Inserting a zipper into a project is a skill that, once learned, will always serve you well. It really opens up design possibilities in your sewing. Plus, most people believe inserting a zipper is super hard, maybe even a little magical, so they'll be incredibly impressed when they see the pillow you made has a zip closure. Truth is, sewing a zipper is pretty basic stuff. And, it's one of those projects that comes with an 'Aha moment' – opening the zipper you've just sewn into a project is like opening a treasure chest. Okay, maybe it's a bit less dramatic, because I have never found gold pirate doubloons inside my pillows. But the sense of accomplishment is still really great!

A bit of beginner's advice: shop carefully when selecting your first zipper. Zippers with smaller sliders are easier to manage, because there is less bulk to deal with. Also, keep in mind zippers come in various lengths. You'll want to get one as close as possible to the actual length (the actual opening) you need. If you can't match the size exactly, get one that is a bit too large. You can shorten it with some sewing tricks (which we'll cover in a subsequent article). For now, below are some basic instructions for inserting a zipper.

Our instructions explain how to insert the zipper. When adding a zipper to an actual project, like a pillow, you will need to sew the zipper into a seam. In general, that means you sew a regular seam before and after the zipper, since most zippers don't run down the entire length of one side. Read your pillow (or other project) instructions and pattern carefully, then insert the zipper in the proper location, according to our instructions below.

Wait ... one more piece of advice, use a zipper foot. If one didn't come standard with your machine (most do), it's worth a few extra bucks to buy one from your dealer. It will make the process so, so, so much easier.

1. Take the two pieces of fabric that will be on either side of your zipper-to-be, and pin them right sides together.
   
2. Select a straight stitch. Adjust your stitch length to the longest stitch length possible. This creates what is referred to as a ‘basting stitch’; it is used to hold pieces of fabric together for a short period of time. The stitches are extra long, so they will be easy to rip out when you are finished using them. For a tutorial on adjusting your stitch length, read: Selecting Machine Stitch Length.
3. Baste the two pieces of fabric together using a ½" seam allowance.
4. Press the seam open.
   
5. Place the zipper so the teeth of the zipper fall in the ditch of the seam you just made, with the right side of the zipper facing down.
6. Pin the zipper in place.
   NOTE: Zippers can be kind of tricky to pin into a seam with your pins running sideways; instead, pin them parallel to the sides of the zipper as shown. Next, think about the way you will be sewing the zipper. You'll start on one side of the zipper, sew along it, then turn and sew the opposite direction. Position the heads of the pins so they face toward you as you sew; this makes them very easy to remove. In other words: the heads of the pins on the right side of the zipper will face one way while the heads of the pins on the left side will face the opposite way.
   
7. Attach a zipper foot to your machine. A zipper foot is specially shaped to allow you to stitch as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Many zipper feet have two locations where they can be attached to the machine. This is so you can start your stitch on either side of a zipper. For these instructions, you will want the zipper foot to attach on the left side.
   
   NOTE: For our example, we are going to stitch the zipper from the back side. Our photos show a contrasting white thread. We used this to better show the stitching in the photograph – you'll actually want to use thread that matches your zipper and fabric. Make sure this matching thread is in BOTH the top and in the bobbin, as it is the bobbin thread that will show on the OUTSIDE of your project when stitching from the back, and you want the stitching to be hidden as much as possible. For a more advanced technique, you can topstitch around the zipper using contrasting thread, which adds a nice decorative effect to your projects. To do this, you would follow our instructions as written, but when actually stitching the zipper, you would turn the fabric over and stitch from the top. This makes it a bit more difficult to see the edge of the zipper, but gives you more control over the way the stitching looks from the top. If using this technique, we suggest still pinning from the back, but then basting the zipper in place by hand and removing the pins. You can then topstitch, confident you zipper is in the correct position; your basting thread can be removed when done.
8. Stitch around all four sides of the zipper, keeping the side of the zipper foot as close to the zipper as possible. Use this pattern:
   Stitch down the right side of the zipper.
   Stop just a few stitches past the end of the zipper with the needle in the down position.
   Rotate the zipper and fabric 90˚.
   Stitch to just a few stitches past the edge of the zipper. Stop with the needle in the down position.
   Rotate the zipper and fabric 90˚.
   Stitch up the left side of the zipper.
   Stop just a few stitches past the end of zipper with the needle in the down position.
   Rotate the zipper and fabric 90˚.
   Stitch to meet your original starting point.  
   
   NOTE: Sewing around the zipper pull is a bit difficult, especially if the pull adds a lot of bulk to the seam. One way to compensate for this is to push the zipper pull down once you get to that part of the seam. The best way to do this is to sew most of the way up the side of the zipper; once you get to a place where the zipper pull is adding bulk, stop with the needle in the down position. Lift the presser foot to get better access to the zipper pull and maneuver it down, past the end of your stitches. Sew around the top of the zipper, and down the next side, again until the zipper pull starts adding bulk to the sewing. At this point, stop with the needle down again, maneuver the zipper pull up to the top, and finish the sewing.
9. Flip your project to the right side, and using a seam ripper, open the basting stitches.
   
10. Check that your zipper opens correctly.
    

Comments (7)

melie said:

... I just started sewing a few months ago and have been actively looking for a blog that I could read quickly during work breaks that would allow me to really learn something useful and fundamental. I was so pleased when I found yours a few weeks ago. I don't know that I've ever commented on a blog, but after reading this post especially, I had to let you know how much I appreciate your blog. You always have something new with just enough challenge and direction. I also love your writing style, friendly and never intimidating. The added bonus is your consistency. Most sites I've found post sporadically at best. Thank you so much for your work and inspirations and please keep it up!

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November 12, 2009
Votes: +1

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

	... Hi melie -- we're so happy to hear from a new sewer like you. That's what we're all about here: helping people understand they CAN create great stuff. Keep us posted on how you're doing, and if you do one of our projects, take a picture and send it to us. We promise to heap praise upon your wonderful work! Keep it up!
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November 12, 2009
Votes: +1

mummsie said:

	... Zippers have always been alittle wobbly for me. Now I see I've been pinning wrong. Also will try the basting. Things my High School Ecnomics class didn't teach me. lol Thank you for all your projects !!!
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November 13, 2009
Votes: +0

mcerda said:

	... I sooo could've used this a couple of weeks ago when making my kids costumes. This was the first year I attempted a zipper and, needless to say, they did not come out very good. Your instructions are very clear and make it seem easy. Now I am inspired to try it again!. Thank you
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November 13, 2009
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Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

	... Zippity-do-dah ... we're so happy so many of you are finding this tutorial helpful.
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November 14, 2009
Votes: +1

mkdarrah said:

	... I found using Scotch tape across the zipper instead of pins work great. Zipper lies flat and no pins to take out.
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November 23, 2009
Votes: +0

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

	... Thanks for the tip, mkdarrah. Do you find you need to change your needle more often or have to clean off any residue after sewing over the tape?
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November 24, 2009
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