Soft and warm – the two just go together. So that’s just what we did! Our double-sided infinity loop scarf is super fast and fun. And, with so many great options in both fleece and faux fur, you can bundle up everyone. We used two printed, super cuddly fleece fabrics for one scarf. On the other, we combined a printed fleece with a faux fur that mimics curly llama. Both pairings are silky soft with a fluid drape that begs to be wrapped up tight.
Our scarves finish at approximately 86″ in circumference x 12″ in width. This size is plenty of length for a cozy double loop (or many other loop-and-twist styles) on most adults.
One of the ultimate tests of a project’s popularity is always our models. If they want to take the samples home, we know we have a winner. It was chilly on the shoot day for these beauties, and our model was not happy to have to give up her toasty scarves!
The exact fabrics we used are no longer readily available, but the options for toasty fabric are excellent this time of year both in-store and online.
If you’re new to working with fabric that has a deep nap, take a look at our Luxury Plush Tutorial as well as our Faux Fur Tutorial, both of which include tips for cutting, pinning, and stitching. We recommend clips to help hold things together, and a Walking or Even Feed foot to help keep the slippery layers under control. You can also engage your machine’s built-in fabric feeding system, such as the great AcuFeed™ Flex system on many of our Janome studio machines.
Because we’re working with such large strips of fabric, photography at actual size is a challenge. Instead, we made a mini version of one scarf to be able to capture the steps within the standard frame of the camera.
Don’t let this throw you as you walk through the instructions below and view our Barbie® scarf version at the end. Tiny is cute, but for these loop scarves, long and luscious is best.
To make this a gift that will warm through and through, download our free printable Hot Cocoa Recipe Card.
The recipe card is available here as a .PDF file. Click the image below to download. Print on a heavier weight paper for best results. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader DC, which is a free program. We’ve minimized the file size, but please be patient with the download process. In addition, make sure you have the latest version of Acrobat Reader DC, and the latest version of your printer driver. Adobe does always recommend a re-start of your computer with any update. If you are experiencing printing issues, you can also try the Print as Image option in your printer’s browser window. This option is often under the Advanced tab. You can also save the downloaded PDF to your computer and print from there.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
- Walking or Even Feed foot or similar; optional but helpful when working with the thick fleece layers. You could also engage your machine’s built-in fabric feeding system, such as the Janome AcuFeed™ Flex system we use on many of our studio machines.
Fabric and Other Supplies
NOTE: The yardage shown below is for ONE loop scarf and includes a bit extra to allow for fussy cutting a print as well as for “lengthening” a narrower-width fabric as described below.
- 1 yard EACH of TWO 58″+ wide, thick, single-sided fleece fabrics or one fleece fabric paired with a fluffy faux fur
- All purpose thread to match fabric
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Iron and ironing board
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Tape measure
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Straight pins or clips
- Hand sewing needle
- From EACH fabric in your pair, cut TWO 13″ high x WOF (width of fabric) rectangles.
NOTE: If you have fabrics of two slightly different widths (as we did with the fleece/llama scarf), you have two options: 1) you can simply work with the narrower WOF, cutting the wider width to fit. Keep in mind that we recommend going no narrower than 58″. Or, 2) if you wish to stay with the wider width, add a chunk to one end of each narrower strip. Remember to account for your ½” seam allowance. For example, our faux llama was 58″ and the fleece was 60″. So, we cut two 13″ x 3″ pieces – one for each faux llama strip. After stitching in place on our 58″ length, the new length equaled 60″ to match the fleece. The formula was: 58″ + 3″ – 1″ seam allowance (½” on each piece).
- You’re cutting and seaming on the diagonal and working with two pairs of different fabrics, so how you layer and cut your fabrics is very important for everything to match.
- Separate the rectangles into two matching pairs. For the first pair, place each rectangle RIGHT SIDE UP. For the second pair, place each rectangle RIGHT SIDE DOWN. Then stack the two pairs together one on top of the other.
- Make sure all four layers are flat and smooth and all edges are flush.
- You will be making two 45˚ cuts, one on each end. As shown in the diagram below, the two cuts are parallel, one goes down from the top left corner, the other goes up from bottom right corner. You’ll discard the ends you cut away and just work with four center segments.
- The easiest way to set up this cut is to align your see-through ruler along a 45˚ grid line on your cutting mat. You can then slice each angle with a rotary cutter. If you do not have a cutting mat with grid lines, use a ruler and protractor to calculate and draw in your 45˚ angles.
- Below you can see our four layers (right side up, right side up, right side down, right side down) after they have be cut. Remember, as we mentioned above, we made a mini version of the scarf in order to be able to capture the steps within the frame of the camera. Your pieces will be much larger than shown here.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- To create each finished length, you need to stitch together each pair. Flip over all four lengths so they are right side up. Match up the angles as shown below.
- Place each pair right sides together, aligning along the angled ends. The two lengths of the fabric will form a right angle, and at the seam line, the points will extend beyond the straight edges by ½”. This is similar to how you stitch together strips of bias binding. Pin in place.
- One pair will form a right angle with the strip running up…
- And the other pair will form a right angle with the strip running down.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch each pair together to create two finished lengths. We used our Walking foot for all stitching.
- Gently press open the seam allowances from the wrong side – you don’t want to use an iron on the right side of fleece; it could melt. A pressing cloth is another good idea.
- Measure and mark 3″ in from each square end of each piece. Don’t forget, our photos are from our mini version we created just for photography purposes.
- And, mark 3″ in from each pointy end of each piece.
- These sets of marks will become your starting and stopping points for each side seam.
- Place the two lengths right sides together and pin in place along both long sides, aligning the 3″ pin points and the center diagonal seams.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch the two pieces together along both long sides.
- Remember to start and stop 3″ from each end at your pin marks.
- Gently press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the scarf right side out through the open ends. Gently press flat.
NOTE: As mentioned above, because we were working with fleece, we used a pressing cloth and low heat when pressing from the right side. Simply finger pressing also works.
- With the scarf still right side out, fold it in half and match up the raw ends.
- Fold the outer ends out of the way and place the innermost ends right sides together. Pin in place. As above, the angled ends will extend ½” on each side.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch the layers together.
- Twist the scarf around and pull it inside out a bit so you can now match up the remaining two outermost raw ends.
- Place these ends right sides together and pin in place.
- Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch these layers together.
- Using the 6″ gaps still remaining in the side seams, adjust the scarf so the entire loop is now right side out.
- Reach in and place the raw edges of one “side gap” right sides together. You’ll need to pull them through the other side of the gap towards you in order to pin in place to complete the seam.
NOTE: This is a tough step to capture in a photograph, but it will make sense when you have the scarf in your hands. You are just closing the gap in one of the side seams.
- Stitch together, making sure your new seam to close the “gap” is flush with the sewn seam.
- Push the completed side seam through the open gap and back into position. The final side seam gap must be hand sewn.
- Fold in the raw edges of the remaining gap so they are flush with the sewn seam. Pin in place.
- Slip stitch the opening closed.
- Here’s our tiny Barbie® scarf loop.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild