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Kissing Booth Gift Basket with Angled Handles

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A basket of goodies is a wonderful Valentine's Day gift idea. And if the basket is as pretty as ours, you're giving a gift within a gift. Once the goodies are gone, the basket remains - ready to hold new items in the kitchen, bedroom or bath. We chose the Dozen Roses motif again (as we did for yesterday's apron) but went with the Candy Pink colorway, pairing it with the etched solid Grunge in Candy Pink for the lining and in Chocolate for the unique "V-point" handles. All these delicious fabrics are from the new Kissing Booth collection from BasicGrey for Moda Fabrics.

Kissing Booth is available now at in-store and online retailers. We found a good selection at these Sew4Home Marketplace Vendors: Fat Quarter Shop, Fabric.com, and The Ribbon Retreat.

Our thanks to Moda Fabrics for sponsoring our wonderful Winter series: over three weeks of projects and how-to tutorials. Stay tuned for a Great Giveaway this Friday, featuring pre-cuts from some of the collections you've seen.

Our basket finishes at approximately 8" wide x 7½" high x 6" deep (ie. 6" sides).

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

Getting Started

  1. From the fabric for the basket's exterior (Dozens Roses in Candy Pink in our sample), cut TWO 14" wide x 10½" high rectangles.
    NOTE: You could also use a fat quarter for the basket exterior.
  2. From the fabric for the basket's lining and top binding (Grunge in Candy Pink in our sample), cut the following: 
    TWO 14" wide x 10½" high rectangles 
    ONE 3" x 27" strip for the binding
  3. From the fabric for the basket's handles (Grunge in Chocolate in our sample), cut TWO 3" x 28" strips.
  4. From medium-weight fusible interfacing, cut TWO 3" x 28" strips.
  5. From the heavyweight fusible interfacing, cut TWO 13" x 9½" rectangles.
    NOTE: If you choose to use fusible craft fleece or batting rather than heavyweight interfacing, cut it 14" x 10½" - the same as the fabric cuts. We cut the heavy interfacing smaller in order to keep it out of the seam. It is too bulky to stitch into the seam, but a softer substrate will be easier to handle within the seam allowance. Although, you might still want to consider grading the seam allowance to allow everything to lay as flat as possible. 

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board


  1. Find the 3" x 28" fabric strips and the two 3" x 28" interfacing strips.
  2. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing strips to the wrong side of the fabric strips.
  3. Fold each strip right sides together and pin along the 28" raw edges. 
  4. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along the 28" edge. Leave both ends open. 
  5. Turn right side out. Roll the seam slightly to the back, not all the way to the center back, just slightly away from the edge. Press flat.
  6. Pin the handle strips right sides together at both ends, creating one big loop. Set aside. 

Create the basket exterior 

  1. Find the two 14" x 10½" exterior pieces and the two 13" x 9½" heavyweight interfacing pieces.
  2. Center the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric so there is ½" of fabric showing beyond all edges of the interfacing.
  3. Following manufacturer's instructions, and using a pressing cloth, fuse the interfacing to the fabric. 
  4. Repeat with the remaining pieces of fabric and interfacing.
  5. Place the two interfaced panels right sides together and pin along both sides. Leave the bottom edges unpinned.
  6. Using a see-through ruler and a fabric pen or pencil, measure and mark a 2½" x 2½" square in each bottom corner. 
  7. From the side 2½" mark, measure up the side l½" and make a mark. 
  8. From this new 1½" mark, measure an additional 1½" up and make another mark. 
  9. Repeat on the opposite side.
  10. This 1½" space will be left open in each side seam for the handles.
  11. Using a ½" seam allowance stitch each side seam, starting from the top and ending at the first handle opening mark. Lock your seam.
    NOTE: You'll see in the photo below, we actually wrote "leave open" on the interfacing to warn ourselves. You'll also notice we are using our Janome Walking foot.
  12. Move to the second handle opening mark and stitch the 1½" distance from this mark to the top of the corner square. Lock your seam and repeat on the opposite side.

Attach handles to exterior

  1. Find the handle loop.
  2. Insert the raw ends through one side opening at an angle.
  3. Push the ends through so they extend just beyond the edges of the seam allowance on the inside.
  4. Repeat to insert the opposite raw ends of the loop into the opposite side opening. Be very careful that there are no twists in your handles.
  5. Securely pin both ends in place.
  6. Close up each opening, using a ½" seam allowance and matching the previously sewn seams.
  7. Turn the basket exterior right side out and pull open the handles at each seam to form a "V". Pin in place.
  8. Continue pinning the handles to the exterior, following the angle as it splits out from the seam. Stop pinning 1½" from the top raw edge. This is where the seam that attaches the handle to the exterior will stop and where you will make the horizontal seam across the handle, securing it in place. 
  9. As a second check, at this point, the inside edge of the handle is approximately 2½" from the side seam.
    NOTE: If desired, re-thread your machine with contrasting thread in the top and bobbin. We used a light pink. However, this topstitching is tricky, and you may struggle a bit to keep your seam perfectly straight. If you are concerned about your abilities, stay with a thread color that matches your handle fabric and and slight seam "wobbles" will be less noticeable. 
  10. Switch to your Quarter Inch Seam foot and topstitch along both sides the "free" edges of the handles - the part of the handles that will not be sewn to the exterior. 

    NOTE: The next steps are a bit challenging because you will be maneuvering the exterior basket "tube" (remember the bottom is still open but both side seams are sewn) under your needle while topstitching. Go slowly and move the basket around to get in the corners of the “V”. We tried the stitching with our Walking foot, but found our Quarter Inch Seam foot made it easier to sew a straight line. It's okay to fold up the bottom of the basket to move around if you need to; it will smooth back out.
  11. Topstitch from the outer point of the "V" up to the marking pin (1½" from the top), pivot and stitch across the handle, then pivot again and topstitch down to the inner point of the "V". 
  12. Pivot at this inner point and stitch back up to the opposite marking, stitch across, pivot once more and stitch down, ending where you began at the outer point of the "V". Repeat on the opposite side. 
  13. With both handles attached, turn the basket exterior wrong side out. 
  14. Cut out both the bottom 2½" corners.
  15. Pin the remaining bottom edges in place. Stitch across the bottom using a ½" seam allowance.
  16. Box each bottom corner. We triple stitched our seam for security.
  17. Turn right out and push out the corners into position.

    NOTE: If you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions.


  1. Find the two 14" x 10½" lining rectangles.
  2. Place the two lining pieces right sides together, aligning all raw edges. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.
  4. With the lining still wrong side out, the next step is to box the bottom corners of the bag. As above, we measured and cut 2½" squares to yield a 5" final corner. 
  5. Pinch and pull apart the corners and stitch across (we double stitched).
  6. As we mentioned above, if you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions
  7. Leave the lining wrong side out and set aside.

Top binding and final assembly

  1. Find the 3" x 27" binding strip.
  2. Pin the 3" ends right sides together.
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the ends to create a loop. Press the seam open.
  4. Fold the loop in half, wrong sides together, so it is now a 1½" x 26" loop.
  5. Find the basket lining. It should be wrong side out. Find the exterior basket. It should be right side out. 
  6. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two are now wrong sides together. Align the bottom boxed corners and the top raw edges.
  7. Slip the binding loop over the exterior of the basket. Align the raw edges of the binding loop with the top raw edges of the basket. Pin in place all around.
  8. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch all around the top through all the layers. 
  9. Press the seam allowance up towards the binding. 
  10. Fold the binding over to the inside of the basket, incasing the seam allowance. Pin in place.
  11. Hand stitch the binding in place.
  12. Tie a pretty bow on to one side of the front handle.


Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Debbie Guild



Comments (12)

Amanda said:
Amanda 's picture

Great bag! I've made this two times already and plan to make it three more times as Easter bags for my two kids and three nieces.  I'm having trouble getting the angles right for the handles. I think they'remuch more angled than yours as they do not sit as nicely at the top. My lining seemsbigger and I can't get it to match exactly at the raw edges but can fudge it. 

I'm happy with the job I've done even though they're not perfect. Thanks for making these tutorials free and easy. Will make more from your site. 

carrey said:
carrey's picture

lovely bag. could you please tell me the finished dimensions for this bag. thank you.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ carrey -- the dimensions are hiding up above in the introduction. Our basket finishes at approximately 8" wide x 7½" high x 6" deep (ie. 6" sides).

Pretties2 said:
Pretties2's picture

I think the instructions at 1-4 in final assembly are incorrect. I believe there is only one strip, as indicated in the cutting instructions. I made the binding with the one strip and it fit perfectly.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Pretties2 - You're right! Want to know a little secret? Every once in awhile, in order to try to save a wee bit of time, I copy and paste instructions from a similar previous project and use them as the base for the new project. I obviously forgot to edit from two strips to one. I've fixed above. Thank you for alerting us... and thank you for doing it so nicely. Often, people are rather scathing when they find a problem amongst the 100s of tutorials we have. We certainly do the very best we can, and really have a very good track record, again considering the thousands of steps contained within those 100s of articles. We appreciate it when visitors can alert us to a fix... and we appreciate it even more when it is done so nicely - as you did. Glad your project came out well!

Inma Ciurana said:
Inma Ciurana's picture

Dear Liz,

I want to say you that all the projects you teach us are fantastic but I would like to ask you if there is any possibility to get them translated to spanish, since I try to understand all the explanations but sometimes I have problems to know exactly what you want to say.

It would be a pretty idea and also you would be vissited by a lot of people of spanish language.

Thanks for your comments and all your projects.


Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Inma Cirana - We wish we could do that, but simply don't have the means to do that now. However, it is possible to easily translate a web page yourself using (among others) Google Translate or Yahoo! Babel Fish. You can translate a block of text or a entire web page. There is a long list of languages to pick from, although you won't find them all. Usually, the translation is good enough that you could complete a project without difficulty.

Because Sew4Home is copyrighted, users are free to translate the page for their own use, but may not republish content. It's fine to use a Sew4Home photo on your blog and link to back to the Sew4Home site for instructions, or to provide a link to the translated page.

Momo said:
Momo's picture

A bag, a box, a purse, a basket - if it will hold something, let me carry something, then it's a project made for me!  This is just darling!

Barb Schneider said:
Barb Schneider's picture

This is so gift worthy!  Just the right thing for some special birthday gifts I need to make this year.  Thank you for yet another great idea!


LauraleeSaad said:
LauraleeSaad's picture

How Lovely!  I would love to be on the receiving end of that basket, but, alas, I will probably be the one giving it.  (The joys of being the only sewist I know!)  :)

LauraleeSaad said:
LauraleeSaad's picture

How Lovely!  I would love to be on the receiving end of that basket, but, alas, I will probably be the one giving it.  (The joys of being the only sewist I know!)  :)

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