Make the most of your outdoor living opportunities with a super tote designed for the ultimate summer excursion: the picnic! You simply cannot let the season slip away without at least one day of dining al fresco! We’ve had several requests for picnic carryalls and think this is one everyone will love. It’s lightly insulated with thermal batting to help keep your food warm or cold. There are plenty of interior pockets, in a variety of sizes, all in easy-care PUL. And the inset zipper across the top provides a secure closure so even if the tote tips, your picnic doesn’t spill.

This picnic tote features a bold exterior print in indoor/outdoor fabric for wipe-clean care. Outdoor fabrics traditionally have fun graphics in cool colors that make them pretty enough to use every day.

This tote zips closed. But if regular zippers make you shiver, and the thought of an inset zipper makes you want to run screaming from your sewing machine, we are here to calm your fears. Our step-by-step instructions show you how an inset zipper just may be easier than you ever thought. If the notes below still have you scratching your head, we also have a full tutorial just about inset zippers.

That’s always our goal here at S4H: demystifying and deconstructing to prove you can do it!

Our bag finishes at approximately 15″ high x 18″ wide at the base and 23″ wide at the top x 5″ in depth with 11″ handle loops.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• Zipper foot; optional but helpful for the inset zipper
• Even Feed or Walking foot; optional but helpful with the thick layers, or engage your machine’s built-in fabric feeding system, such as the AcuFeed™ Flex layered fabric feeding system use on many of our Janome studio machines
• Quarter Inch Seam foot; optional

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1 yard of 54″+ wide medium-weight indoor/outdoor fabric or similar for the tote exterior
• 1¼ yards 60″+ of PUL (polyurethane laminate) for the tote lining
• ¾ yard of 45″+ thermal batting; we used Insul-Bright Mylar/Poly Batting
• 1¾ yards of 20″+ wide medium-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor-Bond
• 4 yards of 1½” heavy cotton webbing; we used 1½” cotton webbing in black
• 1½ yards of ⅝” fold over elastic; we used Dritz Solid Fold Over Elastic in Black
• ONE 24″ sport zipper; we used a Coats Separating Sport Zipper in Black
• FOUR 1½” D-rings; we used Dritz 1½” D-rings in Charcoal 
• Scrap of fusible fleece for the zipper tabs – you only need two 1½” squares; we used a scrap of Pellon Thermolam, a one-sided fusible
• ⅓ yard of ⅛” satin ribbon for the zipper pull; we used black
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Iron and ironing board
• Straight pins

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the exterior, fussy cut the following:
   TWO 24″ wide x 18½” high rectangles for the main tote panels
   TWO 9″ wide x 11″ high rectangles for the exterior pockets
   NOTE: We fussy cut our pocket panels to match the center motif of our fabric. This is optional.
   TWO 24″ x 2 strips for the top facing
   FOUR 24″ x 1½” strips for the inset zipper
   TWO 4″ x 2½” rectangles for the zipper tabs
2. From the fabric for the lining, cut the following:
   TWO 24″ wide x 17½” high rectangles for the lining panels
   TWO 36″ wide x 9½” high rectangles for the lining pockets
3. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 24″ x 18½” rectangles
   TWO 9″ x 11 rectangles
4. From the thermal batting, cut TWO 24″ x 17½” rectangles.
5. From the fusible fleece, cut TWO 1½” x 1½” squares for the zipper tabs.
6. From the webbing, cut the following:
   FOUR 18½” lengths for the body straps
   TWO 30″ lengths for the handles
7. Cut the fold over elastic into TWO 24″ lengths.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fuse exterior panels

1. Find the two 24″ x 18½” exterior fabric panels and the two 24″ x 18½” interfacing rectangles.
2. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse an interfacing panel to the wrong side of each fabric panel.
   NOTE: The interfacing may not completely adhere to the indoor/outdoor fabric since your iron’s temperature setting should be lowered for this type of fabric. That’s okay, just press it enough to get it to stay in place. It will be secured within the seams.
   

Create and attach the exterior pockets

1. Find the two 9″ x 11″ pocket panels and the 9″ x 11″ interfacing panels.
2. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse an interfacing panel to the wrong side of each fabric panel.
3. Only the top and bottom edges will be finished; the sides will be hidden under the straps. Along the bottom edge of each pocket panel, fold up the raw edge ½” and pin in place.
   
4. Along the top edge of each pocket panel, fold back the raw edge ½” and lightly press. Fold an additional 1″ and pin in place, creating a full hem.
   
5. Topstitch the top hem in place, running the seam close to the inside folded edge.
   
6. Find the two interfaced exterior panels. Place them right side up and flat on your work surface. Place a pocket right side up on each exterior panel. The pocket should be positioned 3½” up from the bottom raw edge of the exterior panel and centered side to side, which is 7½” in from each side. Pin each pocket in place.
   
7. Edgestitch along just the bottom folded edge of each pocket.
   
8. Find the four 18½” lengths of webbing.
9. Position one length over each raw side edge of each pocket. The webbing should be centered over the pocket’s raw edge so the outer edge of the webbing is 6½” from the raw side edge of the exterior panel. The ends of the webbing lengths should be flush with the top and bottom raw edges of the exterior panel.
   
10. Pin the four lengths of webbing in place, leaving the top 2-3″ loose.
11. Find the four D-rings.
12. At the top of each length of webbing, slip a D-ring into place.
    
13. Fold the raw end of the webbing down over the D-ring, hiding the raw end behind the webbing itself. There should be 2″ from the top raw edge of the fabric panel to the top folded edge of the webbing.
    
14. From the base of the D-ring (which is also the top fold of the webbing), measure down 1″ and place a pin horizontally. This marks the top ending point of your webbing stitch line.
15. Repeat to place a D-ring at the top of each of the four lengths of webbing.
16. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the webbing in the top and bobbin.
17. Lengthen your stitch.
18. Topstitch each webbing strap in place, staying just ⅛” from the edge. Start at the bottom, stitch up one side.
    
19. Stop at the 1″ mark, pivot, stitch across – stopping ⅛” from the opposite edge. We stitched back and forth on this horizontal line several times as it will be a key stress point for the strap. Pivot, then stitch down the opposite edge to complete.
    

Create the inset zipper unit

1. Find the zipper and the four 24″ x 1½” zipper trim strips.
2. On each zipper trim strip, fold back each end ½” and press in place.
3. Place one trim strip right side up on your work surface. Place the zipper on this strip, also right side up. The trim strip should be centered on the zipper. The raw edge of the strip should be flush with the edge of the top zipper tape.
4. Find a second trim strip. Place this trim strip right side down on the zipper. You have sandwiched the zipper between the two strips. The two trim strips are right sides together and their folded ends are flush with one another. Pin in place through all the layers along just the top edge.
   
5. Stitch through all the layers along the one side. As with most zipper insertions we do here at S4H, start with the zipper about half way open. Stitch to the middle, where you’re approaching the zipper pull. Stop with your needle in the down position. Lift up your presser foot. Twist your fabric around slightly in order to be able to carefully close the zipper so the pull is out of the way. Re-position your fabric and finish sewing to the end.
   
   NOTE: We used our regular presser foot and shifted our needle position to the left to get close to the zipper teeth. You could also use a Zipper foot, but with the “chunkier” sport-type zipper, we wanted to be a bit farther away from the teeth (about ¼” from the teeth) than with a more standard zipper, and we found using the edge of our regular presser foot was a good guide to run along the edge of the zipper teeth. 
6. Fold the two trim pieces away from the zipper teeth so these two pieces are now wrong sides together. The remaining long raw edges of the strips should be flush as should the folded-in ends. Press flat. We also lightly pinned the strips together; it helps keep everything in place when working with the heavier indoor/outdoor fabric.
7. Repeat to attach the remaining two zipper trim strips to the opposite side of the zipper, taking care to make sure the folded ends of this second set of trim strips are exactly aligned with the first set.
   
8. Stitch this second side of the zipper unit in place.
   
9. Press both sets of trim pieces away from the zipper and lightly pin to hold in place.
   NOTE: Keep your iron away from the zipper teeth. It is plastic and can melt. 
   
10. Along both sides, edgestitch across the folded ends, then pivot and edgestitch along the zipper seam. You are stitching through all the layers.
             
11. Find the two 4″ x 2½” zipper tabs, and the 1½” x 1½” fusible fleece squares.
12. Place a fleece rectangle on the wrong side of each zipper tab. It should be ½” from one short end and centered side to side. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the squares in place.
    
13. Place the right side of one tab against the wrong side of the stop end of the zipper. The tab should be centered within the zipper strip and the end of the tab should be flush with the top of the zipper stop. Pin in place.
14. This is the positioning as viewed from the back (the wrong side) of the zipper unit.
    
15. This is the positioning as viewed from the front (the right side) of the zipper unit.
    
16. With the zipper facing up (so the tab is underneath), sew the tab to the end of the zipper. Run the seam right below the folded and edgestitched ends of the side zipper strips. You are just stitching across the width of the zipper itself.
    
17. Fold up the tab, then fold in the sides of the tab so they are aligned with the width of the zipper. Then fold down the top raw edge to create a final finished edge and fold the tab in half. The folded-down edge of the tab should sit just below the folded and edgestitched ends of the zipper unit. Adjust the fold of the tab as necessary to create this placement. The folded side edges of the tab should be flush. Pin in place.
    
18. Edgestitch around all four sides of the tab to secure.
    
19. Repeat to attach the remaining tab to the opposite end of the zipper, trimming away the excess zipper tape ends as necessary.
    NOTE: As mentioned above, we do have a full tutorial on this technique: How to Create an Inset Zipper. 

Assemble the exterior front and back and box the bottom corners

1. With right sides together, pin together the front and back exterior panels, carefully matching the webbing ends along the bottom.
   
2. Stitch both sides and across the bottom, using ½” seam allowance. Remember to pivot at the corners.
3. With the bag still wrong side out, the next step is to box the bottom corners. Our bag is designed to have 5″ sides and base. To create this width, we figured our corners at 2½”
   
4. If you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions. We recommend a double line of stitching to reinforce the corners of the tote.
   
5. Fold back the upper raw edge of the exterior bag ½” and press. Lightly pin to hold in place.
6. Set the exterior bag aside.

Create the lining and its pocket panel

1. Find the two 24″ x 17½” PUL lining panels and the two 24″ x 17½” thermal batting panels. Place a PUL panel on top of each batting panel. Lightly pin together the layers. These two layers will be quilted together.
2. With your clear ruler and fabric pencil, create stitching lines across each panel. To do this, start at the right 17½” side, measure in 3″ and draw a vertical line from top to bottom.
3. Draw a second parallel vertical line 2½” to the left of the first line.
4. Repeat to draw an additional SIX parallel vertical lines at 2½” intervals. The final line should be 3″ from the opposite raw side edge. There should be EIGHT drawn lines total on EACH panel.
   
5. Place horizontal pins along each drawn line to hold the layers securely.
6. Lengthen your stitch.
7. Stitch along each drawn line.
   NOTE: As mentioned above, we suggest using an Even Feed or Walking foot or engaging your machine’s built-in fabric feeding system. 
   
8. Set these quilted panels aside.
9. Find the two 36″ x 9½” PUL pocket panels. Lay them flat on your work surface.
10. Find the two 24″ lengths of fold-over elastic.
11. Find the center of each elastic and the center of each PUL panel. Align these two points to match up an elastic to each panel.
    
12. Fold the elastic over the top raw edge of the PUL. Set your press foot down over the layers at one end. Stretch the elastic so it lays evenly across the top. Stitch the fold-over elastic in place, using a ¼” seam allowance, stretching as you stitch. This will gather up the top edge of the pocket panel slightly. Repeat with the second panel.
    
13. Along the bottom edge of each PUL pocket panel, fold back the raw edge ½” and pin in place. Machine baste the fold in place.
    
14. Run a gathering stitch across this entire bottom folded edge on each panel
    NOTE: If you are new to these techniques, check out our tutorials on machine basting and machine gathering.
    
15. Find two quilted lining panels. Place them right side up and flat on your work surface.
16. Place a pocket panel right side up on each base panel. The bottom edge of the pocket panel should sit 3½” up from the bottom raw edge of the quilted panel. Pull the pocket panel’s gathering stitch evenly until the pocket panel and the base panel align side to side. Pin each pocket panel in place through all the layers across the bottom. Then, make sure the raw side edges of the pocket panel and the quilted panel are flush and pin along each side.
    
17. Edgestitch along the entire bottom of the pocket panel to secure it to the base panel.
    
18. The quilting lines of the base panels will become the guides for the pocket panel’s dividing lines.
19. Follow the drawing below to create four dividing lines on each panel. The dividing lines should be identical on each panel. This way, when the panels are sewn together, the pocket sizes will be opposite one another, ie. larger pockets opposite smaller pockets. This will help keep the bag evenly balanced when loaded.
    
20. As above with the quilted panel, place horizontal pins along each drawn line to hold all the layers in place.
21. Using an Even Feed or Walking foot if possible or your built-in feeding system, and with a lengthened stitch, sew along each drawn line.
    NOTE: For a professional finish, we stitched up to the base of the fold over elastic with thread to match the PUL, then re-threaded with black to match the elastic and stitched that final small section.
    

Attach the zipper unit to the lining panels

1. Find the zipper unit. Place it right side up on the right side of one of the lining/pocket panels. The right side of the lining should be against the wrong side of the zipper.
   
2. The zipper unit should be centered side-to-side on the lining panel with one long raw edge of the zipper unit flush with the top raw edge of the panel.
   
3. Find one of the two 24″ x 2″ facing strips. Place it right side down over the zipper unit. The ends of the facing should be flush with the sides of the lining and one side should be flush with top raw edges of the lining and zipper unit. Pin in place through all the layers.
   
4. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across through all the layers.
5. Repeat to attach the remaining raw edge of the zipper unit to the remaining lining panel. Sandwiching the zipper unit as above with the remaining facing strip.
6. Place the two lining panels right sides together, sandwiching the zipper unit between the layers and matching the ends of the facing as well as the sides and bottom edges of the panels. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
7. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.
8. Following the same steps as above for the exterior tote, measure for and make 5″ boxed corners.
   
   NOTE: Again, If you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions.
9. Fold down the top raw edge of the lining facing ½” all around. Press in place.
10. Again because of the thickness of the indoor/outdoor fabric we machine basted this fold in place to hold it securely.
    
11. With the lining still wrong side out, find the exterior bag, which should be right side out.
12. Slip the lining inside the exterior bag so the two are now wrong sides together. Smooth the lining down into the exterior bag so the bottom boxed corners are aligned.
13. Carefully align the top folded edges of both the exterior and the lining. If they are not perfectly flush, re-fold as necessary and re-press. Pin the layers together around the entire top opening. The zipper is open.
    
14. If necessary, re-thread with thread to match the exterior fabric. Lengthen the stitch.
15. Topstitch around the entire top opening, using a ¼” seam allowance. As you go around, you’ll be going under the zipper end tabs. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot.
    
16. Remove the machine basting from the facing.

Add handle loops and zipper pull

1. Find the two 30″ handle loops.
2. On the bag front, slip each end of the handle loop through the top of a D-ring. Insert from front to back so the raw end will be hidden to the back of the webbing. Pull each end through about 1½” and pin to secure.
3. Double check that the webbing hasn’t twisted on itself. You want a smooth loop.
4. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the webbing in the top and bobbin.
5. Pull the webbing away from bag and zig zag across the back of the webbing to secure each raw end in place.
   
6. Repeat to attach the loop on the back bag panel.
7. Find the 12″ length of thin ribbon. Fold the ribbon in half and slip it through the hole in the zipper pull. Loop it back on itself – as if attaching a gift tag. Cut the fold so there are four thin tails.
   

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild