A blind hem is exactly what it sounds like: a hem with stitches you barely notice. It's perfect for window coverings or anywhere you want a clean finished edge. When I first started sewing, attaining a perfect blind hem was like finding the Holy Grail. And then a funny thing happened, I practiced it a few times, and realized it was really easy. It's sort of like learning to use chopsticks – at first it seems so awkward and difficult and then, suddenly, it's second nature. Try a blind hem and you'll never drop a wad of sticky rice in your lap again.

First, you will need a blind hem foot. This is a special foot that comes standard with most sewing machines. The foot looks basically like this, although it will be slightly different depending on the brand of your sewing machine:

Notice that black part in the middle of the foot (it may not be black on your machine's foot). It's called a "flange." This is your new word for the day; try to work it into a conversation. The flange acts as a guide. It will rest against the folded edge as you sew to maintain a straight seam and make sure the space between the main stitches and the blind stitches is accurate.

Enough Semantics, Now How to Actually Do the Stitch

Make a simple hem

1. Figure out how big a hem you need to get the finished length you want. Most people prefer to err on the side of narrow over wide so there's less bulk to the folded fabric and the hem will lay nice and flat. In fact, it's often better to trim your fabric just a bit rather than make a giant hem.
2. Let's say you have 2" to work with. First, fold in your raw edge ¾". Then, make another fold 1¼". Your first fold rolls inside the second and you end up with a nice folded edge on both the top and bottom.
3. Press hem.

Pin your hem

1. Notice of the position of the pins in the fabric. It is much easier if you place the pins with the tops facing toward your main fabric – away from the hem's edge.
   

At the machine

1. Take the project to your machine. It should be wrong side up, showing that nice folded hem you just made.
   
2. Make sure you have the blind hem foot attached and the machine set to make a blind hem stitch. Refer to your machine's manual to confirm the foot and the stitch number. 
   
3. Fold your nice hem under the wrong side of the main fabric, leaving about a ¼" of the hem's edge sticking out. The tops of your pins will now be pointing towards the machine.
   
4. Slide your fabric under the blind hem foot with the flange resting against the folded edge. When the needle drops it will be sewing mainly into that ¼" of the hem's edge that is sticking out.
   
5. Sew, keeping the flange against the fold. The bulk of the stitches will fall along the hem's edge and every third stitch or so will catch in the main fabric. 
   
6. Open the hem to straighten the seam, gently stretching the hemmed stitches so they lay flat, if necessary. Press. NOTE: I used a contrasting thread for these instructions so you could see my work. You'll choose a thread color that matches your fabric, so the stitches on the front will barely be visible. Blind!
   

You can adjust stitch length if you want less or more stitches catching the main fabric.

Comments (7)

Waggie said:

... Corn in Egypt! I can now do a blind hem. I have been trying to do a blind hem all day (yes, all day) following "Brothers" guide. These instructions as far easier. Phew! Thankyou!

February 05, 2012

luciab said:

... This is the best tutorial I have ever seen on the blind hem stitch. Now I understand how to do it. Thank you.

December 29, 2011

Jess said:

... Wow - that does look a lot easier than I expected. I'll need to see if I have the right foot and give it a try! Thanks!

May 17, 2011

MistyMommy said:

... I am going to try this today on 7 pairs of pants that have been hanging in my closet for over a year waiting for me to wear them and 2 pairs that I've worn TOO LONG. As for Mrs Ippen, I;m gonna guess your husband was bragging about you and THAT is how you got the job. That should be the spoonful of sugar that helps the medicine go down!

December 27, 2010

Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:

... Hi mrsippen and rach9809 ... the blind hem will work to hem already finished pants. It's just a little bit of a brain teaser. Turn the pant leg inside out. Make your hem as described above and pin it in place. Then fold the pinned hem under... the right side of the hem will be against the right side of the pant leg. And, also as shown above, there will be a sliver of the hem's edge sticking out. Line up the flange of the foot against the folded edge of the pant leg, and as above, the needle will catch that little hem edge. Because the pant leg is finished, you will be sewing in the round. So, if you have a free arm, this will make it much easier to slide the pant leg into position and keep it flat as you sew. Also - if you are sewing pants with heavy flat-felled side seams, like jeans, DON'T try to stitch over these VERY bulky double seams. Simply start and stop on either side, essentially stitching two half circles. If need be, you can stitch the hem at the side seams by hand when you're done. Hope that helps. And, mrsippen .... really sorry you are being asked to hem someone's pants for free when you haven't offered. That doesn't seem very nice .

August 24, 2010

rach9809 said:

... I too have been wondering how to blind hem a pant leg. I can use this stitch on a flat piece of fabric but have trouble with pant legs.

August 24, 2010

mrsippen said:

... okay, I've practiced on a single flat piece of material (like in the article) and I can "do" the blind hem...but how do I do the blind hem in a finished garment? like a finished pair of pants? That a friend from mr ippen's place of employment just dumped off on my husband for me to hem? (really it's 4 pairs, and because he thinks paying $10.00 to $15.00 per pair is to expensive --that's the going rate at alteration shops in our area--so I think he wants these done for **free**)

July 03, 2009

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