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Stylish Baby Nursery: Crib Bumpers in Two Cool Fabs

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Padded bumper pads for your crib are a nursery must have. Not only are they beautifully decorative, they keep your little darlin' from bonking her pretty little head. We chose a strong, graphic pattern for the inside of the bumpers, because the baby experts say that's what babies love to look at.

These instructions generally follow the instructions that come with the Fairfield Baby Bumper pads recommended below. For more information and where to buy visit poly-fil.com.

Our sample was made for a baby girl's nursery, using the stunning Patty Young Andalucia collection. For information on where to buy, read Stylish Baby Nursery: Designing Bold Colors & Patterns. This article also includes suggestions for creating an alternate fabric palette that would work well for a boy's nursery.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

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  • Fairfield NU Foam® Baby Bumper Pads - package of six measuring 10" x 26" x 1"
  • Fabric for inside of six crib bumpers: 2 yards of 45” wide fabric: we used Patty Young's Andalucia in Petal Jester.
  • Fabric for outside of six crib bumpers: 2 yards of 45" wide fabric: we used Patty Young's Andalucia in Petal Flora
  • Fabric for piping around bumpers AND corner ties: 1½ yards of 45” wide fabric: we used Patty Young's Andalucia in Fire Tiny Dots
  • 6 yards 3/8" diameter cotton cording
  • All-purpose thread in colors to match fabrics
  • Iron and Ironing board
  • See through ruler
  • Fabric marking pen or chalk pencil
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Straight pins
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Corner template (see download below)
  • 5" square piece of cardboard or template plastic for template (check your local craft store for stencil material)

Getting Started

Cut your fabric and trims

  1. Download the corner curve template and trace it onto a piece of cardboard or template plastic. Cut out.
  2. Cut six 27" x 11¾" pieces of fabric from both the Petal Jester and the Petal Flora (six pieces from each fabric). (Note: To make this amount of fabric sufficient, cut 11¾" pieces along the 45" edge of the fabric.)
  3. Using the template you made, mark a rounded edge on each corner of each 27" x 11¾" piece of fabric. Cut the rounded corners. Using the original template pattern (the paper), transfer the markings (the dots) onto your fabric using the fabric marking pen. I like to make a tiny hole with a pin right in the middle of the dot, then I line up my pattern on my fabric and make a mark with my pen through that hole.
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  4. For the ties, cut twenty-four 15½" x 2½" pieces from Fire Tiny Dots.
  5. Cut six 30" lengths from cording.
  6. Cut six 2¼" wide bias strips according to the instructions below. Each will need to be about 30" long.

Cut your bias strips

  1. On your cutting surface, lay your fabric out flat, right side up, with the selvage running along one side.
  2. The selvage is the woven edge of your fabric where it was originally attached to the loom. The fabric's pattern does not continue onto the selvage, but there is likely to be some information printed there that identifies the manufacturer or designer.
  3. Fold the fabric back diagonally so a straight edge is parallel to the selvage.
  4. Press the fold and use this crease as a guide to mark your parallel lines.
  5. Use a straight edge to make continuous parallel likes 2¼" apart.
  6. Cut along these lines with good, sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and straight edge.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Join bias strips

  1. You may need to join two strips to make one that is the necessary 30" long. To do this, take two of your strips and place them right sides together at right angels to each other.
  2. Stitch straight across.
  3. Lay flat, press the seam open and trim off the overlapping edges.
  4. Repeat until you have one long fabric strip.

Insert the cord

  1. Place one 30" bias strip right side down on a large flat surface.
  2. Lay a 30" length of cord in the center.
  3. Fold the fabric over the cord, keeping the cord centered and matching the raw edges of the fabric.
  4. Pin to hold in place.
  5. Carefully move to your sewing machine and adjust the piping so the raw edges line up on your seam allowance marking and cord pokes out to the left of your foot.
  6. Using the Zipper Foot, stitch slowly staying close to the cord and keeping your seam allowance consistent. Remember to remove your pins as you go so you don't sew over them.
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Stitch cording to bumper fabric

  1. Pin cording to the right side of a 27" x 11¾" piece of Petal Flora fabric. Using the dots you made with the template, start pinning the cording at the large dot in the center of left curved edge, stretching along the 27" straight side, and ending in the center of the curved edge at the large dot on the right side. Be sure to match the raw edges of the piping insertion fabric and the base fabric. Your cording should be centered between the dots.
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  2. Stitch in place using the zipper foot. You are stitching around a curve so you'll need to gently ease the fabric, which means it might ripple slightly. That's okay.
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  3. Repeat to add cording in this same manner to all six 27" x 11¾" Petal Flora pieces.

Make the ties

  1. With right sides together, fold a 15½" x 2½" Fire Tiny Dots fabric strip in half lengthwise.
  2. Stitch ¼" in from the edge along the long edge and across one end. Stop with your needle down at the corner, lift your presser foot, and pivot 90˚ to make a nice clean angle.
  3. Trim the corners, being careful not to clip into your seam.
  4. Press the long seam open.
  5. Turn the strip right side out. You've made a fairly narrow little tube, so you'll need a little help turning it. My favorite way is to use a large safety pin. Attach the safety pin to the seamed end and make sure the pin is securely closed. Then, pushing the pin backwards, wiggle it in on itself. It will take just a second to get this going, then you can keep wiggling the pin backwards until it comes out the other end. It's just like a snake shedding its skin, but not as creepy. Finally, slip a small knitting needle or other slim, dull pointy object up inside the tube and poke out the corners so they are nice and sharp. Janome machines come with a cool little lint brush, the other end of which is perfect for this task.
  6. Press the tie so the seam runs nice and straight along one long edge. We can leave other short edge unsewn, because this will not be seen – it will be sewn into the bumper.
  7. Repeat to finish all twenty-four ties in the same manner.

Finish the bumpers

  1. Pin a tie to the side of a Petal Flora piece, with the right side of the fabric facing up. Use the template to determine where to put them - you will pin them just below the small dot on the upper corners and just above the small dot on the lower corners. Pin them so the unfinished edge is matched along the edge of the Petal Flora Fabric.
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  2. Stitch the ties in place.
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  3. Repeat on all six pieces of Petal Flora.
  4. With right sides together, and ties and cording on the inside, pin a Petal Jester piece to a Petal Flora piece. It's very important that you make sure your ties are all facing in and free of the seams.
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  5. Stitch along THREE sides using the zipper foot. On the top edge, stitch slowly and as close to the cording as possible. On the edges without cording stitch using a standard ½" seam. You may change to a regular foot if you are more comfortable sewing with this on these edges. Leave one short edge open for turning and inserting the bumper pads.
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  6. Turn the cover right side out so the cording and ties pop out... ta-da!
  7. Insert bumper pads into the cover.
    NOTE: It will help give you a nice snug fit if you use the corner template to round the corners of the foam just as you did with the fabric panels.
  8. Turn under the seam allowance so your seam edges are flush to one another, and slip stitch the opening closed.
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Hints and Tips

You may find it easier to insert the bumper pads if you place them in a plastic bag before doing so. This will allow them to slip more easily into the covers. Be sure to do this so that the bag can be removed after the pads are in the covers.

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Aimee McGaffey
Instructional Editing: Alison Newman

Other machines suitable for this project include the Pfaff Select 4.0 and the Bernina Bernette 92c.

Results From Our Readers

Submitted by Rachel in Idaho

Submitted by Veronica in Hayden, AL



Comments (189)

Flora Z said:
Flora Z's picture
Thanks. I didn't read the instructions all the way thru. I like the look of the rounded corners a lot better than the squared look. I will send you a picture of the completed project.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Flora Z -- take a look at the very last steps in the instructions: you use the same corner curve template you use to round the fabric corners:

"Insert bumper pads into the cover.
NOTE: It will help give you a nice snug fit if you use the corner template to round the corners of the foam just as you did with the fabric panels."
Flora Z said:
Flora Z's picture
Could you tell me how the corners become rounded when the Fairfield Nu-Foam bumper pads are square? Does this happen on it's own when the foam is stuffed into the fabric cases?
Thanks for all the helpful info you are sharing.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@LMoore - 3/16" is really thin -- that's about half the size of 3/8". If you remember your 4th grade fractions, when you turn 3/8" into sixteenths, you get 6/16". So if at all possible, you should try to get something about twice as thick. I don't think it would look right without the cording; it would be too floppy. Here's one option that is just a little bit thicker - 1/2" instead of 3/8" - that would work.


LMoore said:
LMoore 's picture
Hey! So I looked all over for 3/8" cording with no luck. So I got cording that is 3/16". I think it should be fine... but have never done cording before and wanted your advice- will it look silly with smaller cording? Would the bumpers look good with no cording at all?
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
hi Angie P -- Read through the last "Finish the Bumpers" section a couple of times, concentrating on those pictures. You stitch the ties in place on the one side and then layer front to back and stitch together. As the directions note, you leave one short side partially open to insert the pads, but remember... you already stitched the ties in place, so pull them out, then to close the opening, you fold in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with your sewn seam and then slip stitch closed with a hand sewing needle. Take a look at our Hand Sewing Basics tutorial if you are new to that:

Angie P said:
Angie P's picture
Hi Liz! I think these bumpers are ah-mazing! And I'm using your tutorial as a guideline for the bumpers for my second son's crib set - with a few differences. For instance, instead of the cording for the top, I added a 1 1/2" border, and also, I will not be rounding the edges, although I do think that yours look fantastic just the way they are. My questions are these:

1) Could you show me or tell me how to sew the last end closed? I am SUPER BRAND NEW to sewing, and don't have a clue on how to do it.
2) How do you properly sew in the two ties on the open side?

Thanks so much for your help. I will definitely add pictures of the final product when done! smilies/smiley.gif
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Kris -- this project has been done so many times -- a helpful s4h visitor already attempted and succeeded at just what you are considering: a solid pad. She wrote all about it above ... scroll up to read the multiple posts from "Laura R" Regarding the skirt - no we do not have a pleated crib skirt at this time, but I'm sure you could find one by searching online and/or as a standard purchased pattern. Have fun!
Kris said:
Kris's picture
Hi! I am absolutely in love with your bumper pads and plan to make them this summer as I am redoing some things in my daughters room. However, her crib is not slatted in the back, it is a convertible crib that is made to convert to a full size headboard with no slats. So...what would be the modified measurement of a continuous Long crib bumper for the back, as there would be non place to tie 2 together? And do you have a tutorial for a pleated bed skirt? I didn't see it at the bottom, but wanted to make sure i didn't overlook it.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Ale -- on the piping: the seam allowance will be about 1/2". I say "about" because the key is to sew as close to the piping as possible to get a nice clean, piped edge. That may be a teensy bit larger or smaller than 1/2". Line it up for 1/2" and then adjust so your zipper foot is as close to the piping cord as you can safely sew.

We don't have a pattern for a hanging toy bag at this time, but I'll put it on the wish list.

Hope that helps.
Ale said:
Ale's picture
Hi! I just love your tutorial and I just started making one for the little one on the way, I have a couple of questions, 1. what is your seam allowance when sewing the piping to the 27" x 11 3/4" piece of fabric? is it 1/2"? and also do you happen to have a tutorial or a pattern for a hanging toy bag? like the ones you can find on different bedding sets? I'd love to have one of those as well.

Thanks again!!smilies/smiley.gif
DeeMarie said:
DeeMarie's picture
thanks! I just wanted to also add that I found a great tool that I've only seen at large flea markets and county fairs in the tents with nail clippers etc. It's called a Kelly Clamp. Looks like sissors but doesn't cut. They have a very long and thin shape so I insert them into things like the ties and can clamp them & just pull the material right side out very easily. Works fantastic and they cost less than $5
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi DeeMarie -- the amount of fabric will depend a bit on the fabric you select. If you have a stripe or other directional print, you might need a bit more. As the instruction mention above, you need twenty-four 15½" x 2½" pieces for the ties. When I figure yardage, I often sketch it out on a piece of paper. If you have 45" in width or no directional pattern issues, you can cut the ties side by side, which would mean you could get the 24 strips in 30" of length -- but that is cutting very precisely, so I would recommend a full yard.
DeeMarie said:
DeeMarie's picture
How much 45" fabric would I need to make just the 24 ties? I already have a quilted fabric for the bumpers but I want to tie in a whole nursery ensemble by making the background of a wall hanging picture match with the ties. The boarders of the frame of the wall hang picture is the bumper materials
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Danielle K -- WOW! your whole nursery full of our stuff. Thanks for the pictures. Yellow is a fave of mine - and those flowers are awesome. Great job! Happy baby smilies/grin.gif
Danielle K. said:
Danielle K.'s picture
Just wanted to thank you guys for the Stylish Baby Nursery series of projects! I've nearly completed an entire nursery set using all your patterns and am LOVING it. I need to finish the baskets and the throw pillows and my mom is doing the scalloped rag quilt for me, but other than that I'm about done! I've done the curtains, dust ruffle, bumpers, and ricrac blanket. I also made a couple homemade bed sheets! Anyway, just wanted to thank you for the awesome pattern writing and attention to detail! I'll upload a couple pictures because, if I do say so myself, my fabrics are amazing, too. smilies/wink.gif

Hopefully those show up! Thanks again!
Abra Ebner said:
Abra Ebner's picture
SO EXCITED TO DO THIS!!!! Ugh, if people would just look into statistics. There were 27 infant deaths over a TWENTY year period due to crib bumpers... Likely they weren't watching how they fastened the bumpers, either. Personally, like I said, I'm very excited for this project! Already purchased the pads! (Now I just need to know what I'm having). smilies/grin.gif
Alison in UK said:
Alison in UK's picture
Re availability of Fairfield bumper pads in UK, if anyone is having the same problemn I bought some online from Amazon.
Alison in UK said:
Alison in UK's picture
I love these bumper pads and would like to make them, but where can I buy Fairfield pads in the UK. I would appreciate your help with this
Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home's picture
Hi Lauren, I addressed similar questions (not the same size fabric) above, so you can scroll up and read in more detail, but in general, I think you could get it to work with the same 2 yard cuts. You need to cut six 27" x 11¾" pieces from the front fabric and six from the back fabric. A lot depends on what your fabric design looks like and whether the motif will allow super tight cutting. If your design is omnidirectional or horizontal and you can cut the width (27") across your 36" wide fabric, you should be just fine. Another idea is to make a paper pattern 27" x 11¾" and map it out on your fabric(s). Your other options are to trim down the foam inserts and/or make a slightly smaller seam allowance.
Lauren said:
Lauren's picture

The fabric I have fallen in love with to make this project only comes in 36inch would it be possible to still do this?? And if so how much would I need? Thank you!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Soon2Bqueen - the crib we used for our sample was very standard. These bumpers are adjustable because of the ties, but they should be a snug fit when tied together. Each pad is 26" in length, which means (without account fabric and piping) they should be perfect in a standard crib... about 52" along the side and about 26" at the headboard and footboard. A standard crib is 30 x 54 and a standard crib mattress is 27.5 x 52 .... so if you have a standard full-size crib, these will work great.
bsurugbychief said:
bsurugbychief's picture
Dear Liz:

I am new to Sew4Home.com and LOVE this site! This site makes sewing fun and easy! My current project is the crib bumper, just finished the dust ruffle.

I adore the decorative balls that are hanging from the ceiling. Where can I find (or make) something like that?
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Molly P -- if you use the pads we recommend, they are designed to be completely washable - you can throw the whole shebang into the washer and dryer. That's why we did these the way we did ... way easier than adding an opening on one side and having to remove the pads every time. smilies/grin.gif. Just make sure you pre-wash your fabric before you begin.
Molly P said:
Molly P's picture
Hi, I going to make this crib bumper set and I had a question about adding velcro. I'm thinking about adding the velcro so I can remove the pads if I ever have to wash the bumpers. I was wondering if this is something that could be done and if so how would you recommend doing it? I'm think it would be easy to do, but wanted to check first. I'm very new to sewing and I want everything to look nice. Thank you so much!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hello Karen M -- you could do square corners, but if you decide to do the piping, rounded corners are actually easier.
Karen M said:
Karen M's picture
Hi. I'm thinking about trying this project for my daughter who is due March 23rd. Would it be possible to do this bumper without rounding the edges? I'm very new to sewing and the rounded edges make me very nervous!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hello mama2be -- I'm so glad you've chosen us for your first project. The width of the crib should be fine; the standard 10 x 26 pad should work just dandy for the headboard and footboard. But, along the side, you'd have to trim down the bumper pads in order to get two to fit. You'd need to trim them down from 26" to about 19". That means you'll need to do some math as you go along, subtracting 7" from each length measurement above. Regarding yardage, you might be able to get away with about 1/4 yard less on all the cuts, but without taking the time to draw everything out at the new size, I can't guarantee that. It also depends somewhat on the type of fabric design you choose and if you fussy cut your design. In the grand scheme of things, it might be best to stick with the measurements above and use any leftovers to make some fun matching pillows or little receiving blankets. Have fun!
mama2be said:
mama2be's picture
what about making this for a smaller crib? we have a mini crib that measures 28" x 38". what would the yardage be for a crib like this? i'm absolutely a beginner to all things sewing... this will basically be my first!
Lauren said:
Lauren's picture
My Mom made the crib set with your patterns and I did two of the pillows for the nursery...love it so much! Much better than any store bought set, and I love the fact my son has a handmade gift from Grandma!

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carolynamartin2@gmail.com said:
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Future gramma, in addition to what Liz suggested about contacting the manufacturer (which is how I found the same info on my grandchild's crib)I also did this to customize my crib skirt. I made one long side of the skirt to fit the longer drop measurement-this would be the longer length used when the mattress was in the 'high' position and I made the other long side of the skirt the 'shorter drop' measurement. The 2 shorter ends of the crib were both left the longest measurement. Now here's what I did for those 3 longer sides to be able to be 'folded' up to match the shorter length when my daughter needs to lower the mattress: after completing all my sewing of the 3 panels and before I attached them big center common piece, on the WRONG side of the 3 sides that are longer; this would be: the 2 short ends and 1 long side, I used fusible velcro squares (which I cut) placed intermittently on the dust ruffle positioned such that she can 'pin' it up to the correct length so they will all look the same-do you get what I'm saying?smilies/smiley.gif There's the 'hook' side of the velcro positioned close to the hem and the 'eye' side positioned above it at whatever height it needs to be at to match the short-long side! It's actually a simple concept, but my explanation might not be! My skirt is a box pleat style but it will work for gathered also if that's what you're doing-this way it wil always look custom no matter what position the mattress is in and it's simple for my daughter to adjust. Hope I'm clear? and, if not, feel free to ask me any ?'s.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi future gramma - sorry, I don't know anything about that particular crib. Maybe you can find the manufacturer online and send them a question.
future gramma said:
future gramma's picture
Thank you Liz! Bumper pads all done! They look great! Now on to the next project. Can anyone tell me how long to make a dust ruffle for a DaVinci Meagan crib. None of the stores here in town have one on display to measure and I am trying to surprise the new parents so I don't want to ask them. I would want it to touch the ground at the lowest setting. Thanks in advance for your help!!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi furture gramma... no need to cut the strips for this piping on the bias. It can be straight cut. The real necessity for bias-cutting is if you are applying the trim (piping, bias tape, whatever) to a curve. Have fun!!
future gramma said:
future gramma's picture
I am just starting these and I am wondering if I have to cut the strips for the piping on the bias or can I just cut them on the straight of grain. I have a striped fabric for the piping and not sure how it would look on the bias. Thanks for any help!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hello Aurora -- Thanks for the compliment, but no - we don't sell any of our samples. Our goal is to get YOU inspired enough to make things yourself. You should give it a shot. Even these bumpers are easier than you'd think, especially with our instructions! And choosing your own fabrics is one of the best parts. You're right about what is often available in stores ... not very much to choose from. Come on.... you can do it. If you're feeling nervous, maybe get a friend to help. It's fun to work on things together and if you have a friend with more sewing experience, she/he can help you over any rough spots. Hope you try smilies/grin.gif.
Aurora said:
Aurora 's picture
I'm not one really for sewing, only very small things. I love the bold and creative colors used in all the examples and would love to buy a bumper that has already been created. I can't seem to find stores that sell many bumpers by themselves that fit the scope of design that I like and prefer. I'm sorry but, I'm not one for all the same flowers and animals like most sets that are advertised in the stores. I'd much rather build my own to my liking. Do you sell any of your creations posted on here?
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Future Mother -- We used the Nu-Foam bumper pad inserts from Poly-Fil. They make construction way easier, and they are completely washable. Because they are actual foam pad inserts, they won't bunch up. You can read more about them here:


They are readily available at online retailers like Amazon, Hancock and Jo-Ann as well as in store.
Future Mother said:
Future Mother's picture
I have purchased my fabric to make these bumper pads. I was wondered if they were washable. If so, does the stuffing bunch up? How do I keep it from looking mangled and lumpy if I have to wash them? Or, how do I keep the stuffing stable to avoid this issue all together (if it does bunch)? Hope you can help and thank you in advance!!!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Natalie, This is one of our most popular projects. I'm glad you found it. To get the safety pin out, you do have to unclasp it and unhook it "blindly" ... with the pin inside the tube. And then gently shake it out. You can also use an unsharpened pencil or a long knitting needle to push the tie right side out. OR.... using a recent tutorial, if you have or can get a pair of hemostats, you can turn tiny tubes right side out in a flash. You can read the tutorial here:

Natalie said:
Natalie's picture
Quick question, when making the ties, when i attach the safety pin to the closed end of the fabric, and push it all the way to the bottom, how DO i get the safety pin out afterwards ?? im sure theres an incredibly simple answer to this, but im pregnant and seem to have lost my brain.. LOVE the tutorial by the way ! by far the BEST one i found on the internet !
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Manny -- my quick tips to help with sewing in a circle are: shorten your stitch length, use a cloth guide along the edge of your fabric to help you maintain a straight line or actually drawn the circle first on your fabric to give yourself a line to follow, and finally, stop every once in a while, with your needle in the down position, and adjust your fabric slightly to stay on your curve. Best of luck!
manny said:
manny's picture
Hola Liz, fijate que mi esposo y yo andamos buscando bebe y pues este proyecto me anima aun mas a buscarlo para poder hacer la idea que nos has dado con este tutorial jeje smilies/tongue.gif ...... queria saber si tienes algun tip o tutorial para poder coser en circulo, ya que me voy chueca y me salen mal, ojala que si y una vez mas.... I LOVE IT smilies/grin.gif