in our sample) right sides together. Use the pattern to cut TWO stockings.
  6. Fold the batting right sides together. Use the pattern to cut TWO stockings.
  7. From the faux fur (Curly Mongolian in our sample), cut a 5″ x 15″ strip for the stocking cuff. Remember, when cutting faux fur, cut only the backing.

    NOTE: For other tips and techniques, see our tutorial on Sewing with Faux Fur.
  8. Cut a 9″ length of rattail.
  9. Leave the ribbon as one length. It will be cut when placed.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Stocking body

  1. Place the two stocking body pieces right side up and flat on your work surface.
  2. Measure 9″ down from the upper edge of each stocking piece.
  3. Place a length of decorative ribbon across the “ankle” at this 9″ measurement, centering a focal-point motif on your ribbon (on our sample, this focal-point was the pink and green floral motif) between the two marked dots (the dots from the pattern piece). Pin in place. Trim away the excess ribbon.
  4. Thread the machine with invisible thread in the top and bobbin or carefully select all-purpose thread to match each ribbon, re-threading as necessary as you move from ribbon to ribbon.
  5. Edgestitch the ribbons in place along both sides.
    NOTE: When stitching ribbon, it is best to stitch both sides in the same direction to help prevent rippling.
  6. With the horizontal ribbon in place, use the upper pattern dots as a guide to position a length of decorative ribbon down the length of the stocking vertically. Center the same focal-point motif on the vertical ribbon directly over the focal-point motif on the horizontal ribbon. Pin in place. Trim away the excess ribbon.
  7. Edgestitch the vertical ribbons in place along both sides.
  8. Place each stocking, with the ribbon sewn in place, right side up on a matching stocking piece cut from the batting. Pin the layers together.
  9. Place the front and back layers right sides together, creating a sandwich: batting, exterior, exterior, batting. Match the edges of the layers all around and pin together along the sides and around the bottom. Leave the upper edge (the top of the stocking) open.
  10. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin.
  11. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch through all the layers along both sides and around the bottom.
  12. Trim back the batting close to the line of stitching.
  13. Clip the seam allowances at the ankle, toe and heel.
    NOTE: For more information, take a look at our tutorial on Sewing Successful Curves.
  14. Turn the stocking right side out through the top opening. Gently smooth the seams and curves. We used a wooden spoon to smooth, which worked like a charm.

Stocking cuff

  1. Find the 5″ x 15″ faux fur strip for the stocking cuff. Our fur had a distinct direction to the nap of the fur. We combed the fur down into place so we could keep track of the top and the bottom.
    NOTE: There is no hem along the bottom edge of our cuff. The faux fur does not ravel so does not require a finished edge, and the super long nap of our fur selection could be combed down to cover the raw cut edge. If you use a fur with a short nap, you’ll need to make a tiny hem along one 15″ edge. Keep the hem as narrow as possible; only a single fold is required. You may want to cut the rectangle a bit wider than 5″ – perhaps 5½” to 6″.
  2. Fold the fur strip in half, right sides together, matching the 5″ ends. Pin in place; remember to tuck in the fur strands. Again, if you are new to working with faux fur, take a look at our Sewing with Faux Fur tutorial.
  3. Sew the ends together with a ½” seam allowance to form a loop.
  4. Finger press the seam open, and turn the cuff right side out.
  5. Find the stocking body. It should be right side out.
  6. Slip the cuff (also right side out) over the stocking, aligning the seam of the cuff with the back seam of the stocking. Align the upper edges of the stocking with the top raw edge of the cuff. (Remember, we had a distinct top and bottom to our cuff). Pin around the top edge.
  7. Find the 9″ length of rattail. Fold the rattail cord in half to form a small loop. Place the raw ends of the loop over the cuff seam. The raw ends of the rattail should be flush with the top raw edges of the stocking and cuff. Pin in place. You can also hand baste the loop in place for extra security.

Stocking lining

  1. Find the two lining pieces. Pin the pieces right sides together along both sides and across the bottom. Leave a 4″ opening along the bottom of the foot for turning.
  2. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, locking your seam at either side of the 4″ opening.
  3. As you did above with the exterior stocking body, clip the seam allowance at the ankle, toe and heel.
  4. With the lining still wrong side out and the exterior stocking right side out, gently slip the exterior stocking inside the lining so the lining and exterior are now right sides together and the cuff and loop are sandwiched between the layers. Align the seams and the toes.
  5. Re-pin through all the layers around the top of the stocking so you have just one set of pins.
  6. Using a ½” seam allowance, carefully sew around the top of the stocking through all the layers. Go slowly to insure the layers don’t shift.
  7. Pull the exterior stocking out through the opening at the bottom of the lining.
  8. When pulled completely apart, the stocking and the stocking lining will both be right sides out, with a toe at either end.
  9. Fold in the raw edges of the opening in the lining so they are flush with the sewn seam. Pin in place.
  10. To stitch the opening closed, set the machine to zig zag so the left swing of the needle goes into the fabric and the right swing of the needle is off the fabric.
  11. Push the stocking lining down into the stocking. Again, we used a wooden spoon to smooth the seams and help work the lining into the toe and heel. Smooth the cuff into place and pull up the rattail loop.


Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler

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4 years ago

Great post, the stockings you

Great post, the stockings you made look amazing! 

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