Buttons are one of the greatest, and cheapest ways to add a bit o' bling to a project. However, with the button comes something many sewers find intimidating: the buttonhole. Luckily, the majority of today's sewing machines do most of the work for you. Our tutorial will allow you to confront your fears, and will show you how easy buttonholes really are. This tutorial covers two ways of making buttonholes: 1) using an automatic buttonhole feature on a sewing machine, or 2) using a four-step buttonhole feature on a sewing machine. Most machines these days will offer at least one four-step or automatic buttonhole. If your machine doesn't offer one of these, it is possible to create a manual buttonhole. But in all honesty, getting a new machine is probably a better option. Then you can make buttonholes 'til the cows come home. And we all know how much the cows love a good buttonhole. However, some specialty fabrics or buttons may demand the extra attention of a manual buttonhole. Check back for a future article detailing this technique.

What You'll Need

• Sewing machine
• Buttonhole foot
• Practice fabric or a project that needs a buttonhole
• Button of choice
• Fabric marking pen
• Thread in color to match or contrast with fabric
• Small, sharp scissors or seam ripper
• Straight pins

The Most Common Buttonholes

This is a square buttonhole, which is widely used on medium to heavy weight fabrics. It is a standard buttonhole, and the one you would be most likely to use in home decor projects.

This buttonhole is used on fine to medium weight fabrics, especially for blouses or children's clothes.

This buttonhole is rounded at both ends and is used on fine, delicate fabrics, such as silk.

The Keyhole buttonhole is widely used on medium to heavy weight fabrics. It is also suitable for larger and thicker buttons because the keyhole at one end allows a bit of an extra opening to push in the button.

This buttonhole can be used on stretch fabrics. It can also be used as a decorative buttonhole.

This buttonhole is also suitable for knit fabrics or as a decorative buttonhole.

Testing and Marking

You should always make a test buttonhole on an extra piece of the fabric you are using to check your settings.

If your fabric is heavy, stretchy, or if you are using specialty threads, you may need to adjust your buttonhole. Make a test buttonhole according to the instructions below to make sure the settings are suitable. If the button doesn't fit through your test buttonhole comfortably, you can lengthen the size of the buttonhole by pulling the button holder back a little bit on an automatic buttonhole, or by lengthening your markings for a four-step or manual buttonhole.

It is also important to mark your buttonholes on your fabric before you start your project. You can use your test buttonhole as a guide for placement. Additionally, you can use this formula for determining how long your buttonhole should be: Diameter of button + ¼".

Use the marking pen to mark the placement of the buttonhole.

Instructions for Making an Automatic One-Step Buttonhole

This is a buttonhole foot for making an automatic buttonhole. As you can see, it is much different than a traditional sewing machine foot. This foot works with a sensor on your sewing machine so that it makes the exact size buttonhole for the button you are using. The button is placed in the slot at the back of the foot, and the foot adjusts to the size of the button. There is a sensor on the machine which works with the foot to create a buttonhole the appropriate size. This is an incredibly easy way to make a buttonhole! There is one down-side, however. It works best with flat buttons. If you have a button with a raised surface, or a button that is not round, this option won't work as well. In that case, it is best to go with the four-step buttonhole, or a manual buttonhole.

1. Carefully mark the buttonhole(s) on your fabric. Use the following formula for determining size: Diameter of button + ¼".
2. Place the button in the sensor slot of the buttonhole foot. Pull down the buttonhole sensor. Attach the foot to the machine.

3. Select a buttonhole stitch from the stitches available on your machine.
4. Place the fabric with the buttonhole mark under the needle. Align the front/top mark with the needle hole of the foot. Lower the needle into the fabric and adjust placement if necessary.

5. Start the machine and sew the buttonhole. The machine will sew the front bartack of the buttonhole, then down the left side, then return to the starting point and sew the right side and the back bartack.
   
6. The machine will stop automatically at the end of the buttonhole.
   
7. Remove the fabric from the machine.
8. Open the buttonhole using small sharp scissors or a seam ripper. Be careful! You can place a pin in the end of the buttonhole to be sure you don't accidentally cut the bartack stitches.
   

Instructions for Making a Four-Step Buttonhole

This is the foot for making a four-step buttonhole. This foot is generally clear for easy viewing, and has a needle hole that will accommodate zig zag stitches.

1. Carefully mark the buttonhole(s) on your fabric. Use the following formula for determining size: Diameter of button + ¼".
2. Place the fabric with the buttonhole mark under the needle. Align the back/bottom mark with the needle hole of the foot. This is backwards to the way you traditionally sew and opposite of how you aligned for the automatic buttonhole (above). You can use the handwheel to lower the needle into the fabric to be sure you begin sewing in the precise location. Once you're satisfied with placement, lower the presser foot.
   
3. Set the stitch length on your machine to 0.5-1 and the pattern selector dial to 1.
   
4. Slowly sew forward until you reach the front/top marking on your buttonhole. The machine will be making tiny zigzag stitches. Be sure that you stop on the LEFT swing of the zigzag (I believe that would be the "zag").
5. Set the pattern selector dial to 4/2.
   
6. Sew the front bartack. The machine will make a number of stitches back and forth in the same place.
7. Set the pattern selector dial to 3.
   
8. Sew until you reach the back/bottom marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing on the right swing of a zig zag stitch
   (you got it ... the "zig").
9. Set the pattern selector dial to 4/2.
   
10. Sew a few bartacks and remove the needle from the fabric by turning the handwheel.
11. Open the buttonhole using small sharp scissors or a seam ripper. Be careful! You can place a pin in the end of the buttonhole to be sure that you don't accidentally cut the stitches.
    

Comments (22)

Evelyn in Iowa City said:

... Thank you so much for this well-illustrated, clear explanation. I deeply appreciate your effort in creating and posting this.

January 26, 2012

GRACE GOEBEL said:

... CUTE LOVE IT MAYBE I WILL MAKE THAT!

December 30, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... @ WyomingGranny -- Glad our article was some help to you. Janome is one of our great sponsors here at S4H, but we are a completely separate company, so I don't have the inside scoop of all their models. I am not familiar with the 7330 you mentioned. My first recommendation would be to contact your Janome dealer locally and take the machine in. Perhaps there is a simple adjustment that needs to be made. Or you can contact the Janome America customer relations department at: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it '> This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

October 09, 2011

WyomingGranny said:

... Your tips are a great help for my Janome 7330 automatic buttonhole maker, but I thought I was doing everything right, including pulling down the senser, but sometimes it starts sewing forward instead of backward. I've yet to get three consecutive, identical buttonholes on my (interfaced) fabric scrap. What am I still doing wrong? I'm almost ready to dig out my 20-year-old Singer with its separate buttonhole gadget that used cams to produce consistent buttonholes every time.

October 08, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... @ sara livitchi -- I always suggest asking your sewing machine dealer for help first, because you can bring in your machine and show him/her exactly the problem you are having and then practice the techniques they suggest. In the meantime, below are links to a couple good online articles. The first one is from a blog done by the Janome Canada group and shows how the stabilizer plate Janome sells can make working on difficult fabrics, like knits, easier. It also shows you the best buttonhole styles for stretchy fabrics. The second link is to an interfacing tip. Hope that helps http://janomelife.wordpress.com/2010/09/03/new-buttonhole-stabilizer-plate/ http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?readreview=1&ID=19

October 06, 2011

sara livitchi said:

... Can I ask for help? I have a Janome machine and am new to the world of buttons and button holes. I am able to make beautiful, professional looking buttonholes on regular fabrics, but when I recently tried on a stretch knit cardigan, the foot stopped moving the fabric like it should and everything got all bunched up. I tried several different buttonholes and each ended with the same result. Is there a trick to get it to work correctly? I would greatly appreciate any ideas

October 05, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Liz D -- Sorry, I don't know much detail about the Husqvarna line. I would suggest taking the machine to your local Husqvarna dealer or contacting them online. I does sound like there is something wrong with the machine.

April 05, 2011

Liz D said:

... Hi Liz, I have a Husqvarna Emerald 118. I'm trying to use my automatic button foot, but every time I do it sews one side of a buttonhole and never does the bartack - it just stops feeding, then keeps sewing in one spot. My manual says I have the settings correct, and I have my buttonhole tab pulled down. Troubleshooting suggestions? -Liz

April 04, 2011

Coffeebean said:

... Thanks so much for this tutorial! I finally learned how to do the 1-step buttonhole on my Janome. This explanation is far more simpler and easier than the one in the manual. My buttonholes came out beautiful! Thanks again for this tutorial! - Coffeebean

March 11, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi again Sstendell -- sounds like you've done everything you are supposed to... including reading your manual (I'm impressed on that one!). Your next option might be to forget about using the buttonhole foot and make a TRUE manual buttonhole. BurdaStyle did a good tutorial on this awhile back: http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/make-buttonholes Doesn't look as perfect as an automatic buttonhole, but it works. Hope that helps.

February 23, 2011

Sstendell said:

... I have a kenmore 19110. I read the manual and it doesn't appear to have a manual buttonhole option, just the automatic. I have to place the button in the back of the foot. It says it only does up to 1 in but I need larger. I'm trying to recover an infant carseat and make the buttonhole where the straps come thru.

February 23, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Sstendell -- it depends on the type of machine you have. On my Janome I have an "Auto Buttonhole" feature, which allows me to essentially do a manual buttonhole in a large size. I used this feature when I made "Liz's Hiding Curtain" for which I needed buttonholes that would fit over a drawer pull. http://sew4home.com/tips-resources/interviews-inspiration/652-lizs-hiding-curtain It is important when you do manual buttonholes that you have very clear and precise markings.

February 23, 2011

Sstendell said:

... Is there a way to make the button holes long than 1 in when u use the automatic button hole foot on a machine?

February 23, 2011

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi moabgirl -- I have never had a button fall out of my automatic buttonhole foot. On the contrary, sometimes I've had trouble sliding the stop back to get it out! Check your manual to make sure you have it locked in place correctly. You might also want to bring it by your local dealer; there might be something wrong with the foot.

February 21, 2011

moabgirl said:

... My problem with the auto buttonholer was that the button kept falling out. What was I doing wrong? Anybody else have that problem?

February 20, 2011

Harriet said:

... You wonderful, wonderful person. I have a good machine and the automatic foot but had never managed to make it work until i read this. "Pull down the buttonhole sensor". "Pull down the buttonhole sensor". Genius! I never knew my machine had one or that my not using it was the reason why my buttonhole foot never worked. A thousand thank yous. I am going to go buttonhole crazy now. You are brilliant.

December 04, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Karen in NC ... this is probably a question for your sewing machine dealer or you can dig out the manual that came with your machine. The automatic buttonhole foot is easier than a 4-step. Your machine does have to have the 1,2,3,4 functions (similar to what we show above) in order for the four-step process to work correctly. Some more advanced machines also have a feature that allows you to set the start and stop and create a larger buttonholes. On my Janome machine, this is called the "Auto Buttonhole" feature. I'm not familiar with the details of your model, so I'd say try your dealer, the manual or the manufacturer's website for specifics. You can create your own buttonholes with a super tight zig zag, but it's really a hassle and I don't think it ever looks quite as good as a machine-done buttonhole.

October 09, 2010

Karen in NC said:

... Can I do the 4-step method if my machine only does the automatic? I have a Euro Pro 7130 and can't seem to get the auto to work. I'd love to try the 4-step method, but don't know how I'd do steps 2 & 4.

October 09, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi Doddy 'Pin - I'm SO happy we could help you. Like they say, "Once you have a hammer, everything is a nail." In your case ... now that you've mastered buttonholes, everything will need a button"

July 12, 2010

Doddy `Pin said:

... I love you, because for month I was looking for an explanation for my singer 1 step bottonhole sewing machine. Nothing in youtube I coudn´t doit wit the manual Thank you a lot and I will try it rigth now!

July 10, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4home said:

... Hi Ivorster, Glad you're enjoying all the tips. Ahhhh -- zippers . They are indeed on the calendar. We have two articles planned for the site before the end of year. Thanks for visiting!

September 02, 2009

lvorster said:

... Wonderful to have all these tips availableHow about something on zzzzippers?

September 02, 2009

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