Today begins our Gypsy Romance Series: seven bright, bohemian projects created from Pillow & Maxfield’s wonderful Gypsy Bandana fabric collection. We swirl out of the gates wrapped in a lush patchwork throw with pom pom embellishments and velvet accents. The generous 56″ x 56″ square features nine different fabrics arranged in an explosion of intoxicating color and pattern. Those horizontal strips are actually topstitched in place over the panel seams… so don’t be scared off thinking you’ll have to do teeny, accurate piecing. In signature S4H style, we make it easy to create a dynamic finished product.

Today begins our Gypsy Romance Series: seven bright, bohemian projects created from Pillow & Maxfield’s wonderful Gypsy Bandana fabric collection. We swirl out of the gates wrapped in a lush patchwork throw with pom pom embellishments and velvet accents. The generous 56″ x 56″ square features nine different fabrics arranged in an explosion of intoxicating color and pattern. Those horizontal strips are actually topstitched in place over the panel seams… so don’t be scared off thinking you’ll have to do teeny, accurate piecing. In signature S4H style, we make it easy to create a dynamic finished product.

Our thanks to Michael Miller Fabrics for providing all the beautiful Gypsy Bandana fabric from the Gypsy Jewel colorway. You can find it in store and online now, including at Fat Quarter Shop, Fabric.com and Quilt Home. Take a look at our interview with Val Pillow and Anne Maxfield to find out more about the creative spirits who bring these fabulous collections to life.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon 7700QCP)
• Zipper foot
• Walking foot (optional)
• Ditch Quilting foot (optional)

Fabric and Other Supplies

Refer to the layout diagrams below for cutting units. Note that our amounts are generous and allow for fussy cutting. Also, the cuts are sized specifically for the Gypsy Bandana fabric, so the width and height decisions shown are based on best use of the design not necessarily the most economical use of the fabric. If unsure or wishing to conserve, carefully look through the cutting instructions to judge how much of whichever fabric you choose may indeed be required.

• Fabric for front triangular corners A: ½ yard of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Moda’s cotton velvet in Hunter Green
• Fabric for front B piece: 1 yard of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Orange Gypsy Flower by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front C pieces and back C piece: 1¾ yards of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Aqua Gypsy Road by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front D piece and back D piece: 2½ yards of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Green Firefly by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front E piece: ½ yard of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Yellow Firefly by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front F piece: 1 yard of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Yellow Kaleidoscope by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front G piece and front triangular corner J: ½ yard of of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Red Gypsy Flower by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front H piece: 1 yard of 44-45″ wide fabric: we used Gypsy Bandana in Sapphire Gypsy Paisley by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front I piece: 1 yard of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Tonal Kaleidoscope by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front K piece and back K piece: 1¼ yards of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Sapphire Moonflower by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• Fabric for front L piece and back L piece: ½ yard of 44-45″ wide fabric; we used Gypsy Bandana in Kiwi Kaleidoscope by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics
• One piece of square batting at least 57″ height by 57″ width; we used Kyoto Bamboo batting from Fabric.com
• 7 yards of ½” pom poms on self tape/ binding; we used Apple Green ½” poms from CreateForLess
  NOTE: These poms are a great price, but you need to buy a minimum of 18 yards. Other outlets carry ½” pom tape by the yard in a variety of colors.
• All purpose thread
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Straight pins

Getting Started

Triangle template

1. Make a template for the corner triangles. To do this, cut a 15¾” square from paper. Draw a line from one corner diagonally to the opposite corner to form a triangle. Cut along the drawn line. Discard one of the triangles. The remaining triangle will be your template and includes the ½” seam allowance.

Cut all the pieces for the throw front and back

Refer to the diagrams above and follow the letters. As noted above, our instructions include some specific cutting instructions unique to the Gypsy Bandana fabric we used.

A pieces

1. Using the Triangle Template you just made, pin the template to the fabric and cut FOUR triangles.

B piece

1. Cut ONE rectangle 15″ wide x 29″ high. Measure 15″ down from the top edge of the rectangle along both the left and the right side. Mark both spots with a pin.
2. Pin the Triangle Corner Template at the top of the rectangle, so the right side of the template is lined up with the upper right side of the rectangle, and the bottom edge of the template is matches up with the pin marks at the left and right side of the rectangle. With these two sides aligned, both corner points of the paper template will extend beyond the fabric rectangle just a bit, as shown in the diagram below. This is correct.
   
3. Cut along the angled edge of the Triangle Template from the top right corner to the left side of the rectangle. Discard the small triangular piece of fabric (or save it to your scrap bag). You now have a rhombus-shaped fabric piece.
   

C pieces (the strips or ‘ribbons’)

1. Cut NINE 15″ x 4″ strips and ONE 57″ x 4″ strip. These are the ribbon accents that cover the seams on both the front and back of the throw. Because our Gypsy Bandana had a perfect stripe within one of its designs, we chose to cut strips and fashion our own ribbons. You could also use extra-wide ribbon (3″) should you not have a similar motif in the the fabric you choose. If you decide to work with ribbon, you do not have to complete the next folding and pressing steps, which create a folded edge(s).
2. For the Gypsy Bandana, use the main stripes within the Aqua Gypsy Road (there are two stripe designs; we used both), fussy cut to center the banded section of the print within the 4″ width. This will leave ½” of orange to either side of the green stripes. On SEVEN of the 15″ strips, as well as the 57″ strip, fold and press under this ½” of orange along both long raw edges. These will be your 15″ Double Pressed Bands and your 57″ Band.
   
3. For the TWO remaining 15″ strips, fold and press under the ½” of orange along just ONE long raw edge. These will be your 15″ Single Pressed Bands.
   

D piece – front

1. Cut a rectangle 15″ wide by 29″ high.
2. Similar to the B piece above (but the mirror image), Measure 15″ up from the bottom edge of the rectangle along both the left and the right side. Mark both spots with a pin.
3. Pin the Triangle Corner Template at the bottom of the rectangle, so the right side of the template is lined up with the lower right side of the rectangle, and the top edge of the template is matching up to the pin marks at the left and right side of the rectangle.
4. Cut along the angled edge of the Triangle Template from the bottom right corner to the left side of the rectangle. Discard the small triangular piece of fabric (or save it to your scrap bag). You now have a rhombus-shaped fabric piece that is a mirror image of piece B.

   

D piece – back

1. Cut ONE rectangle 43″ wide x 57″ high.

E piece

1. Cut ONE 15″ x 15″ square.

F piece

1. Cut ONE rectangle 15″ wide x 29″ high.

G piece

1. Cut ONE 15″ x 15″ square.

H piece

1. Cut ONE rectangle 15″ wide x 29″ high.

I piece

1. Cut ONE rectangle 15″ wide x 29″ high.

J piece

1. Using the Triangle Corner Template, pin the template to your fabric and cut out one triangle.
   

K piece – front

1. Cut ONE rectangle 15″ wide x 29″ high.

K piece – back

1. Cut ONE rectangle 15″ wide x 43″ high.

L piece – front

1. Using the Triangle Corner Template, pin the template to your fabric and cut out one triangle.
   

L piece – back

1. Cut ONE 15″ x 15″ square.

Other items

1. Cut the BATTING into a 57″ x 57″ square.
2. From the POM POM TAPE, cut four 23″ long strips. After these cuts, you should then have one reaming strip that is 160″.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

The front of the throw

In the instructions below, we will construct one panel at a time. We refer to these per the diagram above, reading from left to right: Panel 1, Panel 2, Panel 3 and Panel 4.

Panel 1

1. Pin one of the 23″ pom pom strips along the angled edge of the B piece, so the INSIDE edge of the pom pom tape is ½” from the raw edge of the fabric.
   
2. Using your zipper foot, stitch the pom strip in place. Trim away any excess length of pom pom tape at both ends.
   
   NOTE: The width of our pom tape was ¼”. Your choice of poms might have a wider tape and so your distances might be slightly different. The important thing to remember is that the inside edge, where the poms are attached, should be ½” from the raw edge of the fabric. You want the poms to look as though they are coming right out of the seam, with little to (ideally) none of the tape showing.
3. Pin one of the triangular A, pieces right sides together, to the B piece, lining up the angled raw edges and sandwiching the poms in between the layers.
4. Sew together along this angled side using a ½” seam allowance. Be careful not to sew through any of the poms.
5. Lightly press the seam allowance towards the B piece. The poms should be set into the seam and laying on top of the A piece. Edgestitch along the seam on the B piece side.
   
6. Repeat steps 1-5 to attach another triangular A piece to the bottom of the D piece.
7. With right sides together, pin the top edge of the D piece to the bottom edge of the B piece.
8. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
9. Fine one of the 15″ Double Pressed Bands. Center the band over the B piece/D piece seam and pin in place.
10. Edgestitch along both sides of the band. Panel 1 is now complete.
    

Panel 2

1. With right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the E piece to the top edge of F piece.
2. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
3. With right sides together, pin the bottom edge of now sewn E/F piece to the top edge of G piece.
4. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
5. Find two of the 15″ Double Pressed Bands. Center one over the E/F seam and center the other over the F/G seam. Pin both bands in place.
6. As you did above, edgestitch along both sides of both bands. Panel 2 is now complete.

Panel 3

1. With right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the H piece to the top edge of the I piece.
2. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
3. Find one of the 15″ Double Pressed Bands. Center it over the H/I seam. Pin in place.
4. Edgestitch along both sides of the band.
5. Find the two 15″ Single Pressed Bands.
6. Place one Single Pressed Band along the top of the H piece, aligning the raw edges of the band and the fabric piece.
7. Edgestitch along the bottom, folded edge. Then, run a line of stay stitching close to the raw edges to hold them in place.
8. Repeat to attach the remaining Single Pressed Band to the bottom of the I piece. Panel 3 is now complete.

   

Panel 4

1. As you did for Panel 1, pin one of the 23″ pom pom strips along the angled edge of the J piece, so the INSIDE edge of the pom pom tape is ½” from the raw edge of the fabric.
2. Using your zipper foot, stitch the pom strip in place. Trim away any excess length of pom pom tape at both ends.
3. Pin one of the triangular A pieces, right sides together, to the J piece, lining up the angled raw edges and sandwiching the poms in between the layers.
4. Sew together along this angled side using a ½” seam allowance. Be careful not to sew through any of the poms.
5. Lightly press the seam allowance towards the J piece. The poms should be set into the seam and laying on top of the A piece. Edgestitch along the seam on the J piece side.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 to attach another triangular A piece to the L piece.
7. With right sides together, pin the top edge of the K piece to the bottom edge of the A/J piece.
8. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
9. With right sides together, pin the top edge of the A/L piece to the bottom edge of the just-assembled A/J/K piece.
10. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
11. Fine two 15″ Double Pressed Bands.
12. Pin one of the bands in place so the top folded edge is just covering the A/J-K seam. This top folded edge should only be about 1/8″ over the seam – not centered over it as we’ve done with the previous seams. This is so the point of the triangle is not cut off when you sew the top to the back. Pin the band in place.
13. Edgestitch along both sides of the band.
14. Repeat to pin the other band in place. As above (but a mirror image), the bottom edge of the band should be just about 1/8″ over the K-A/L seam.
15. Edgestitch along both sides of the band. Panel 4 is now complete.

Assemble the four front panels

It may help you to refer to the diagram above to insure you are assembling the panels correctly.

1. With right sides together, pin Panel 1 to Panel 2. Make sure you are pinning together the INSIDE edges. The velvet triangles should be to the outside raw edge.
2. Stitch together, using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.
3. With right sides together, pin the completed Panel 1/Panel 2 unit to Panel 3.
4. Stitch together, using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.
5. With right sides together, pin the completed Panel 1/Panel 2/Panel 3 unit to Panel 4. Again, make sure your are pinning together the INSIDE edges so the velvet triangles are to the outside raw edge.
6. Stitch together, using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open. The throw top is now complete.
7. Find the remaining 160″ length of pom pom tape. Starting in the middle of the bottom side, pin the pom pom tape along all four edges of the completed throw front. The poms should be facing in and the inside edge of the pom tape (where the pom poms are connected) should be ½” from the raw edge of the fabric. Overlap the pom tape when you get back to your starting point and trim away any excess poms so your line of poms is even.
8. Using a zipper foot, machine baste the pom pom tape in place around all four sides.
   

The back of the throw

1. With right sides together, pin the bottom edge of Back K piece to the top edge of Back L piece.
2. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
3. Find the final 15″ Double Pressed Band. Center it over the K/L seam. Pin in place.
4. Edgestitch along both sides of the band.
5. With right sides together, pin the left side of the just-assembled K/L panel to the right side of the large Back D piece.
6. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam open.
7. Find the 57″ band strip. Place the band over the K/L-D seam. Cheat the band to the left until your K/L panel is as close to 14½” as possible. Pin in place.
8. Edgestitch along both sides of the band. The back of the throw is now complete.

Batting

1. Find the 57″ x 57″ batting piece. Place this batting panel on the WRONG side of the newly-completed throw back.
2. Make sure the two layers are super flat and the raw edges are flush. Trim the batting to match the throw if need be. Pin the two layers together.
3. Machine baste around all four sides approximately ¼” from the raw edges.
4. You can now treat these two layers as one.
   NOTE: If you are a real pro when it comes to working with large layers and quilting, you can skip this step.

Final seams and quilting

1. Pin the finished front and finished back right sides together around all four sides. Make sure your layers are flat and your edges flush.
2. Stitch together, using a ½” seam allowance, leaving a 7- 8″ opening at the middle of the bottom edge.
3. Trim the seam allowance back about ¼” all around, except at the opening; leave the full seam allowance along the opening. Clip all the corners at a diagonal.
4. Turn the throw right side out through the bottom opening. Push out the corners with a blunt end tool, like a large knitting needle or a chopstick.
5. Press well, folding in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Pin along this opening.
6. Edgestitch along all four sides of the throw. This helps stabilize the layers and closes the opening.
7. Turn the throw so the front is face up. Lay it out flat on your work surface (or on the floor – wherever you have room). Make sure it is nice and flat.
8. Pin along both sides of each of the three inside vertical seams (the three inside panel seams). Place the pins so they are parallel to the seam and their heads are facing down.
9. Topstitch exactly along each of the three vertical seams. For each line, start at the top edge of the throw and stitch down to the bottom edge, removing the pins as you go.
   
10. If you have either a Ditch Quilting foot or a Walking foot, this is a great time to pull one out. The Ditch Quilting foot will keep your new seam perfectly aligned. The Walking foot will be additional help to keep the layers from shifting.
    NOTE: If you are new to quilting, these three lines of stitching are the ‘quilting stitches’ that hold the three layers together: top, batting and back. The reason you pin along the seams prior to sewing them is so the back side of the throw does not shift while sewing. Sometimes, quilters will also use large safety pins placed at close intervals to hold their layers in place.

Project Concept: Alicia Thommas

Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Gregory Dickson