

What is soft, pliable, and waterproof; can withstand fairly high temperatures; and holds up to a lot of use? Like me, your first guess might have been those dang swimming pool noodles you always buy too many of and then never know what to do with once summer is over. But... the real answer is: PUL, polyurethane laminate if you wish to be formal. The broad category refers to any fabric with a polyurethane laminated to a base fabric. Most common is a polyester knit fabric laminated to a thin waterproof, non-breathable polyurethane backing. Originally developed for use in the medical industry, it's very durable and very popular right now for folks making diapers, diaper covers, changing pads, bibs, training pants, and outside the world of babies, it's often used to create reusable sandwich, snack and lunch bags. As with most man-made fabrics, there are some tips and techniques that make sewing with PUL easier.
We chose the thin, 1.33 mm PUL knit as a waterproof lining for our Baby Gifts: Pretty Bird Quick Trip Diaper Bag. It worked great. There are double laminates out there as well, which are usually the waterproof polyurethane sandwiched between two layers of polyester knit.
We've also used the popular cotton laminates, such as Heather Bailey's Nicey Jane cotton laminate, which we used for our Retro Fun: Toddler's Laminated Project Apron. Though different from PUL, because it's bonded to a natural cotton fabric (it is not waterproof - just water resistant), several of the pinning and sewing tips are applicable to this type of fabric as well.
Needles and pins
Unlike the forgiving fibers of natural cotton weaves, when you make a hole in PUL, it's there for good. Because of this, the fewer pins the better. The more holes you make, the less waterproof a project can become. Many people are against ever using pins on PUL, but I'm not that rigid. If your project is a simple one without a lot of complex interlocking seams, you should try to avoid pins. You can substitute paperclips, hair clips, fusible seam tape, or a glue stick (Pritt Stick is a good one for fabric and it washes out with the first laundering). For more complicated projects, sometimes you just gotta use pins. In that case, try to keep your pinning within the seam allowance. Also, this is a funny tip, but try to avoid mistakes. Because if you have to rip out a seam, the holes will remain.
The thickness of laminate you are using will determine the type of needle to use. A denim or jeans needle is a good choice for thicker laminates in a No. 14 to No. 16. For the thinner laminates, a ball point needle is a good choice in a No. 9 or No. 11. Always test first on a scrap.
Sewing
Feet
Laminate can be 'sticky' going through your sewing machine. That great laminated surface, which is what makes it waterproof or water resistant, tends to want to stick to your presser foot. There are several ways to combat this:
- Use a Teflon® or Ultraglide foot. These feet have a special coating on the bottom, which allows them to move smoothly over difficult fabrics like PUL and vinyl.
- Use a Walking Foot, which has feed dogs incorporated into the foot itself. These feed dogs work in conjunction with the machine's feed dogs to feed fabric layers evenly.
- When possible, sew with the laminate side down against the feed dogs and the fabric side against your presser foot.
- Use a baker's paper or wax paper over the top of the laminate. The presser foot moves across the paper easily, and these papers are translucent so you can still see where you're going. Simply tear it away from the finished seam when done. It's most efficient to work with strips of paper just in the area where you're stitching.
Thread
Use a high quality, 100% polyester thread rather than a cotton thread. A cotton thread can wick moisture to the outside.
Stitch selection
There are folks in both the zig zag camp and the straight stitch camp. I've found either stitch works fine. The key seems to be to lengthen your stitch. You might also want to loosen your tension slightly. Test your stitch on a scrap before you begin your project! This is always a good rule of thumb, but is especially important when working with difficult fabrics.
Laundering and other care issues
Because PUL fabric was originally developed to withstand the intense heat of sanitizing washers and dryers used in hospitals, it will certainly hold up in your home washer and dryer. In fact, washing and drying with HIGH heat can help to seal up needle holes and seams.
- Use mild detergent
- Do NOT use fabric softeners, chemical stain lifters or bleach
- Do NOT iron
- If you use PUL for a project that stays wet for extended periods (such as with diapers), you can add a ½ cup of baking soda to the wash cycle to prevent odor build up.
This may be a real strange question. I really don't know what PUL feels like but I was searching for waterproof fabric to make rain covers for my leather motorcycle saddle bags. Would these fabrics work? I see some has stretch. That would be awesome. Is it really completely waterproof?
@BKM - I"m afraid I can't guarantee this fabric is completely waterproof. It is stretchy though, which would make it a good choice for a bag cover, and eople use it all the take to make diaper covers - so they obviously rely on it being pretty dang reliable - but it really isn't designed for heavy outdoor use. As an alternative, you might check the options at The Rainshed (link below). They specialize in outdoor gear and so their "waterproof fabric" will likely be more heavy duty.
https://www.therainshed.com/shop/COATED-FABRICS.htm
Hi, I was wondering if PUL fabric can stand a molding machine like the ones we use to mold bra cups. Any idea?
@ Giovanna - sorry, that's not something we have experience with - unfortunately, no idea.
Just FYI... I found a great website for PUL by the yard. Solid colors are 7.90/yard and they have a huge variety of prints. Not just baby prints, either. I am making rain ponchos out of PUL for my grandsons for Christmas. The website is naturesfabrics.com
I bought some pul fabric and was wondering I can make pullover bibs with this fabric.
i have trouble when sewing two layers pul on the bottom sticky part towarde the feed dogs and polyester fleece on top. The problem is the thread from the bobbin is not catching at all or bunches up. As a result top thread rips. I switched to denim needle even though it's thin pul. It made it better for a little and then same problem again. I played around with tension A LOT,cleaned the ling switched needles Re threaded again everything - doesn't help for long. worked on the scrap fabric and then again not cathing the thread and bunching and ripping on my project.
LI was going t get a walking foot but I have a slant shank singer and I didnt find compatible one yet:(
anu suggestions on on thread not catching properly? Thanks!
@ AnastasiaDe - it's hard to tell long distance but it sounds like the PUL is just not feeding correctly across the plate. Since you don't have a walking foot, you can try slipping a piece of wax paper or parchment paper under the PUL. You just need a strip wide enough to cover the feed dogs. Stitch as normal. The paper should allow the feed dogs to move better. When done, the paper can be gently torn away.
Can I use 100% cotton fabric to bind a bib made with Babyville PUL?
@ Mimiofsi - There should be no problem with binding the PUL with cotton. However, if you want to make double-sure, you could direct your question right to the experts at Babyville: http://www.babyvilleboutique.com
Any tips on joining the PUL to plain knit? I plan to make a fitted sheet with a PUL deck and knit sides.
@ Susan F - I don't have anything in addition to what you see above. You may want to visit our friends at Babyville Boutique - they are the PUL experts as far as I'm concerned: http://www.babyvilleboutique.com
Thanks for the link and quick reply, Liz! Great site.
I'm a bit confused about PUL because I often see recommendations, like you posted here, that it can be dried with high heat to "seal" the needle holes and seams. But none of the diaper covers I've bought have ever required sealing, nor have the diaper manufacturers recommended it. Is it only home-sewn PUL that needs sealing? And if so, why? Thanks!
@ Anne S -- commerical items are always manufacturer differently than homemade items. We are not the be-all-end-all experts on PUL, but you know who is? The folks at Babyville Boutique. I would check out their resources and perhaps direct your question to them. Their products are some of our faves. http://www.babyvilleboutique.com
Hi Liz! Thank you for the quick reply! I did check with Babyville and they responded this way:
"If you are purchasing premade PUL diapers and any other items, I would hope they have been pre-sealed."
Anne
I bought the PUL fabric at www.sewingwithnancy.com. They sell kits to make diaper covers ect. They had the colored Velcro, colored snaps and the colored binding. At the time the kits were on sell but they also sell the PUL by the yard. There is a book that comes with kit. It contains the patterns and directions to make several styles. Also in the book it says that you can put the finished item in the dryer for 20 minutes and the holes from the sewing needles will close.
Just thought someone else might find this useful if all other needles aren't working for you.
I just bought laminated diaper fabric at Joannes. I am having a TERRIBLE time stitching. I am only getting a few threads to catch. The needle pierces the 2 layers but the tread does not catch. What type needle and thread are you using and what is your tension and stitch lenght?
@ Kristine - above we mention the following: "The thickness of laminate you are using will determine the type of needle to use. A denim or jeans needle is a good choice for thicker laminates in a No. 14 to No. 16. For the thinner laminates, a ball point needle is a good choice in a No. 9 or No. 11. Always test first on a scrap." You also need a Teflon® type presser foot or a strip of wax or parchment paper in between. If your presser foot isn't moving smoothly it can cause thread problems.
http://www.fabric.com/SearchResults2.aspx?Source=Header&SearchText=PUL&C...
I have been wanting to make some diapers out of our old tshirts (for decor purposes.. we have some neat old shirts we've collected) but obviously it would have to either be made into Laminate (expensive process) or require a cover.. Can I put a layer of Tshirt/Jersey outside a layer of PUL? Does it change any of the waterproofing/breathability options? I haven't decided on lining yet but I'd like to have the whole thing (AIO/AI2/Pockets whatever) made from almost all reused materials with the exception of a layer of PUL for waterproofing.. Thoughts?
You can put a layer of t-shirt outside of the PUL, but unless it is a polyester t-shirt, I wouldn't recommend it. For the simple reason that once the diaper inside is wet, the moisture will wick through the sides a bit. I won't be soaking wet, but a bit damp, pee damp, which I personally think smells horrid. What you can do if the t-shirt is cotton, is to cut part of the t-shirt design you like out of the t-shirt, and applique it to the outer PUL cover. Then, as you assemble your diaper, you add a second layer of PULL across the width where you put the applique. It will prevent any possible wicking. I don't do it throughout the diaper, just the butt area where I usually add my appliques. Here are some photos that might help a bit: http://www.theprofessionalbaby.com/?p=387 You can ignore the part about the fleece edges if you don't plan on doing that. Hope this helps!
Hi Phyllis, I have not made diapers using PUL however, I have used it for training pants and I did use cute tshirt type fabric as my outer layer and then the PUL next to that and then flannel as the layer closest to the skin. I would think you could do the same for diapers except of course you would be using thicker soaker materials or more of it than I did for the trainers which my little grand daughter just adores. Hope you had great luck with your diapers.
http://www.fabric.com/SearchResults2.aspx?Source=Header&SearchText=PUL&C...
http://www.joann.com/joann/search/searchall.jsp?qsearch=babyville&keywor...
ALSO - I went to JoAnn's after confirming they had PUL and they did not. They said OIL CLOTH canvas was the same and I did buy some of that. It is heavier than the PUL I found at Hancock fabrics. But my best selection and price was found through www.wahmsupply.com
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