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Successful Sewing With Laminated Cottons, Oilcloth, and other Sticky Stuff

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For many of you out there, childhood memories of "shiny-like" fabrics around the home probably revolve around upholstered kitchen chairs (that made you sweat if you sat too long), tablecloths (often with a blurry gingham pattern printed on them), appliance covers (that one with the giant, scary chicken on it that covered the toaster), etc. They were usually horrible colors and/or patterns, and certainly lackluster in design. However, they were durable and easy to clean (great when kids were involved!). Today, you can find designs in a laminated substrate that are a far cry from those you may remember. They're pretty and pliable and great for all kinds of projects.

Laminated cottons are the softest and most pliable. This is because the process to make them is different. They start out as basic woven 100% cottons that are coated with a Phthalate-free laminate (that's the shiny-like stuff) on the right side. For awhile, there was a real push from many fabric manufacturers to add this substrate to their standard design collections. This has dwindled a bit in recent years, but you can still find designer laminated cottons from several houses, such as Robert Kaufman's popular Urban Zoologie.

Oilcloth was originally made by treating canvas fabric with multiple coats of linseed oil. Today, oilcloth is a printed vinyl bonded to a cotton mesh base. It is fairly thick and the back is a bit rough – almost like a canvas. Most styles are 47″ wide. It's colors and patterns are bright and fun – many with a retro feel. 

By definition, the word lamination means an added layer that is fused with another layer. Versions of laminated-type fabrics abound; the difference between them lies in how they are manufactured. There are the laminated cottons (which we're featuring here), PUL (Polyurethane Laminate), oilcloth (similar to laminated cotton in appearance, but much stiffer to work with), chalk cloth (that you can write on like a chalkboard; we made some party placemats with this one), basic vinyl (the flannel-backed kind), and clear laminate you can use to make your own laminated fabric. Of course, there are also generic industrial-strength vinyl fabrics too, but we're not going there.

Certain fabrics are deemed "challenging" because of their texture, finish and/or drape (called "hand" in the industry), as well as because of all the things you have to do to sew with them successfully. Laminated cottons, as well as the other laminates we mentioned above, fall into the "challenging" category and have a distinct list of do's and don'ts. Since we've been making a few projects for our tutorials from laminated cottons, we've itemized everything we've learned (along with some things we've heard from others) in the list below. You will soon see this category of fabric is not too "challenging" at all, but is really quite easy to work with and looks great too!

In addition to the information we've gathered below, there are many books and blogs dedicated to using laminated cottons (and the other laminates as well). The ideas are absolutely endless! Get the scoop, see our stylish project ideas, and try sewing something for yourself.

Choosing the right project

Anything you make with laminated cotton should be a fairly simple design. By simple, we mean a project without a lot of detail in the construction. Traditionally, you want to steer clear of small details, like lots to tiny pieces to assemble.

However, this does not mean you're limited in the items you can make. Whatever you make with laminated cotton can have great form and function. For instance, our Toddler's Laminated Project Apron.

Working with patterns

Laminated cottons can range from 45" to 58" wide. Pay attention to the yardage required for a selected project to match it with the width of your selected laminated cotton.

When cutting out your pattern, you can use tape or pattern weights to hold the pattern pieces in place.

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You can use pins, but you must make certain you pin within the seam allowance. Once you make a hole in laminate, it stays there.

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Setting up your sewing machine

NOTE: In this section, we're referring to laminated cottons. With some of the other kinds of laminated fabrics, such as the thicker oilcloth, you may need a longer stitch and/or a larger needle. The other points still apply. Remember to always test your settings on a scrap of the actual laminate you plan to use before getting started on your actual project.

Which stitch to use?

As we mentioned above, it's best to use laminates with simple shapes, so a straight stitch is best for piecing. You want the stitch length to be longer than when sewing with regular fabric. We recommend a stitch length of 3.0 - 3.5mm.

Which foot is best for the job?

Each sewing machine manufacturer offers specialty feet for their sewing machines. These are feet designed for a specific purpose so the machine can easily sew the fabric type or sewing task required. Laminates benefit from these handy specialty feet!

NOTE: We're super lucky to have Janome as one of our sponsors so we are featuring their specialty feet options. Your sewing machine manufacturer will likely have similar feet. Check with your local dealer.

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The Janome Ultraglide foot (rightmost foot in the photo above) is made of a special resin so it glides across fabrics that would otherwise be "sticky." Janome also offers the ultimate pair for this kind of sewing: an Ultraglide Needle Plate and Foot Set. Check out the link to see which machines can switch out to a different needle plate. 

The Janome Roller foot (leftmost foot in the photo above), as we're sure you can guess, has a roller on it that is textured to hold onto an otherwise slippery surface as it helps to guide the fabric under the needle.

The Janome Even Feed (or Walking) foot (center foot in the photo above) is the one we turn to quite often for "challenging" fabrics. This foot has its own set of feed dogs so the fabric is being fed under the needle from the top (with the foot's feed dogs) and the bottom (with the machine's feed dogs) simultaneously.

We understand budgets are tight these days, and some of these specialty feet are optional accessories. This means you have to buy them separately (most Janome machines come standard with at least the Even Feed foot). A very inexpensive option we've heard about from others is to aply painter's tape or masking tape to the bottom of your standard pressure foot. You will need an X-acto knife to cut out the small holes. We've never tried this, but we wanted to share the information with you as many people swear by it.

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Yet another alternative, and one we have used ourselves, is to use household wax paper, tissue paper or baker's parchment paper between the foot and the laminate. If you are sewing on the right side of the laminate, also known as the sticky side, place the paper between the fabric and your standard presser foot.

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Once you're done sewing, simply tear away the paper. If you have a double layer of laminate, so it's sticky on both sides, you can place another layer of tissue paper between the fabric and the needle plate.

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Other options for allowing the laminated substrate to move more smoothly across the needle plate is to cover the plate itself with painter's tape (similar to the tip above for covering the bottom of the presser foot) or to use Sewer's Aid silicone lubricant on the bottom of the presser foot and/ot on the needle plate. 

Do I need a special needle?

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Using the proper sewing machine needle in your machine is always important no matter what type of fabric you're sewing. For laminated cottons, you want to use a larger needle to penetrate this substrate's added thickness. We recommend a Universal needle in a size 12 or 14. These have sharp points that will easily penetrate the laminate coating. For thicker substrates, such as oilcloth, most people prefer a Denim needle in a size 14 or 16. These needles are sharper than the standard Universal needle. As always, test first to be sure.

What about thread?

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Use a polyester thread, such as Coats Dual Duty XP. Laminated fabric is often used for projects where moisture could be involved, such as in our insulated lunch bag project. The polyester thread, like the laminate coating, repels water, whereas a cotton thread can wick moisture to the outside.

Mistakes are harder to hide

By nature of being woven, regular fabric is normally a very forgiving medium when you make a mistake. However, when sewing with laminates, you have to take extra precautions. Once you sew a seam, if you need to remove the stitching, it will look like this:

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This is not meant to scare you, but is instead another reminder to sew slowly and carefully, so those nasty mistakes stay away.

Holding layers together

Holding together the layers of fabric you're about to sew is simple: use straight pins... right? Wrong! As we mentioned above, you can use straight pins but they will leave holes in the laminated cotton. This is okay if you're placing them within the seam allowance. However, it's best to avoid using them if you can.

So, what's the best thing to use to hold layers of laminated cotton together? The answer is: anything that won't leave a hole or a mark in the laminate. We've listed a number of techniques below. Try a few for yourself to find out what works best for your style of sewing.

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We like to use binding or hem clips (they look very similar to hair clips). They seem to have just the right amount of hold for our projects and don't leave a mark on the laminate. These are readily available at your local fabric or sewing supply retailer (you can use the hair clip variety as well). Since this article was originally written, we've also become fans of Clover Wonder Clips and Dritz® Getta Grip Clips.

In addition to these clips, there are a number of other options that you'll find in your desk drawer or laundry room.

Paper clips are great. We suggest the pretty plastic coated kind.

Binder clips are helpful when you need to hold quite a few layers together tightly. However, the downside to these is you can't leave them on too long or they'll leave a mark. Use them only if you're going to sew right away, then remove them immediately.

Clothespins are another alternative, but again, leave them on too long and they'll also leave a mark.

Besides holding layers together so you can sew them, there may be situations where you need to assemble layers prior to stitching. In these cases, you can use a temporary spray adhesive to keep the layers together until you sew them in place permanently.

Or, what about when you turn something right side out through an opening in a seam? You need to hold that opening closed in order to topstitch it in place. The spray adhesive solution could be too messy; you don't want to get it on the right side of your project. For this, try a temporary double-sided fabric tape.

Both fabric tape and the temporary spray are readily available at your local fabric shop or sewing retailer as well as from online sources.


A real area of debate is pressing! We've discussed this in our studio and determined that following the manufacturers' recommendations is best: they usually say to "finger press" – fold and apply pressure with just your fingers to set the fold.

Layers where seams intersect can be quite thick and finger pressing may seem to provide minimal results, but depending on the project, leaving the seams the way they are (ie. less than perfectly flat) is usually okay.

Laminated cotton can become wrinkled (very easily as a matter of fact). This is why when you buy it in the store, you'll always see it rolled on a tube, never folded around a bolt. However, the idea of not being able to press something that has wrinkles can be annoying. The manufacturers' most common suggestion is to lay the laminate flat, in a warm environment, so the wrinkles work themselves out (this has also be known to work for fussy toddlers). Laying it outside in the sunshine (on a clean surface) is a good option. 

So, that's the company line, but... we've learned you can press laminated substrates on a low setting and from the WRONG side only! Obviously, if your iron catches any little bit of that laminated coating, it's going to ruin your fabric and your iron. To be on the safe side, we strongly recommend you use a pressing cloth between your iron and the wrong side of the laminated cotton.

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NOTE: If you try a higher temperature setting on your iron, the moisture has nowhere to go because of the lamination. You'll find beads of moisture will build up on the right side of the fabric.

Interfacing and batting

We wanted to touch on interfacings and battings, because you might choose to make a raincoat or even a tote bag that will require an added layer between your layers of laminated cotton. There are a multitude of interfacings and battings. In general, you want to avoid anything fusible (which means anything you need to use an iron to apply). Opt instead for the sew-in type, or non-fusible. An exception to this rule are some of the heavier flannel-backed vinyls and even oilcloth, which are thick enough to withstand the higher heat required for fusible products. Even so, use a pressing cloth when fusing.

As we mentioned above, if you you want to hold non-fusibles in place prior to sewing, try a temporary spray adhesive.


Thankfully, there's really no need to finish the edges. The laminate coating keeps the edges from fraying. However, here are Sew4Home, we usually like to finish seams so the inside of the project looks as nice as the outside. For this reason, we decided to provide you with an overview of some finishing options. Pick the one that best matches the type of project you've chosen and/or your personal taste.

The simplest finish is to use pinking shears to create a nice, neat edge.

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You can wrap the raw edge with binding. We've used this technique a number of times, and like to attach it with a zig zag stitch.

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Another simple finish for a hemline is a single fold sewn in place with a straight stitch.

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A zig zag stitch is a common finish for seam allowances that fray, like a regular cotton. However, it also makes a fast finish for laminate's inside seams even though fraying isn't an issue.

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French Seams

If you're more advanced, you can use French seams. It takes a few more steps, but if you will easily see the inside of your project, like on a raincoat or a large tote bag, a French seam is a lovely finish.

NOTE: For our sample, we are using a standard garment seam allowance of ⅝".

Sew the seam WRONG sides together using a straight stitch (3.0mm) and a ¼" seam allowance.

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Fold the fabric along the seam line so it is now right sides together, enclosing the previously sewn edge.

Finger press the seam's edge, then use one of the various items we suggested to hold the layers together. We chose paper clips this time.

Sew ⅜" from the seamed edge, permanently enclosing those raw edges from the original seam.

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The seam is now pretty from both sides.

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If you want the seam to be completely flat, finger press it to one side.

Lengthen your stitch to approximately 3.5mm to 4.0mm. We also recommend using a larger needle, or a topstitch needle.

Sew along the folded edge through all the layers.

For more information, take a look at our four-part series on Machine Sewn Seam Finishes. 

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Top stitching

You'll see topstitching on the right side of many laminated cotton projects. It's a nice touch that adds a spiffy detail. As with the French seam above, use a longer stitch and a larger or topstitch needle. You will definitely need to finger press the edge and, in addition to your finger pressing, use one of the suggested methods suggested above for holding the edge in place while you sew.

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If you own a serger, you can serge the raw edges prior to sewing the pieces together.

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However, don't use the serger to construct your project because you'll have tons of holes in the seam for sure, which will create a weakened seam.

It's best to make your finishing decisions prior to getting started. And (here we go again!), be sure to test each finish on scrap pieces.

Purchasing, storing and cleaning

As we mentioned above, when you purchase laminate fabric from your local fabric shop it is normally displayed on a roll. Be sure to ask the store to re-roll it after it's cut to your desired length to avoid unnecessary wrinkles. As you already know from our section on pressing, it's important to keep this fabric wrinkle-free.

If you are buying online, most savvy retailers automatically ship their laminated cottons on a roll. When placing online orders, it's worth the extra trouble to request this packaging method. If not, your beautiful new laminate fabric will arrive folded up and creased everywhere. You can refer to the pressing tips above. Be sure YOU roll it for storage if you're not using it right away.

We defer to the manufacturers' care instructions when it comes to cleaning the laminated cotton. In general, most recommend you simply wipe the laminated cotton with a damp cloth. However, we've heard of a number of people who have washed the laminated cottons in their washing machine with success. Dryers are always a no-no. Air dry only.

As always, you be the judge and test, test, test first!


Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Jodi Kelly


Comments (58)

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Grammanene - You are so welcome; glad we could. We hope you'll come back for more information and projects!

Sue Mochrie said:
Sue Mochrie's picture

I want to sew a raincoat and line it with fleece. Would it be best to sew the fleece to the laminated cotton first, or should I make the fleece lining separately? Great information, thanks.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Sue - That's a tough question without knowing the style of the raincoat, but in general, I think it would be better for the two to be separate. I think your seams would get way too bulky if the fleece and the laminate would layered. That said... you may want a second opinion from a garment expert 

Hayley said:
Hayley's picture

What a phenomenal post. Thanks so much! I'm about to sew a Tula Pink Meteor Shower tablecloth with laminated cotton!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Hayley - So glad we could help. Love Tula... that sounds like it will be a great tablecloth. 

BevKD said:
BevKD's picture

This article is just what I needed. I'm making a changing bag for my soon-to-be-born first grandchild. Laminated cotton suitable for this project was almost impossible to find...or ridiculously expensive so I'm using a neutral tablecloth covered in hearts.I've  purchased a rolling foot for my elderly brother machine and have a range of needles. Would it be worth trying leather needles or would this be overkill? Wish  me luck!!!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ BevKD - as we mention above, we recommend a Universal needle in a size 12 or 14. These have sharp points that will easily penetrate the laminate coating. We've also read about some people who prefer a Topstitch needle or a Denim needle in a size 14 or 16. Leather needles are really best just for leather; they wouldn't be your best choice for a laminated cotton. Best of luck on your project. We're glad to have been able to help you on your way.

Karen Alexander said:
Karen Alexander's picture

A nylon hammer (some sold are called "whacker"), or a linoleum roller can replace an iron for pressing duty. I often use my hammer on denim seams to flatten them for topstitching without problems. An old solution for fabrics that don't iron well, and get too thick to sew easily.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Karen Alexander - Thanks for the tip! It's a good one 

JanaM said:
JanaM's picture

 Great article!  I am excited to try these ideas. Can't wait to get to a fabric store to purchase some laminate or oil cloth. 

I enjoy this Sew 4 Home site, it's projects and readers project comments very much.  Thank you ALL!

R Hawkins said:
R Hawkins's picture

I am using PUL with prequilted fabric to make a portable diaper changing pad. My challenge has bee teeny tiny stitch length as I cross the PUL. I used painter's tape under the presser foot, placed a new #16 needle, checked my machine threading technique and played with the stitch length dial and top thread tension dial. No matter what I have tried, the stitches are so close together I am afraid it will cut the fabric! On a scrap, I tried turning the fabric over so the PUL was on the bottom against the feed dogs and voila a beautiful stitch. I am afraid to trust this solution since there are so many comments about the fabric sticking. Could the feed dogs damage my PUL? The wrong side of the PUL is not exactly flannel, but yet soft and 'nappy'.


Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ R Hawkins - this is tough one to troubleshoot long distance because there are so many variables, but it sounds like your machine may actually have been struggling with the "nappy" side not the PUL side. Sometimes, if your machine's feed dogs have less than seven points of contact, there can be trouble moving thicker fabrics. I don't think it would damage the PUL to sew with it on the bottom, but I have not tested that option. You could try slipping a piece of waxed or parchment paper between the feed dogs and the PUL (it's easy to tear away). It sounds like a great option for you might be to invest in a Walking foot. It's a wonderful option for tricky fabrics and thick layers. 

Diane Zalusky said:
Diane Zalusky 's picture

Hi, my comment is the opposite of the last comment.  I am trying to sew a double fold seam binding to the edge of my oil cloth on my Pfaff.  I thought I could use some top stitching thread to give it some pazzaz, but even with adjusting my needle tension to its highest setting I still have bubbles of the needle thread showing on the back and the bobbin thread is straight across.  I have used a ballpoint needle and a metafil needle, no change.  Tried a regular poly-cotton thread and it's not working either.  Any suggestions?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Diane Zalusky - as we mention above, we recommend a larger, sharper needle. Have you tried a large Universal, topstitch or denim needle? It does also sound as if either the upper thread or the bobbin thread is not feeding properly. If you still have trouble after testing on a scrap with the larger/sharper needle and after re-threading both upper and bobbin, you might want to run the machine by your local dealer. We aren't really familiar with the Pfaff machines so there could be something else that is going on. 

Diane Zalusky said:
Diane Zalusky's picture

Hi, i brought my machine in to a dealer. It turns out that the motor that runs the bobbin was shot.  Had it repaired. Will have to try again 

Aubrie V said:
Aubrie V's picture

I am currently doing a project that uses laminated cotton backed by flannel.  I am having a really hard time finding the right needle for top stitching to finish an edge (going throuhg 2 layers laminate, 2 layers flannel) No matter how I adjust my tension I still see the bobbin thread on the right side of the fabric.  So far I have tried a Microtex 90, Topstitch 100 and Sharps 90. Do you have any other suggestions?


Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Aubrie V - that's a tough problem to try to troubleshoot long-distance. It may not be the needle or the the tension at all, especially if you've made sure the bobbin thread is not too loose and the top thread is not too tight. If the machine is not perfectly threaded (both top and bobbin) it can still sew but will often have an odd bobbin show-through problem. It could also be the thread itself. You could try an actual bobbin thread in the bobbin. Past that, it could be machine-specific, such as a loose bobbin casing, and so would require looking for solutions in your manual or from your local dealer. 

saraswathi said:
saraswathi's picture

Thank you for your tutorials! I have always learned something from them and always get inspired to push my creative abilities a little more! 

Carol B said:
Carol B's picture

I have been working on a raincoat for an American Girl Doll using shiny vinyl and I have tried so many different ways to get the fabric to go through my machine and I will tell you all this.  Forget the paper and the tape.  They work, but leave a giant mess to clean up after stitching.  I tried Silicon spray and that didn;t work either.  Then I had a brain storm and put a light coating of fine sewing machine oil on the fabric and it sewed up like a dream.  Not only does it work to feed the vinyl through the machine, but it lubricates your machine at the same time.  Just be sure to clean off the bottom of the pressure foot before sewing on other fabrics.

Cindy sews said:
Cindy sews's picture

Thanks for the great article.  I've been sewing with laminates for a while and still picked up some great tips.  I use Wonder Clips by Clover to hold the seams together while sewing.  Most independent quilt shops carry them.

Carol Lee Kim said:
Carol Lee Kim 's picture

Would thus heat and bond stuff work well with dining chairs that are meant to be sat on frequently? Also, anyone know of an iron-on product that is a but wider than the standard 17 or 24 inches I've been seeing? My chairs are quite wide. 

Thanks, carol

Carol Lee Kim said:
Carol Lee Kim's picture

Thanks Liz - this link isn't working.  Where can I buy this clear "laminate"?

thanks again, carol

Jess j. said:
Jess j.'s picture

Is there a laminate that I can bond myself to a fabric of my choice that is phthalete free?  I have found a couple of brands that are BPA free, but none that are phthalate free .  Any help would be appreciated!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Jess j. - We have only experimented with the Thermoweb product, Heat 'n' Bond, which we found out this about 9as stated in our article) "we researched what safety studies had been done and found that Therm O Web (the makers of of Heat 'n' Bond) had tested their product for full compatibility with government safety regulations. Their testing showed the Heat 'n' Bond Iron-On Vinyl contained no BPA or lead content. However, it does utilize a plasticizer, DIDP, and even though this Phthalate is not banned by the government, as a precaution, the company does suggest iron-on vinyl not be used on items that are specifically meant to be chewed on or sucked on by children."

Here's a link to the full tutorial:


Bett said:
Bett's picture

I use mexican oilcloth a lot to make things like lunch bags, nappy wraps, placemats, car tidies and travel pen wallets( I have a craft stall at a local market). If you need to sew something inside out like the placemats, soften the article by blowing your hairdryer inside and the fabric will go all floppy and you can then turn it out the right way without causing any creases. It works a treat!!

Newbie77 said:
Newbie77's picture

Although I'm not planning to sew with this fabric immediately, I welcome your brilliant article/tutorial. I'm  a) printing it for my 'tips' binder b) keeping it on the PC in case of loss and c) telling all my quilter friends about it. Many thanks and APPLAUSE all round people!

Sally M said:
Sally M's picture

Although I'm not planning to sew with this fabric immediately, I welcome your brilliant article/tutorial. I'm  a) printing it for my 'tips' binder b) keeping it on the PC in case of loss and c) telling all my quilter friends about it. Many thanks and APPLAUSE all round people!

Barb Kunkler said:
Barb Kunkler's picture

Oh my gosh! Can't wait to use some of these techniques. I want to make covers for all of my small appliances that are on my kitchen counters.  Thank you so much.

psquared52 said:
psquared52's picture

I was wondering if you can use laminates for a shower curtain? 

Anonymous said:
Anonymous's picture

Thank you thank you so much for this information!  I was freaking out trying to sew some blackout fabric that kept bunching and I had already ripped it out THREE TIMES (yes, full of holes...sigh) but I cut the horrific part off and used the parchment paper on top of the material and it worked like a dream!! I tried the tape on the presser foot and that didn't work for me.  Freak out averted - or at least ended - I can now continue on my journey to being a domestic goddess.  Good thing I have comfy shoes, it's gonna be a long one! :)  Again, tons of thanks!

LMR said:
LMR's picture

Thanks for the info.  I have been asking many places how to work with laminated cotton and this is by far the most complete information I have seen.

babs4008 said:
babs4008's picture

Another hugely helpful article from Sew4Home.  You make me feel like I really can do it!  I love all the inspiring projects and the hints that I'm almost too embarassed to ask anyone else about.  Please keep up the good work!

Kimmie said:
Kimmie's picture

This materal works great for baby gifts (such as changing mats, or diaper covers)!!

lmcmom said:
lmcmom's picture

I've had great success using a very tiny bit of "chapstick" on the seam line (just a tiny bit so it doesn't cause damage) with my regular sewing foot.

PennyOO said:
This would be sew much better yo make purses and similar items with. You wouldn't need all kinds of stiff stuff or batting to make them hold there shape. It probably also waterproof to some extent. Great for making meat holding grocery bags.
Christi295 said:
Christi295's picture
I made your wonderful insulated lunch bag with oilcloth the last time you featured "slick" fabrics, and I was so pleased with the project I've made 4 more! All who see my original love it and ask where I bought it. I will say the purchase of a teflon pressure foot for my machine was a huge help, as well as the binder clips for holding pieces together. The only "mistake" I made was to leave the leftover roll scrunched up with an elastic, and wasn't sure how to get the wrinkles out. But I put the roll in a tub with very hot water, and the wrinkles came out with no issues. Just dried the fabric flat, and then rolled it nicely. I have enough fabric to make some picnic placemats, then I'm trying a raincoat - but this time with a more pliable laminated cotton. The current selection of these fabrics is wonderful! So many more than there used to be. Thank you to sew4home, as usual, for your great tutorials. They always inspire me to try something new!smilies/wink.gifsmilies/wink.gif
javadiva said:
javadiva's picture
Awesome, Liz!! Thanks so much for this and looking forward to articles on fusibles and battings. smilies/smiley.gif
Chalie's Nana said:
Chalie's Nana's picture
Once again, Sew4Home is a GRAND resource for all things related to laminated fabrics. Thank you, thank you. You continue to be a place I visit for information, how to, inspiration and "yes-you-can-do-it" support.
collectedyarns said:
collectedyarns's picture
Thank you for this information. Very, very helpful and clear!
Linda Porter Jones said:
Linda Porter Jones's picture
Thank you SO much for the wonderfully imformative article. I am teaching a class using this material at the Sewing shop I work at, and will be sharing your ideas with the class. Perfect!!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ scathey - we do address some pressing notes above. We did not try the "roller" test you describe, but as long the surface is smooth and your pressure is even, it should be fine. "Finger pressing" is usually the recommended option, and often this is just fine, however - as we mentioned above, we were able to press from the wrong side with a pressing cloth on a lower setting. You just have to be very careful not to touch the iron to the laminated surface.